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GT&T

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Everything posted by GT&T

  1. Duntongw When I read this statement it answers a lot of my questions. Next step. Hook up the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump, with the pump off the engine block, and the outlet of the pump unhooked. Then pump the pump lever by hand, does the pump squirt fuel when you do? Then hook the pump back to the engine block and spin the engine over, does the pump squirt fuel then? If it does, then hook fuel line to outlet of the pump, and unhook the fuel line from the carburetor. Spin the engine over and check the fuel flow out of the line to the carburetor, it should squirt full squirts every time the camshaft operates the pump lever. You should also hold a couple of pounds of fuel pressure at the outlet. If you do not get any fuel flow with the outlet line disconnected then you may have a cam lobe worn or the fuel pump lever may not be touching the cam lobe. ( Think, wrong pump, bent pump lever, mounted upside down, pump lever not long enough. ) Remember just because the new pump is the same as the old one, does not make it the correct pump, you had the same problem with the old pump. GT&T
  2. Bitty Thank you. Things have been going very well. I have been following along, this forum has been very therapeutic. Fred
  3. Duntongw You are right that the carburetor must be kept full of fuel. However you need to be sure that the carburetor is kept full of liquid fuel and not just have fuel vapor going to it. If there is a restricted fuel line at the tank and the fuel pump can pull air or vapor in the line from the sediment bowl then the carburetor will be getting vapor pressure and not liquid. This is what is known as vapor locked. GT&T
  4. IHrondiesel Thank you. It has been repainted, and the boy that did the painting and preparation did an outstanding job. Fred
  5. Alan Thank you. I've been very occupied for some time now, I have however been following along and this forum has been very therapeutic for me. Fred
  6. I've always wanted one, and now that I've got one I can't wait till the next time to drive it and work it. It is a very therapeutic piece of equipment. It will pull any thing that isn't too big for it, just like my Super H. It would pull the kinks out of the Mississippi River if you could get it hooked up. GT&T ?
  7. Duntongw Does your tractor have a fuel pump? If it does then I would put fuel pressure gauge in the line at the carburetor. Then check the fuel pressure with the engine running with out a load and then again with a full load and watch the fuel pressure as the engine begins to stall. If there is a restriction in the fittings or lines from the tank, as the fuel flow is supposed to increase due to the increased load, the restriction will cause a drop in fuel pressure. You may have a weak or broken spring in the fuel pump, which will result in a loss of fuel pressure when the engine is under a load. You may have to add a test tank to feed fuel by gravity to the carburetor. Then run the tractor under load on this test tank. You can install a clear test line to the top of the test tank and observe the fuel flow for bubbles or low flow. Hope this helps. GT&T
  8. West Farms I think that this front end came off a Farmall A, or Super A, or Farmall 100, or 130. GT&T
  9. IH 88 You mentioned that the fuel flow, "To the filters is good". Have you checked the fuel flow, "To the injection pump? I have seen trash build up in the banjo fitting bolt and restrict the flow. GT&T
  10. Eason That is a very good photo and has excellent detail even when enlarged. 80 years later, that is quite remarkable. Do you know the location where it was taken? Are the buildings still there? Fred
  11. Brewcrew What I have done is to go to a salvage yard get some lights from a salvage combine. You can replace the sealed beams with halogen bulbs, or flood lights or LED bulbs. GT&T
  12. Mitch Welcome to the forum. I think you will find this is a wonderful forum with a wealth of information. GT&T
  13. 756 Puller What snoshoe said right on. I hope you are doing well. Fred PS I just read your 2nd. post. You should be able to replace the bolt in the release bearing as well, without splitting the tractor.
