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crawlernut

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Everything posted by crawlernut

  1. C

    chevy43, Thanks for your interest. Sorry, the holidays have been busy and I have not been on the site much. What info do you need on the crawlers? I can send info. I'm not too clever with the computer stuff. I can also meet you at yard so you can take a closer look at them. Let me know how I can help you, Jim.

  2. Hardtail, Most are projects. The TD14 is going to a local museum. A couple of the TD 9s are runners as well as a 141. Even a twin stacker but too far the King to travel. Some parts machines also. Just beginning to get the word out to see if there may be some interest. Thanks for the reply. Jim
  3. Brian, Sorry to hear of your situation. I know you will overcome your new set of challenges. I have always appreciated the advice you offered. Take good care of yourself. Jim
  4. I have decided I have too many projects for retirement, so have decided to let some go. check list under avatar and email me here for details, Not able to ship. Collectors are welcome, scrappers are not. Thanks, Jim.
  5. The pump air filter is just a cast iron canister with felt discs to filter the air moving in /out of the pump crankcase. It pulls air out of air filter housing behind dash. Take the housing apart. clean felts in gas or solvent, dry and reinstall. The fittings were a special type with ends that were soldered to tubing. You can convert the fittings over to compression type with a ferrule, but the high pressure lines may leak or seep. Jim.
  6. If it sputters and smokes on gas cycle, assuming no choke, it could be your bowl float is leaking and not shutting gas off at correct bowl level. Did you check the bowl float when you cleaned the carb? check and clean the needle valve and seat. also there is a little cam that shuts the needle valve off controlled by a little arm off the compression linkage. Make sure that is connected and working. Lube and manually operate the intake butterfly valve shafts as they get sticky and wont close fully. The V shaped flipper needs to be in the up position to start. It sounds like it is getting to
  7. Check the gas flow into the bowl from the tank. Pull the drain plug and turn on the gas at the sediment strainer. Should be a steady flow. Catch the gas in a clean bucket and look for water or rust in the gas. clean out tank if necessary. There is also a screen in the inlet on the carb. clean this also. Check the intake butterfly lever on inside of the manifold to make sure it is in the up position. this is where it needs to be to start on gasoline. check the spark plugs for fire and clean up plugs if necessary. drop the oil cup on bottom of air; filter . clean and refill with
  8. Peter, If you have a manual, it will have the diesel fuel system. Basically, fuel tank to water separator (glass bowl below starter). water separator out to inlet primary filter (rearmost filter) out of primary filter to primary pump inlet. Out of primary pump to secondary filter inlet. secondary filter outlet to plunger inlet. then diesel either goes up to injectors or out return line to be recycled into fuel tank via the return line. Send me your email and I will scan the schematic and send to you. Jim.
  9. How I love a Disney ending to a story. On the diesel side, assume every section of the system is dirty. Drain and flush tank. Disconnect and clean all lines to and from pump. Remove filter base and clean out and replace both filters. (maybe one filter on a 6. ) Drain and replace oil in fuel pump. Then open the bleeders on all injectors and with engine running on gas, slowly advance the throttle till pump starts pumping fuel but not trip the compression release lever. This will allow you to bleed the injectors of air while engine is running on gasoline cycle. Jim.
  10. Peter, Soaking with the ATF+ acetone will help to loosen stuck rings. The oil in the wet test will temporarily seal the rings to boost pressure. If rings are stuck, the "juice " may loosen up the rings and increase the pressure even more. WIth the plugs out and juice in the cylinders, spin the engine over several times a day and then reapply the juice, wait till next day and repeat. This approach will also clean up the cylinder walls which may have a light rust coat on them from sitting. Could save you from pulling head. Jim.
  11. I would pull the valve cover and check for sticky valves. Intake, exhaust and starting valves. I like to tap the valves with a soft brass punch. Check clearance on all valves, then do a wet compression test to see if the compression comes up any. Make sure engine is on gas start cycle. Jim.
  12. there is a round plate with 2 bolts on middle of spring which holds spring on pivot pin. Once removed, you can slide spring forward to gain the clearance to pull engine and adapter plate forward and up. Jim.
