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louie figone

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Posts posted by louie figone

  1. Thread locking head screws, they have a small patch of nylon on the threads to keep the bolts from loosening. When I did the steering clutches on my TD9 it had these bolts, I reused them, this was in 1984, tractor is still running. I don't know if they came with the self locking bolts or if at one time before I bought the tractor the clutches were worked on. My TD6 has the safety wire, the next time I do the steering clutches I will replace with the self locking bolts.

    Thread locking head screws.png

  2. From the description section of the service manual: The hydraulic system used on the above listed tractors (TD6, TD9, TD14, TD18) is a semi-closed system with a maximum operating pressure of 650 psi and a normal operating pressure of 250-400 psi."

    Is the size of the pistons you listed the rod or the piston size, I run 5 x 16 cylinders with a 2 inch rod on both my TD6 and TD9 with a 33 gpm pump, it is the perfect size for the blade, they are very smooth to operate. With big cylinders you need good volume.

  3. 23 hours ago, td9bcf180 said:

    I agree with you @louie figone the book should be correct. However my # is one out-  285705 R 9_   (3). See my tag. Maybe a rebuild and they tagged it wrong?

    TD14pumptag.jpg

    The 285707R93 could be a later version of the pump, the R93 would designate it as a later part number, The service manual I have is a 1967 version so it would list the latest number, if you have a parts book for the TD14 is may show your number. If you want the section on rebuilding that pump I can scan it, it's not too many pages. There's not a whole lot that goes wrong with hydraulic pumps, the only thing gone wrong with my setup's is the drive splines on the crankshaft, they have worn to the point the pump stopped working.

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  4. The pump on your TD9-91 was for the TD14A, the book shows these tractors used the Hydreco  3020C5A1 IH part # 285707R93. The pump for the TD9-91 used the 2020K8B2. The 2020 pump is rated at 29-33 gpm, depending on the engine rpm. My TD6-62 pump is a 32 gpm pump.

    Here is the info out of the IH Hydraulic Equipment service manual.

    img387.jpg

    img385.jpg

    img386.jpg

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  5. Shanep, the eccentric brake and clutch actuating shaft item #9? Part number 621 025 C1. FP Smith shows new and used in stock. If they beat the levers (3 and 14) on then they screwed up the splines on those also. Left and rights are different. LH steering brake is 621 032 C1, Right is 621 033 C1,  Left steering clutch is 621 027 C1 Right is 621 028 C1.  These part numbers are out of the 100C parts book, TD7C and E and TD8C and E take the same.

    IH 100C brake and clutch parts.jpg

    IH 100 Brake Clutch primary shoe.jpg

    IH 100 Brake Clutch backup shoe.jpg

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, trucker1 said:

    What Louis said, clutch has to be engaged, as paragraph '#3 in the service manual said. Plus, I see that you have the pressure plate unbolted from the flywheel already. That will have to be bolted back on first, but a couple of bolts should hold it on so you can get the coupling out.

     

    George

    Good catch George, I missed that the pressure plate was loose.

    Louie

  7. TD6, it looks like your clutch is disengaged, engage the clutch (push the throw-out bearing in towards the flywheel) also on the end of the input shaft (27) there is a zerk fitting, take that out, it will give you another 1/2 inch clearance. This should give you enough room to remove the coupling and then the clutch will come out. Your coupling looks like the early style, the later styles are a little different.

    Before installing fill the input shaft with grease until it comes out the end (pilot bearing side) this way after it is installed you only need to put 5 or 6 pumps with the grease gun, you will know the pilot bearing then has grease. 

  8. 23 minutes ago, IH Drott 150 said:

    3- Any idea of the part number for the strainer?

    4- This is my first tracked machine, only other experience I have with tracks was in the military, and it been a while.  That said, others that seem to have an idea, has said that the tracks are actually in really decent shape.

    5- if anyone has a book, I will pay whatever it costs to copy/print/ship, etc.  Just email me please.  Hazlet.dan@gmail.com

    Digital would be great, but I'm not sure how to send a file that large.

    Again, thank you all for the help.

    Strainer part number is 324 459 R91, FP Smith shows new in stock. It's a stainless mesh strainer, if it's not damaged there is no need to replace it, wash it, blow it out with compressed air, they do not wear out.

    Go to Ebay for a service manual, try and get an original IH service manual, the reprints are sometimes not very good quality.

