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Adam - NC

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About Adam - NC

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/16/1973

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  • Website URL
    https://www.facebook.com/AdamDavisWoodworking/

Profile Information

  • Location
    Shelby NC
  • Interests
    Allis Chalmers, Farmall, Pen Turning

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  1. Burch Store in Burlington NC specializes in the 140 type tractors, and they are proud of their parts. Bates corp is another good source for used and reproduction parts.
  2. ☹️I had an original Fire Chief Gasoline sign from the pump on my grandfather's farm. Dad sold it to some pickers who wandered through without checking with me.
  3. I bet I can find a worse one if that's a challenge...
  4. Brody is being negligent, not keeping ya'll up to date! We will probably add at least two more weights, when HE can afford them.
  5. I like the locking rod, we will have to consider that in addition to the bolted strap idea we had. Thanks!
  6. Agreed Matt, I filled it FULL when putting it together, it has pushed out a small amount and seems stable now. Yesterday at its hottest I saw two or three drops come out the overflow, not a gusher.
  7. Brody and I took turns mowing, ran the 240 for a couple of hours. Decided we could put the hood back on. She is back living under the shed, instead of scattered across the shop. He added more pics to our thread in the Projects forum.
  8. Parts arrived today, we think we know how they go. Primer before supper, paint after supper, put them on and see it it helps tomorrow.
  9. Bates had all 4 pieces in stock, shipped today, hopefully to arrive Friday, for $150 plus shipping. I wasted a day waiting on a NC parts yard to call me back, and another NC parts yard had it all in stock for $220.
  10. We need 11, 12, 15, & 16, if any of you fine people have a parts tractor laying around.
  11. Guess I owe you guys an update - We removed the hydraulic valves last week. i purchased a piece of 7/16 steel rod and a handful of nuts. We made new shorter rods to eliminate the two front remote valves. While we had the relief valve out we cleaned it and replaced the o-rings. I did not take the valve for the rear lift out, the steel lines bolt to the top of that valve an I didn't want to remove the rest of the sheet metal and gas tank to get to them. I'll have to do it sooner or later, that valve leaks enough to be annoying. Anyway, after putting it all back together, we hooked the finish mower up and tried to mow. The lift will only pick the mower up at 3/4 throttle or more. I'm guessing the pump is worn, and may be leaking a little into the crankcase. I wish there was an easy to use gauge port like on the 140 type hydraulic line assembly. The test port on the relief valve is impossible to access while it is on the tractor. Apparently I only took one picture the whole time. I did teach Brody how to make a bolt, I guess that counts for something. We used a tap and die set I inherited from my father-in-law.
  12. So, another thread about the farmall 240 that is slowly driving me crazy. We put the finish mower on it yesterday and mowed for an hour or so - yard mowing, not bush hogging - and it ran on up towards overheating - 200-220 or so. Never did boil the radiator over, we stopped before it got that hot. Here's the question, finally - we do not have the fan shroud, and we have not installed the hood / grill / side panels yet. I see in the parts drawing that there are supposed to be side baffles and the shroud. How big of an effect would this make on the cooling? I have not had the radiator tanked or cleaned. We have flushed it ourselves, and the antifreeze looked fairly good when we drained it in February to rebuild the engine, so I'm inclined to think the radiator might not be too cruddy internally.
  13. Post pics of this set up please - I haven't found it in the parts book yet.
  14. Actually 17 is there. I've never understood how it is supposed to work.
  15. I've got a feeling my linkage & valve isn't the original tele-depth set up. I agree with going through the relief valve and trying to use the existing valve for the rear lift. I like the idea of removing the two front valves just because they don't serve a purpose and leak. The hole under the seat being ragged or hand cut makes me wonder if this wasn't done by a dealer or farmer who got tired of the teledepth cable. These are the valves I have on the left side. Rear hitch it to the inside. How are you supposed to use the test plug on the relief valve? Do I have it installed upside down?
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