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About farmalldr

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  • Birthday 06/03/1944

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    Ridgefield, Washington State

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  1. Troy, congratulations. Did you actually have it moving? The plug should just be tightened in so it doesn't leak. It is not an adjustment. As far as the washer, shouldn't be there. Someone must have added it trying to raise pressures. The other two spools in that block do use shims (thin discs) to adjust pressures but none for lube. This is great news. I am sure your dad would be very happy. I would like to know how your next startup goes. Then we will know for sure the problem is gone. Now we need a report of it actually doing what it is suppose to do. Has to be a great feeling. No rewards necessary. My reward is being able to help someone like yourself and having a successful outcome. I wish I would have saved the books I once had but who would have thought we would be repairing these on the internet 50 years later. Oh well. Dennis
  2. Hi Troy, Usually the plugs were very tight and didn't really have a reason to remove them. Because it was easy for you, I don't think it has anything to do with your problem. The spring pushes the plunger (spool) against the plug and as lube pressure builds the spool compresses the spring for a 20-25 psi lube pressure. Excess goes back to suction side through hose #11 in the schematic. The spool should have been against the plug and not further in than the depth of the plug. If it is stuck or not out at least to the plug depth then that could be your problem. Spool stuck in the bore or a broken spring. In all the years I worked on them I never saw a broken spring. If the spool sticks in the open position it allows the pump to draw air instead of oil from the sump at start up. Before you remove the valve from the transmission make sure you can get the gasket. It would not be an easy one to make. Trivia, My very first field repair by myself as a dealer mechanic was a trans/conv change on a TD20B at a logging site in the cascade range of Oregon, 1967 I think. No prize needed, but thanks. Hope you get it fixed. Dennis
  3. Hello tthams, guess you are still at it. I was wondering what had happened. I just reviewed your previous post where we had talked about the system. First let's talk about the plumbing pic you posted. Line #84 is the main suction from the bottom of the main case to the suction strainer. Connector clamps #12 and #27 are problematic for causing suction problems particularly the ones close to the suction strainer because them and the strainer are above the oil level. It is made up of two clamps and a rubber donut under each. Later machines used a hose instead of pipe and connectors, maybe that is what yours has. Second is the fittings screwed into the strainer base being loose. This will also cause loss of prime. Line #30 is the inlet to the pump so that is why you never saw any oil pumping there. #36 is pump output to the pressure filter. Without suction there will not be oil there or beyond. As far as the drive line spinning without clutch press. would only be from what oil is left in the converter and not producing any power. The regulator valve block on top of the transmission controls the pressures of the clutches, converter and lube. Pressure line #83 from the filter feeds the block. The plug you have out is the lube spool, the center one is for converter, the one at opposite end is for main pressure. Main gets oil first, then conv., then lube. If the lube spool is stuck open, not against the plug and against spring pressure, in the bore it could cause losing prime or suction issues although not common. I am surprised you were able to get that plug out. I always worked from the end with the square lid. Behind the plug should be a spool about 1'' long and behind that, a spring. You should be able to go in with a small magnet and pull the spool out. The spring pushes the spool against the plug you have out. Or, see if you can push the spool in with a screwdriver against the spring. If it is stuck, it is a problem. Working in this area for a suction issue is usually last resort. Be careful with all that dirt you are working around. I hope I have not forgotten something pertinent. If I think of something more, I'll be back. Good luck and ask questions. I'll try to help if I can. Dennis
  4. Welcome to the site. A 1944 should be a keeper for sure. And fenders too. As far as parts; Steiner, Pilot Knob or Yesterday tractor come to mind. There are others also. I have had good luck with the three I mentioned. Nice building also. Have fun Dennis
  5. Thanks for putting the link up Troy. Nothing I need though. Nice offer for storing. Dennis
  6. I think you just felt sorry for it Brian. I think you can fix it. Dennis
  7. It has been a long time but I don't think you can attach the straps to the converter without the engine removed. Yes, the straps are in groups as you found and Louie's parts list shows. Do you have the service manual? If not, you will probably want to get one. I would suggest replacing the seal at the back of the converter while apart also. The straps need to be installed so that the engine is pulling the converter around with the straps, not pushing it, if that makes sense. We always installed the converter with straps attached then installed the engine and bolted the straps to the flywheel. Not sure how you will check alignment as there was a special tool with dial indicator for that. Just do the best you can I guess. I don't think heat or oil had anything to do with the failure. Age, fatigue or misalignment probably the cause. Good luck to you on your project. Dennis
  8. The TD15B/C, TD20B/C, 175's & 250's all share the same transmission and converter systems, just different parts. There are many threads here that relate to transmission issues such as yours in any one of the models mentioned. More testing and evaluating is needed before you even think about repairing clutch packs. As Pede said, the converter and transmission need to be removed and transmission disassembled to look at clutches. A library of books will be needed. E bay or Binderbooks are a good source. What system pressure are you reading that is 90-110 psi? That is about what converter psi should be at a high rpm. Where is that gauge plugged in? What is the drive line between the converter and transmission doing when in gear, revved up and brakes applied? The drive line, when in gear and tracks stalled should not spin. Try it in all the gears. With the two speed lever on the right in low range you may not be able to hold the tracks if things are up to par so leave it in hi. What is clutch pressure at idle, in gear or at high rpm in gear? These are some of the things you need to know before talk about clutch pack removal. Happy reading and good luck Dennis
  9. Agree with 1566 Jim. Sure sounds like the drive straps gave up. Engine alignment to converter is critical. I think your book spells it all out. Dennis
  10. MC, Normal for the hydraulic tank to build some pressure during run time. And due to gravity and psi would pass oil past a bad pump seal. Normally a pump shaft seal does not see pressure while running. Pede has good idea to relieve pressure at shut down until the problem is dealt with. Tank pressure is controlled by the tank vent assembly. Can't remember normal, maybe 5-10 psi. Dennis
  11. You may want to check out the oil pickup system between the two engines also. I know on the gas engines they are different. Crawler is designed more for steeper terrain than wheel tractors such as the M. Dennis
  12. Welcome farmerboy, Nice looking 'C' Two possibilities on newer s/n's and one on the early machines. Main hydraulic pump shaft seal could be the culprit on all TD25C's. Pump is mounted above the torque converter and drives off of a gear train in the bell housing that is engine oil lubed. Other possible on later machines is the steering pump which is a piston pump driven by the front gear train on front right side of the engine. This pump is fed by the hydraulic system also. I do not know the s/n breaks and an older unit may have been changed over to this. Earlier units had a small gear pump driven off the front gear train and at the front right side of the engine. This can be identified by two filters mounted with it. A small oil tank under the hood, rt side just ahead of the firewall fed this pump, so would not be the cause of hyd oil getting to the engine oil. This older style could possibly have been modified over the years to be supplied by the hydraulic system, however. The early ones with the small tank were a bit problematic because a small leak would eventually drain the tank and you would lose steering so some may have been changed. Good luck with your new to you machine. TD25C's were great machines in their day. Dennis
  13. Nice that you passed on the information for others. Dennis
  14. Louie, I was hoping you would chime in and keep me out of trouble on this. You are the man on TD9Bs. Looks like fp Smith may have the valve # you posted. Dennis
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