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Red Tech

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Posts posted by Red Tech

  1. 13 hours ago, Mathew Greenwood said:

    Oh good God. It doesn't matter what social media platform or forum I'm on, there's always that one guy trolling the internet trying to start an argument because they have nothing better to do.

    Well sir I have better things to do than to argue with you, you're not worth my time and I'm not going to give you the satisfaction 


    I think that you are trolling your own topic.  You came to us asking for help.  Farmall Doctor took time out of his day to give you some very sound advice, including the specs for the flywheel step.  Instead of being appreciative, you went out of your way to be antagonistic.  It is like J-Mech reincarnated. 

    Good luck on getting help on your future posts!

    PS:  The way I see it, you have two choices.  You can suck it up and apologize to the community and be welcomed back in good standing because this group is very forgiving, or you can double-down and attack me or others -- your choice. 

    I honestly would like to see you continue on this forum because I am sure that you have knowledge which others of us can benefit from, and vice-versa.

    Have a great day! (I mean it sincerely)

    Red Tech

    • Like 7
  2. I have a lot of funny looking wrenches that I have heated and bent to serve a specific purpose.  I haven't yet figured out how to make one for the following purpose:

    I am trying to remove the top left 1/2" split bolt from an 86 series tractor without removing the starter.

    Have any of you figured out a way to remove it without removing the starter?

    I am just doing a clutch job, so I don't need to remove the starter unless absolutely necessary.

    Thanks, Red Tech

  3. You may have solved your problem by blowing out that check valve under the tank.

    At full load, there isn't as much excess fuel being returned to the tank and thus it is not building up backpressure on the pump.

    At light load, too much fuel is trying to come through a partially plugged check valve, which causes backpressure to build in the pump and then it will run terrible.

    If it is a defective check valve below the tank, remove it and take out the ball and spring, then install a standpipe onto the fitting to keep fuel from leaking out when splitting the tractor, or for any other reason in the future.  I believe a new check valve is over $300 dollars.  That pump does not need the check valve for the tractor to run perfectly.

    • Like 1
  4. I cleaned off any bits of screen from the shoulder of the orifice. I reshaped the screen so it again fit on the shoulder.   I then took it to a radiator shop to have it brazed / soldered?

    He did a perfect job!  It looked like new. 

  5. Last year while touring in north central Minnesota, I came across this silo.  I was impressed by the craftmanship that went into building this silo, and the fact that it looks in such good condition so many years later



    • Like 2
  6. Wow!  That video made me realize how fortunate I am.  There was a large, horizontal head-level compressor in the shop that we bought many years ago.  The pressure cut-off was set at 130 psi.  The tag on the compressor showed that it was made in 1944.  When the compressor was about 45 years old, it developed a pin hole on the bottom and started leaking.  Being a resourceful person, I drilled a small hole where it was leaking, threaded it, and installed a small screw with a gasket.  It held for several years until I finally replaced the tank about 6 years later when other leaks developed.  I just never thought of it as a danger. Duh!

    Funny thing is, that compressor was regularly inspected by The Dept of Labor and Commerce.   Although the screw was quite visible, the inspector apparently never noticed the screw and I never tried to hide it because I thought of it as just a normal repair.  As the saying goes " if you are going to do something stupid, you better be lucky".

  7. I haven't seen any postings by Pete23 for a year or so.  I have always admired his knowledge and I considered it the "final word" on any topic that I was seeking an answer to.

    Does anybody here know anything about him?


  8. The brakes are disengaged by hydraulic pressure.  Spring pressure engages them when the hydraulic pressure to them is shut off.

    Either you have collapsed brake springs, or you are bleeding hydraulic pressure to the brakes even after you disengage the pto.

    Try shutting off the tractor and then turn the pto with a wrench to see how much the spring-loaded brakes are holding.

  9. 2 hours ago, SDman said:

    CaseIH/CNH still does offer a Low Ash 30W engine oil for "legacy engines" as they refer to older engines. Its a Pennzoil-branded oil, though. Don't think it was on here, but on one of the IH Facebook pages, somebody had the specs. between it and the old CNH/Viscosity Low Ash oil...the Pennzoil oil was actually lower in ash content. 

