Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

22 Excellent

About farmalldr

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/03/1944

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Ridgefield, Washington State

Recent Profile Visitors

3,379 profile views
  1. Hope it all works out for you and your son. Dennis
  2. Yes it is. looking good Dennis
  3. My experience is fan shrouds are very important. Rule of thumb, 2/3 of fan inside the shroud. Hood or grill should not make a difference. Issues could also be the radiator. Not sure if a fan can be installed backward on a 240, but something to consider. They will not move air if on backward You and your son have done a lot of work on that tractor and it is looking good. Keep up the good work. Dennis
  4. ksanders, try this skf site. http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/ good luck Dennis
  5. Thanks for the pics Mike. You are a busy guy and I like the way you wash your dozer. Have a good one. Dennis
  6. Open station Cadet 526 getting some exercise and the operator too.
  7. There has been 2-3 on the construction forum recently and one right now for engine parts. Dennis
  8. The oil you are using is probably ok and not causing your problem. My opinion anyway. The trans circuit and hyd. system originally called for 10w motor oil. Like pede said in a previous post, there is a long dipstick and it holds a bunch. Dennis
  9. The canister I am referrng to is just below the levers. It is a washable screen but you will want to replace the o ring that seals the housing to the base if you open it up. The suction strainer is above the oil level so you will lose very little oil. I think that may be the pressure filter next to your funnel. It is a paper filter, maybe available at Napa, but would not be the cause of your current problem of losing prime. So far I don't think you have a serious problem, just need to figure out why it is losing its prime. Suction leaks can cause that. Dennis
  10. tthams, Based on your pictures the machine should be a TD20B, DT429 6 cylinder engine and powershift. I do not know a lot about a lot of dozers but I made my living working on IH construction stuff back then and it has been a long time ago so some memory is taking it's toll. For the life of me I cannot remember where the dipstick was on those. I was thinking beside the seat and it was very long but could be thinking of a different model. Not sure where you are adding the oil in your picture. The transmission pump is mounted in the torque converter which is under the floor plate ahead of the one you have off. The small filter canister, closest to the center of the machine visible in your picture under the floor plate is the suction filter. The piping connections to and from that filter could be problematic causing suction leaks and a cause of losing prime. Do your gauges read in the green when you do get it to function? Clutch pressure gauge should be in green at idle, hi speed in or out of gears. Transmission oil level should be checked at idle speed in neutral, where ever the dipstick is. Wish I still had the books for a lot of those units but who would have thought then that we would still be trying to fix these things on the internet. good luck with it Dennis
  11. Hi tthams, If your TD20 does have a torque converter, I am sorry to say that the manual you are getting will not be a match for the tractor. The 201 series machines did not have torque converters. The TD20B series would have 6 cylinder engine and powershift with converter. Pictures will help. If I remember right the TD20B, model and serial number tag is on the left side of the seat frame below the arm rest. Dennis
  12. tthams, Could you post a couple pictures of the tractor and a picture of where you are adding the oil? A pic of the seat and dash area would be good too. This will help us determine what you are actually working on. Does it have a 6 cyl engine or a V8? This info may help us help you. E Bay or binderbooks.com are good sources for manuals but you first have to determine what model TD20 you have. The operators manual will tell you how to operate and check fluids etc. A parts book is always good and the Service manual will give overhaul procedures. The engine service manual is usually separate from the chassis one. Sorry for your loss of your dad Dennis
  13. TwinDad, You can angle the blade on a bull grader and not on a bull dozer. It appears you have a bull grader. Good luck with your project Welcome aboard Dennis
  14. JBull, I think you have it figured out. Trans oil to engine was not a common problem but if converter is flooding the bell housing it could happen. No other connection that I can remember. I would definitely reseal the converter while it is out for the seal replacement. Make sure the elbow at the bell housing for the drain back is not clogged with debris which has happened. There is a special tool needed to install the speedi sleeve on the crankshaft. Good luck and welcome aboard Dennis
  15. Doesn't sound like you have found the reason for the knock yet. Could be a bearing. My opinion would be to check out the lower end before spending any money on it. Another thing to consider is the condition of the rest of the machine before investing in the engine. How are the steering clutches? They could be stuck after being parked for a considerable amount of time. Condition of the undercarriage? Undercarriage parts are very expensive and nearly impossible to find. Agree that antifreeze in the oil, if not run, probably would not be damaging to the bearings. It would separate and be at the bottom of the pan. If the engine ran with antifreeze in the oil, I would be skeptical of the bearing condition including cam bearings. Good luck with your project and keep us posted. Dennis
  • Create New...