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Everything posted by GT&T

  1. GT&T

    Tractor talk

    John Congratulations on a well done story. And thank you, Draglinski, for sharing this nice story. . Fred
  2. Pete I couldn't have said it any better. You should make a supplement to be used with all the IH service manuals. You have a world of great information that we are all privileged to be able to learn from. Thank you sir. Fred
  3. Diesel Doctor Will you be coming anywhere near St. Louis Mo. on Interstate 70? Or Hannibal Mo. on Interstate 72 ? Where might you be stopping for the night? I know it is very early, but I may be interested, sounds exciting, and no driving. GT&T
  4. Cotton A bit of information about you power steering not working and MCV gasket blowing out. If you are using HyTran oil or a good aftermarket brand, these oils are designed to adsorb moisture to prevent the water from settling out in your transmission case. This said, when the outside temperatures drop below freezing the emulsiflied oil will have frozen water in it. This will "thicken" the oil or raise the viscosity, enough water in it and the oil will be frozen and the pumps will not turn and neither will the gears. I do not know if this was the case with your tractor and oil and temperature but I would sure think so. Hope this helps. GT&T
  5. Seth I got the manuals today. Thank you so very much for thinking about us and sending them out. They have gone to a good home, and will be well used. We are fortunate to have good people like you on this form. Fred
  6. VT I tried to send you a PM and could not. I would love to have the 2400 & 2500 Service Manual and also the Parts Manual. If you would PM me with an address to send the money to I will send you cash for the US Post Office Priority Mailer. They advertise " If it fits it ships". This is very kind of you to do and especially at Christmas. Merry Christmas & God Bless you and yours. Thank you, Fred
  7. GT&T

    tricycle front axle

    Kiwi A few things to try: 1. Check the tire pressure in the front tires and make sure that they are the same. I have already checked your front tires and they are the same size, so that is good. 2. Check the steering shaft and U - joint for loose motion. 3. Pull off the hood and front grille. Remove the top cover from the worm gear housing and check the sector gear and the worm gear for looseness. The sector gears are bad for getting loose on the pedestal shaft. Make sure that the top bolt and thick washer are not bottoming out on the pedestal shaft. The bolt should pull the sector gear tight on the splines. The worm gear shaft should be held tight ( front to rear ) by a good ball bearing. There was a good article in a copy of the Red Power Magazine about how to repair a loose worm gear to sector gear fit. I feel like it was in an issue this year. GT&T
  8. Thanks for the information. It sounds like they may have set on the lot a while, for someone to remember them. When was the cab added to the one? GT&T
  9. That is a nice set of pictures and information that you have put together. I see that the two that you have were sold from the same dealership and within 3 months of each other. Do you have any records from Arnold's of Kimball that would indicate that they may have sold 15699? GT&T
  10. Nelson What Steelfronts is talking about is called, the housing pressure cold advance. If the check valve in this fitting is plugged with what looks like coffee grounds then the sealastic ring that drives the weight retainer is failing or has failed completely. You can clean the valve out with a seal pick and compressed air. If the engine starts and runs, then that is your problem. Next I would plan on removing the injection pump and having it rebuilt. The weight retainer is running on metal to metal contact and it will self destruct. GT&T
  11. Turbo Twist Delta Dirt has some very good points, please check them out. Another point, that I have had happen. The linkage that connects the float control linkage to the rest of the linkage bolted to the side of the block, can be out of adjustment and will lock on "center". If this happens it will hold the ( Diesel - Gas ) linkage in one position and can cause the linkage to not switch positions. The linkage that I am talking about is visible in your 3rd. picture. WD -40 is your friend here, on all the linkages. You asked about the ( Gas, starting, decompression valves). There a 4 of them on a 4 cylinder engine, 6 on a 6 cylinder engine. Each cylinder has one that is a small engine valve that is located in the cylinder head. This valve opens to a small ( dead end ) chamber that reduces the compression ratio when the engine is in the starting position, and when closed blocks off this chamber, which increases the compression ratio enough for the engine to run on Diesel fuel. These 4 valves are controlled by a long rod running down the length of the cylinder head. The valves and springs are covered by a capsule sitting over the top of them. I would suggest getting someone to help you to operate the switch over lever, ( who you can trust to not strong arm the linkage ) while you observe what ( isn't ) happening. GT&T
  12. Turbo Twist Welcome to the forum. There is a wealth of information about these engines on the Construction Forum on this website. To give you some help understanding the gas start, diesel run engines, here is a brief summary of what happens. In the early days of diesel engine design every manufacturer had to devise a way of getting the diesel engine to start when it was cold. Some methods that were tried, included heated steel plugs that were heated red hot and dropped into the combustion chambers before the engine was started. Pony engines were used by Caterpillar, John Deere and others, that would be started and run on gasoline, they shared a common water jacket with the diesel engine and the gasoline exhaust manifold was usually siamiazed to the intake manifold of the diesel engine. This allowed an unlimited amount of cranking power and the longer the engine was being cranked the warmer the diesel engines air intake was heated. Cummins and others used a compression release handle that was used to lower the compression during the initial starting rotation, then as the engine was rotating at starter speed the compression release handle was dumped and the compression was increased. The inertia of the rotating crankshaft and flywheel helped to spin the engine to a running speed. Other manufacturers used electric glow plugs in the combustion chambers, and grid heaters in the intake manifold. Still others used a nozzle to spray a shot of fuel in the intake manifold that was ignited and the burning fuel and air mixture was pulled into the rotating engine. IH used a system like your UD 14, that starts on a complete gasoline engine system and then when the engine is warm enough the compression is increased and the fuel injection pump injects fuel into a warm and running engine. When these engines are set to the starting position ( gasoline position ) the engine has a distributor and spark plugs that fire a fuel mixture that is delivered by a carburetor and intake manifold. The engine is started and runs on gasoline. When the running engine is warm, the engine is switched to the ( diesel position ), at which time several things happen. ( 1. )The separate gasoline starting valves are closed, and the compression is increased. (2. ) The diesel fuel system begins injecting fuel into the combustion chamber. ( 3. ) The gasoline intake manifold flappers are closed. ( 4. ) The ignition current to the distributor is cut off by the switch in the front end of the intake manifold. ( 5. ) The fuel to the carburetor is stopped by a lever that raises the float. Now that you have a very brief summary I would suggest you check in the search box for more information about details. GT&T
  13. Col Richard Cole is the last surviving member of Doolittle Raiders, and turned 102 years old today. They were the first to bomb Japan after Pearl Harbor. Thank God for these great American Heroes, and the millions of men who fought for our freedom during WW II. We are free today because of them. GT&T
  14. GT&T

