louie figone

That looks like a 500, the gas motor in the 500 is the C146.

JW, does it grind in all gears? With the engine clutch cover off what is the shaft doing when you put it into gear with the clutch engaged? It almost sounds like you are having transmission problems. If it all looks good in the clutch compartment, then pull the transmission gear housing cover to see what's going on in the transmission, you may have bent shifting forks that do not engage the gears properly. The gear drive transmissions are fairly easy to work on, all the gears come out from the front (clutch compartment) If all the gears are good, and nothing is moving up and down as in bad bearings then you may have a ring and pinion problem. Does the tractor move in any of the gears? https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiXlMTSq4r3AhXGZs0KHej_BPYQFnoECAUQAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tractorparts.com%2FPDFs%2FTD9B%20150%20TD9B%20Loader%20SVC.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1xlXkUnxSOPP7t56Z2KxiH You can download the service manual here.

JW, 40-45 lbs. pull is correct, even with less the tractor should work. The brake clutch facing Hector is talking about #11, is riveted to engine clutch coupling #10, when disengaging the engine clutch the lining presses against the throw out bearing carrier #18, that will stop the transmission gears so you can shift without grinding the gears. When disengaging the clutch you push forward, push hard to stop the gears so you can shift. If your lining is gone then make sure you come to a complete stop before shifting. If you have water in the transmission drain it and keep the oil at the correct level. With low oil I had the transmission jump out of third gear when pulling (Ag TD9B), bringing the oil up to where it should be stopped that problem, you may want to pull the top cover off to inspect the gears.

Goose Creek, It sounds like you need to adjust the brakes. Here are two pages out of the service manual, also a page on adjusting the brakes.

This is what we are paying here in my area yesterday. Diesel was $6.59, fuel prices are jumping up every day.

Federal Safety Yellow, also called School Bus Yellow

General Gear shows them at $110.00. 9, 91, 92 and 9B use the same bearing, different numbers but are interchangeable.

Angry Sailor, I love this project! 👍

IH47, The TD14A was built between 1949 and 1955. Can you post a picture or two of the tractor? There were many different blade manufactures.

Doesn't the number get more as the valves would recess into the head as they wear. That number, .033-.046 is maximum recession. I would think you would want to be at around .010 or less recession when the valves are redone.

I had my local print shop make mine for my 100C, I took pictures and measured before painting, they did an excellent job.

That number does not seem right, my IH Engine service manual (ISS-1040-1) calls out "Maximum allowable recession, inch Valve protrusion from face of the cylinder head, inch.......033 - .046. This is for both the intake and exhaust on the D236, D282 and D301 engines. This is from the face of the cylinder head.

Nice work, I love the project!

Spencer Diesel shows a turbo for the 560 (part # SDTTO4N8069) I don't know if this is a replacement or a conversion turbo, you might want to check it out.

Brian, here you go, let me know if you need any more dimensions. I tried to measure the pins; the top link pin seems to be 1.750, the bucket pivot pin I am not able to get a good measurement on, bigger than the top link pin, calipers show about 1.788 but I would not trust that number, I would need to remove the pin to get an accurate measurement.

This is a bucket lubricator, this has the nozzle for sealed rollers, for the older style rollers with the button head fittings you would use a different fitting. 90w to 140w oil is usually used.

Have you had any luck finding a 4 in 1 bucket? I have a 100C with the 4 in 1 bucket, I can get you whatever measurements you may need.

Geardoc, FP Smith shows item #8, 314632R1 new and used in stock on their website, none of the other pieces show but may be fabricated. Looks like #11 is a reducer and #6 a straight piece of hose.

Very nice work, I like it.

pkingsley, go to the construction forum, at the top is the link to take you to serial numbers, according to the info there your tractor is a 1965

Is the brake pedal return spring in place or broken? Other than that I would check that the brake pedal rod was adjusted properly before adjusting the brakes.

Twolines, the 500 came with a 12 volt system. Or am I misunderstanding what you want to do with the electrical system.

James, thank you for keeping us updated, this is a good post

Heavy press sleeves are .035-.045 flange above crankcase. I used this setup to check the protrusion of the sleeves. We miked the original flanges and shims, the new sleeves were the same, we used the new shims that were the same as the ones we took out, it came out perfect.

That tool is FES-49 for the light press sleeves, the tool for the heavy press sleeves is FES-24-6, no picture is shown in the engine service manual for the FES-24-6. Snoshoe, do you have a picture of the tool for the heavy press sleeves.