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farmalldr

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About farmalldr

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  • Birthday 06/03/1944

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    Ridgefield, Washington State

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  1. Good for you. A happy tractor. Thanks for the report. 👍 Dennis
  2. Hello 1955/200, Looks like a good project and you are deep into it. As far as touch control gasket/seal kit here are three options; CaseIH dealer, Steiner Tractor Parts or Yesterday Tractor Parts. Around $100. Looks like they also have pump seals. Biggest issue with the pumps is leaking into the engine oil. Have fun with your project and keep us up dated on progress. I would also recommend the manual for the touch control. Binderbooks is a good source. Dennis
  3. Pretty much tells the story on Logo's. I have a 'R' series truck and 'man on the tractor' is big and proud on the grill. Triple diamond on the horn button. Thanks, Dennis
  4. My opinion is 'man on the tractor' showed up about 1946 on the letter series. When I restored some letter series I did a lot of research to try make them right. 1942 H, no man on tractor. 1947 A, man on tractor with McCormick Deering. Late 1949 or early 1950 the Deering name was dropped. I would like to know if this is not close to right. Dennis Also, I have an original operators manual for an A printed 1/15/46. Has the old logo, IH circled by the C. No 'man on the tractor' block logo. Pictures of the tractor in the manual do not show the block either.
  5. Thanks for the update. Always nice to hear the outcome of a project. Happy tractoring. Dennis
  6. Here are a couple threads related to your problem. For your reading pleasure. Good luck with your issues. The hi /lo selector has nothing to do with the pressure. It is only a sliding gear. Could be the pump but I would eliminate everything else first. Did the pressure disappear all at once or over a period of time. Pumps don't usually quit all at once unless they quit turning. Dennis IH TD-20 Dozer (Torque Converter Looses Prime TD-20 dozer STILL won't move - here is what I found out guess the links didn't work. The second one, most informative, is back on page 3
  7. If you have a good engine, a repairable head, plus a place to repair it, I think you are good to go. Probably the most economical also. Dennis
  8. gras, I assume you are talking about the 4 cyl, D248 gas start engine. The Farmall M and WD6 engines do not have the right oil pickup system needed for a crawler machine. The crawler oil pump has an extra set of gears for hilly operations. The head from one of the wheel tractor engines would probably work if it is the right vintage. There were some changes over the years. Also, flywheel, mounting, and starter location would not accommodate as a drop in change. If you have a good engine other than the head, I would look for a head. Good luck Dennis
  9. So, what became of the torque drive strap issue? Never heard a result unless I missed it. Dennis
  10. Good for you. Persistence paid off.
  11. Tractor appears to be a TD15B. TD12 does not have planetary finals for one difference. Decal says TD15C but it is not. Wrong engine, hard nose and dash to be a C series. I'm surprised the auction folks aren't more accurate with their info. Dennis
  12. Looks good. Amazing what a little cleanup and paint can do. Makes a person feel better using it too. Dennis
  13. junkandcattle, like your handle. Looks like you may have found it, but according to the book I have, 7335 matches up with 1981 TD7E. The highest number for TD7C is 2083 and being the last year for the 7C, 1973. If the ROPS is 1973, I would be surprised it would be on a 1981 tractor. So, I don't know exactly what you have but glad you found a number. I can't remember the differences between TD7C and E to help identify what you really have. Someone else here can probably help with that. Have fun with it. Dennis
  14. You are right pede, the rear end/steering system on all the later IH crawlers, B series and newer, were very trouble free. Actually I think The complete line of IH crawlers were very good machines. Dennis
  15. Farmall SA, that number is the block part number. The s/n is STAMPED on a flat surface below the #1 spark plug. It is a little hard to see because it is behind the throttle rod to the governor. Probably need to scrape a little dirt/grease and paint to see it clearly. I think some replacement blocks may not have been stamped. Dennis
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