    That zerk fitting is to grease the shaft, grease will come out the end, that's normal. That's not the zerk to tighten up the tracks, that fitting is under the plug. 

  9. There were two types of track adjusters available for that tractor, the manual and the optional hydraulic adjuster, here is the procedure to adjust your tracks. You have the hydraulic adjusters on your 150. The whine noise in the hydraulic system sounds like a plugged strainer, that is an easy fix. If you don't mind getting your arm coated in oil it can be done without draining the hydraulic system, I would always drain the system so you can also wipe the bottom of the tank clean, also it eliminates the chance of grit getting into the return line also if the system is that dirty it's time to put in fresh hydraulic oil.

    IH TD9B track adjustment.jpg

    IH TD9B track adjustment 2.jpg

    IH TD9B track adjustment 3.jpg

    IH TD9B hydraulic tank filter.jpg

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  10. On 5/17/2024 at 11:07 AM, IH Blood 1206 said:

    More cleaning on the 650 today and noticed a couple things. Yellow primer has been a topic before. Well it looks as if someone wrote their initials in yellow.  At the factory?  And also looks like the letters "LP" on the block. Was it sitting somewhere at the assembly line and someone designated this an LP block instead of gas?  Interesting. Got the water pump rebuilt and have inspected the clutch. All looks good but the clutch goes over center really hard and kinda noisy when it snaps. Like you're hitting it with a hammer. It slides easily but is loud. I've never dealt with one. Is this normal?

    And for some reason it wants to post the pics upside down. 20240517_113259.thumb.jpg.08c871bde6469363ce7d3a0e509b40fb.jpg

     

    20240517_113326.thumb.jpg.13e6c837104d7e35bdad4652eeaead1d.jpg20240517_114048.jpg

     

     

    The clutch looks the same as is in the TD6 crawler, they do make a snap noise when engaging, set the clutch by the pull on the handle, 40 lbs. of pull is what is recommended on the crawlers. There are several grease zerk fittings on the clutch linkage.

    • Like 1
  11. On 6/1/2024 at 2:38 PM, just Dave said:

    I would say you need preload on your front idler bearings… so no play. If you are getting play you will wear the chain and pressure rollers more than needed 

    Dave, TD9's have bushings in the front idler, late TD9-92 series (serial # 4831 and up) IH went to the tapered roller bearing.

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  12. 2 minutes ago, Ian Beale said:

    The one I copied had part of the giant button thread ground off for the discharge port

    Ian, the 62 series have sealed rollers and have a plug in the roller shaft. The older series tractors that use button head do not have sealed rollers that is why they recommended lubing the rollers every 10 hours, at least that is what our old Cat 15 needed. 

  13. 3 hours ago, Tad Wicks said:

    I might be mistaken but on one of the 14's that had what we called 1000 hour rollers, used a tool like pictured above but it had  pipe threads on the end and it actually screwed into the roller somewhere near the center of the shaft and like was mentioned, you pumped it till it burped out air and off you went, it was much cleaner than the adapter you just stuck in the hole. Just a quick FYI the 500 E has a plug in the center of the roller shell, you basically have to remove them to fill them. IIRC you were supposed to clock the plug at 2 o'clock or so to fill them.

    Tad, How does the air expel from the interior of the roller if the lubricator tube is screwed into the roller shaft? I would think doing it that way would build pressure in the roller cavity?

  14. TD6-62 series have 1000-hour rollers, they have a plug in the end, remove the plug, it takes a special tool to put oil in the rollers. Oil at the hole does not mean they have oil. I have attached a couple of pages from the operator's manual. I would also check the sprocket drives, you should drain and refill, these take 90 weight gear oil as do the rollers. You should also grease the steering clutch pilot bearings, these seem to always get neglected, the zerk fitting is accessible through the plates on the rear of the tractor, 10 to 20 strokes of grease on these fittings. Get yourself an operator's manual, there are a lot of zerk fittings on these tractors, in the clutch area there are 7 fittings alone. The manuals show up on ebay, try to get an original, not a reprint. Lets see some pictures of your new tractor.

    IH roller lubricator.jpg

    IH Roller lubricator nozzle.jpg

    IH TD6 62 roller lube.jpg

    IH TD6 62 service 2.jpg

    IH TD6 62 Sprocket drive oil.jpg

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