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About mudmakerhf

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/25/1951

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  • Location
    Farmington Minnesota
  • Interests
    IHC Tractors and Trucks

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  1. My Super WD9 that is the same design but larger had an issue with hard starting. Turned out that when the throttle lever was in the full shut off position the fuel lever on the pump was not all the way off. Put the throttle lever to off and pull the pin on the linkage at the pump and see if you can move the pump lever farther toward off. It doesn't take much fuel in the cylinders to "kill" the gas. Adjust linkage as needed. Hugh
  2. I changed out a light bulb in my daughters Chamberland garage door opener with a screw in LED bulb and the transmitters no longer worked. I tried to reprogram them and it didn't help. I put a rough service incandescent light back in and everything has worked fine since. It was just a LED bulb we got at Menard's though. Hugh
  3. The white on the two tone IHC trucks in the '50s is called Magnolia White.
  4. Sorry for your frustration! The valve cover does not come off hard. Remove the air cleaner pipe then the cover and see if any valves dropped. If you get it back to turning over and get smoke on gas mode take the pin out of the throttle lever on the pump and move the throttle lever on the dash to slow shut off position. Holding the pump lever full forward the pin holes should align. My SWD9 was not shutting the diesel off fully and made starting hard. Good luck!! Hugh
  5. I chased a similar problem on my 1957 IH S182 with a BD308. And a 1951 Mack A40 mixer truck with a flat head 6 cylinder 377. After fuel pumps and a oil cooler to try to stop any vaper lock and a couple of different coils what fixed it was replacing the condenser. Even though they were fairly new. Both trucks would run fine for about ten minutes then start bucking under load but would idle fine. Good Luck! Hugh
  6. If you are looking from behind the dist. towards the front of the tractor the rotor should turn clockwise. firing order is 1 3 4 2. Hugh
  7. To time an "H" with a battery ignition, you are correct to turn the engine on the #1 compression stroke to the first of the two notches that are close together. I use an ohm meter across the points and retard the timing, turn the dist.body the same direction as the rotor turns until the points are closed. The manual says to use the ammeter on the tractor but my neck is not that long. When you are on the timing mark and the points are closed, advance the timing ( turn the body opposite of the way the rotor turns) until the points just open and then tighten the locking bolt. Then set the valves on the #1 cylinder. turn the engine 1/2 turn. You can use the ohm meter across the points to be right on the #3 cylinder top dead center. Set the valves on #3 then bring it back up on the timing mark (1/2) turn and set #4 valves. Another half turn with the ohm meter on the points and do the valves on #2. Of coarse you can make a mark the pulley when #3 is TDC so you don't have to use the ohm meter on #2. Hugh
  8. What I have found on several H4 mags is the wire that runs from the points through the aluminum casting up to the condenser. It just gets old and the insulation goes bad and if you roll it between your fingers the insulation falls off and the wire is green inside. You will have to crimp one end on after you push it through the hole. Its best if you can find a "flag" crimp terminal. Hugh
  9. Obstruction in fuel flow, could be inline filter or the main jet in the carb is plugged. Do the easy thing first, take the line off of the carb and see what kind of flow from the tank.
  10. I have a friend with a small airplane, Camp, and he was having trouble with getting the fuel out of one of his wing tanks. I was helping him with his Annual inspection when he told me that and we ran a wire through the vent tube. Mud wasp nest in there. Now running a wire through the tank vents is part of the annual. Hugh
  11. Neighbor back in the late '60s was a rural route mail delivery man. He had a 1968? Right hand drive Scout ll that he bought from my uncle that had the local IHC and Oldsmobile franchises. So you must have been able to order them from IHC that way. Over the years I have seen several small Jeep SUVs, so they must be able to be ordered right hand drive. Hugh
  12. Bent push rods would be easy to check. If you have some with excessive gap, the push rod could be bent. I don't remember which manual I saw it in, but the H & M s that had the two marks on the front pulley. The first mark was TDC for #1 & #4 and the second mark set on the pointer is when cylinder #1 just fired and #4 is on the top of the exhaust stroke and starting down on the intake stroke there should just be zero gap on the intake valve (?) if the lash is set correctly. I think that is to check the valve timing. The single mark part way around is to line up the grease zerk on the bottom of the flywheel to grease the pilot bearing. Hugh
  13. Moog 861 Advance auto parts about $6.00. I know some of the early ones were different.
  14. The St. Paul district building is on the South West quadrant of University Ave and Highway 280. Almost across the street from Hubbard broadcasting, Channel 5 and several radio stations. Not very far to the West is the county line which is the border between St Paul and Minneapolis. It has been repurposed and is now a high end office building, Engineers and lawyers office. Dark brown with red trim around the doors and windows. Hugh
  15. I think they were the old water transfer decals. The paint is better underneath where they have flaked off. White with the black outline. Hugh
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