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ole 815

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Everything posted by ole 815

  1. I powerwashed chassis up good when I tackled the job of pulling starter back off to replace fuel lines. I didn't have that luxury pullin off the heavy, grimey, oily bad starter. Had to tackle that job near grain bins on the gravel...fun ...like you said
  2. No, jus got them re routed so there is more slack and can get access to them more easily. No way that was possible to do with starter in way,especially the 5 amp one. Didnt even know that one existed, till I cleaned up the area a bit after starter was off and was replacing fuel line. New starter is physically smaller than oem starter. That helps alot!
  3. Thought I would share this. Might save you some grief and get you going sometime. I've had my semi not start before. Few years back, would jus crank over but wouldn't start. Figured out it had some fuses hanging in a harness by the starter solenoid. One of them was blown. Replaced and ....tadaaa...it started. I'm calling them ECM fuses right or wrong?? Anyway, it won't run with out them...lol They're not very easy to see, or even know they are there! Fast forward to a few weeks ago, starter took a crap. Replaced it, noticed fuel line was leaking that can only be replaced while starter is off. Didnt have time then, had to get corn unloaded and to town. Semi died coming home, no warning. Hmmmm crank but no start. Checked those ECM fuses, were good, but wiggled wires. It started! Pulled starter again to replace fuel line. I found a bad wire in that ECM fuse harness plug. It was laying on fuel line fitting, guessing that is why fuse blew few years back. And thinking had something to do why it died other day. Was only a couple strands of the 12 guage wire left. There is actually 3 fuse holders. Found one that was hidden,and only seen with starter off. 2 with 15 amp, the one closest to clutch housing is a 5 amp. Got the wiring routed better now and the fuse holders are more accessible now. Hopefully all is good now. Got lucky and stumbled across an issue replacing fuel line that would have turned into a nightmare to find that bad wire. Few pics for ya Red arrows- fuse holders Yellow arrow- bad wire that was laying on fuel line fitting on ECM Cooling Plate
  4. Serial #9533 on Steffes Auction Aug-11-2022 Mason City IA.
  5. By golly it appears I am!! Good catch๐Ÿ˜„
  6. Saw this : Ser# 14095 Sold on Jacob Auctions $35000 CAD
  7. Here in north central Iowa 90% + beans get rolled either after planted, before planted, or after they come up. You see rollers around here a bunch
  8. Putting the lever on. It keeps it in place.
  9. 1660 IH Engine Removal Think I took the fan and shroud off. Engine slid forward enough. Then turned it sideways as it came out the back. You can see I took the railing off on the right side.
  10. Thanks for the replies. I hope I don't lose another remote. I will update when I get time to work on it. Ground is shaping up fast. Planters are rolling!
  11. Last fall noticed when I tried to fold disk wing, quit working. Figured hose coupler or something. #3 remote Fast forward till today. (10th season with this tractor planter combo)#3 Can't get enough flow to run bulk fill fan on 1250 planter. Need 3000 rpm, will only do 2400rpm flow knob adjusted full flow. For some reason won't work to have that on #1 to run bulk fill. When you do it won't let #2 raise planter. Got it to work with bulk fill #2 Planter raise #1 Am I right thinking #3 has an issue in remote valve under cab?
  12. I only use the jumper wire on solenoid if it goes bad, to get you by till you can replace. It's laying on floor in pic Nothing has been added recently electrically. The extra red wire on solenoid feeds my Raven monitor. The other wire with fuse that's not hooked up is for light bar. Had tractor for 40years. Has had those couple extra wires I mentioned for 15 years. It was prolly 8-10 years ago Ag Express repaired Tach. Like mentioned, might be internal issue with tach.
  13. Like I posted, 1980 model, mine doesn't have those oil pressure switches.
  14. Been around these tractors for 40 years, and if I've fixed this issue before must have CRS. Don't remember what causes this. Shut tractor off, Turn key off, digital lit 0's dim but stay on. 1980 model. Doesnt have oil pressure sensors beside Engine oil filter base. I had to unplug white fuse holder to shut tach off. Hmmmm, not sure the culprit on this. Thanks Mark Notice in my photo. I keep a jumper wire handy for when the solenoid goes bad....
  15. Clay, I also extended the rod (1.5") for the Parking brake manual release. Just in case, if needed to use that special tool furnished to pump up and release parking brake. It's under floor mat, access hole. Pic of rod assembly
  16. Its a 2002 model. 118000 serial # Here is a pic of me putting the Priority Valve back in after going thru it and checking some stuff. Was easy to get to it, and remove and install, with the extra clearance.
