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About crawlernut

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1957

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    San Luis Obispo, Calif.
  • Interests
    TD35, T-6, TD6, TD6-61, TD9(3), TD14, TD14A, TD14(141)(2), TD18A, 1952 Ferg.TO30 ,MF 50, 1929 John Deere D, 1947 John Deere D, 1917 Holt 45 hp Harvester Engine, 1911 Reid Oilfield Engine, Antique Flywheel Engines, Antique Garden tractors.

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  1. I usually don't pull the pivot housing. Jack up the frame so the pressure on the equalizer spring is off, pull the cap screws on pivot retainer and slide the spring forward enough so the engine adapter plate and flywheel will clear the clutch housing and engine will slide forward and come out. Jim.
  2. Vic, It is held on with a notched bolt from the bottom of the flipper casting. One position only. Jim.
  3. Vic, On my 14 A, the butterfly valves were stuck tight. I heated the small screws with a small oxy torch and got them out. I cleaned the shafts up and ran a bore brush thru the shaft housing. Reassembled with some Neversieze and its been working since. Some times i need to reach behind the manifold and pull up on the V flipper till it clicks, but then its good to go. I don't start and use the tractors often enough to keep things free and loose, so a little TLC at start up is sometime needed. Jim.
  4. Old Iron, I have seen some "newer " pumps where there is a recess to accept a rubber o-ring. I have not seen a coupling with just metal to metal sealing surfaces. If both surfaces were perfectly true I believe it would seal. But, I have never seen a BE pump that didnt have leaking seals and couplers. Most you would have to dig out just to find the pump. I personally dont like leaks and dont like taking something apart more than once, so I would clean up and check the mating surfaces, make sure they were burr and ding free, then cut some sheet copper and make a gasket for the surface. Glue it down and torque it evenly and hope for the best. Maybe use a copper washer with an ID to match the port size and torque it down. Probably less critical on the return side as the pressure is nil. Let us know how you solve this problem. Jim.
  5. Zorch, I thought those oak trees and scrub in the background looked familiar. I was guessing North County. Jim.
  6. Zorch, First thing to do is get a can of diesel or kerosene and a stiff brush and clean off that pump so dirt doesn't get into the system. I would first drain the tank to get the collected water out. Flush with a little fresh fuel and fill to 2/3 full. The fuel comes in thru the lower pipe which is covered with a rag. Under the rag is the water separator that has a large glass bowl held on with the bail (which is hanging on the pump.) There is a bleeder valve on top of the water separator. From there it goes to the transfer pump where there are 2 spring loaded ball valves. remove the balls and clean them up and reinstall. from the transfer pump it goes to the filter inlet. The thing you called the inlet bleeder ( #3) is actually the filter drain to drain off crud and water before changing the fuel filter. Change the filter and clean out the base. There is a bleeder valve on the top of filter canister. Fuel comes out of the filter and into back side of pump #8). From there it either goes to the injectors (each have a bleeder to clear air bubbles) or it returns to tank from the line on front of pump. (#9) To bleed the system, turn on the valve under the fuel tank, open the bleeder at water separator. When fuel come out with no bubbles, close bleeder. Now open the bleeder on the top of the filter canister and wait for the bubbles to cease, then close the bleeder. Now start the engine on gas, and while its running advance the throttle slowly until you begin to see smoke at the exhaust. Crack open the bleeder on #1 cylinder and wait until the bubbles disappear. Repeat for #2,3 4. Now throw the compression release quickly upward and the engine will run on diesel. If a miss develops, go back thru the injector bleeding procedure. Make sure the air filter has been cleaned and fresh engine oil is put into holder at bottom of filter. Jim.
  7. Also, there are two types of switches. The one for the magneto is open on gas cycle and closes to ground mag. when switched to diesel. The switch for the distributor is just the opposite. Good idea to take cover off the front end of manifold and set in the start mode and check the connections with a circuit tester. The rotary contacts are almost always dirty. Jim.
  8. You will have to let us know if the rebuild solves the dilution problem. I have several pumps with similar problems. I usually just drop the oil, refill with fresh oil and do the job. I have learned to always close the fuel tank valve when shutting down. Jim.
  9. If you paid $187.00 Can. for the rebuild, you got a good deal. The leaking drive seal on the primaries is the main cause of fuel in pump or fuel in engine crankcase. Not too impressed with that ugly yellow paint job, but its what's been done inside that counts. Jim.
  10. I don't know about the "cast box". The fuel separators I have seen look just like a big sediment bowl with a glass cup which is help on with a thumbnut bail to remove and clean out. Maybe show a picture of the box to determine if that is the separator. If you have a doubt about the box, bypass it and go direct to front of the fuel supply pump on the side of the main pump. Jim.
  11. Waterloo, Does your engine have 2 filters, a primary and secondary? I have a TD9 that has only one filter and fuel comes into fuel supply pump at front and exits at rear fitting, then thru filter and to back fitting on fuel rail (where the supply lines to the injectors sit.) Overflow comes out front fitting and back to tank for recycling. The fuel supply pump is the square box on the side of the pump. Fuel from tank will go thru water separator before entering fuel supply pump, if your engine has a water separator. Good Luck, Jim.
  12. Chris, I would try to get that thrown track back on. Will make moving much easier. You will know right away if the tracks are frozen. Crawl under the tractor and crack the oil pan plug on the engine to drain the rain water that has collected inside, then move back to the transmission and rear end plugs and do the same. Don't take the plug out, just loosen it until you see water dripping and leave it to drain off the collected water in the bottom of the housings. I think the guy with the tow tractor will really earn his $100.00. Jim.
  13. Not sure if your machine uses straight pins or slight taper pins, which would only go in one way. Is pin welded on both ends? On my TD 14, I found a hardened bar a bit smaller than pin diameter. then welded a pipe guide to a piece of 1/2 inch plate. blocked the plate to center the bar on the pin. Then a 16 lb sledge hammer. Be sure to eat your Wheaties and wear safety glasses. Jim.
  14. Also check with H and J Machining in Carrington, ND. Henry makes valve blanks of all sizes and his workmanship is top notch. (701)652-3289. Jim.
  15. Kevin, He must have been a real fan of TD14s to have 6 of them.
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