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louie figone

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Everything posted by louie figone

  1. Transmission filter is accessible from the bottom of the tractor. It's a stainless mesh strainer, washable. Drain the transmission before you pull the cover (7) or you will make a mess.
  2. Is it a 32-B Flex Line Offset Disk 15 ft - 24 ft? They also had the 32-B Una-Beam 9 ft - 13-1/2 ft, 32 Una-Beam flex-line squadron offset disk 30 ft -42 ft. and the smaller 33 offset disk 5-1/4 ft - 8-1/4 ft.
  3. Been using this for 20 plus years in a power shift 100C Transmission.
  4. Jensales shows push rod 541279 to fit the DT360 DT360A, 1987-1993 Mid/Heavy duty trucks. Not used in Ag. Logging or Construction.
  5. The short shaft is to drive a PTO, clean it up, it should be fine.
  6. Bulldogred On the rear, upper right side.
  7. Swampdigger, Pull the engine, put a new ring gear on the flywheel, fix the starter, you will be much happier. Your plan may or may not work if it is a gear drive, it will not work on a power shift tractor as the hydraulic pumps are driven by the torque converter. By the time you do all the plumbing you can have the engine out of the tractor.
  8. TD5, Nice job saving that tractor. It's starting to look like new again.
  9. Bulldogred, the serial number is also stamped on upper right hand side near the rear face of rear main frame. Another way is to check the track gauge, the TD7 is 52 inches center to center, the TD8 is 54 inches center to center.
  10. Greg, do the pressure check as the manual says, that will tell you if it's the clutch pack or the hook seal ring. This is the service manual you need.
  11. You need to check the main pressure at the two ports on the main case. It sounds like you either have the forward drive clutch slipping or the hook seal ring is broken. Do you have the service manual for your tractor?
  12. Ya, postage would be astronomical and could take a month for them to show up?
  13. Bulldogred, measure the gauge of the tracks (center to center) the TD7 is 52 inches, The TD8 is 54 inches. Dennis is correct in that the serial number is stamped on the right hand side near the rear face of rear main frame.
  14. There is a factory service manual on ebay now for the 100Chttps://www.ebay.com/itm/252847791311?hash=item3adee71ccf:g:IdgAAOSww3tY5rII Searching Ebay is probably the best if you want OEM service manuals, otherwise there are reprints available, the quality is not as good as the original manuals.
  15. You need to pull the radiator. The torque converter will come out with the engine. You need to get the service manual for the 100C.
  16. Will this help, from a 1970 Parts and Accessories book
  17. TD9, take the two bolts out of the clutch release fork, you may have to put some heat on the fork to free the rust, there are two woodruff keys in the shaft that hold the fork from twisting, also a woodruff key on the shaft keeping the hand lever from twisting. You will need to remove the two keys from the shaft so you can slide the shaft out of the case. The gears look ok as mmi says, that rust will clean up fast when using the tractor.
  18. Swampdigger, no that is not the factory IH ripper.
  19. Swampdigger, Welcome to the forum, I have attached a page out of the operators manual, the large notch is the cold start position, after starting and leaving it in the cold start position the engine will start to lope after a couple of minutes, then move the throttle to the low idle position. You want to run it at full high idle position, the tractor has a torque converter, it needs high rpm (they are rated at 2500 rpm) to develop power to the transmission. You can shift from 1 to 2 to 3 without using the decelerator, use the decelerator when shifting from forward to reverse and come to a stop, or when wanting to creep the tractor, after awhile you will get the feel for it's use. We like to see pictures.
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