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About crawlernut

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1957

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  • Location
    San Luis Obispo, Calif.
  • Interests
    TD35, T-6, TD6, TD6-61, TD9(3), TD14, TD14A, TD14(141)(2), TD18A, 1952 Ferg.TO30 ,MF 50, 1929 John Deere D, 1947 John Deere D, 1917 Holt 45 hp Harvester Engine, 1911 Reid Oilfield Engine, Antique Flywheel Engines, Antique Garden tractors.

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  1. crawlernut

    T-6 crawler rescue

    Chris, I would try to get that thrown track back on. Will make moving much easier. You will know right away if the tracks are frozen. Crawl under the tractor and crack the oil pan plug on the engine to drain the rain water that has collected inside, then move back to the transmission and rear end plugs and do the same. Don't take the plug out, just loosen it until you see water dripping and leave it to drain off the collected water in the bottom of the housings. I think the guy with the tow tractor will really earn his $100.00. Jim.
  2. crawlernut

    T340 splitting track

    Not sure if your machine uses straight pins or slight taper pins, which would only go in one way. Is pin welded on both ends? On my TD 14, I found a hardened bar a bit smaller than pin diameter. then welded a pipe guide to a piece of 1/2 inch plate. blocked the plate to center the bar on the pin. Then a 16 lb sledge hammer. Be sure to eat your Wheaties and wear safety glasses. Jim.
  3. crawlernut

    TD-14 Valves Needed.

    Also check with H and J Machining in Carrington, ND. Henry makes valve blanks of all sizes and his workmanship is top notch. (701)652-3289. Jim.
  4. crawlernut

    TD14 parts and machines

    Kevin, He must have been a real fan of TD14s to have 6 of them.
  5. crawlernut

    F 6 Magneto

    Jim, That is a nice impulse driver you built there. Jim.
  6. crawlernut

    F 6 Magneto

    Jim, If you are not familiar with the retiming of the mag to engine, I would leave it on the engine. Clean outside good and oil or grease all the oil holes. Use 3 in 1 oil or similar. Remove the cap where the wires come out and clean all the contacts and rotor of all oxidized material. pull point cover and make sure the point contacts are clean and opening and closing completely. Pull the plug wires from cap and make sure they are clean and tight in the cap holes. Do one wire at a time so as not to mix up the wires (firing order). Put the plugs on the ends of the wires and lay them on the frame rail. Turn over the engine and watch the plugs for firing. If no firing, mark the position of the rotor and pull the mag and take it to a mag shop and put it on their bench for further testing. Jim.
  7. Mike, What rod do use to weld up rollers? you could use that set up to grind down the high spots with a hand held grinder, if you were really fussy. Jim.
  8. crawlernut


    Champion 44 or AC 18. 7/8 -18 threads. These have the really long electrode. Jim.
  9. crawlernut

    Dead Cylinder

    Vic, Thanks for the wrap up of this thread. I love the "Disney ending". Also nice photo of your "herd" I like to see dozers with nice, shiney blades. Jim.
  10. crawlernut

    Dead Cylinder

    Vic, dusterpilot and kracked1 have great ideas for holding the start valve in the up or closed position. this will allow you to pull the spring and really get a good twist on the valve stem. Maybe try some penetrant or ATF on the stem and guide to clean that clearance also. Jim.
  11. crawlernut

    Dead Cylinder

    VIc, If you can clamp the valve stem to keep it from dropping into cylinder, Then pull the cotter pin and have a look. Use a shop towel to contain the flying parts, if there are any. I think the cotter either just holds the cap on or holds a threaded adjuster in position so all the valves can be opening the same height, like the adjusters on the rocker arms do for the bigger valves. Use a small measuring tape to check the cap height against the other caps for comparison. when you start to turn the stem to clean the valve face, check another functioning valve to see if it feels the same way turning . Hopefully it is just some carbon on the face or seat and a little elbow grease will get it clean again. Jim.
  12. crawlernut

    Dead Cylinder

    VIc, If the top valve is no 1 and lower photo is #2 and #3, no 1 looks like it is stuck in the open position, with the cotter and cap down into the casting well . That will have to come up to remove the cotter. I would bet the cotter holds an adjustment so the valves open the same amount. My caps didnt have the cotter pin. I used a magnetic wand to lift the caps off the valve springs.If the upper picture was after you sprayed and tapped that valve, there is still something holding that valve in a downward and open position. The valve and cap should look like the others as far as height.. When you reset the arms to operate, you need to check for clearance under the arms and the cap so the valves are fully seated on diesel cycle. I would try something like needle nose vice grips to hold The stem between the spring coils and prevent the stem from falling into cylinder. then put a shop towel over the cap to catch the cap in case it is actually spring loaded and pull the cotter pin. Then count to three and throw (just kidding). Good Luck. Jim.
  13. crawlernut

    Dead Cylinder

    Vic, If the valve is clean and not warped (just stuck) then the penetrant and tapping will get it to seal. You can remove the cap and try turning the stem with small vice grips or similar, but you need to find a way to keep the valve stem up and not drop it down into cylinder chamber. If you can rig up a rod that holds the valve up from the head (thru the sparkplug hole) then the turning of the stem to clean the valve sealing surfaces becomes a lot easier. I have loosened sticky valves several times by spraying and tapping and they always resealed well enough to start and run on diesel. Your valve sounds like it may have some carbon or crud on the faces which is preventing a good seal. Jim.
  14. crawlernut

    Dead Cylinder

    Vic, Sorry for the late reply. Work is very busy and I had some family medical issues to attend to. On the start valve, all you can do is get the stem loosened up so the valve comes back up into it's seat on diesel cycle. Could have some carbon or other gunk on the face that prevents a complete seal. You could try to borrow a borescope to see if you can see the valve head and face to check for clean mating surfaces. Possible the valve has warped due to the heat of combustion on an always opened valve. If the spark plug hole still blows air on the diesel cycle, you may need to resort to pulling the head and have a shop run thru the valves to make sure all are seating correctly. Probably not the best news you have heard. Jim.
  15. crawlernut

    Dead Cylinder

    Vic, Check the starting valve first for sealing. If it blows air out the #1 sparkplug hole when cranked on diesel cycle then the starting valve is leaking. Starting valves are under the rocker arms so you need to remove the valve cover so you will need to remove the hood . The valves are set down in a recessed area. You will need to remove the rocker arm assembly to get access to the starting valves. Often times they are gunked up and can be freed by using penetrating oil and light tapping on the stem under the cap. THe service manual shows a closeup of the assembly that makes the teardown easier. Good luck, Jim.