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    Austin, MN
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    Retired (2010) Ag Diesel Mechanics instructor from Riverland Community College

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Charlieu's Achievements

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  1. I don't have a book in front of me at the moment but I'm quite sure it's .027 with a warm engine. International revised the temperature instructions back in the late 60's. Everything is warm. You can touch the engine with your bare hand and not burn your self. Like at room temperature.
  2. Charlieu

    IH part

    Those are replacement bolts for the rear wheel clamp that goes around the axle. If you are planning on running clamp on duals you will need them as those bolts will break from the added stress.
  3. Pull the intake manifold and valve cover, and watch the valves and make sure that they all are moving while cranking the engine over with the starter. Removing the manifold makes it possible to remove the valve cover much easier. Using a flat prybar through the hole on the right side of the bell housing turn the engine so the valves for cylinder # 6 are in overlap (Exhaust valve closing and intake valve opening). Now line up the pointer with TDC mark on the flywheel (Make sure you are turning the flywheel counterclockwize CCW when viewed from the rear) with the pointer. When cylinder 6 is on overlap, cylinder # 1 is on compression stroke. Now remove the small cover on the side of the injection pump ( the little cover that is held on with 2 small screws) and check if the two timing lines are aligned with each other. With the valve cover removed you can also check the valve lash (0.027). This will tell you if the pump is in time, that all valve are moving and that the valve lash is correct. If ever thing checks out, it time to remove the cylinder head.
  4. Here is a picture of a transmission stand that I manufacture for holding the rear housing of tractors. The stand in the picture is from a Farmall 450 that I parted out a few years back. I have used this same stand on a Farmall C, H, M, 350, 560 and a 1256 that we did a TA job on this past winter. It just takes a few different attachments to make is fit.
  5. I have a rebuilt pump on my shelf from Hy-Capacity. I would be interested in selling. It's been there for a couple years. call me 507-four three eight-8172 charlie
  6. I'm thinking that the voltage regulator on a 656 was under the sheet metal just in front of the gear shifter.
  7. There are three drain plugs. one at rear of transmission, one at front of transmission facing forward and the one under the TA housing.
  8. If there was a gap around o-ring #16 it's going to leak. Why are you afraid to cranking on them. I have never broke one off tightening it up. I stick a punch through two of the detent ball holes and tighten.
  9. You said that you did not shim the new TA , did you check it with a dial indicator while lifting the TA unit with a pry bar?
  10. How much free travel do you have now? You did not say anything about trying to adjust the free travel with the clevis where it is pinned to the pedal. That's where you adjust the free play (about 1 1/4 with out looking in a book).
  11. I remember seeing that Hy-Capacity has the garter spring installing tool. I went to their web site and looked up the hydraulics section for the 560 and there it was. Part # 8301281
  12. Here is a little math for all. Thinking about fuel delivery and timing, how many of us realize that at 2400 Engine RPM's each pistons is at TDC 40 times a second and fuel is being injected into each cylinder 20 times per second.
  13. Here are a few pictures of my 39 Farmall H
  14. My guess would be that the pump has an air (suction) leak. I had that problem with a char-lynn pump, replaced the seal behind the pulley and it fixed the problem.
  15. If anybody is looking for the distributor pump that turns the other direction like for the SMD and 2 cylinder JD tractors, I just happen to have a couple.
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