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crawlernut

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About crawlernut

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  • Birthday 06/07/1957

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    San Luis Obispo, Calif.
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    TD35, T-6, TD6, TD6-61, TD9(3), TD14, TD14A, TD14(141)(2), TD18A, 1952 Ferg.TO30 ,MF 50, 1929 John Deere D, 1947 John Deere D, 1917 Holt 45 hp Harvester Engine, 1911 Reid Oilfield Engine, Antique Flywheel Engines, Antique Garden tractors.

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  1. The pump air filter is just a cast iron canister with felt discs to filter the air moving in /out of the pump crankcase. It pulls air out of air filter housing behind dash. Take the housing apart. clean felts in gas or solvent, dry and reinstall. The fittings were a special type with ends that were soldered to tubing. You can convert the fittings over to compression type with a ferrule, but the high pressure lines may leak or seep. Jim.
  2. If it sputters and smokes on gas cycle, assuming no choke, it could be your bowl float is leaking and not shutting gas off at correct bowl level. Did you check the bowl float when you cleaned the carb? check and clean the needle valve and seat. also there is a little cam that shuts the needle valve off controlled by a little arm off the compression linkage. Make sure that is connected and working. Lube and manually operate the intake butterfly valve shafts as they get sticky and wont close fully. The V shaped flipper needs to be in the up position to start. It sounds like it is getting too much gas on startup. Jim.
  3. Check the gas flow into the bowl from the tank. Pull the drain plug and turn on the gas at the sediment strainer. Should be a steady flow. Catch the gas in a clean bucket and look for water or rust in the gas. clean out tank if necessary. There is also a screen in the inlet on the carb. clean this also. Check the intake butterfly lever on inside of the manifold to make sure it is in the up position. this is where it needs to be to start on gasoline. check the spark plugs for fire and clean up plugs if necessary. drop the oil cup on bottom of air; filter . clean and refill with clean motor oil. good luck, Jim.
  4. Peter, If you have a manual, it will have the diesel fuel system. Basically, fuel tank to water separator (glass bowl below starter). water separator out to inlet primary filter (rearmost filter) out of primary filter to primary pump inlet. Out of primary pump to secondary filter inlet. secondary filter outlet to plunger inlet. then diesel either goes up to injectors or out return line to be recycled into fuel tank via the return line. Send me your email and I will scan the schematic and send to you. Jim.
  5. How I love a Disney ending to a story. On the diesel side, assume every section of the system is dirty. Drain and flush tank. Disconnect and clean all lines to and from pump. Remove filter base and clean out and replace both filters. (maybe one filter on a 6. ) Drain and replace oil in fuel pump. Then open the bleeders on all injectors and with engine running on gas, slowly advance the throttle till pump starts pumping fuel but not trip the compression release lever. This will allow you to bleed the injectors of air while engine is running on gasoline cycle. Jim.
  6. Peter, Soaking with the ATF+ acetone will help to loosen stuck rings. The oil in the wet test will temporarily seal the rings to boost pressure. If rings are stuck, the "juice " may loosen up the rings and increase the pressure even more. WIth the plugs out and juice in the cylinders, spin the engine over several times a day and then reapply the juice, wait till next day and repeat. This approach will also clean up the cylinder walls which may have a light rust coat on them from sitting. Could save you from pulling head. Jim.
  7. I would pull the valve cover and check for sticky valves. Intake, exhaust and starting valves. I like to tap the valves with a soft brass punch. Check clearance on all valves, then do a wet compression test to see if the compression comes up any. Make sure engine is on gas start cycle. Jim.
  8. there is a round plate with 2 bolts on middle of spring which holds spring on pivot pin. Once removed, you can slide spring forward to gain the clearance to pull engine and adapter plate forward and up. Jim.
  9. I usually don't pull the pivot housing. Jack up the frame so the pressure on the equalizer spring is off, pull the cap screws on pivot retainer and slide the spring forward enough so the engine adapter plate and flywheel will clear the clutch housing and engine will slide forward and come out. Jim.
  10. Vic, It is held on with a notched bolt from the bottom of the flipper casting. One position only. Jim.
  11. Vic, On my 14 A, the butterfly valves were stuck tight. I heated the small screws with a small oxy torch and got them out. I cleaned the shafts up and ran a bore brush thru the shaft housing. Reassembled with some Neversieze and its been working since. Some times i need to reach behind the manifold and pull up on the V flipper till it clicks, but then its good to go. I don't start and use the tractors often enough to keep things free and loose, so a little TLC at start up is sometime needed. Jim.
  12. Old Iron, I have seen some "newer " pumps where there is a recess to accept a rubber o-ring. I have not seen a coupling with just metal to metal sealing surfaces. If both surfaces were perfectly true I believe it would seal. But, I have never seen a BE pump that didnt have leaking seals and couplers. Most you would have to dig out just to find the pump. I personally dont like leaks and dont like taking something apart more than once, so I would clean up and check the mating surfaces, make sure they were burr and ding free, then cut some sheet copper and make a gasket for the surface. Glue it down and torque it evenly and hope for the best. Maybe use a copper washer with an ID to match the port size and torque it down. Probably less critical on the return side as the pressure is nil. Let us know how you solve this problem. Jim.
  13. Zorch, I thought those oak trees and scrub in the background looked familiar. I was guessing North County. Jim.
  14. Zorch, First thing to do is get a can of diesel or kerosene and a stiff brush and clean off that pump so dirt doesn't get into the system. I would first drain the tank to get the collected water out. Flush with a little fresh fuel and fill to 2/3 full. The fuel comes in thru the lower pipe which is covered with a rag. Under the rag is the water separator that has a large glass bowl held on with the bail (which is hanging on the pump.) There is a bleeder valve on top of the water separator. From there it goes to the transfer pump where there are 2 spring loaded ball valves. remove the balls and clean them up and reinstall. from the transfer pump it goes to the filter inlet. The thing you called the inlet bleeder ( #3) is actually the filter drain to drain off crud and water before changing the fuel filter. Change the filter and clean out the base. There is a bleeder valve on the top of filter canister. Fuel comes out of the filter and into back side of pump #8). From there it either goes to the injectors (each have a bleeder to clear air bubbles) or it returns to tank from the line on front of pump. (#9) To bleed the system, turn on the valve under the fuel tank, open the bleeder at water separator. When fuel come out with no bubbles, close bleeder. Now open the bleeder on the top of the filter canister and wait for the bubbles to cease, then close the bleeder. Now start the engine on gas, and while its running advance the throttle slowly until you begin to see smoke at the exhaust. Crack open the bleeder on #1 cylinder and wait until the bubbles disappear. Repeat for #2,3 4. Now throw the compression release quickly upward and the engine will run on diesel. If a miss develops, go back thru the injector bleeding procedure. Make sure the air filter has been cleaned and fresh engine oil is put into holder at bottom of filter. Jim.
  15. Also, there are two types of switches. The one for the magneto is open on gas cycle and closes to ground mag. when switched to diesel. The switch for the distributor is just the opposite. Good idea to take cover off the front end of manifold and set in the start mode and check the connections with a circuit tester. The rotary contacts are almost always dirty. Jim.
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