    This is exactly the information that I am looking for; thank you SD man.  Do you happen to know the part number of it so that I can order it from our local IH dealer, or do you know the Pennzoil number of it?

  10. I assume that you are referring to the shift kit that the High/Low/Reverse shift lever hooks to. Last week I installed the shift kit, the bushing inside the hollow shaft that the shift levers rotate on, and the vertical shaft and neutral shift plate that hooks to the linkage that goes to the range cover. 

    I got all of the parts from A&I and it was a disaster!!   The ID of the bushing that goes into the hollow shaft was too small so I had to have it honed.  The vertical shaft, and the lower plate that engages into the park lock was mis-timed so I had to cut the top off of the vertical shaft and weld it back on after positioning it correctly so the little adjustable turnbuckle could be hooked up. 

    After I got that all reinstalled for the 2nd time, I found that I could not shift the linkage all of the way into high.  Further inspection revealed that the center shift collar that connects to the High/Low/reverse shift lever,AND the shift collar that is used for shifting into reverse were both make incorrectly so I had to do some serious grinding on them to make them work.   AND, in addition to all of the above, I had to grind on the casting of the shift console because the arm on the shift collar that is used for reverse was a little out of time so it would hit the casting that holds the right-hand temp/fuel gauge plate. 

    if I could give this junk a negative 5 Stars, I would.

    The previous kit that I had installed, I had gotten from Hy-Capacity and it fit great — lesson learned. 

    I hope this long text helps someone to avoid all the grief and wasted labor that I incurred. 

  11. I went to the Case IH dealer a couple of days ago to pick up a pail of IH Low Ash #30 oil for my 560 gas tractor.  I have had this tractor for 25 years and have only used the genuine IH oil in it.  I have never had the head off of it since I have owned it, although I only put on about 40 hours a year. 

    I was told that it is no longer available and they don’t know of a comparable alternative which meets the specs of having no more than .5 ash content. 

    I am now very concerned about developing valve troubles if I use any of the higher ash content oils. Have any of you Forum members actually found an alternative that meets the IH low ash specs?  

    Red Tech. 

  12. I just re-bent the tabs in the fuel tank and on the cap to match together.  I would have preferred to replace the cap, but the farmer needed the tractor back in a hurry.

    He had brought the tractor in for several other repairs, but the loose fuel cap was an afterthought.

  13. Like most things that I have learned, I remember them best when I do them wrong the 1st time.

    Maybe all of you know this, but in case you don't, the best way to remove the range transmission cover on the 706-1206 is with it shifted into high range; any other position will lift the reverse shift shaft out of the reverse shift fork.  If that happens, you risk having the small 1/2 moon key fall into the transmission.

    I work on these so seldom, that it is easy to forget.

    Red Tech




  14. We put on a few harnesses years ago when they were advertised as a replacement for the Sentry, rather than a “test harness”. 

    No transmission failures so far.  My customers still own and regularly use the tractors. One 5088 has had the bypass harness on it since 1997 (24 year) YMMV. 

  15. Thank you all for your replies to my question as to if it is still necessary to retorque head gaskets.  I had hoped that there would have been improvements in head gaskets in the last 40 years that would have made retorquing unnecessary.  Based on your experience, apparently I should still retorque head gaskets.

    I put a Fel-Pro gasket set in a 706 gas tractor.  After running the tractor for a while to warm up the engine, I tried the head bolts that were outside of the valve cover; they did not move.  I was thinking that those under the valve cover would be the same, but maybe not.  I was trying to avoid the hassle of taking the valve cover off.

    Because the owner lives 40 miles away, having him bring the tractor back to have the head retorqued after he has put some hours on it, is really not an option, although that would be ideal.

    I am just finishing doing some other work on the tractor, so I guess that I better warm it up again and pull the valve cover just to be sure.  😞

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