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Binderoid

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Posts posted by Binderoid


  1. On 7/16/2019 at 6:01 PM, Victor21 said:

    Hello Thanks for advices Binderoid--Your advice is very useful...(thanks very much..) How exactly do You use the Never SEEZ product for head screws? I was  purchase  a workshop manual for d358 engines. They write to tighten in 3 stages. first stages in LbF-Ft 29, second stages 58, final 101-109Lbf -FT. But nothing about waiting between stages ... Regards V

    I like to paint the bolt with never-seez about 1/2 the length of the bolt, because when the head gasket fails and lets water around a head bolt (6.9/7.3 PC motors), the bolt can rust and get seized in the head. Never heard of a waiting period between torque stages. In the days of asbestos head gaskets I suppose the waiting period manifested itself as re-torquing a warm engine, but with today's manufacture of head gaskets, you hardly ever hear of re-torquing anymore.


  2. When the sequence is unknown, start at the center of the head and work your way outward, in a circular pattern. I run a tap down all the holes to clean them, then  I lube the threads with never-seez,  or teflon pipe sealant if they thread into a water passage. I do two stages, the first at about 50% of maximum torque and the second at  peak torque. Since the bolts are lubricated, I use the lower choice in the suggested torque range. If you're on the second time around, and you can't reach maximum torque after several pulls on your torque wrench, the bolt is stretching.  Don't keep going until it snaps off , take it out and look at it .  If I stretch 2 bolts, I declare the entire set scrap and order new bolts. To salvage the head gasket, do not unscrew them all at once. Replace them 1 at a time, and torque each one  to 50 lb.feet until they are all replaced.


  3. No, the wire has nothing to do with whether or not the post is grounded. If there is continuity to ground with compression release out,  Check: linkage operating butterflies out of adjustment or defective, stuck butterfly shaft, broken butterfly shaft or grounding lever, or defective insulating pieces on grounding stud.


  4. On 6/20/2019 at 2:29 PM, Big Bud guy said:

     

    They didn’t want to look like they were following JD in my opinion when they lost the lead. The hydro also IMO was thrown out there so IH could stand out and not look like they were acknowledging JD.   How does a company that put the first successfull partial powershift on the market not follow up with a full PS?  Didn’t some of their crawlers have a powershift?  

    TD-24 in 1947


  5. 8 hours ago, 856 Custom said:

    Recent hay auction by Larue Ohio was a small lot of small square grass. Was a small group of people who went bananas bidding on them. $65.00 per bale and that's not a mistype. I heard that same story from 2 different guys 40 miles away from each other that are not acquainted with each other.

    Well thanks for posting that cuz I called my friend a liar when he told me that in a grocery store in Lorain county.


  6. Just now, MarkG said:

    Those Ram trucks with the knob shifter will put it in park if you open the door to look back while in reverse. On the good side, it will not put transmission in park if your going 65 on the freeway and try to turn ac off but grab shifter knob by mistake.

     

    If you want to see what's behind you while backing up,  you look into those things on the outside of the doors with the shiny glass in them.

    • Like 1
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  7. Just now, Chris-RustyRed said:

    I am working on getting to know my new to me B414 and must say many things have been a struggle to understand..this topic is one of the items that has me very confused.

    The serial number on mine is #1043 and I really want to get my lights and all electrical items working but am stuck on issue number ONE.

    I have no way of knowing which way I should hook the battery up..I never knew positive ground was a thing until last week...saw it in the manual, did some research, went and hesitantly switched my terminals around on the battery to make it a positive ground. Main work light on tractor all of a sudden came on for the first time when I started the tractor this way...yay...at least I thought...lol

    I shut it off right away since I was worried about it frying something...then started it again..and light no longer worked...weird.
    Left it as is...hooked up as positive ground.

    Today as I was looking for other items, I see in the shop manual that I bought from Ebay  that it shows this tractor should be negative ground...so my online PDF version of the manual shows Positive Ground...but the old looking International Shop manual I bought off Ebay shows it to be negative ground....to a newbie like myself...this is horrible..lol

    How can I tell which manual is correct..and which way I should run my battery now?.

    I do research a ton before posting questions but I could easily miss something simple...I am a total NEWBIE to this world.

