VacDaddyt

You are going to need the book for that plow, I believe the top link must be used and maybe pull from the upper pins. The book should have instructions on hitching to the tractor. The plow hitch is for top link sensing if i remember the discussion I read before about that style hitch. Good luck.

Actually if you left something in a feed lot our Holsteins would to pull the spark plug wires off and the hogs would chew on the valve stems,many a flat tire.

The last 560 I cut the heads of of two longer bolts and put them in. But I had all the top of the tractor off and was putting it together a piece at a time starting with that one and using alignment bolts to put the rest together. I did not completely tighten the bolts going downward until the stack was tightened up. If you are just replacing a few parts I agree with Pete a overhead crane is almost needed as the setup is real hard to handle and not get something out of place. In my case putting it back in pieces was going to happen as I replaced all of the o-rings between the parts. The steering wheel mount is a real bugger finding a balance point. Good luck.

Nice

Get well!!!!! I have enjoyed your trips and want to see more.

It was mentioned in another post that when set correctly there is a hole that lines up on the upper bar. Ours always worked. Maybe you could set them on a block and make them trip to make sure they are not stuck.

I bet that last pic got his blood going real fast. Liked the pictures.

If at the shaft you turn, It may have a packing nut. Did you try to snug it up a bit.

Change the filter first on side below the brake pedals. It may have a dip stick I don't remember but it could also have a pipe plug under where the clutch pedal is. Nice looking tractor. I liked the one I had but is was a tad too small for some of the stuff I was doing.

If there is a plate where the belt pulley would go , you can move it to the side and see the tube on the brake side going back. I had the problem you are talking about and separated the tractor and replaced it. If you do make sure to put a rubber band on the bearing that gets uncovered when you split it at the rear. Personally after messing around changing mine and finding out that was not the problem I went back to the seal on the hydraulic pump and put a second new seal in there and made sure it seated good. My pump I ended up replacing and I should have bought a new pump for the power steering as that one is weak also. If you need a T/A that would be the time to do it all.

Drat took a day off from work to put the hitch on the 560 and found out some of the parts in that pile I bought were from a much smaller tractor.Doubt it is a 460 but the bolt holes on the center plate I doubt were 3/4 inch. OH well. Still missing a few pins for the draft control and now the center piece. I am not sure if I can bend the drawbar but it is crooked with the welding done, I may try that tomorrow.

Checking in with some progress. Bolt holes on the sides were tough to get cleaned out but I managed. I have put a few of these on but I seem to always get ahead of my self with the stabilizer and have to almost take the side off again. Oh well. Still have a bunch of pins and cotters to install and then level the drawbar and then figure out which hose goes to the top of the check valve assembly. I also have to get the depth stop working as it just slides down the shaft of the cylinder. The drawbar is bent and has been welded so I may look for a different one later ( at least I think my press is not heavy enough to bend it) . Then I can start on the last 560.

So I have been collecting parts and pieces of hitches for a couple of years on and off and finally decided to start putting them together for a 400 and a 560. In all the years I have used and abused them on 230,240 460 400 450, and 560 tractors I have not seen the damage that these have that I have found and it takes more than one to get a good one (not perfect). Usually we broke the lateral limit piece. I think I have parts from four now. So I have started to finally put one on the 400 only because the rear end is out so I can work on it. I have taken the last two apart far enough to handle them without a hernia and have started to clean the holes out on the tractor. It seems my 3/4 tap is dull or worn out as I have not even gotten one hole cleaned out yet. I picked with a screw driver and blew out with air and used penetrating oil. I tried to preclean the lower holes on the clutch side and the amount of grease packed dirt is amazing. Do you guys have a better way? Perhaps some brake cleaner added to the mix. I should replace the bushings/bearing in the upper pivot but have not gotten that far. For now it is a work in progress. I should replace the grease zerks as I go. I am not quite sure how I am going to do the rear hydraulics yet, I know the 400 has a check valve back there already. Both cylinders that I have that are good have the pin and plate depth set up on them so the last hitch is getting retrofitted to an older style.

One of two ways of moisture to get in. If it was a row crop the shift lever and the triangle areas of the shift lever and oil fill were the most common places of entry. I have been away from a utility so don't quite remember the top of the transmission so look for places for it to enter. Damp storage is a problem from condensation-find a drier place to store or get adequate ventilation in the storage area. It was a lot easier to keep them dry inside when you could work the snot out of them for a day or two often. I am lucky mine are staying dry in my garage. If it was easy to do before use to crack the drains and let the condensation out but that is way down there. Covering the top with a canvas if outside but don't seal the bottom might help. Hytran likes to absorb water and needs to be changed when it gets saturated.Just a few thought, I have had a 404 that had water in the transmission when I got it so I understand.

Depends on what you are using it for. I found it to be lighter and less torque than a 460 pulling a 3-14 plow. Easy on fuel , engine based on the "C" block. Some engine parts hard to come by. Had better hydraulics than the 460-560.A little shorter tractor than the 460. Front end uses the same bolt pattern as the 340-240. Had a row crop liked it for small jobs. Didn't have a three point which is light duty. A friend summed it's engine as a bumble bee on steroids. No sleeves in the engine though so rebuilding could be a problem if worn out. Worth less than a 544 or 656 about the same as a 560 gas.2000-3000 if in good condition.Tires is the big thing for price.