5488Duke

Prayers from Ohio for kristofer and your family. If I was closer I’d come watch those cows for you so you could be right be their side.

X3.

If you can't find what you want new, then try Spallinger Combine Salvage over by Bluffton, just down the road from Anderson Tractor Salvage yard. They should have several RWA units and parts for them. Something like 40 acres of combines to part out.

When it was cold out and us kids had gloves on trying to work on something like putting a bolt and nut on something...Dad would say “Get those sissy mittens off and get that job done, can’t wait on you all day”

I have had a few people contact me about the conversion. Even got a few mounting plates and brackets made and shipped them to forum member to help them along. Don’t know if anyone else has tried to change one over or not yet. Always willing to help if someone wants to try. If you like to do some minor steel fabricating yourself the changes are very straight forward.

The 5488 is doing well, door has been perfect since installed. It is our main planting tractor and then does lighter tillage in fall on disc or disc chisel. I am pretty much done with all of the modifications now, last year was a new seat and auto-pilot auto steer. Here’s another pic this fall getting the dust washed off from sitting in the shed all summer, getting ready for fall work.

I have found with these dual fuel gauges that the best trouble shooting tool you can use with them is to remove the fuel gauge from the tank and hook them up to the wiring, then operate them slowly through their entire range watching the gauge in the tractor. I have found gauges that have dead spots in the sender, read fine half way, then loose connection and read like the tank is empty the other half. Have found senders with part of the "v" that picks up the voltage as the gauge moves through its range is broke off on one side that causes it to read poorly/not at all. It also tells you if both sending units are working or if the wiring is bad somewhere under the tractor, especially if you can ohm the sender with a meter and know it reads out OK through its range of motion but not on the tractor. The one 5288 we had trouble with had a wire pinched between the two gauges, still intact with the outside covering but wires inside broken.

No those aren’t bad at all. Just unhook linkage bars and loosen them up they should come off one by one.

Unless you have small hands or someone nibble it is best to remove the right tire at least. I have fought to change some linkages by removing the seat and floor but it is time consuming and working blind at lot. If you can take that wheel off or move it way out, then everything is right there to work on and take apart. And a lot easier to make adjustments putting it all back together. Two bottom bolts and the pivot shaft drops out, plastic cover on bottom has to come off first. Then you can pull the knobs off the drop the levers down through for removal and repair. Good luck.

Thanks everyone! And Happy Birthday to all those that share this day !!

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone! Hope everyone has safe travels today. Enjoy the family, friends and great food!

After all these years, who knows where things are grounded and how the power feed is. Maynard and the other guys are right, you need to check the power and ground situations. Two power connections that could be bad, one like Maynard said up by the air box/alternator area; other one is under the right front part of cab at right rear corner of engine. I have found one or both of these plugs heated/melted/corroded from bad connections and causing problems. The ground...trace the ground on the lights to make sure where the ground goes to and that it is clean. Regardless, I have always put a single ground wire from alternator mount bolt to a bolt on the air box somewhere, just to give a good ground. The 2wd drive 54 I had flickered the lights one spring...found plug by alternator bad and fixed that...flickered again a week or so later...checked wires, cleaned, looked OK..so added the ground wire...OK for a while...then flickered again!! Found plug at rear of engine had been overheated and looked awful just on that wire, had to remove wire and make a single connector for it and finally the lights didn't flicker... So been there done that...check ALL the connectors the first time and you should be good.

Very Nice! You will like the new addition. She looks to be in great shape!

All of our stuff is fairly old also, 2188 is a 95 and all the tractors are older than 84 other than the 315 for tillage. A lot of the wiring on our tractors was in the same shape as you describe when we got them. No new harnesses, just got some wire, some heat shrink wrap and a bunch of connectors and started in replacing bad spots or bad ends. Like on the 2188, we were having trouble with holding voltage at night with all the lights on. So that winter I took every connection apart and you can't believe how much bean dust can pack into those, blew them out, used electrical cleaner and greased...but I found many that were starting to corrode which is where the extra battery draw and heat comes from. After cleaning it all up, we hold an easy 13 on the gauge all night long with everything running. I have had some comments on how clean we do keep things...and we had 150 head dairy up until 95 with many of those tractors around. So they weren't always shed queens between seasons, ha ha! I do get disappointed when we have a breakdown...take a lot of pride in making sure things are up to snuff before season starts. Makes the season go a lot smoother!

Northern Ohio winters here also...We have been getting batteries from our local dealer, but they handle Harris Brand batteries. They try to give me a felt washer to put on the battery posts every time we get a new battery and I tell them to keep it for the next guy, I use grease for that purpose. Here is what we have been doing for the last 20 years and we have numerous batteries that are over 10-13 years old. Two tractors only get 40-50 hours of use a year on them. And this includes the 2188 combine too which has 11 year old batteries and starts like a fire cracker still! Batteries: apply a heavy layer of grease on each post to seal the post and the plastic battery case around it--this seals the post and the area that may leak acid fumes that cause the corrosion on the posts and cable clamp; next attach the battery cables..grease up the clamp and bolts also...and make sure they are good cables! If you got one with one of those bolt on replacement ends, pitch it now!!! Next step: clean all the ground connections for the battery cables and the main grounds for the tractor wiring too. Then clean and protect all other main positive connections for starter, alternator and positive cable connections going to main fuses/cab relays. We have never used any battery tenders and never disconnect the grounds. Most all equipment is in cold storage in the buildings. We do pick a couple warmer days through the winter to start everything up and let them run for 5-10 minutes. I really think keeping the wiring and connections clean and never using those crimp connectors on stuff is also key. Any wiring issue gets fixed with soldered connections, as soon as possible, yes we do use the crimp ons for quick fixes to keep us going, but if that happens it is written in the service book and changed next chance we get. We also will go through the entire machine every 5 years or so and take every wiring connection apart and check for being clean and apply electric grease to the connections. The extra draw from bad connections and that load on the alternator and battery system has an effect on the life you will get from the battery and alternator.