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louie figone

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Posts posted by louie figone

  1. 23 minutes ago, IH Drott 150 said:

    3- Any idea of the part number for the strainer?

    4- This is my first tracked machine, only other experience I have with tracks was in the military, and it been a while.  That said, others that seem to have an idea, has said that the tracks are actually in really decent shape.

    5- if anyone has a book, I will pay whatever it costs to copy/print/ship, etc.  Just email me please.  Hazlet.dan@gmail.com

    Digital would be great, but I'm not sure how to send a file that large.

    Again, thank you all for the help.

    Strainer part number is 324 459 R91, FP Smith shows new in stock. It's a stainless mesh strainer, if it's not damaged there is no need to replace it, wash it, blow it out with compressed air, they do not wear out.

    Go to Ebay for a service manual, try and get an original IH service manual, the reprints are sometimes not very good quality.

    That zerk fitting is to grease the shaft, grease will come out the end, that's normal. That's not the zerk to tighten up the tracks, that fitting is under the plug. 

  2. There were two types of track adjusters available for that tractor, the manual and the optional hydraulic adjuster, here is the procedure to adjust your tracks. You have the hydraulic adjusters on your 150. The whine noise in the hydraulic system sounds like a plugged strainer, that is an easy fix. If you don't mind getting your arm coated in oil it can be done without draining the hydraulic system, I would always drain the system so you can also wipe the bottom of the tank clean, also it eliminates the chance of grit getting into the return line also if the system is that dirty it's time to put in fresh hydraulic oil.

    IH TD9B track adjustment.jpg

    IH TD9B track adjustment 2.jpg

    IH TD9B track adjustment 3.jpg

    IH TD9B hydraulic tank filter.jpg

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  3. On 5/17/2024 at 11:07 AM, IH Blood 1206 said:

    More cleaning on the 650 today and noticed a couple things. Yellow primer has been a topic before. Well it looks as if someone wrote their initials in yellow.  At the factory?  And also looks like the letters "LP" on the block. Was it sitting somewhere at the assembly line and someone designated this an LP block instead of gas?  Interesting. Got the water pump rebuilt and have inspected the clutch. All looks good but the clutch goes over center really hard and kinda noisy when it snaps. Like you're hitting it with a hammer. It slides easily but is loud. I've never dealt with one. Is this normal?

    And for some reason it wants to post the pics upside down. 20240517_113259.thumb.jpg.08c871bde6469363ce7d3a0e509b40fb.jpg





    The clutch looks the same as is in the TD6 crawler, they do make a snap noise when engaging, set the clutch by the pull on the handle, 40 lbs. of pull is what is recommended on the crawlers. There are several grease zerk fittings on the clutch linkage.

    • Like 1
  4. On 6/1/2024 at 2:38 PM, just Dave said:

    I would say you need preload on your front idler bearings… so no play. If you are getting play you will wear the chain and pressure rollers more than needed 

    Dave, TD9's have bushings in the front idler, late TD9-92 series (serial # 4831 and up) IH went to the tapered roller bearing.

    • Thanks 1
  5. 2 minutes ago, Ian Beale said:

    The one I copied had part of the giant button thread ground off for the discharge port

    Ian, the 62 series have sealed rollers and have a plug in the roller shaft. The older series tractors that use button head do not have sealed rollers that is why they recommended lubing the rollers every 10 hours, at least that is what our old Cat 15 needed. 

  6. 3 hours ago, Tad Wicks said:

    I might be mistaken but on one of the 14's that had what we called 1000 hour rollers, used a tool like pictured above but it had  pipe threads on the end and it actually screwed into the roller somewhere near the center of the shaft and like was mentioned, you pumped it till it burped out air and off you went, it was much cleaner than the adapter you just stuck in the hole. Just a quick FYI the 500 E has a plug in the center of the roller shell, you basically have to remove them to fill them. IIRC you were supposed to clock the plug at 2 o'clock or so to fill them.

    Tad, How does the air expel from the interior of the roller if the lubricator tube is screwed into the roller shaft? I would think doing it that way would build pressure in the roller cavity?

