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Fred B

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  1. I found this original condition 1976 Spirit of 76 Cub Cadet mower earlier this year. Had it at the Temple, TX show this past weekend, photo 1. The second is a photo taken at home. I didn't get very good photos at the show.
  2. B is 2 row, A is 1 row. believe drive line same. I know of a fellow of this Temple show that years ago put an A, or C wide front axle on his B , looks factory.
  3. my dad used to tell a joke about the price of hogs, It seams that two brothers went into the hog business, one stole the hogs, one stole the feed, and when they sold them, they still lost money!!! 😆
  4. Looks like power steering, apply left brake, it turns left, apply right, it turns right.😁
  5. Try taking 5/8 lock washers and tap them on the auger flights, about every 14 inches, I have found it will move heads in milo.
  6. Gary, I was wondering if the above tool was to do with a split rim, from early auto or truck.?
  7. I think this is this correct, the Farmall C, super C, and all numbers up to include 404, were based on the "C" chassis, except for 300,340,350. the farmall H, super H,and all numbers 300, up to include 686, are based on the H, chassis, (with some provisions for wider pinion and bull gears?) except for 400, 450,560,660. numbers 300, 350, 460, may have been available, with a trainsmission driven pto, otherwise they were ipto.? all were an option. not to include 424,and up series.
  8. Looks like a Texas grape picker, you straddle the row of vines, set crates on top, the boom with the concave picker thingy picks the grapes and places them in the crates. 😄
  9. Move your lift pins, and top link down about 6-8". on the cutter. cut deck out for drive shaft. .
  10. https://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/video-packard-torsion-level-ide-how-it-works/ Found a diagram on the Packard.
  11. A guy in our town had a Packard Caribean if i'm remembering correctly, it had a starter moter under the frame with a link, frame to starter switch, to keep the auto level, also had torsion springs, he over rode the switch and would sit at a red lite next to the drive in hang out and make the car go up and down. this was well before the Californiains, with their crazy hydraulic things.
  12. Fred B

    1586 noise

    I would try pulling up on clutch pedal, it may be dry, and not returning all the way, or mabey a clutch finger not in line with the other 2.?
  13. Anson, Glad you made it home. Wishing you a speedy recovery and continued good health along with your wife. Oh, and Wrangler. Fred
  14. If you don't have #42 or 43 you may be able to weld some angle iron pieces to your vertical straps that are on the tractor and then bolt the 5/8" vertical straps to the angle irons. Try to get the bumpers as close to the center of the pull arms that you can. Remember if you use bolts, they can't have the heads showing on the bumper side. You may be able to use two vertical strap irons smaller than 5/8" and use the outside one to cover the bolt heads, or weld the bolts to the bumpers. Good luck.
  15. It's my thought that this is one of the things that turned people away from IH. If I'm thinking correctly the only thing that needs side sway on a tractor is a moldboard type plow. Go and look at an IH 706 or 806 with fasthitch. First take off all that mickey mouse so called stabilizer and throw it "innnn the dumpster" 😁 (to quote someone elses rant). Then take maybe a 5/8 x 4 x 18 flatiron; weld the head of a 1" bolt to the back side of the flatiron. Put it in the hole where pin #41 came out (refer to parts breakdown above). Weld (to the 5/8" vertical flatiron) a short flatiron with a hole in it to engage the bolt that holds on #43 at the bottom. This will make it look similar to the bumper blocks on a fasthitch tractor. Take a piece of flatiron and weld the head of a couple bolts to it to go on the draft arm (pull arm) (inside), with a strap of flat iron with 2 holes to hold this unit tight to the draft arm (outside). This will give you a no sway apparatus(bumper block). You can now put a shim behind the bumper on the draft arm. Make the bolts long enough to also put enough shim in there to go from category 1 to category 2. This should give you a no nonsense non-sway hitch. May have to use slightly longer bolts on that bottom hitch plate. Use your judgment here as to how long some of the plates may be and the thickness of the metal and bolt size. Some of the later tractors have a little square piece of metal at the front of the draft arms to keep them from swinging out too far into the tire. You may have to include something like this. Good luck. If you should happen to try it, let me know how it turns out. I've never made one of these but I've had it in my head for a long time.
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