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Everything posted by GT&T

  1. Kal The same go's for you, Thank you for looking up the part number and how to "properly install the sump check valve." Many times these things should be highlighted in the service manual. Fred
  2. Pete Thank you for being here for us. I don't have a dog in this fight, but I am so glad for wonderful gifted mechanics like yourself, that take the time to help others make sense out of what seems like an impossible problem. Fred
  3. Ed There are individual wire terminals that can be used to replace ones in your terminal block. These are available at many parts stores. The old corroded terminals will need to be removed by inserting a pick into the plastic terminal block and then removing the old terminal from the wire. You must use a "Good" terminal crimper to install the new terminal. If you need a new plastic terminal block I would suggest contacting some of the wiring harness manufacturing companies that are advertising in Red Power Magazine. These people are very knowledgeable about what terminal blocks and terminals you will need. Hope this helps. GT&T
  4. Remember fathers and mothers, "The hand that rocks the cradle rules the world." Train up a child in the way that they should go and when they are old they will not depart from it. Proverbs: 22 v 6
  5. Dairy94 Welcome to the forum. What are the pictures of? I presume they are of the inside of the piston bore from the spark plug hole. It appears that you have some scoring that has happened, but without knowing what the bores looked like before the pistons and rings were changed, you have know way of knowing if this was previous damage. After removing the cylinder head and pistons you should have a much better idea what has happened. Look for pistons that have galled and possibly stuck rings. If not then this scoring may have been previous damage. Hope for the best. GT&T
  6. VT Is this a litter box? This is so cute! Fred
  7. Idaho Dirt Farmer As long as there are people like you, keeping these things fixed up and reconditioned there will be evidence of how things were done in the "good old days". I have ground tons and tons of ear corn in a John Deere hammer mill for dairy cows. I also have dads Gehl hammer mill that has a stalk and hay chopper that really works well for grinding roughage for beef cattle. I also have a David Bradley ( sold by Sears & Roebuck) hammer mill that is in pristine condition. I also have a Case hammer mill that was built by Helix. GT&T
  8. Idaho Dirt Farmer I forgot in my last post, but welcome to the forum. I just went to the shop and looked up the bulletin I have, I'm sorry that the one I have is for corn shellers and not hammer mills. If I find something that can help I'll get back to you. GT&T
  9. Idaho Dirt Farmer Thanks for posting this picture. Now you have got me fired up to look in my sales bulletin, and see if this is listed in there. I will have to get back to you. GT&T
  10. GT&T

    1066 width

    Connor Welcome to the forum, there is a wealth of information on this forum. I'm with Pete, just judging from that front axle spacing and it looks like the rear wheels are set at. GT&T
  11. Dan It is impressive just what a bunch of Red Power members can put together with all of their combined bits of knowledge. If you notice 55cubs P/N is the same as what you were able to get off the old seal. GT&T
  12. Idaho Dirt Farmer I have an old original International Hammer mill sales bulletin that lists all the models that they had at the time. I will look it later and see if I can help you to identify what you have. I think that what you have is a forage chopper for chopping and blowing silage into storage. I think this thing is older than you may think, and I think it is a very collectable and usable piece. Cleaned up and a new flat belt pulley and you have a nice piece for showing off at Old Threshers or using your self. A look inside the opening of blower housing will help to see what you have. GT&T
  13. GT&T

    Welding question

    Bitty Yes. The key is to grind it down to good clean metal and use nickel welding rods. Then as soon as you are done, while it is still hot, peen the weld with the point of a chipping hammer while it cools down. This helps to relieve stress in the metal, and may prevent cracks. GT&T
  14. Wes Thanks for posting that, I didn't know that you could twist off a PTO shaft on an 806 just by turning it on too fast. I'll be more careful next time I turn one on. GT&T Hagan I'm glad you explained what happened here, If you hadn't I'd still be trying to figure what happened.😃
  15. GT&T

    Close call

    Finney Be careful, you came close to killing your Guardian Angel. GT&T
  16. GT&T

    Cool truck

    Lazy WP Thanks for posting those pictures, I have always thought the old "Stub Nose" Chevy, Ford, GMC, and IH trucks were always so good looking. With a 6-71 Detroit or Cummins NH-220 or NH-250 half of the engine was in the cab between the seats. It goes without saying, it was a mechanics nightmare, to work on. This isn't my first rodeo, I have ridden this horse before. GT&T -
  17. Dan Welcome to the forum. Those spindle extensions are used on tractors with International mounted corn pickers to mount the center snoot to the wheels. This was a novel idea to allow the driver to aim the center snoot in the two rows of corn and not knock down any corn and allow an easier entry in the next two rows. I do not have a P/N for the seals however I would look in the 2 M/H corn picker parts book. The seals would possibly be with the center snoot mounting or possibly under mounting accessories. Diesel Doctor is right. GT&T
  18. Seth I would check to be sure that the foot pedals and connecting links to the master cylinders are not corroded and dragging. The pedal pivot shaft and pins are known to corrode and will still operate when you put your foot on the pedals, however the drag from corrosion will allow the master cylinder to leak a tiny bit of pressure to the brake pistons. Over a period of time this pressure will build and apply the brakes. Hope this helps, as it seems you have done everything else. GT&T
  19. IHRedRyan I would say you are right to assemble the carburetor to the governor shaft. Be sure to get the key on the governor shaft to line up into the notch of the throttle shaft. If you don't get the key lined up in the notch then the governor will not be able to control the carburetor and the engine can run away. GT&T
  20. IH Red Ryan Did you have the throttle plate out of the carburetor ? Could you have turned the throttle shaft a half turn off when installing the throttle plate? Did you replace the throttle shaft with a new one that was in the kit? If so the drive lug that is pinned to the new shaft may have been installed 180* out of time. I think that if there is a lot of wear in the governor linkage that the linkage can be flipped over center in the governor. If you can't find any mistakes in the carburetor, then I would remove the governor cover plate and look at, and operate the throttle linkage. I have several carburetor kits and carburetors that I can look at and compare pictures of your shaft and throttle plate. GT&T
  21. Missouri Mule Just a suggestion, have you tried calling several salvage yards and asking them what radiators will cross? You may also ask them if they have any good used ones and also the cost. I have found that the salvage yards know "What crosses to What". While I have been writing this IHC 5488 has answered your question. GT&T
  22. Cwinn Can you explain the description: "5 and a 4 9 on the floor 3 stage Jake.. " ? I presume the 3 stage Jake, is the Jacobs engine brake, but what is a 5 and a 4 9 on the floor? GT&T
  23. Train up a child in the way that they should go and when they get older they will not turn from it. Proverbs 22 v. 6
  24. GT&T

    IH 93 combine

    Bitty The 203 as you know has twin grain tanks, one on each side, and much improved straw walkers as compared to the shaker used on the 93. GT&T
  25. GT&T

    IH 93 combine

    Bitty The 93 combine is a newer model of the 91 and is very similar. The 91 was available with planetary steering only, it did not have a steering wheel, and was steered with levers, and would pivot in its own length. The 93 was available with either type steering but was much the same as a 91. I don't think there is much in common with the 203. GT&T
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