  13. I usually don't pull the pivot housing. Jack up the frame so the pressure on the equalizer spring is off, pull the cap screws on pivot retainer and slide the spring forward enough so the engine adapter plate and flywheel will clear the clutch housing and engine will slide forward and come out. Jim.
  14. Vic, It is held on with a notched bolt from the bottom of the flipper casting. One position only. Jim.
  15. Vic, On my 14 A, the butterfly valves were stuck tight. I heated the small screws with a small oxy torch and got them out. I cleaned the shafts up and ran a bore brush thru the shaft housing. Reassembled with some Neversieze and its been working since. Some times i need to reach behind the manifold and pull up on the V flipper till it clicks, but then its good to go. I don't start and use the tractors often enough to keep things free and loose, so a little TLC at start up is sometime needed. Jim.
  16. Old Iron, I have seen some "newer " pumps where there is a recess to accept a rubber o-ring. I have not seen a coupling with just metal to metal sealing surfaces. If both surfaces were perfectly true I believe it would seal. But, I have never seen a BE pump that didnt have leaking seals and couplers. Most you would have to dig out just to find the pump. I personally dont like leaks and dont like taking something apart more than once, so I would clean up and check the mating surfaces, make sure they were burr and ding free, then cut some sheet copper and make a gasket for the surface. Glue it
  17. Zorch, I thought those oak trees and scrub in the background looked familiar. I was guessing North County. Jim.
  18. Zorch, First thing to do is get a can of diesel or kerosene and a stiff brush and clean off that pump so dirt doesn't get into the system. I would first drain the tank to get the collected water out. Flush with a little fresh fuel and fill to 2/3 full. The fuel comes in thru the lower pipe which is covered with a rag. Under the rag is the water separator that has a large glass bowl held on with the bail (which is hanging on the pump.) There is a bleeder valve on top of the water separator. From there it goes to the transfer pump where there are 2 spring loaded ball valves. remove the balls an
  19. Also, there are two types of switches. The one for the magneto is open on gas cycle and closes to ground mag. when switched to diesel. The switch for the distributor is just the opposite. Good idea to take cover off the front end of manifold and set in the start mode and check the connections with a circuit tester. The rotary contacts are almost always dirty. Jim.
  20. You will have to let us know if the rebuild solves the dilution problem. I have several pumps with similar problems. I usually just drop the oil, refill with fresh oil and do the job. I have learned to always close the fuel tank valve when shutting down. Jim.
  21. If you paid $187.00 Can. for the rebuild, you got a good deal. The leaking drive seal on the primaries is the main cause of fuel in pump or fuel in engine crankcase. Not too impressed with that ugly yellow paint job, but its what's been done inside that counts. Jim.
  22. I don't know about the "cast box". The fuel separators I have seen look just like a big sediment bowl with a glass cup which is help on with a thumbnut bail to remove and clean out. Maybe show a picture of the box to determine if that is the separator. If you have a doubt about the box, bypass it and go direct to front of the fuel supply pump on the side of the main pump. Jim.
  23. Waterloo, Does your engine have 2 filters, a primary and secondary? I have a TD9 that has only one filter and fuel comes into fuel supply pump at front and exits at rear fitting, then thru filter and to back fitting on fuel rail (where the supply lines to the injectors sit.) Overflow comes out front fitting and back to tank for recycling. The fuel supply pump is the square box on the side of the pump. Fuel from tank will go thru water separator before entering fuel supply pump, if your engine has a water separator. Good Luck, Jim.
  24. Chris, I would try to get that thrown track back on. Will make moving much easier. You will know right away if the tracks are frozen. Crawl under the tractor and crack the oil pan plug on the engine to drain the rain water that has collected inside, then move back to the transmission and rear end plugs and do the same. Don't take the plug out, just loosen it until you see water dripping and leave it to drain off the collected water in the bottom of the housings. I think the guy with the tow tractor will really earn his $100.00. Jim.
  25. Scott, If you are going to tackle the Steering Clutches, first get a mechanic with long skinny fingers and small hands (like ET). And get a big box of Bandaids. You will need them. A dirty, nasty job, but doable. Make sure you have some lifting equipment as the pieces are heavy and clumsy to pull out and put back in. Jim.
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