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Sparky

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Everything posted by Sparky

  1. Same wet sleeve setup...so yes. The coolant filter isn't a cure all. Changing the coolant every now and then will do just as much good as the coolant filter will. Travis
  2. Hy-cap has the kit you want that has the tapered pin that fits in the axle, but still utilizes the old school pin style end on the cylinder. Travis
  3. Just to verify that it actually is the belt and not something else, gently spray the belt with soapy water while the engine is running. If the squeak goes away, you know it's a belt or pulley. Travis
  4. 9.5-15 11L-15 10.00-16 All pretty common....You can even go skinnier like 7.50-16 or so, but those sizes seem to be the most popular, even with 34's (even though some people will tell you they aren't). Nothing was a "factory" size...it was simply what the dealer or original owner ordered it with, so you're pretty much open to whatever you like. Travis
  5. Even my little armpit of Iowa has an Oreilly's, Napa, and Carquest...that Murray 59010 is readily available there. Travis
  6. Murray 59010 is a 30 foot roll of insulation tape. If you were close by, I'd sell you a few feet of it. Travis
  7. "Original Hy-Tran"......You probably should offer up some proof of what it actually is. Travis
  8. Those rear stands aren't as heavy as I'd like. They would work for holding the main center section of the rear housing after you've taken every thing off, but I don't trust them to holding up a rear end on an 86 series when doing a clutch job.... Travis
  9. The decal/stripe seems to be a bad attempt at a repaint while adding the late 86 series tri-stripe.... Travis
  10. Yep, like Dan said, it's a factory 4-post ROPS....those became the factory option around '75, if I remember correctly. Travis
  11. Tractorseats.com (K&M) or Hy-Capacity is where you want to buy your tractor seats. They are quality built. They will last. And they bolt right on. Travis
  12. Definitely get yourself an owners manual for your tractor....It will explain exactly what you need to mount weights properly. Travis
  13. I'm with J-Mech and CIHTECH as far as cleaning goes. I use the Roloc Bristle discs and the Super Scraper along with a good old putty knife and razor blade scraper to clean. Indian head/Wolf's head gasket shellac for some gaskets. Aviation form-a-gasket for some other gaskets. Grey RTV in some places where a gasket isn't used at all. Copper Coat for some head gaskets, Silver paint for some other head gaskets. Nothing at all for some other gaskets. Crisco All-Vegetable Shortening in a can for cylinder sleeve o-rings, and pretty much any other o-ring. Trust me on this one.... Experience will tell you when, where, and how much to use. Travis
  14. The black stripe argument gets going a lot on social media... Plain and simple, there is simply no cosmetic or physical change that proves whether a tractor is a "true" black stripe or not. There are definite serial number breaks that are listed in the parts manuals that can tell you whether a tractor is a true black stripe or not. After 40+ years, there has been a lot (A LOT) of things changed on any tractor...so you really can't tell if a tractor is an actual "true" black stripe just by those changes. Travis
  15. With the amount of reman injectors out there now, the letter on the injector tube doesn't make a difference if they aren't original injectors. Any reman injectors that I've put in are a mix 'n match of letters on the tube. The nozzle tip is the part that makes the difference. Travis
  16. There's a couple of them around this area with that early frame rail. One's a 1066 the other is a 966. Travis
  17. So many people take advantage of this program it's not even funny. I know of at least one person that has went through a salvage yard and wrote down serial #'s to get free gas caps. Travis
  18. The biggest block heater I've ever seen available for a 361-407 was 650 watt. Still not big enough. Most people put two in. On these engines your best best is to install a tank heater if you really need it to start when it's cold. Travis
  19. Remove your centerlink cover and inspect your draft control linkage. I'd suspect that the linkage has slipped around to the wrong side. Travis
  20. I already answered this on your facebook post...Anyway, since everything except the RPM works on the data center, trace the wires between the data center and rpm transducer. Test your RPM transducer if you can't find a problem in the wiring. Should be pretty easy... Also, once you get the RPM's to show, your pto speed will work, too. ? Travis
  21. Those digital hour meters are accurate.... Cable driven hour meters are only accurate at PTO speed... Travis
  22. It's pretty damn easy to change from a 3-pt to 2-pt and just change the position of the rockshaft arms.... and cheaper to do than replace all of your 2-pt equipment with 3-point equipment.... I love it when someone says a 66 series cannot have 86 series 3-point lift links...many of those were changed when someone traded their 66 series in on a 86 series. Neighbor of mine bought a new 986 and had his fast hitch from his 66 series that he traded in switched out with his new tractor... A lot of stuff has been changed around since these tractors were new 40-50 years ago. Travis
  23. My advice? Don't try to flush mount them....just use steel conduit and steel boxes. They aint going to get in the way. Make it easy on yourself. I tried what you're trying to do when I first built my shop back in '03....I've pulled all of it out and have redone it more than once.... Travis
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