  17. Nice video of some great lookin stuff https://youtu.be/no6nrCZJLZI
  18. Thought I would bring this thread to top and show what I found with my MX240 that acted same as original post. Use remote and after, you could still hear pump stroked and pressure for most way across field like I mentioned in an above post. Found 2 things. Bleed Orifice partially blocked and oring on pump that seals compensator to swash plate tube was worn thin. Thanks SDman! You can't find orings and gskts in MX240 parts, but you need to look in early Magnum like 7140. Pics for you Was google searching for some other stuff for mx240. This thread popped up. Thought I would reply again with what fixed mine. It will surely help somebody google searching for a fix for their tractor๐Ÿ‘
  19. Common issue on the first MX Magnums are how tight the hoses are and rub each other at front bottom of cab where they travel under and connect to tubes. Especially the power steering hoses that supply and return from the Handpump. Didn't know one of them was cutting into the oil cooler hose/tube assembly......until it was too late, ruined power steering hose. Also ruined the oil cooler hose that is part of a hose/tube assembly that is probably one of the most time consuming to get to and replace.(Pic of new and old) From advice of others that have done it. I spaced up the cab. I went up 1 1/2". One hockey puck and 1/2" steel plate. Makes it waaaay better now for clearancing hoses at front lower part of cab. I have it now, that none rub on each other. It was pretty much impossible to make the steering supply lines and the cooler hose to clear each other. They laid right on each other and aren't wrapped from factory. Arrrrrrg..... well I take that back. They rub so hard, they wore thru the plastic loom and then hoses ate each other right thru. I used metric threaded rod to make a bolt that would work. Fastenal part # in pic. 1 piece is long enough to make make 4 bolts. Cut at 9 1/2 " , weld nut on one end makes it 9" long verses the original 7 1/2" bolt. Drill hole in hockey puck, and punched a 5/8" hole in a 3ร—3 plate. Need plate above hockey puck for bushing that goes thru cab channel to tighten against. The original plate that is still used under hockey puck, is metric threaded, that's why you need metric rod so you can still tighten down original cab isolators. I didn't go 2" because it was going to be more of an issue with a couple things. But I still have way more room and it works great! Even getting cab air filter out, and fuel tanks in and out from mountings. Only way to get the front cab mounts apart to replace bolts is you have to remove fuel tanks. So that is the most work in spacing up the cab. That tube assembly can be sent in and fixed for $450 less than new, or can get whole new assembly for $335 less than CaseIH , from New Hydraulics in Oshkosh Wi. Part# 418919A2 New Hydraulics doesn't show the other hose/tube assembly (return) under cab 414576A2 but I'm sure they could make you one if they had your old one. These hose/tube assemblies are for tractor serial #'s with oil cooler cold weather safety bypass valve (last pic shows what it looks like, located under air cleaner) Few pics for ya. ๐Ÿ˜‰ Yep, I replaced every hose at front of cab, prolly never have to do it again now that I can get to them, plus I did it right๐Ÿ˜„
  20. If it has the double clutch feel, when ta lever ahead, yes the dump valve is working. That means it dumped pressure when the clutch was down, and locking up the ta after the engine clutch starts moving the tractor. It should lock up(light go out) jus before tractor starts to move. You didn't include that info in original post. If you didn't back off the tranny brake before you started adjusting. Or take pin out. It is pushing extremely hard more than likely because of the old clutch adjustments. That's what snoshoe is referring to below. Fix the light....or put gauge in to set it for now. Then fixxxx the light. You can ruin a rear-end not knowing that you didn't have lube......
  21. Take sending unit out and install a oil pressure gauge. Grease gun hose works good to get screwed in jus hand tight. 20 psi or so give or take . Run it and operate. See what ya got and if it dumps pressure. Can you see that the linkage is straddling that pin correctly, in end of dump valve spool and it is actually pulling spool out as it should when clutch is pushed down?
  22. I called LTI tools. Can't by direct. Nice gal on phone suggested Tool Topia is a good online source to buy. Called them and all the shock-it sets I inquired about are out of stock at moment but hopefully they show up later this month.
  23. I bought some hockey pucks like you mentioned before (think that was you) Will have to redo cab mount bolt with metric ready bolt which I got also. We'll see if I got time to finish that part of project. I'm replacing all the hoses on front of cab that go under. And a few others under cab.
  24. This works great for those hard to reach and hard to get broke loose fittings. Couldn't really get at good angle with two wrenches to break it loose. Now I need to get a longer bit, one that will reach way in, to get at harder to reach fittings. Seen video of mechanic use one, yep, awesome ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘. Jus a few hits on nut flange to get it to budge a little in right direction. I'm sure a few of you have done this, and a few can tell what I'm working on!
  25. It should come apart without having to pull Ta housing off of rear end. Have replaced pto stub shafts when doing engine clutch jobs. You need to get the Pto shaft slid forward, and off of the input shaft first. The back brg needs to come off pto stub shaft Been few years. Somebody chime in Edit. I'm thinking the coupler on back end of input shaft is stuck on the input. Slide hammer on input shaft. Keep track of which way that coupler is on. When it comes apart. #40 Don't want to wreck bearing that is catching on that lower gear. Don't want all the rollers ending up down below! I would put the bearing retainer back on to hold the pto stub shaft and bearing in place. The input shaft will slide out and thru the pto stub shaft......I think๐Ÿค” . Been few years......the coupler won't fit thru it.
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