Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Kurly

  1. I removed the pump, not too bad as I soaked the spline with PB Blaster. I then could see the 4 bolts from the coupler, but the coupler bolts would have been very difficult for me to remove and reinstall. Once the pump was off the belt change was a breeze. Wire wheeled the splines and applied antiseeze for the next time. I used a little shorter belt than OEM, 17510 instead of the OEM 17515. I had to pull both bolts out of the alternator to get the belt onto the pully, but lots of room for adjustment now. Thanks, Kurly
  2. Yes, I have a linked belt on my F-12 (no generator)so I didn't have to remove the starter shaft and radiator. Been so long I don't remember were I got it. We don't even have a Case Construction Dealer near us. I use the ag dealer in Burlington, or internet. Thanks for the ideas. Kurly
  3. Hello, My search has been unsuccessful, so would anyone have experience changing the fan/alt belt on my Case 580C. I have the radiator guard off and the 2 bolts off of the Hyd pump. I'm thinking that the pump needs to be moved forward on the drive splines to give enough room to slide the belt through. This would require the rigid hoses to be removed from the pump. What is the correct procedure to slide the pump forward with out damage? Some comments on another site talked about removing the engine mounts?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Curly
  4. I have used a product called "metal prep" it is a phosphoric acid product and it is meant to etch the metal and keep it from rusting until painted. I have had motorcycle fenders treated and left without paint that didn't rust for years. Another comment I believe that the brake anchor pin has a lot to do with the correct steering of the 500's. I don't remember my 500C having a bottom anchor pin I believe the anchor pin is on the top on 500C.(newer design?) and it steers beautiful and equal in forward and reverse. I truly had to reread the adjusting procedure many times with the service manual and machine together making sure all of the terminology and parts were identified correctly. I had something adjusted incorrectly at first, but then after readjusting it to the books specifications the machine works great. Good luck, Kurt
  5. http://www.sadygerts.com/home/ Steve has parts and is very knowledgeable on 500's. He is willing to talk you through any problems and installation issues.
  6. joneebegood, just unscrew the 6 nuts from the bolts and the clutch will come apart. You have oil on them so hit the threads with a wire wheel and you're good to go. If they do break it's only a bolt so you shouldn't do any further damage or have any trouble. The pinion shafts get a liberal coating of anti seize when reinstalling for the next mechanic's sake.
  • Create New...