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Everything posted by Kurly

  1. 500 steering clutches

    After you have new/ usable fiber and steel clutch plates .... the "Saga" begins, The adjustment of the total clutch pack height and pressure plate finger height adjustment.
  2. 500 steering clutches

    Coyote, Is this the first time for you into the clutches/brakes? Kurly
  3. 500 steering clutches

    I believe the 500's have the brake anchor on the bottom, and the 500C anchor is on the top. This must have been changed for a reason. Hopefully it was changed to provide a better steering/braking action than to save a buck. My brake pedal also works as it should with a rachet style parking brake. Curly
  4. 500 steering clutches

    I believe your theory is correct. My 500C anchors were in good shape and mine steers fine in forward and reverse. I think the anchor design was changed in later models. Good luck, I hope it works out well and you'll never need to be in there again. Curly
  5. On my 500C the hydraulic reservoir and fill is in the right rear compartment. The manuals are a great reference, well worth the money. Curly

    I have used a product called "metal prep" it is a phosphoric acid product and it is meant to etch the metal and keep it from rusting until painted. I have had motorcycle fenders treated and left without paint that didn't rust for years. Another comment I believe that the brake anchor pin has a lot to do with the correct steering of the 500's. I don't remember my 500C having a bottom anchor pin I believe the anchor pin is on the top on 500C.(newer design?) and it steers beautiful and equal in forward and reverse. I truly had to reread the adjusting procedure many times with the service manual and machine together making sure all of the terminology and parts were identified correctly. I had something adjusted incorrectly at first, but then after readjusting it to the books specifications the machine works great. Good luck, Kurt

    http://www.sadygerts.com/home/ Steve has parts and is very knowledgeable on 500's. He is willing to talk you through any problems and installation issues.
  8. James Ketelsen passed away

  9. James Ketelsen passed away

    The article in Racine Journal Times http://journaltimes.com/eedition/page-a/page_3a8f7dde-519c-5d4d-9ce9-35908294a7ea.html

    joneebegood, just unscrew the 6 nuts from the bolts and the clutch will come apart. You have oil on them so hit the threads with a wire wheel and you're good to go. If they do break it's only a bolt so you shouldn't do any further damage or have any trouble. The pinion shafts get a liberal coating of anti seize when reinstalling for the next mechanic's sake.
  11. IH 500 lost all hydraulics

    Coyote Crossing, Joe never worked on your dozer. He said they had a maintenance dept. take care of the equipment. He stated it should have a lot of life left in it as they very seldom used it. He remembers the blocks on the tracks and that it was kept indoors. How's the coupler rebuild going? Kurt
  12. IH 500 lost all hydraulics

    I'll ask him
  13. IH 500 lost all hydraulics

    I'm interested in the solution as this seems to be a very common problem with 500s and I have a 500C. Would there be room for a Love Joy coupler to replace what seems to be a obsolete original equipment part. I thought I remember someone trying a Love Joy set-up in the past. In machine shop applications I have broached Love Joy's ID to match the splined shafts of hydraulic pumps. Repairing the adapter almost seems like a expensive total fabrication project. Good luck on the repair. PS When my retired tool and die maker buddy saw my 500C he told me about the one they had at work-Delco, your machine. Kurt
  14. Hydraulic valve linkage

    Buy a retired tool and die maker friend with nothing to do a cup of coffee. Then ask him how you should fix this old junk. Hopefully he'll just take it home instead of trying to explain to you the many steps to repair it, and then just return it finished. My buddy turned a new tapered shaft, threaded the end, tig welded a new block on the end that has a couple of shafts that run through it. silver soldered the other new shaft he turned after he press fit it in. Reamed the ID hole of the bracket welded on the machine. And on and on and on. I could not believe my eyes when he brought it back a couple days later. All I can say is I'm a lucky guy. This skilled craftsmen worked at Case in Racine back in the day before CNC machines. The lever is for my 500 C lift and tilt and what a difference it makes. I really did want to rebuild it myself but it was way way over my skill level. Kurt
  15. Looking for advice on a 500C

    Congratulations Stods, I'm sure you will have many frustrating days followed by a feeling of great satisfaction as you work thru your machine. This forum has lots of members with lifelong experience of servicing equipment that will enthusiastically share their knowledge with you. Ask questions with pictures and you will get loads of encouragement and help. Start with getting the manuals if you haven't yet. Good Luck, Curly
  16. Hello, after much searching I think I found the extra bushing I ordered from Steve. It's a solid bronze/brass bushing with OD .875, ID .750, and 1.25 length. I measured it with a caliper not a micrometer. I can't mic the shaft as it's all together. Kurly
  17. I got mine from Steve http://www.sadygerts.com/home/
  18. Since you had it in once without the thrust bearings I would suspect that the thrust bearings are the problem. Try it again with out the bearings and washer. Then make sure the bearings and washer are seated correctly for the final assembly. Don't hammer, it will slide in if everything is correct. Keep smiling, Curly
  19. I seem to remember that once the thrust bearing and/or washer slid down toward the spline end of the shaft and this prevented the pinion shaft from going all the way in. I think I had to put a dab of grease on the thrust bearing and washer to hold them in position the pinion shaft while installing. My memory isn't that good anymore, but see if this helps. Curly
  20. 500c Clutch hight

    Just for your information. I used my 500C for a few little jobs after the clutch and brake overhaul, then readjusted the external linkage of the brake and clutch. It now works perfect in forward and reverse. This forum and the factory manuals are priceless. Thanks again, Kurly
  21. 500C final drive

    Gaspesian, post it in the IH Construction area for faster replies. Curly
  22. The manual states Multipurpose gear lube SAE 90 for the finals. My auto parts store said they don't handle straight 90w anymore. They have G-5 or G-4 and said it could take out brass bearings. Any experts on what to use? Curly
  23. 500 C Final Drive Oil

    Thanks Kevin, my local Mobil distributor just called back and suggested Mobil HD 50W. It only comes in 5 gal. pails for $81.05. I'll run out to Tractor Supply. Thanks again, this forum is Great! Kurt
  24. IH 500E water in engine oil

    Super 44 , It looks like the 500 C , you could easily make the flat covers. Run a tap through the threaded holes to start. A piece of thin cardboard and a ball peen hammer would help trace the shape and mark the holes. Good luck, Curly
  25. 125e Seat and Back rest

    You could cut plywood to the correct shape, put tee nuts on the backrest and armrests for attachment. Then cut marine or boat poly foam with a electric knife 1" wider and 1" longer than the plywood. Have your local upholstery shop cover with snowmobile vinyl(-20 degree cold crack), or sew it yourself. Warm it up with a hair dryer and staple it on! Sounds easy but I had a Upholstery shop in my prior life and still have the tools. Curly