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About crawlernut

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1957

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  • Location
    San Luis Obispo, Calif.
  • Interests
    TD35, T-6, TD6, TD6-61, TD9(3), TD14, TD14A, TD14(141)(2), TD18A, 1952 Ferg.TO30 ,MF 50, 1929 John Deere D, 1947 John Deere D, 1917 Holt 45 hp Harvester Engine, 1911 Reid Oilfield Engine, Antique Flywheel Engines, Antique Garden tractors.

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  1. T6 front crank pulley removal

    Mike, Thanks for the specs. After cleanup want to see if cam is still within usable limits. On the pulley, I will get the rosebud after it. Probably need to preheat for reinstallation also? Jim.
  2. T6 front crank pulley removal

    Thanks for the reply. I put a heavy plate behind the flange and a large 2 jaw puller and cranked it up tight. Hit the sides with a brass hammer and nothing yet. Flooded it with penetrant. Have not used the heat yet,, was worried about cracking the hub. Still have it under tension. Dont see any set screws to hold it fast. Jim.
  3. I need some ideas on pulling the front crank pulley. I need to change out the front seal. Also anybody know the camshaft lobe lift on the c-248 engine? I want to check it for wear and clean up some rust and corrosion on the lobes. Thanks, Jim.
  4. 1936 td 40

    W 400, Glad to hear you got the machine running. That is a nice way to end the year and begin the new one. Jim.
  5. UD-18 questions- won't run on Diesel

    Sounds very similar to a "drillers wheel" used on the old oilfield engines. The engine RPM was controlled by this setup which looked like a old style clothes line with two pulleys and a rope connecting them. the remote operator pulled on one rope to increase RPM for work cycle, then pulled the other side to return back to idle. Jim.
  6. Firing order for TD- engines

    My TD 14 is 1-3-4-2. Firing order is cast into the side of the block just below the spark plugs for easy reference. My Holt engine is 1-2-4-3, and the #1 cylinder is at the rear of the engine. Has a unique sound to it.
  7. TD 6 compression release lever

    Hank, All good suggestions here to check and confirm. I kept looking at the linkage behind the manifold and I couldnt see the plate on the vertical rod that goes up to the head to open the start valves. THis plate sets between the "V" flipper that opens and closes the main manifold butterfly valves. If this plate is missing, there is no mechanism to close the main butterfly valve on gas cycle and open them when you convert over to diesel cycle. It may be there and I just dont see it from the angle of the photo. Keep up the good work, Jim.
  8. UD-18 questions- won't run on Diesel

    I would have you get a shaft tachometer to hold on the ends of the shaft to get the proper RPM to run the saw blade. You have a big reduction from the PTO pulley to the driven pulley, about a 3:1 reduction. So you would need to run the engine PTO shaft at 1500 RPM to get a driven shaft speed of 500 RPM. That would put the UD18 at or beyond its max RPM rating. Need to play with the pulley diameters to get the correct saw RPM at the engines power RPM (1200 to 1300 RPM) Jim.
  9. How is the fuel pressure on the pump gauge? should be in the green or RUN zone. Also, outside temps play a big part in the warmup procedure. Try starting in the warmest time of day. You can also use a heat gun or hairdryer to get more heat into the intake and cylinders. Consider yourself lucky. engine is loose and the pony runs. That is 95% of the game with old Cats.
  10. Although I will probably be stoned for responding, I would suggest the following: If there is a way to get some oil or ATF into the cylinders, even if you need to pour a cup of engine oil in the intake manifold inlet, I would try. Some of these crawlers had a small priming cup on the intake that you could use to add oil. Then run the pony with compression release off then on for 5-10 minutes before you put the fuel to it. You may need to have the cylinders heated up hotter to get it to bark off. If the fuel has been in a long time, I would drain and refill with fresh fuel and change the filters. Rebleed the entire system. Dont hate me for knowing this information. Jim.
  11. TD6 head gasket

    Ken, You may have a fuel pressure gauge on the dash, as there is a crimped piece of tubing coming off the pump where a gauge would be. Looks to be disconnected and crimped over on the end of the tubing. On the injectors letting fuel into cylinders, could be some rust or debris from the pump or lines is holding the injector open and letting unpressured and therefore unatomized fuel into chamber. This will cause the "slobbering" or wet stacking. Or the rack may not be coming back into the off position, which will push fuel up to the injectors. Jim.
  12. TD6 head gasket

    Ken, On the diesel in the pump, sounds like the seal on the primary pump is bad. It will allow fuel to enter the pump main housing. If the drive seal on the front of the pump also leaks, it will leak the overfilled diesel down inside the front cover and into the engine crankcase. diluting the engine oil. This is a somewhat common problem with these pumps and the seals have become hard to get. In the last couple of weeks, someone posted some places that still sell the seal kits, or a conversion kit that will work. If you have the timing and gas ready to start the engine, you can crack the fuel throttle while it runs on gas and bleed the injectors at the same time. While it runs on gas, check the pump fuel pressure gauge on the pump to make sure it has enough pressure to fire it off once you switch over to diesel cycle. Jim.
  13. TD6 head gasket

    That looks like the area east of Paso RObles. From the hills and wheat/barley crop. Where are you located? Jim.
  14. td14 cab

    Would like to put a cab on one of my girls, but this one is just too far away. Jim.