GT&T

I got a big laugh out of this, glad that fixed your problem.

What Hydro Tek said is right on. I might add to what he said, Check the U joint in the steering shaft for being worn and loose, and also for being loose on the shaft and also a worn and loose woodruf key and key way. The nuts that hold the bearing on the front of the worn shaft, and the sector gear that Hydro Tek is talking about may be loose. It would be nice if that would be all that it took to fix you up.

Todd Thank you, for your support and all the others who haven't forgotten the sacrifice that veterans have have made, so that Americans and others may live in a free world. God bless America!

My brother and I are planning on going to the Half Century of Progress. If it is possible , I have had a knee replaced and have been doing very well with therapy. We look forward to seeing all of you, God willing.

Mr. Pope Thanks for that reply. You made my day. I hope others may have learned something from this as well. Fred PS. Thanks for the information about using a MotorCraft carburetor on these engines. I remember reading this on here many years ago, and you may be the one who posted it then. Also both the 2 barrel and 4 barrel versions.

Keith You might try to epoxy that carburetor bowl and may be able to salvage that carburetor. I just loved that video that your son made for us. You have got a very nice looking and running truck. I hope it performs as well as it looks. For it's age there aren't many that look and run that good. Also I would check under the front end of the right exhaust manifold, on the engine block. There will be a raised boss, on the block, scrape and sand this boss clean, you should see the Model number of the engine stamped there. You may have a V8 392 engine in this truck. On another note, you asked for any suggestions. The International SV series engines, SV 266, 304, 345, & 392 , all are timed on number 8 cylinder. You need to know this and please be sure to tell you mechanic, or it will cost you or them a lot of time, aggravation, and money. The reason that they are timed on number 8 cylinder is; These engines are externally balanced, and the front damper has no metal in the position where the number 1 cylinder timing mark would be located. I don't have to tell you how I know this, "I saw the video", These engines are very hard to keep exhaust manifold gaskets and exhaust pipes from leaking. When you get gaskets and donut rings, I'd recommend getting another set just to have a spare. They may be getting harder to come by. Also when reassembling the manifolds and pipes, I highly recommend using antisieze on the threads and double nutting the flange to manifold bolts. Especially if I may be the one to have to change them the next time. If you even think you may have a hard time removing the manifold bolts, please do yourself a favor, and get a torch and heat the head area where each bolt is threaded, red hot, before removing the bolts. GT&T

SuperIH Wow ! This reads like the history of the IH Axial flow. You have surely put a tremendous amount of work into researching this information. Thanks for doing such a wonderful job. GT&T

Madmack Wow, that is some snow. You could be very right about the brakes needing to be adjusted. I'm sorry you have such harsh weather to deal with. Keep us posted as you make progress. GT&T

Madman Just checking on your progress, how has it been going? GT&T

Madmack I am thinking that if you can get the brakes to hold or work, after pumping them up, the first thing I would do is to do a very good job of bleeding out air in the system. I have worked on these brakes and they are difficult to bleed. You will need to be very persistant. A good method of bleeding is called "Back bleeding". You will need to build an adapter that allows you to hook your pressure bleeder to each of the wheel cylinders, one at a time. Start bleeding at the farthest wheel cylinder, purge the air all the way back to the master cylinder. This can take quite a lot of DOT 3 brake fluid, but after bleeding this way the system will be full of clean air free fluid. After bleeding the furthest wheel cylinder close off the bleeder, and move to the next bleeder. By the time you get to the Hydrovac you will be surprised how good the brakes will work. GT&T

Sam I have really enjoyed looking at the work and skilled craftsmanship that you have accomplished on this tractor. I have done some of this type of work, making steel parts for corroded or destroyed parts. It is very difficult to do but is highly rewarding when you get the results that you have. Congratulations. Well done. GT&T

Thanks for the information. It sounds like they may have set on the lot a while, for someone to remember them. When was the cab added to the one? GT&T

That is a nice set of pictures and information that you have put together. I see that the two that you have were sold from the same dealership and within 3 months of each other. Do you have any records from Arnold's of Kimball that would indicate that they may have sold 15699? GT&T

65806 You are very right. The same thing could have happened with weights and brackets. The wheels and /or tires could and were switched at the dealer between two tractors also. GT&T

Red Tractor Fever Take the information above and compare this 0132 Code to your tractor. You may see the pattern form up that will tell you just how an 0132 Code is equipped. Remember that some of these things can be switched on the dealers lot and the may have added an extra auxillary valve or weights, or even an aftermarket cab etc. I too am enjoying this, I hope others with an 826 that has an 0132 Code will tell us how it is equipped. GT&T

Red Tractor Fever It looks like the difference between your 2 different Codes could have been the factory cab, or possibly front weights. If I looked correctly those are the two " known " differences between your 2 tractors, from the factory. You still do not know which tractor would have had, which weight bracket, or if either tractor had been equipped with weights. Interesting. It'll be interesting what Code that the one in the middle has, and you may luck up and find one on either side of your serial no. GT&T

Red Tractor Fever The term used at the dealership and by IH was refred to as the Kind & Code. The "Kind" 251 would be an 826, the 0148 and 0132 would be the "Code", on your 2 tractors. If you would be so kind as to tell us exactly, as best as you can tell, how each tractor is equipped, then you would know what the two codes mean. I use the term, "as best as you can tell" , because you may not know what the capacity of each tractors hydraulic pump is, or if they both have the same type of tires as they were originally built with etc. etc. etc. Just some variables, power steering, long axles, deluxe seat, hydraulic seat, tilt steering wheel, water filter, weight bracket. I hope this helps until someone with a dealer code book can tell us what the Codes are for an 826. You have got my curiosity up now, I'd like to know just for giggles. GT&T

That is a good idea also. GT&T

Red Tractor Fever I don't know if this will work or not, but it is just a thought. I think that the Wisconsin history museum has lists of tractors that were produced, and what dealership they were sent to, and who they were built for. If you were to find your two serial no.'s and the one you are looking for, then just by chance you may figure out where they were sent originally. This is a long shot but just might have been sent to a dealer that is still in business. Good luck! GT&T

Red Tractor Fever Red Tractor Fever Boy do you have it bad. GT&T