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GT&T

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Everything posted by GT&T

  1. Todd He does as good a job at craftsmanship as you do! Fred
  2. That was easy! Thanks for sharing that with us, many times people will ask for help and then never come back with the "rest of the story". GT&T
  3. JW Have you tried to shift the range transmission, while the linkage is unhooked from the shifter control? This will tell you if it is the shifter in the range transmission or if it is the linkage in the console that is locked. GT&T
  4. I had about forgot about that. Thanks for the reminder. I also remember jacking up that roll around floor jack, but I guess you were better behaved and didn't do that. Fred
  5. Overheal Welcome to the forum. I think you will find that this is a premier forum, You have an answer and a good one, in an hour and a half, complete with a part number, and an approximate price. And it didn't cost anything, anything better than that, and someone would have to buy it for you, deliver it to you, and install it for you. GT&T
  6. VT That is an impressive looking place you have there. It looks like you have a fine collection of back hoe loaders also. Please let us know how this thing performs with a new filter. Fred
  7. Todd That is some beautiful work that you have done. Your Craftmanship is wonderful. Fred
  8. I bet that would really be good if it had been left in the pan about 5 minutes longer. That must be why I have to ask for my bacon Extra Crispy. It's also why all cars aren't painted black. GT&T
  9. IH Forever I've hauled these 3point disc mowers quite a few times, and they are about as hard to load as anything I've hauled. It is about as hard as pushing a rope or chain. I would take several chains and binders, more than you might plan on needing. Also a couple of nylon tie down straps, to hold down the wind screen. Also take the PTO shaft out and put it in the pickup bed. GT&T
  10. Man those are some fine looking tractors and farming operation. Where are you located? IH should have taken their photo shoots at your place. Also I have never seen IH photos that the tractors had enough tires or weights that were customary in the fields. You always had to order tractors with optional tire sizes if you wanted them to perform well. GT&T
  11. Chuckie Welcome to the forum. I can't help with your filter number or source. I might suggest that you post this in the construction forum here on Red Power, there are some very helpful people there and they may get you some more viewers. GT&T
  12. Danny Happy Birthday, hope you have many more. Fred
  13. IHReddrive Wow, you sure have done a beautiful restoration on that 504. The shim idea is excellent and very well done. Congratulations! GT&T
  14. Reichow I might suggest that you jack up one of the rear wheels and rock that wheel back and forth. This will make sure there is no gear loading that is holding pressure against the gears and preventing the gears shifting. You might think about a pickup truck pulling out of a muddy field, when you try to go back to 2 wheel drive, it may not until you push in the clutch and/or shift to neutral. GT&T
  15. Reichow It sounds like the shift linkage is still in low range and the shift lever has jumped out of the shift gate. If you will have someone get in the seat and attempt to shift the lever while you look under the floor board, you can figure which rod and lever needs to be moved what direction to get the linkage in sync. Then move the linkage under the floor board to match the position that the lever is in. I can't put into words what needs to be done, but if I were there I could put it back to working properly, in less time than it has taken me to write this paragraph. You will need a long screw driver or pry bat to pry the linkage with. Without seeing the tractor and shifting and observing the linkage, won't know what is worn or loose that is causing this to occur. My guess is loose ball joint linkages, worn and loose splines on the shifter tubes under the seat. A good way to find out if the splines are worn, is to tap the shifter linkage further on the splines, then add another snap ring behind the 2 snap rings that hold the levers on the tubes. In other words, use 2 snap rings on each tube. What this does is to force the lever deeper on to the splines where there is no wear. Hope this helps. GT&T
  16. Jeff Welcome to the forum. Like Lightingboy has said just above, there is a topic in the truck forum that has some good information about this subject. Here is a link to it if it works: /topic/130134-carb-options-for-a-345-in-a-loadstar/. GT&T
  17. Mike Welcome to the forum. Are you experiencing any chattering in the brakes when you are turning? And like TB5288 has said, what condition are the bearings like in both the pinion shaft and the differential? Have you checked the bearing end play on the bull pinion? GT&T
  18. Hardknocks Have you looked at the paint on the yoke? Could the yoke be bent slightly, and either direction is wrong? Like I said one of mine has a stack of 3/4"flat washers about 1" thick and I have never figured out why. Your idea should work, you may have to add slightly longer bolts. GT&T
  19. Hardknocks Have you looked if you could turn the yoke over? If I remember right mine have a bend in the yoke. GT&T
  20. Hardknocks I have 2 Farmall 656's and one of them has a stack of 3/4" flat washers between the 4 bolts and the tractor bolster. I don't know what the difference is between the two tractors, but the other tractor doesn't have the stacks of washers. GT&T
  21. Hardknocks Would you have an International front axle under a Farmall tractor or vice - versa? GT&T
  22. Memory Welcome to the forum. I don't have the spec's in front of me, however the spec's should be the same as the Farmall and/or International 504. The 2504 is just an industrial version of the 504, and usually will be painted yellow. This is true on all of the International tractors, a prefix of 2 indicates an industrial version. You may want to post this in the General forum, as it will get more hits. GT&T
  23. Dennis On the inside of the cab, under the dash, where the clutch rod attaches to the pedal. There is a plastic bushing that goes over the clutch operating pin that is welded to the pedal. This plastic bushing wears out and will fall out of the clutch rod. When this happens it will allow too much free play to release the clutch. If the clutch has been used a lot with a worn or missing plastic bushing then the steel pin that is welded to the clutch pedal may be worn also. I have one that has 520,000 miles and that is what mine had wrong. GT&T
  24. Look very biodegradable to me. Also resistant to towel heads.
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