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mudmakerhf

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About mudmakerhf

  • Birthday 04/25/1951

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  • Location
    Farmington Minnesota
  • Interests
    IHC Tractors and Trucks

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  1. Do not use a timing light on a magneto. As soon as the engine starts and runs fast enough to throw out the impulse lugs, the mag goes to 35 degrees advance. If you want to check your advance you can measure the diameter of the pulley and multiply by 3.1416. Then divide that number by 360 to find the distance for one degree. Times 35 to see how far ahead of the Top dead center mark the light should flash. If it impulses at the first of the double marks while hand cranking slowly it is timed correct and the gears are correct. One issue I have found on the H4 mags is, the wire that goes through the passage from the condenser to the points gets bad inside and will not carry current when it gets hot. One end has to be crimped after the wire is installed. The point end should have a "flag" wire terminal. .013 is correct for mag points. When I take a mag off, I turn the engine until the rotor is pointing straight up. If it is wired correct with number one being at about 2 o'clock from the wire end, it should have just fired on number 2 and starting up on the compression stoke of number one. That makes it much easier to reinstall the mag and not fight the impulse spring. Once the coupling is engaged start the bolts and lean the top of the mag toward the engine and slowly bring the first of the double notches up to the pointer and stop. Tip the top of the mag away from the engine until it just trips. Tighten the bolts. Turn the engine one revolution, number four should fire at the mark. and watch to be sure it does not trip early. Adjust if necessary. Good Luck, Hugh
  2. My grandfather's sister had a dance studio right downtown. About 1965 when Dad and Mom took a couple of us to Florida we stayed the night there. 18 W Ontario between Michigan and State St. it was spooky back then. Dad had a new F85 Olds Vista Cruiser. He made a deal with the guy that ran a car wash very near to park it inside overnight. I really enjoyed the Museum of Science and Industry. IH had a large display in there and of course I got to tour the German U Boat. When we could afford a vacation when my kids were teenagers we would drive to Florida, but by then I 24 was finished so we would go south to Paduka and East thru Tennessee. I haven't been to Chicago since and have no desire to. I do recall McCormick center was huge. Hugh
  3. I have had several tractors of this vintage do the same thing. W4, cub and a couple of "H"s. The most common cure was to remove the sediment bowl fitting from the bottom of the fuel tank and clean out the hole that feeds the bowl. The fixture is made out of some kind of pot metal and turns into a thick paste and closes the opening. Hugh
  4. At one time it probably had a tank heater. If it started to leak or they wanted to remove it, that was an easy way to bypass it. Normally the radiator had a vertical pipe with a 3/8" pipe cap. I think the original cap had wings and one wing had a hole to wire lock it. The block had a little winged plug that could be removed with a "H" or "M" style hand crank. The W4 hank crank has a different end, much bigger to fit over crankshaft end. Hugh
  5. Some 300s have two systems. If you have a pump that is driven off of the front of the crankshaft the tank can be in the loader frame. Follow the large diameter hose back to the tank, there should be a filter housing between the tank and the pump. If your loader runs off of the pump between the timing gears and the distributor, the tank is under the seat. I sold mine a few years ago but i think the level plug is on the left side near the bracket for the fast hitch cylinder. There should be a plug on top the the tank in front of the seat to fill it Hugh.
  6. Not to knock anything Mr. Yeager did as he was brilliant with mechanical things and had a knack for how far he could push things. You see it less now but they used to always say "in level flight". There was a pilot that was one of only a few to get into the air during the Pearl Harbor attack, that spent the whole war in the Pacific. George Welch. He was obviously in the Air Corps before the war to be there that day. After the war he worked for North American Aviation testing the new planes they were developing. He broke the sound barrier in a dive, not level flight, just a few days before Mr. Yeager's accomplishment. There is a lot of evidence that it happened with sonic booms ect. but it was not sanctioned and the brand New Air Force, (was Army Air Corps then Army Air Forces during the war) and Bell aircraft were very mad that they were one upped. He did it in one of the proto type F86 Sabers. He lost his life a few years later test flying one of the proto type F100 Super Sabers. The vertical tail broke off and he survived the incident but passed away a few days later from his injuries. Ironically Chuck Yeager was flying one of the chase planes, (an F86) on that flight. Again no knock on Yeager but never hear about George Welch. I sure miss Randy Shon's posts on aviation threads. Hugh
  7. I Had to replace the drive on my MD, same engine as your TD6. I had trouble with it sticking in the none drive position. After several one start and take it out to free it up. I freed up the drive with a punch and hammer, then rolled the drive forward on the shaft and ground the edge of the gear where it seats against the shaft with a Dremel tool. There is a sharp edge that gets stuck on the shaft. Hard to describe, I didn't take pics sorry. Hugh
  8. Sorry that this took awhile. These are SKF (C/R)? numbers I think I bought them at the local NAPA. Rear axel is 33033, you can get the axel shaft out if you remove the PTO to get the bolt out of the bull gear. If you want to change the brake shaft bull pinion seals you either have to remove the brake drum and pry them out while on the tractor or remove the transmission cover and remove the bull gear. The originals were a two lip seal and a bit of a pain to remove. So I use two single lip on each side when replacing. That # is 23184. The brake & clutch pedal shaft seal, one for each side is # 11171. I had to remove the axel and wheel in one piece to push the wheel off of the axel, in a press. Do not push the wheel off by using the seal ring, push the wheel separately . The push the seal ring but not the seal cover!! It will come with the ring. I seam to remember a pin in the axel shaft and a groove in the seal ring to stop it from turning. Good Luck!! Hugh
  9. Try your old condenser again. The new ones are not as good, easy cheap thing to try. Hugh
  10. On my brothers H the sleeve that the throw out bearing slides on had a ridge worn in it so when the pedal was released the bearing would hang up on the ridge. The sleeve is made out of something soft like pewter. I had a spare from a salvage yard and that is all it needed. Hugh
  11. Before turning the engine over if it has been sitting a long time, remove the valve cover and bump each valve with the end of a hammer handle to be sure a valve isn't stuck. The S182 farm truck I bought from my uncles action had two stuck valves on the BD308 and them trying to get it going they destroyed two hard to find push rods. On the MD the stating valves could be stuck also. If you force the switch over lever you may break the cast iron stands that hold the starting valve operating shaft on top of the head. Hugh
  12. I chased a similar problem on my 1957 IH S182 with a BD308. And a 1951 Mack A40 mixer truck with a flat head 6 cylinder 377. After fuel pumps and a oil cooler to try to stop any vaper lock and a couple of different coils what fixed it was replacing the condenser. Even though they were fairly new. Both trucks would run fine for about ten minutes then start bucking under load but would idle fine. Good Luck! Hugh
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