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GT&T

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Posts posted by GT&T


  1. Glyn

          Welcome to the forum.    Having worked on quite a few of these series tractors,  I have noticed that the shift linkage on the left console will get dirty corroded and begin to drag when you shift gears.    I have seen that when you shift from one gear to another that this dragging will pull the shift linkage from one gear partially into position that it will be dragging the teeth of another gear.    My suggestion would be to get some WD-40 or chain lube or other thin spray lubricant,  and lubricate all the linkage under the left console.   I would also loosen the four screws,  and remove  the cover on the center of transmission,   located between your legs when seated on the tractor.     Lubricate this linkage also while shifting into all the gear positions.   You will find that it will shift a whole lot better and may not be grinding.

          If you still have problems with grinding you may have problems with detents in the transmission not in place.    I would try lubricating the linkage and have someone to operate all the linkage while you look at it from under the console. 

         I hope this helps.

    GT&T


  2. 3 minutes ago, Mudfly said:

    So I just want to thank those that contributed.  It turned out to be minor but when you are on the road, everything is a big deal.

    specifically I want to say thank you, as you guys helped me collect my thoughts as to what needed to be checked, tested and then done.  When you are out by yourself it is beneficial to have someone or many someone’s to bounce ideas off of to make sure you are on the right path.

    Mudfly

            Thank you for that compliment and also for taking the time to say Thank You!     You would be surprised to know how many times that someone has asked for information or help,  and never even acknowledged that someone answered their question. 

            I have used your method of obtaining help many times and it has always helped me.

    GT&T

    • Like 1

  3. IH fanforlife

           Thanks for that beautiful picture,  it is so clear that I think I will be able to drill it just like you said and install a small roll pin or drill bit.  ( Through the computer.)

    That is a good Idea.

    GT&T

    • Haha 2

  4. Mudfly

           If you need more help,  you may try Google for AutoZone,  O'Rileys , Advance or other parts stores.    AutoZone will have rental tools if you need something special.

          Glad you are going now and please keep us informed of your progress.   I'm also a combat veteran from VietNam,  thank you and your wife for her service to us and our country.    What is your destination?    I would like to follow along as you go.

    GT&T

    • Like 1

  5. Mudfly

          If you suspicion a leaking head gasket,  here is a quick check.   With the engine off,  fill the radiator full to the top,  then start the engine and while running make sure the radiator is full.  Then while the engine is running,   with radiator cap off,  look for bubbles or for the coolant level rising and over flowing.  You will have some over flowing due to the coolant expanding from the engine warming up.

    GT&T


  6. Mudfly

           Have you checked the radiator coolant level?    You mentioned that the storage tank or reservoir was full.   The radiator cap is under pressure and cannot be checked when the engine is hot as the coolant will blow out when the pressure is released.  This will scald you and anyone near the vehicle.

          The reason I ask is,  it is possible for the engine to be low on coolant,   even though the storage tank or reservoir is full.

           I am on line and I will post this and wait while you check.   I have more information, but will be writing it while you are answering.

    GT&T


  7. Binder Dan

           This sounds so obvious that I am reluctant to ask?   Do you know  that there is a screen in the PTO suction tube?  It could  be stopped up with the same trash that was in your hydraulic filter and filter bypass screen.   The whole hydraulic system will have remnants of what got through the filter bypass screen.   This filter bypass was running open when the filter was plugged.  That screen is not going to stop anything except large particles,  when you start and run the system with new HyTran,  this will flush out the system and the screen in the PTO pickup tube may be plugged again.

            You may want to pull the hydraulic filter again,  and see what might be in the new filter,  and/or filter bypass screen.

    GT&T

    • Like 1

  8. Tbn

            Welcome to the forum.    There is a Construction Forum on this site that has a very wide following.  If you will go back to the "Boards" heading and go to the Construction section,  there are a very large amount of people that are very knowledgeable on construction equipment.   I feel like you will get a much better response there.

    GT&T   


  9. Mighty 1206

            Thanks for posting this information.   It is very good to know.  I'm glad to know that there are business  that can replace some of the parts that are no longer available.

    GT&T


  10. Eason

           I had seen your post and I didn't recognize the model number,  but after seeing Mr. Plows post I can see that if the last zero had been left off then,  the model could easily be an Industrial 2500.   This would make the tractor very close to a 574.  I have a 2500 and also the manuals.   With exception to the things like front axles, rear axles, grille and tire and wheel sizes,  the 574 service manual should be able to cover much information.   Hope this helps.

    Fred


  11. Scott

           Welcome to the forum.     My first thought is you have a  pinion bearing problem.   When the tractor engine is loading the transmission the pinion bearings are loaded in a positive  direction,  but when the momentum of the tractor  is loading the engine then the pinion bearings are loaded in the opposite direction.   This will change position of all the gears on the transmission shaft,  which is where the noise is coming from.   I would recommend  pulling the top transmission cover and inspecting the bearings and gears,  before you do more damage to the tractor.

    GT&T

    • Like 1

  12. 14 hours ago, lorenzo said:

    When my mom got in her upper 80’s and 90’s  she fell victim to all kinds of that Crap. 
    Once you get taken by one of them they all jump on the band wagon and bombard you with all kinds of scams . 
     

    It saddened me terribly to watch her being taken advantage of . 
     

    I am not very nice to the phone scams when I get them . In fact I’m down right mean to them.  I drag them on as long as possible and then I lay into em with every degrading name I can think of . 

    If I could track one of them scum down I would beat em untill they beg me to stop and then open his mouth up on a curb and  kick the back of his head . 

     

    Don't hold back,  tell us how you really feel.

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

  13. Minnesota Farmall

           Like Iowaboy has said those are both IH.   The mower has been modified by removing the lift handle for the bar,  and adding a hydraulic cylinder.   I have one exactly like it and it too has been modified by my dad years ago.   The hydraulic cylinder addition makes them a joy to use.

    GT&T

    • Like 2

  14. Mule

           If you turn the steering wheel against the stops,  and hold it there,  does the steering wheel continue to turn?   Does it act like the fluid is leaking through the steering cylinder?  It may just have to have the Steering cylinder rebuilt.

    GT&T


  15. Fball1208

           I'm not sure what you are saying,  but if I am understanding correctly, it sounds like the lower end of the right hand link arm may have stripped out threads.    You might try to turn the crank and raise the right hand lift arm up higher,  this will pick up new threads in the casting.  This won't fix the problem but you will know what is wrong.  Hope this helps.

    GT&T


  16. 8 minutes ago, Diesel Doctor said:

    Now I see what is happening here.

    Where is the wear?

    Is it in the pins, or in the fly weights, or both?

    Take it apart one more step and send a photo?

    The case will still work fine but you want this grinding stopped.

     

     

            What Diesel Doctor said is very accurate,   I would suggest that you try  to tighten the pivots for the flyweights by  re-riveting them.  They may well tighten up just fine by tightening the rivets on an anvil.   If they do that will be an easy fix,  if they don't you have lost nothing.  

           Hope this works.

    GT&T

    • Like 1
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