  7. TD6-62 series have 1000-hour rollers, they have a plug in the end, remove the plug, it takes a special tool to put oil in the rollers. Oil at the hole does not mean they have oil. I have attached a couple of pages from the operator's manual. I would also check the sprocket drives, you should drain and refill, these take 90 weight gear oil as do the rollers. You should also grease the steering clutch pilot bearings, these seem to always get neglected, the zerk fitting is accessible through the plates on the rear of the tractor, 10 to 20 strokes of grease on these fittings. Get yourself an operator's manual, there are a lot of zerk fittings on these tractors, in the clutch area there are 7 fittings alone. The manuals show up on ebay, try to get an original, not a reprint. Lets see some pictures of your new tractor.

    IH roller lubricator.jpg

    IH Roller lubricator nozzle.jpg

    IH TD6 62 roller lube.jpg

    IH TD6 62 service 2.jpg

    IH TD6 62 Sprocket drive oil.jpg

    • Like 1
  8. 15 hours ago, tboldstuff59823 said:

    Can you tell by the pictures it’s a T340? 

    It's either a T4 or T5, they look the same. When you go to look at it check the engine serial number, The T4 used a C123, The T5 used the C135. The crawlers have the starter on the left side, the Ag tractors have the starter on the right side. I had a 1960 T340 with the C135 in the past, it had replaceable sleeves.

    IH C-135 engine 1.jpg

    IH C-135 engine 2.jpg

    IH C-135 engine 3.jpg

    IH C-135 engine 4.jpg

  9. Put a Roosa Master on it, much more availability on parts, I changed from the RD pump on my TD9B to a Roosa Master years ago, the parts are available for the Roosa Master. Find a doner tractor, buy all the pieces including the drive gear, fuel injection pipes, throttle rod although the RD throttle rod will work. Have the pump modified to the specifications of your tractor, the Ag tractor specifications will give you the most power, it's a DGBFC-631-90AE, time it at 3 deg BTDC. The Roosa Master pumps are now Stanadyne, Stanadyne has a diesel fuel additive you should also use.  

    • Like 2
  10. 14 hours ago, Jwt21961 said:

    Hi, I'm new to the site and have been working on a TD6 with a Bucyrus blade that I received from my father. There has always been some confusion as to what year it is. Chassis serial # TDBK24248T7CC, Engine serial #UD281-M4. The chassis number I believe indicates 1949. But I read somewhere that the D281 wasn't installed until like 1960 and was a 6 cylinder. Any help would be appreciated.

    The first TD6's, 1940 to 1956 had the 4-cylinder gas start 248 diesel engines, then in 1956 to 1959 the TD6-61 series had the 4-cylinder gas start D264 diesel engine. The late 61 series had the 4-cylinder gas start D281. 1959 to 1970 came the TD6-62 series which used the direct start (glow plugs) 6-cylinder D282. All the TD6 chassis are very similar with some minor changes, you could use 62 series parts, rollers, sprockets, rails, transmission parts etc. and use them in the early TD6's. The PTO are all the same for all the years plus they fit the TD9, the TD9 uses a longer input shaft. Someone at some time in your tractor's life did a conversion and put in the largest 4-cylinder engine IH used in the TD6, the power output of the D281 is almost the same as the 6-cylinder D282. Lets see some pictures of your tractor, we love pictures.

    • Like 2
  11. On 3/26/2024 at 9:26 PM, Shadow351 said:

    We are working on my late grandfather's TD-7C (Decals say TD-7 Series C and the data plate is stamped TD7C) and I'm trying to decipher the year and engine. It currently has a cylinder head off an IH 574 diesel D239 installed on it (previous owner apparently overheated it and cracked the head) but all the information I've read seems to indicate that it should have the D206. I cleaned up the stamp on the block rearward of the oil filter and the first 4 digits are indeed "206D" but I don't want to assume that is a sure indicator it is a D206 (I've been burned by similar assumptions before). Are the D206 & D239 head identical?

    Additionally, we are trying to decipher the model year, and the last 4 digits of the serial number are 0998 which according to the info in this thread would indicate it is a 1971 MY but the serial number begins with a 442 which the same info would indicate it is a TD-8? Is there a reason these prefixes wouldn't align? 




    Measure the track gauge (center to center of the tracks) TD7 is 52 inches, TD8 is 54 inches.

  12. 3 hours ago, Newf Backhoe said:

    Bob, I also have a 3444 backhoe, wondering if you have any service info for fuel filters and hydraulic filters?

    Gas (BC144) or Diesel (BD154) use the same filters:  Engine oil WIX 51302, Hydraulic WIX 51662, Power Steering WIX 51467, Torque Converter WIX 51452,  Diesel fuel filter WIX 33166



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