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mudmakerhf

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About mudmakerhf

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  • Birthday 04/25/1951

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  • Location
    Farmington Minnesota
  • Interests
    IHC Tractors and Trucks

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  1. I Had to replace the drive on my MD, same engine as your TD6. I had trouble with it sticking in the none drive position. After several one start and take it out to free it up. I freed up the drive with a punch and hammer, then rolled the drive forward on the shaft and ground the edge of the gear where it seats against the shaft with a Dremel tool. There is a sharp edge that gets stuck on the shaft. Hard to describe, I didn't take pics sorry. Hugh
  2. Sorry that this took awhile. These are SKF (C/R)? numbers I think I bought them at the local NAPA. Rear axel is 33033, you can get the axel shaft out if you remove the PTO to get the bolt out of the bull gear. If you want to change the brake shaft bull pinion seals you either have to remove the brake drum and pry them out while on the tractor or remove the transmission cover and remove the bull gear. The originals were a two lip seal and a bit of a pain to remove. So I use two single lip on each side when replacing. That # is 23184. The brake & clutch pedal shaft seal, one for each side is # 11171. I had to remove the axel and wheel in one piece to push the wheel off of the axel, in a press. Do not push the wheel off by using the seal ring, push the wheel separately . The push the seal ring but not the seal cover!! It will come with the ring. I seam to remember a pin in the axel shaft and a groove in the seal ring to stop it from turning. Good Luck!! Hugh
  3. Try your old condenser again. The new ones are not as good, easy cheap thing to try. Hugh
  4. On my brothers H the sleeve that the throw out bearing slides on had a ridge worn in it so when the pedal was released the bearing would hang up on the ridge. The sleeve is made out of something soft like pewter. I had a spare from a salvage yard and that is all it needed. Hugh
  5. mudmakerhf

    Super MD

    Before turning the engine over if it has been sitting a long time, remove the valve cover and bump each valve with the end of a hammer handle to be sure a valve isn't stuck. The S182 farm truck I bought from my uncles action had two stuck valves on the BD308 and them trying to get it going they destroyed two hard to find push rods. On the MD the stating valves could be stuck also. If you force the switch over lever you may break the cast iron stands that hold the starting valve operating shaft on top of the head. Hugh
  6. mudmakerhf

    No spark

    Mag or battery ignition? If mag check the wire that goes though the casting from the condenser to the points. I have found many to be green inside and have little continuity, or none when warm.
  7. My Super WD9 that is the same design but larger had an issue with hard starting. Turned out that when the throttle lever was in the full shut off position the fuel lever on the pump was not all the way off. Put the throttle lever to off and pull the pin on the linkage at the pump and see if you can move the pump lever farther toward off. It doesn't take much fuel in the cylinders to "kill" the gas. Adjust linkage as needed. Hugh
  8. I changed out a light bulb in my daughters Chamberland garage door opener with a screw in LED bulb and the transmitters no longer worked. I tried to reprogram them and it didn't help. I put a rough service incandescent light back in and everything has worked fine since. It was just a LED bulb we got at Menard's though. Hugh
  9. The white on the two tone IHC trucks in the '50s is called Magnolia White.
  10. Sorry for your frustration! The valve cover does not come off hard. Remove the air cleaner pipe then the cover and see if any valves dropped. If you get it back to turning over and get smoke on gas mode take the pin out of the throttle lever on the pump and move the throttle lever on the dash to slow shut off position. Holding the pump lever full forward the pin holes should align. My SWD9 was not shutting the diesel off fully and made starting hard. Good luck!! Hugh
  11. I chased a similar problem on my 1957 IH S182 with a BD308. And a 1951 Mack A40 mixer truck with a flat head 6 cylinder 377. After fuel pumps and a oil cooler to try to stop any vaper lock and a couple of different coils what fixed it was replacing the condenser. Even though they were fairly new. Both trucks would run fine for about ten minutes then start bucking under load but would idle fine. Good Luck! Hugh
  12. If you are looking from behind the dist. towards the front of the tractor the rotor should turn clockwise. firing order is 1 3 4 2. Hugh
  13. To time an "H" with a battery ignition, you are correct to turn the engine on the #1 compression stroke to the first of the two notches that are close together. I use an ohm meter across the points and retard the timing, turn the dist.body the same direction as the rotor turns until the points are closed. The manual says to use the ammeter on the tractor but my neck is not that long. When you are on the timing mark and the points are closed, advance the timing ( turn the body opposite of the way the rotor turns) until the points just open and then tighten the locking bolt. Then set the valves on the #1 cylinder. turn the engine 1/2 turn. You can use the ohm meter across the points to be right on the #3 cylinder top dead center. Set the valves on #3 then bring it back up on the timing mark (1/2) turn and set #4 valves. Another half turn with the ohm meter on the points and do the valves on #2. Of coarse you can make a mark the pulley when #3 is TDC so you don't have to use the ohm meter on #2. Hugh
  14. I have a friend with a small airplane, Camp, and he was having trouble with getting the fuel out of one of his wing tanks. I was helping him with his Annual inspection when he told me that and we ran a wire through the vent tube. Mud wasp nest in there. Now running a wire through the tank vents is part of the annual. Hugh
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