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GT&T

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About GT&T

  • Birthday 04/13/1949

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    Griggsville Illinois

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  1. Duntongw When I read this statement it answers a lot of my questions. Next step. Hook up the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump, with the pump off the engine block, and the outlet of the pump unhooked. Then pump the pump lever by hand, does the pump squirt fuel when you do? Then hook the pump back to the engine block and spin the engine over, does the pump squirt fuel then? If it does, then hook fuel line to outlet of the pump, and unhook the fuel line from the carburetor. Spin the engine over and check the fuel flow out of the line to the carburetor, it should squirt full squirts every time the camshaft operates the pump lever. You should also hold a couple of pounds of fuel pressure at the outlet. If you do not get any fuel flow with the outlet line disconnected then you may have a cam lobe worn or the fuel pump lever may not be touching the cam lobe. ( Think, wrong pump, bent pump lever, mounted upside down, pump lever not long enough. ) Remember just because the new pump is the same as the old one, does not make it the correct pump, you had the same problem with the old pump. GT&T
  2. Bitty Thank you. Things have been going very well. I have been following along, this forum has been very therapeutic. Fred
  3. Duntongw You are right that the carburetor must be kept full of fuel. However you need to be sure that the carburetor is kept full of liquid fuel and not just have fuel vapor going to it. If there is a restricted fuel line at the tank and the fuel pump can pull air or vapor in the line from the sediment bowl then the carburetor will be getting vapor pressure and not liquid. This is what is known as vapor locked. GT&T
  4. IHrondiesel Thank you. It has been repainted, and the boy that did the painting and preparation did an outstanding job. Fred
  5. Alan Thank you. I've been very occupied for some time now, I have however been following along and this forum has been very therapeutic for me. Fred
  6. I've always wanted one, and now that I've got one I can't wait till the next time to drive it and work it. It is a very therapeutic piece of equipment. It will pull any thing that isn't too big for it, just like my Super H. It would pull the kinks out of the Mississippi River if you could get it hooked up. GT&T ?
  7. Duntongw Does your tractor have a fuel pump? If it does then I would put fuel pressure gauge in the line at the carburetor. Then check the fuel pressure with the engine running with out a load and then again with a full load and watch the fuel pressure as the engine begins to stall. If there is a restriction in the fittings or lines from the tank, as the fuel flow is supposed to increase due to the increased load, the restriction will cause a drop in fuel pressure. You may have a weak or broken spring in the fuel pump, which will result in a loss of fuel pressure when the engine is under a load. You may have to add a test tank to feed fuel by gravity to the carburetor. Then run the tractor under load on this test tank. You can install a clear test line to the top of the test tank and observe the fuel flow for bubbles or low flow. Hope this helps. GT&T
  8. Mighty 1206 Thanks for posting this information. It is very good to know. I'm glad to know that there are business that can replace some of the parts that are no longer available. GT&T
  9. MTO May the Lord God Almighty be with Hayden, and the doctors and nurses and you and runner. He will send his guardian angles to look after you all. Fred
  10. Mr. Pope Thanks for that reply. You made my day. I hope others may have learned something from this as well. Fred PS. Thanks for the information about using a MotorCraft carburetor on these engines. I remember reading this on here many years ago, and you may be the one who posted it then. Also both the 2 barrel and 4 barrel versions.
  11. Keith You might try to epoxy that carburetor bowl and may be able to salvage that carburetor. I just loved that video that your son made for us. You have got a very nice looking and running truck. I hope it performs as well as it looks. For it's age there aren't many that look and run that good. Also I would check under the front end of the right exhaust manifold, on the engine block. There will be a raised boss, on the block, scrape and sand this boss clean, you should see the Model number of the engine stamped there. You may have a V8 392 engine in this truck. On another note, you asked for any suggestions. The International SV series engines, SV 266, 304, 345, & 392 , all are timed on number 8 cylinder. You need to know this and please be sure to tell you mechanic, or it will cost you or them a lot of time, aggravation, and money. The reason that they are timed on number 8 cylinder is; These engines are externally balanced, and the front damper has no metal in the position where the number 1 cylinder timing mark would be located. I don't have to tell you how I know this, "I saw the video", These engines are very hard to keep exhaust manifold gaskets and exhaust pipes from leaking. When you get gaskets and donut rings, I'd recommend getting another set just to have a spare. They may be getting harder to come by. Also when reassembling the manifolds and pipes, I highly recommend using antisieze on the threads and double nutting the flange to manifold bolts. Especially if I may be the one to have to change them the next time. If you even think you may have a hard time removing the manifold bolts, please do yourself a favor, and get a torch and heat the head area where each bolt is threaded, red hot, before removing the bolts. GT&T
  12. SuperIH Wow ! This reads like the history of the IH Axial flow. You have surely put a tremendous amount of work into researching this information. Thanks for doing such a wonderful job. GT&T
  13. Madmack Wow, that is some snow. You could be very right about the brakes needing to be adjusted. I'm sorry you have such harsh weather to deal with. Keep us posted as you make progress. GT&T
  14. Madman Just checking on your progress, how has it been going? GT&T
  15. Madmack I am thinking that if you can get the brakes to hold or work, after pumping them up, the first thing I would do is to do a very good job of bleeding out air in the system. I have worked on these brakes and they are difficult to bleed. You will need to be very persistant. A good method of bleeding is called "Back bleeding". You will need to build an adapter that allows you to hook your pressure bleeder to each of the wheel cylinders, one at a time. Start bleeding at the farthest wheel cylinder, purge the air all the way back to the master cylinder. This can take quite a lot of DOT 3 brake fluid, but after bleeding this way the system will be full of clean air free fluid. After bleeding the furthest wheel cylinder close off the bleeder, and move to the next bleeder. By the time you get to the Hydrovac you will be surprised how good the brakes will work. GT&T
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