Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

Everything posted by Sparky

  1. You're doing something wrong if you had to replace a starter or solenoid every year or so... Travis
  2. Your post is a little confusing. Did you buy a new MCV, or did you buy a new MCV pump? Either way, it shouldn't ever develop a problem as long as it's in a cool, dry area. Travis
  3. You've actually watched them sell for that price....or is that just what they are asking? Travis
  4. That depends on the size of the weight bracket... Travis
  5. Everyone says $1 a pound for 100lb weights and $1.25/lb for the smaller ones.... FYI: I have never paid anywhere that much for any of my weights. Bought most of mine back in '08 after putting an ad in the local paper. I bought a few few thousand lbs of weights back then. I'd say they are a good investment, but I'm not sure I ever plan on selling them. lol Travis
  6. Lots of those "Test" harnesses (not "bypass" harness!) being run out there. Until CaseIH can manufacture a Sentry module that is worth a damn and will last, I won't blame anyone for running one. That $2745 for a Sentry that doesn't last will go a long way towards repairs. What do I recommend? You do what's best for you and your pocketbook. What would I do? I just don't own a 50 series tractor. Sure, they're some of the best looking tractors that IH made, but totally overrated, imo. Travis
  7. Looks pretty dry in the pic....should be soaking it in carburetor cleaner. Wiggle, wiggle, wiggle, soak it in carb cleaner...the carb cleaner will shrink the o-ring. Soak it for a day or twoo. Be generous with the carb cleaner. Travis
  8. You must not have bought one in awhile... 224839C91 fuel cap is over $45 a piece now... Travis
  9. Three different heads...well, technically 6 different heads... Old style Naturally Aspirated...p/n 680427C1 Old style Turbo Non "B" or "C" engines...p/n 680426C1 Old style Turbo "B" engine... p/n 688833C1 New style Naturally Aspirated...p/n 680427C2 New style Turbo Non "B" or "C" engine...p/n 680426C2 New style Turbo "B" and "C" engine...p/n 688833C2 Part # is between the #4 and #5 injectors. Travis
  10. First of all....besides building your own engine, where are you going to find a better built reman? I've had good luck with them, although I don't use them much. Secondly...not a thing wrong with heli-coil when done correctly. The cam....well, who knows what happened there. Could have been the break-in procedure or just dumb luck. Travis
  11. Yes.....there are blocks stamped 414, 415, 436, 437, 466, 467, 468....but we are talking about the factory engine in a 5488 which would be a variant of the 466. Travis
  12. For the sake of simplicity and trying not to confuse the confusable any more than they need be, I didn't mention the 467 or 468 that could be there, too. Travis
  13. You do realize if the block serial # starts out with "466DT" that it isn't a factory turbocharged engine? A factory turbocharged 466 block serial # will start out "466TT"..... Travis
  14. I doubt it's your cam bearings on this particular engine. Especially since you have so much pressure at startup. If you can't find a problem with the mains and rod bearings, follow the oil pressure path. Travis
  15. If the bearings weren't line bored, they weren't changed. But...those German diesels last a long, long, long time without needing more than rod and main bearings. Might be worthwhile to drop the pan and plastigauge the mains and rods...something was missed. Travis
  16. So....was the cam bearings replaced and bored as they should be? With that low of pressure, I'm guessing there has been a mistake made, but not sure what to think right off. What weight of oil do you run in it? Travis
  17. I did not realize that. Thanks for the tip. That's probably one of the few things that JD is cheaper on, I'd say. Travis
  18. I'm all for supporting the dealer (because if we don't, the dealers aren't going to support us and our old parts needs), but when it comes to that flasher, I think there is a wayyy easier and cheaper way to have 4-way flashers. That flasher unit is pricey...for being a flasher unit, anyway. Travis
  19. Gotta set the pressure, and check the pressure yearly. Use good fluid, and try to keep the water out of it. Travis
  20. No...a cast center that fits a 1086 will no fit a 1066 because they have different size axles. If you want different cast centers for your 1066 you will have to find them off of a tractor that has the same 3.25" axle. Travis
  21. First of all....1086's have 3.5" axles. 1066's have 3.25" axles. Wheels from a 1086 will not fit a 1066 and vice versa. Secondly, if your 1066 has clamp style wheels, the wedge lock wheels from a 1066 (or any tractor with 3.25" axles) will fit just fine. ....and the same is true of a 1086....although I'm pretty sure no 1086 came from the factory with clamp style wheels, but many things can and have been changed over the last 40+ years. Travis
  22. Yep...those side panels were still louvered in '74 and '75 and had red cabs before the black stripes came out in late '75... Travis
  • Create New...