  14. Paystar Thank You for helping to clear up what I was trying to say. You are absolutely right. GT&T
  15. Nathanyel Welcome to the forum. You may try the Wisconsin Historical Society, they have a large volume of records from IH that they make available to anyone looking for information about International Harvester. I wish you luck. GT&T
  16. Bob and others, I have one that right now is doing what you are experiencing, I found mine was leaking at a poor crimp on the hydraulic hose. After checking the hose size, I found that there had been a size #8 hose installed with size #10 fittings. My thoughts are that the hose may be restricting the flow and causing a pressure rise. GT&T
  17. Adam The first thing that I would do is to stop the combine in the field, in the cut, and then crawl under it and look where the beans are located on the ground. This will tell you where they are coming out. There may be a " shoe " on the rear of the grain head that slides on entrance to the cylinder as the header is raised and lowered. This "shoe" should be spring loaded to seal the opening to the cylinder. If the hinge is rusted and does not move, then when the header is down, there may be an opening for the beans to come out. You would want to check this with the header down, because it may not be visible when the header is up. Hope this helps. GT&T
  18. Brady Boy and Auger Creek and all the others with birthdays today Happy Birthday, and many more. Your birth date is a date, that will be remembered forever. GT&T
  19. Glyn Welcome to the forum. Having worked on quite a few of these series tractors, I have noticed that the shift linkage on the left console will get dirty corroded and begin to drag when you shift gears. I have seen that when you shift from one gear to another that this dragging will pull the shift linkage from one gear partially into position that it will be dragging the teeth of another gear. My suggestion would be to get some WD-40 or chain lube or other thin spray lubricant, and lubricate all the linkage under the left console. I would also loosen the four screws, and remove the cover on the center of transmission, located between your legs when seated on the tractor. Lubricate this linkage also while shifting into all the gear positions. You will find that it will shift a whole lot better and may not be grinding. If you still have problems with grinding you may have problems with detents in the transmission not in place. I would try lubricating the linkage and have someone to operate all the linkage while you look at it from under the console. I hope this helps. GT&T
  20. Mudfly Thank you for that compliment and also for taking the time to say Thank You! You would be surprised to know how many times that someone has asked for information or help, and never even acknowledged that someone answered their question. I have used your method of obtaining help many times and it has always helped me. GT&T
  21. IH fanforlife Thanks for that beautiful picture, it is so clear that I think I will be able to drill it just like you said and install a small roll pin or drill bit. ( Through the computer.) That is a good Idea. GT&T
  22. Mudfly If you need more help, you may try Google for AutoZone, O'Rileys , Advance or other parts stores. AutoZone will have rental tools if you need something special. Glad you are going now and please keep us informed of your progress. I'm also a combat veteran from VietNam, thank you and your wife for her service to us and our country. What is your destination? I would like to follow along as you go. GT&T
  23. Mudfly If you suspicion a leaking head gasket, here is a quick check. With the engine off, fill the radiator full to the top, then start the engine and while running make sure the radiator is full. Then while the engine is running, with radiator cap off, look for bubbles or for the coolant level rising and over flowing. You will have some over flowing due to the coolant expanding from the engine warming up. GT&T
  24. Mudfly Have you checked the radiator coolant level? You mentioned that the storage tank or reservoir was full. The radiator cap is under pressure and cannot be checked when the engine is hot as the coolant will blow out when the pressure is released. This will scald you and anyone near the vehicle. The reason I ask is, it is possible for the engine to be low on coolant, even though the storage tank or reservoir is full. I am on line and I will post this and wait while you check. I have more information, but will be writing it while you are answering. GT&T
  25. Binder Dan This sounds so obvious that I am reluctant to ask? Do you know that there is a screen in the PTO suction tube? It could be stopped up with the same trash that was in your hydraulic filter and filter bypass screen. The whole hydraulic system will have remnants of what got through the filter bypass screen. This filter bypass was running open when the filter was plugged. That screen is not going to stop anything except large particles, when you start and run the system with new HyTran, this will flush out the system and the screen in the PTO pickup tube may be plugged again. You may want to pull the hydraulic filter again, and see what might be in the new filter, and/or filter bypass screen. GT&T
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