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Everything posted by Charlieu

  1. I don't have a book in front of me at the moment but I'm quite sure it's .027 with a warm engine. International revised the temperature instructions back in the late 60's. Everything is warm. You can touch the engine with your bare hand and not burn your self. Like at room temperature.
  2. Charlieu

    IH part

    Those are replacement bolts for the rear wheel clamp that goes around the axle. If you are planning on running clamp on duals you will need them as those bolts will break from the added stress.
  3. Pull the intake manifold and valve cover, and watch the valves and make sure that they all are moving while cranking the engine over with the starter. Removing the manifold makes it possible to remove the valve cover much easier. Using a flat prybar through the hole on the right side of the bell housing turn the engine so the valves for cylinder # 6 are in overlap (Exhaust valve closing and intake valve opening). Now line up the pointer with TDC mark on the flywheel (Make sure you are turning the flywheel counterclockwize CCW when viewed from the rear) with the pointer. When cylinder 6 is on overlap, cylinder # 1 is on compression stroke. Now remove the small cover on the side of the injection pump ( the little cover that is held on with 2 small screws) and check if the two timing lines are aligned with each other. With the valve cover removed you can also check the valve lash (0.027). This will tell you if the pump is in time, that all valve are moving and that the valve lash is correct. If ever thing checks out, it time to remove the cylinder head.
  4. Here is a picture of a transmission stand that I manufacture for holding the rear housing of tractors. The stand in the picture is from a Farmall 450 that I parted out a few years back. I have used this same stand on a Farmall C, H, M, 350, 560 and a 1256 that we did a TA job on this past winter. It just takes a few different attachments to make is fit.
  5. Install one of each and run your own test.
  6. I have a rebuilt pump on my shelf from Hy-Capacity. I would be interested in selling. It's been there for a couple years. call me 507-four three eight-8172 charlie
  7. I'm thinking that the voltage regulator on a 656 was under the sheet metal just in front of the gear shifter.
  8. There are three drain plugs. one at rear of transmission, one at front of transmission facing forward and the one under the TA housing.
  9. My mother passed away from polio in 53, she was 31, and us kids got lots of shots at first and then the sugar cube for years.
  10. If there was a gap around o-ring #16 it's going to leak. Why are you afraid to cranking on them. I have never broke one off tightening it up. I stick a punch through two of the detent ball holes and tighten.
  11. You said that you did not shim the new TA , did you check it with a dial indicator while lifting the TA unit with a pry bar?
  12. How much free travel do you have now? You did not say anything about trying to adjust the free travel with the clevis where it is pinned to the pedal. That's where you adjust the free play (about 1 1/4 with out looking in a book).
  13. I remember seeing that Hy-Capacity has the garter spring installing tool. I went to their web site and looked up the hydraulics section for the 560 and there it was. Part # 8301281
  14. Here is a little math for all. Thinking about fuel delivery and timing, how many of us realize that at 2400 Engine RPM's each pistons is at TDC 40 times a second and fuel is being injected into each cylinder 20 times per second.
  15. Here are a few pictures of my 39 Farmall H
  16. My guess would be that the pump has an air (suction) leak. I had that problem with a char-lynn pump, replaced the seal behind the pulley and it fixed the problem.
  17. If anybody is looking for the distributor pump that turns the other direction like for the SMD and 2 cylinder JD tractors, I just happen to have a couple.
  18. Here are a few pictures of a Farmall M tractor that I have seen with the Behlen PS unit. I have located the pieces that lay on the bench that I plan on installing on my 1939 M someday. Notice that these PS units have the built-in oil revivor.
  19. The bolts that fasten the pressure plate to the flywheel are 1/2 grade 5 NC. I like hanging the PPA & clutch disk on the transmission shaft and install the bolts from the bottom after the engine is connected to the rear half. A 3/8 inch air ratchet makes for easy work.
  20. I have some used rear stud lights that I removed from some 815-915 combines that went to scraped, if you are interested.
  21. Well, I can help with an alternator kit on the 240-340 series of tractors. Last summer I had a customer bring a F-340 to my shop for me to designed a mounting bracket. After I had the 340 done I had another customer come to me with a F-240 and the same kit fit. I now have a kit that I sell for the 240-340 tractor. Give me a call in the morning 507-438-8172
  22. Tom, Something simple to try is position one of the injectors on the end of the fuel line so you can see the fuel when it is being sent to the injector nozzle. You want the injector hanging out in mid air. One safety note DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS OR FINGERS IN THE SPRAY FROM THE INJECTOR NOZZLE.
  23. Loss of lube pressure, FARMALL FIXER mention the brass lube baffle. If somebody would air test the TA (top jumper tube) with shop air pressure it will warp the lube baffle and then no lube pressure.
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