    IH SW6-TA help

    RedTurbo Thank you for the very good pictures, and (Show and Tell) about what happens when the camshaft nut comes loose. These pictures speak volumes. GT&T
  15. GT&T

    IH SW6-TA help

    Iowaboy Forgive me for butting in here. I only am trying to help you with something you may not be aware of. It appears from the pictures of your 400 front wheels, that the front pedestal and wheels maybe installed backwards. I only mention this because if it is installed backwards the tractor will be hard to steer, and won't want to return to straight ahead after turning. You can tell for sure by looking at the front wheels from a side view, if the front pedestal is installed backwards the front wheels will be sticking out forward from the centerline of the vertical steering shaft. Now for what to do about it. Some of this series of tractors, had a full round gear on top of the steering shaft. One of the 4 bolts that hold the lower pedestal on to the upper steering shaft is a special bolt with a 1" long head that goes in a slot to prevent the tractor from over steering. If your tractor has the full round gear in the steering gear box and does not have the special bolt in the lower flange the you should be able to just turn the steering wheel until the front wheels are leaning to the rear. This will allow the front wheels to have the proper caster and it will steer better. If your tractor has the stop bolt, you will have to turn the wheels to the spot that will allow the stop bolt to be removed, then turn the steering wheel until the wheels are in the proper place. You will also have to remove the opposite bolt and install the stop bolt in the proper place. If you find that you have a partial gear (sector gear) then you will have to jack the front end of the tractor and block it up. Then remove the four front end bolts in order to turn the front wheels to the proper position. I'm sorry for butting in here, and only do so to help you or any one else who may need to put the proper caster on their front wheels. GT&T
  16. CL If the shaft seal is leaking on the supply pump or scavenge pump the fuel will leak into the oil reservoir for the camshaft. A worn injection pump plunger or plungers will allow fuel to leak in the reservoir also. GT&T
  17. CL Welcome to the forum. If you will look in the construction equipment section, there should be an old post that has a lot of pictures of this type of injection pump being repaired. Hope you can find it and it should help you a lot. GT&T
  18. GT&T

    706 gas questions

    Ty Welcome to the forum. I don't know the answer to your problem, however I have a 706 with a C- 291 engine, if I may help you with some information. I'm confident others will chime in here with information that you are looking for. GT&T
  19. Bitty The Super A's had 2 arms on the left and one on the right, and if you will check the Super C parts manual some of the later ones also had only one on the right. GT&T
  20. Sledgehammer Thanks for the complement, you are so kind. God bless you. Fred
  21. Sledgehammer You're the Mann! Now that there was good. Where else can you go and get that kind of excellent information and accurate to within .001" of an inch. You are an over achiever. And in 2 hours time. Talk about UpTime service, Wow! Fred
  22. I can't answer your question, but you reminded me of one I saw at a farm sale. I couldn't believe my eyes, last year, there was one sold that was brand new. It was in excellent shape, had never been assembled, The paint was perfect, not faded, original just like it had come from the dealer. If I remember correctly, it had the metal tags with large stamped numbers, wired to the parts that IH used to identify parts. Not plastic or paper tags, with a bar code, like today. Thanks for the memories. GT&T
  23. 65806 You are very right. The same thing could have happened with weights and brackets. The wheels and /or tires could and were switched at the dealer between two tractors also. GT&T
  24. Red Tractor Fever Take the information above and compare this 0132 Code to your tractor. You may see the pattern form up that will tell you just how an 0132 Code is equipped. Remember that some of these things can be switched on the dealers lot and the may have added an extra auxillary valve or weights, or even an aftermarket cab etc. I too am enjoying this, I hope others with an 826 that has an 0132 Code will tell us how it is equipped. GT&T
  25. Red Tractor Fever It looks like the difference between your 2 different Codes could have been the factory cab, or possibly front weights. If I looked correctly those are the two " known " differences between your 2 tractors, from the factory. You still do not know which tractor would have had, which weight bracket, or if either tractor had been equipped with weights. Interesting. It'll be interesting what Code that the one in the middle has, and you may luck up and find one on either side of your serial no. GT&T
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