VacDaddyt

I have fittings that will go on the original fittings that are 90s and other assorted fittings, but have slowed down working on A/C a lot.

Some one put them on the wrong fitting. Large hose should be blue and smaller red.

Inner seals inside one or both of the cylinder leaking through willdo that also.

People have change those tele depth valves out for the more normal ones. Just saw the linkage , if disconnected that changes a few things here. Now you need to see if the valve is change so the gear set inside is not your problem.

Also pic number five is a double acting check valve. The control valve for the fast hitch if the linkage is still on can give trouble trying to find the correct location. Couplers are not usually found in the lines of the fast hitch ( can be a problem by itself)if the linkage is present because the control valve has a centering portion inside the valve that wears or breaks. Second the aux valve need to be set to "D" or "S" firmly. If any of the valves are not "centered" you will be still on higher pressure. Screen and orifice is under the dash but do not remember how it is built as I have not

All I can say is wow on that hitch. I see parts from at least three generations of fast hitch and then the other parts to make it all work. good job.

A prior post got me thinking about picking up rocks. In the 90s we picked up a lot that were mostly limestone but there was a lot of small black granite ones. We would leave the really small ones as we did not do beans but just below soft ball size and up would pick. One day picking corn with the 315, we mostly did small grains and picked/chopped most of the corn, I picked up a half ear sized one and shoved a rasp and the support back up into the cylinder. I broke two 60 H chains after stretching them out. Spent three or four day straitening every thing back after milking. We also ran a G g

Thanks

bolt pattern looks to be c thru 340

Most of the 10-15 cu ft. refrigerator I have been buying for the hospital are charged with propane

Have you jacked the front off the ground and with the engine off seen if it steers easily? I have had three of those series that the knuckles or u joints have rusted and needed replacing. Next is the oil foaming or not. When you had the flow control apart did you clean the strainer and orifice? I made a hose that came off the pump ports on the plate the pump mounts on that you can use with a gauge and valve. I put the oil back into the transmission. Close the valve for a short period , just enough to check pressures and run the system lock to lock to see if the pressure is good. Once done with

I am more leaning to the cylinder leaking at the plate of the cylinder that moves inside, this bypasses oil leaking outside because it is all internal. If you do not need the lift part pin it stationary at the provided locations on each side and then lower the cylinder so the lift arms are down. It will be easier to get on and the drawbar will be at normal height for use and the one picture above shows where the points of attachment are. Tractor will not try to lift or lower as it is in the down location already and will not interfere with any operation.

Red primer, did one with grey and the paint came out a wine type color. Beautiful but not expected.

Do bear in mind if you can bolt a M engine(likely) to the bell housing the gas tank will not clear the top. M is taller engine.

263,291,301 gas. 236,282, 301 diesel.