    Your light working then not working is your light switch with dirty contacts or a faulty ground somewhere in your harness-- nothing to do with your polarity issue. Just a coincidental occurrence


  8. You need to take your pieces to a dealer and tell him what you have; they are probably the same as something more modern. The trick here is the dealer has to care enough to open a catalog made out of paper, if they haven't already thrown it out. You have to decide if all this extra hassle is worth the couple of bucks you'll save at the dealer vs. a bearing supply house. For the seal I think you are stuck with the dealer or Rice Equipment.  Rice Equipment can get a better price on a bearing than you can, be best just to let Frank get everything.


  9. This distributor also controlled the governor in the carburetor. Since I don't have a governor  any more ,  I'm going top see if a GM unit will fit in there and try to get shed of that Holley and it's idiosyncrasies. Besides, those modules aren't going to be available forever.


  10. We changed the ignition module once in all these years, but other than that no problems.  The distributor (Holley)  will tolerate no moisture. If you blow a top hose and soak the motor, you'll not be going anywhere for a long while. The best way to start it is with ether. Take a full can and spray the entire contents all over the wires, the module, and the distributor. Then unclip the cap and let everything dry for about 20 min. Didn't happen too often, but a sudden temperature change in rainy weather made the engine sweaty and it wouldn't start. I'll check that washer tubing tomorrow.


  11. Just now, Ben Walter said:

    Do you still have any extra blue diamond engines?   I brought my BLD 250 to a machine shop two years ago only for them to close up shop and all disappear, no way of getting my engine back.   Looking to find another 250 idealy but beggers cant be choosers. 

    Aww, Man! What a bad break! 


  12. We bought a 446 new in '78 and majored it about 20 years ago. It always ran very well except it blew oil all over the place. It was like the PCV couldn't keep up with the blow-by but like I said , it was running good. My Dad wanted it overhauled only because he was tired of the motor always being so filthy.  Didn't leak a drop for many years after that;  today the engine looks about as greasy as yours does,  which ain't much. I like it. It gets about 4 MPG in a tandem, but it had enough power to do the job.  The only thing I really hated about it was that miserable Holley List 1950 governor carburetor. Today I'm the only one who drives it, so I put on a non-governor 1850, which I think may be a 4160. A difference of night and day: cleaner idle, slightly better mileage, and it pulls better from low revs when going around a corner and I'm too lazy to downshift. Don't really know what caused the motor problem; it started huffing blow-by soon after the warantee expired, we just kept running it. We had a terrible sludge problem with Pennzoil in the '70s, but after the overhaul we started getting oil from Union 76 and didn't lose any more motors.


  13. Your view on being prepared to major the engine is refreshing.  Most people want to pour some magic potion in the cylinders and bang and twist and yank ; In six months they give up and take it apart which is what they should have done in the first place. This has the potential to be an expensive engine, depending on what is wrong with it, and you don't want to be damaging usable parts by pounding on it. If it turns out that you have one or more unusable cylinders, I  still have the sleeve/piston groups from when I did my TD-6, you're welcome to as many as you need, long as you're not afraid of buying a new set of rings. Regarding the undercarriage, ValuePart  has everything listed except the front idlers.

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  14. On 4/4/2019 at 1:19 AM, Sean said:

    I'm thinking about buying a KB5 as I really like the style. However the gearing is too low for the highway. My question is, is a two speed rear end readability available and not too big a deal to do? I am a toolmaker.

    Two speed rears are most generally underdrive lows. Which means, simply adding a two speed may not accomplish your goal, unless you find one with a lower ratio in high range.


  15. The pressure in that tandem pump is going to be the same at both outlets, it is common for a single inlet to feed both gearsets.  If the gear bodies are both the same width, the hose connection doesn't matter.  But if one is noticeably wider, indicating higher GPM, that is the one I would hook to the compressor because the knuckle boom  does not need much flow to operate . Plus, the smaller pump gives more of a mechanical advantage during maximum force lifts.


  16. Do you want to grind something with it, or just to restore? One cool accessory for it would be a bagging elevator,  a little wooden arrangement that stands about 5' high, and driven with a flat belt from the mill shaft.

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