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About mudmakerhf

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/25/1951

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  • Location
    Farmington Minnesota
  • Interests
    IHC Tractors and Trucks
  1. Road trip to Minneapolis.

    The St. Paul district building is on the South West quadrant of University Ave and Highway 280. Almost across the street from Hubbard broadcasting, Channel 5 and several radio stations. Not very far to the West is the county line which is the border between St Paul and Minneapolis. It has been repurposed and is now a high end office building, Engineers and lawyers office. Dark brown with red trim around the doors and windows. Hugh
  2. Custom decals

    I think they were the old water transfer decals. The paint is better underneath where they have flaked off. White with the black outline. Hugh
  3. Custom decals

    Here is a before picture. I have some after pictures around but I think they are on a floppy disc and this computer doesn't have a floppy drive
  4. Custom decals

    Thank you, I'm glad you found a picture of what the "U4" decals look like and where they go. I wish I had picture of a U264 a restored for a friend a few years ago. That had the old decals still visible and they were vertical on the hood like your picture. Hugh

    Constant Positive Airway pressure. Does not add oxygen but is a little fan with a filter, hose and mask with head gear to keep air pressure in your throat to keep the airway open. I'm on my 4th machine. It was Thanksgiving weekend of 1991 when I got my 1st one. The last two have a humidifier I would be dead a long time ago without it. Hugh
  6. Heated shop condensation

    Where I work we have built a few Insulated concrete form buildings for ready mix and concrete pump trucks. "ICF" forms are Styrofoam forms inside and out, with what width concrete you need between. Those buildings were 8" of concrete with 16' high walls. The 12' high wall building I build at home is 6" of concrete. All with heated floors. I think the concrete takes a year or so the dry. The 1st year in the Burnsville pump shop we actually had a fog at about 4' above the floor. After a year or so they were fine. I wash in my building almost every week and the moisture is fine now. Hugh
  7. Sleeve and block damage

    If you do not have a crack in the block, but think you have some wear gaps under the broken pieces, LOCK TIGHT makes a sleeve backer product.
  8. Custom decals

    I painted my U4 even though I am missing several clutch parts. IH used the Rockford clutch line and the U4 uses a SAE #4. If someone knows of a source for these parts please post. Hugh
  9. Custom decals

    Maple Hunter site, International Harvester, Misc., page 2 bottom left. 14 1/2" White INTERNATIONAL with black outline. Item # VI1001B. $6.00 each. I bought a vinyl cut set from them for the W4 I just painted, and gave one of the "W4" in circle to a guy I know that has a decal machine and he found a U and 4 in one of the machine standard fonts that looks close and says he will make a pair for me. I haven't seen a picture of a U4 with the circle decals where the "H" or "W4" on the respective machines but mine will have them. The W4 hood is longer between the back of the hood and the bend in the bead where the circles go, 26 1/2" and the "McCormick" decal is 22 1/8". The "U4" is 19 1/4" long so I think the 14 1/2" should look correct. At one time I thought You could buy individual decals for the oil filter and air cleaner, and I thought it was Binder Books but they do not show them on their web site. I was able to scrounge some from some old decal sets I had. Your machine has the short oil filter so you need the small rectangular oil filter decal. The older machines with the tall filter use the larger "Purolator" decal. If someone finds where individual decals are available please post. Good Luck!! Hugh
  10. What is it...

    Back to the device at the start of this thread. If the outside threads are 9/16 fine it may be a H4 magneto impulse coupling puller. The inside should be a large enough bore for the mag shaft to fit in and the inside tread for a push bolt. Remove the nut, thread is device in, and run the inside bolt down. I would like to have one. I have to barrow a buddies. Hugh
  11. W4 Cast Wheel Removal

    All of that heat will do a number on your paint. After you get the wheel off of the axle there is very little to get a hold of on the seal ring and the bearing is recessed into the axle housing so nothing for a puller to grab. It can be cut off but there will more than likely be slag blown into the housing. (The seal must be changed from the inside of the cap.) The ring has to come off to get the cap off. I tried welding two 5/8" fine thread nuts to the ring and used a good sized slide hammer with no success. I miss spoke in the above post. The second push can be against the bearing. The ring is tall enough that it will not push on the cap and break it. There is a pin in the ring that engages a spline on the shaft so it doesn't spin. My recommendation is remove the PTO, it is easy to get back in. Hugh
  12. W4 Cast Wheel Removal

    I did a W4 last year. I drained the transmission oil. Then removed the PTO. you can set the brakes or block the wheels and remove the bolt and washer that holds the bull gear on the axle inside of the transmission. Put a small wedge, (like for adjusting a wood door frame) under the bull gear because it will drop just a little. Remove the four bolts out on the axle cap and the axle with outside bearing and seals should pull out with little difficulty. Take it to a machine shop that has a press but remove the wheel with one push. Then block under the ring that the seal rides on for the second push. Do not try to do it in one push or the ring may get distorted. If you need to replace the inside axle bearing the axle housing can be removed but it is a lot lighter and easy to handle with the axe and wheel out of it. Hugh
  13. Update 300 U oil high on the dip stick + hrs

    When you have the distributor off and change the points and condenser be sure the advance weights and springs are not stuck, not very likely with that much oil in there but a good thing to check out while it is apart. After the dist. is back on before you turn over the engine you should static time the dist. Put a ohm meter lead on the wire post that goes to the coil and the other lead on the dist. body. Loosen the small bolt on the clamp between the dist. drive unit and dist. body and rotate the dist body clockwise (retarding) from the rotor side until you have a circuit. Then turn it counter clockwise, advance, until the circuit just opens and tighten the clamp. Be sure that the coil has the correct polarity. If the battery is positive ground, the points wire should go to the positive post of the coil. I've seen several tractors that were converted to 12v alternator w negative ground where they added a resistor to drop the voltage to the dist. and not change the coil polarity. Hugh
  14. Update 300 U oil high on the dip stick + hrs

    I just did this on my 300U. Before you pull the distributor and hydraulic pump be sure to set the engine on TDC on #1 cylinder. The timing marks on the 300u are on the right side of the engine front, opposite of the H and M. And you want to be on the last mark on the pulley as it passes the pointer. The first ones are advance markings. Find the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap and mark that tower on the dist. were the cap meets the dist. body. Then remove the cap and turn the engine over until the rotor points to your mark on the dist. body and the front pulley TDC mark is at the pointer. That makes it much easier to time going back together. The parts book shows two different pumps and IHC didn't have the seals. Mine had C/R 8844 seals on both sides. I Think, I will have to verify. It wasn't a perfect fit on the distributor side, but that is as close of a size I could find and it seams to work. On the dist. side there is a coupling that has a counter sink style screw in the center, then it pulls straight off of the shaft. I had a lot of trouble getting that pulled and I had to tack weld a 5/8" fine tread nut on it and use my slide hammer. Then I did a lot of filing to get it to side back on without hammering. There is a splined shaft with a tee on the end to engage the coupling on the pump to drive the dist. This will fall out easily but when you have the dist out you want to clean that out and put in new points and condenser ect. and it is easy to figure out how to time that shaft to the rotor. good luck!! Hugh
  15. Farmall H Carberator

    There is one passage that is easy to miss. When you take the main nozzle out there is a passage that runs vertically from just inside of the casting almost under the screw that holds the nozzle, up to the idle jet on the top of the bottom casting. Hugh