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crawlernut

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About crawlernut

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  • Birthday 06/07/1957

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    San Luis Obispo, Calif.
  • Interests
    TD35, T-6, TD6, TD6-61, TD9(3), TD14, TD14A, TD14(141)(2), TD18A, 1952 Ferg.TO30 ,MF 50, 1929 John Deere D, 1947 John Deere D, 1917 Holt 45 hp Harvester Engine, 1911 Reid Oilfield Engine, Antique Flywheel Engines, Antique Garden tractors.

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  1. You will have to let us know if the rebuild solves the dilution problem. I have several pumps with similar problems. I usually just drop the oil, refill with fresh oil and do the job. I have learned to always close the fuel tank valve when shutting down. Jim.
  2. If you paid $187.00 Can. for the rebuild, you got a good deal. The leaking drive seal on the primaries is the main cause of fuel in pump or fuel in engine crankcase. Not too impressed with that ugly yellow paint job, but its what's been done inside that counts. Jim.
  3. I don't know about the "cast box". The fuel separators I have seen look just like a big sediment bowl with a glass cup which is help on with a thumbnut bail to remove and clean out. Maybe show a picture of the box to determine if that is the separator. If you have a doubt about the box, bypass it and go direct to front of the fuel supply pump on the side of the main pump. Jim.
  4. Waterloo, Does your engine have 2 filters, a primary and secondary? I have a TD9 that has only one filter and fuel comes into fuel supply pump at front and exits at rear fitting, then thru filter and to back fitting on fuel rail (where the supply lines to the injectors sit.) Overflow comes out front fitting and back to tank for recycling. The fuel supply pump is the square box on the side of the pump. Fuel from tank will go thru water separator before entering fuel supply pump, if your engine has a water separator. Good Luck, Jim.
  5. Chris, I would try to get that thrown track back on. Will make moving much easier. You will know right away if the tracks are frozen. Crawl under the tractor and crack the oil pan plug on the engine to drain the rain water that has collected inside, then move back to the transmission and rear end plugs and do the same. Don't take the plug out, just loosen it until you see water dripping and leave it to drain off the collected water in the bottom of the housings. I think the guy with the tow tractor will really earn his $100.00. Jim.
  6. Not sure if your machine uses straight pins or slight taper pins, which would only go in one way. Is pin welded on both ends? On my TD 14, I found a hardened bar a bit smaller than pin diameter. then welded a pipe guide to a piece of 1/2 inch plate. blocked the plate to center the bar on the pin. Then a 16 lb sledge hammer. Be sure to eat your Wheaties and wear safety glasses. Jim.
  7. Also check with H and J Machining in Carrington, ND. Henry makes valve blanks of all sizes and his workmanship is top notch. (701)652-3289. Jim.
  8. Kevin, He must have been a real fan of TD14s to have 6 of them.
  9. Jim, That is a nice impulse driver you built there. Jim.
  10. Jim, If you are not familiar with the retiming of the mag to engine, I would leave it on the engine. Clean outside good and oil or grease all the oil holes. Use 3 in 1 oil or similar. Remove the cap where the wires come out and clean all the contacts and rotor of all oxidized material. pull point cover and make sure the point contacts are clean and opening and closing completely. Pull the plug wires from cap and make sure they are clean and tight in the cap holes. Do one wire at a time so as not to mix up the wires (firing order). Put the plugs on the ends of the wires and lay them on the frame rail. Turn over the engine and watch the plugs for firing. If no firing, mark the position of the rotor and pull the mag and take it to a mag shop and put it on their bench for further testing. Jim.
  11. Mike, What rod do use to weld up rollers? you could use that set up to grind down the high spots with a hand held grinder, if you were really fussy. Jim.
  12. Champion 44 or AC 18. 7/8 -18 threads. These have the really long electrode. Jim.
  13. Vic, Thanks for the wrap up of this thread. I love the "Disney ending". Also nice photo of your "herd" I like to see dozers with nice, shiney blades. Jim.
  14. Vic, dusterpilot and kracked1 have great ideas for holding the start valve in the up or closed position. this will allow you to pull the spring and really get a good twist on the valve stem. Maybe try some penetrant or ATF on the stem and guide to clean that clearance also. Jim.
  15. VIc, If you can clamp the valve stem to keep it from dropping into cylinder, Then pull the cotter pin and have a look. Use a shop towel to contain the flying parts, if there are any. I think the cotter either just holds the cap on or holds a threaded adjuster in position so all the valves can be opening the same height, like the adjusters on the rocker arms do for the bigger valves. Use a small measuring tape to check the cap height against the other caps for comparison. when you start to turn the stem to clean the valve face, check another functioning valve to see if it feels the same way turning . Hopefully it is just some carbon on the face or seat and a little elbow grease will get it clean again. Jim.
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