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About crawlernut

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1957

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  • Location
    San Luis Obispo, Calif.
  • Interests
    TD35, T-6, TD6, TD6-61, TD9(3), TD14, TD14A, TD14(141)(2), TD18A, 1952 Ferg.TO30 ,MF 50, 1929 John Deere D, 1947 John Deere D, 1917 Holt 45 hp Harvester Engine, 1911 Reid Oilfield Engine, Antique Flywheel Engines, Antique Garden tractors.

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  1. crawlernut

    Looking for radiator for 1959 TD-15

    Bart, Check with F P Smith in Suisun, Calif or General Gear in Idaho. Phone number should be in the stickies up top. On the temp radiator. you could rig up a small lube drum (30 gallon) with some pipe fittings and connect the hoses for a temp run. Dont run the engine with no coolant as the heads are sensitive to cracking if they get too hot. Make sure the water level is above the top of the head. Jim.
  2. crawlernut

    TD-14 Motor Transplant?

    Depending on which clutch you are reinstalling, I would clean and lube the pressure plate, check the throwout bearing and replace the clutch plate if worn. Check the splines on the imput shaft for burrs and replace the pilot bearing. This will prevent a redo of the swap if something goes bad after the swap. Also check to see if the exhaust is different, left side to right side. Jim.
  3. crawlernut

    TD-9 series B Steering clutch problem

    Looks like something has been chewing on the fiber disc lower left. Maybe that was you trying to wedge out that disc. I would try pressure or steam washing the whole housing, then tapping with a brass hammer on center hub to try and get some of the stuck plates loose. I dropped mine on a bed of 2x4s on shop floor until the plates came out. Others have used an air hammer set low to put some vibration to the rust to break it loose. Check the parts diagram to see what parts need replacing. Try to save the clutch discs if possible.Check the springs for height and force to contract. The drum can be turned if not too badly scored or pitted. If not, you can get replacements at General Gear or FP Smith in Cordelia, Calif. Since you will be checking the good side, now would be a good time to pull it out and compare its parts to the damaged one. Take pictures and notes on disassembly and remember to index the drive flange. Jim.
  4. crawlernut

    TD-9 series B Steering clutch problem

    After removing and repairing the bad side, pulling and inspecting the good side will be a walk in the park. This is such a nasty, dirty job, I feel it's best to make sure all is correct before you button it up. Make sure you mark (index) the drum to the flange before you unbolt the clutch drum for removal so you get it back in the proper position. Couple of punch marks with yellow paint works well. Also check the seals and lower bearings/bushings on the vertical shafts as these are often not maintained ( not greased) Jim.
  5. crawlernut

    TD-9 series B Steering clutch problem

    BB, you will need some clearance to remove the housing and get at the coupler bolts inside. If the spring will compress, you could build a plate to hold the bearing in the clutch drum to give you the room you need to get the coupler out. Will be some tight quarters in there, maybe some custom modified wrenches and tools. Jim.
  6. crawlernut

    TD-9 series B Steering clutch problem

    If both clutches have tension against the drum, The left one (without grease tube) the throwout bearing is too far out. Usually means the fiber discs have broken loose and fallen in between the metal drive plates, locking up the clutch in engaged position. Will require the removal of the left side drum for disassembly and inspection. You probably would be wise to pull the other side at the same time to check the condition of the fiber plates on the good side. You dont want to have to dig in here after a short run time. Make sure you have a big box of bandaids handy as you will skin a few knuckles on this operation. Good idea to check the brake band condition at the same time. Jim.
  7. crawlernut

    Injector pump knock

    Josh, Take the side cover off and look inside. May be a governor flyweight is coming loose and hitting the cover. Would probably be making noise on gas cycle also, but easy to check. When you change the oil, check the bottom of the drain pan for metal or metallic look. Could be a rod insert bearing is starting to get loose. How is the oil pressure cold and hot? The diesels will knock a bit if changed over to diesel too quick. After you determined the governor is not about to let loose, Try a start with a long warm up on gas before converting to diesel and see if that quiets things down. Jim.
  8. crawlernut

    I got a new TD 6

    Josh, If the hourmeter is working, you just scored a very low hour machine. Probably about time for its first oil change. Jim.
  9. crawlernut

    I got a new TD 6

    Josh, Check the hour meter on Magneto drive below the generator. Also looks to have an extra gauge on the dash. It may be a clock type hour meter. Tin looks straight and machine was well cared for. Nice Find. Jim.
  10. crawlernut

    Old tractors, new oils

    Most of the crawlers I get had been using a 50/50 mix of gear oil and rainwater. I use Rotella 15-40 in all the engines and it seems to do a good job keeping things clean and slippery. There will be lots of different opinions on this topic. Jim.
  11. crawlernut

    Diesel in oil - TD15 151

    Tognot, As mentioned, the seal on the charge pump is leaking . This will fill up the fuel pump crankcase. Then the front drive seal on the main pump housing inside the front drive cover will let the fuel/oil mixture into the engine crankcase thru the gear cover. If you open the oil level check valve on the fuel pump, you will find it way overfilled. The oil will be thinned out with diesel. Replacement of front seal on pump will require removal of pump assembly from engine . Jim.
  12. crawlernut

    TD 6 compression release lever

    As Gaby mentioned above (or below) Take the manifold assembly to your bench (somewhere warm) and clean up and lube the shafts that operate the butterfly valves. You should take the front cover off the manifold and check the springs on the rotary switch (where the wire comes out) clean up the contacts in there. Since your engine has a magneto, this is a grounding switch to ground out the magneto on diesel cycle. It should be open circuit on gas cycle (V pointed up) and a closed circuit in diesel cycle (V shaped lever pointed down). I would recheck the spark timing to be sure. With plugs out, bring #1 cylinder to TDC on compression. You can check this by putting you finger over #1 plug hole and when you feel air pushing out it is coming up on compression stroke. Now pull the magneto cover off and check to see that the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire tower ( or just before it) put the #1 wire on the removed plug from #1 cylinder and ground the plug to the block or frame. As the engine is pulled over TDC, the mag will click and you will see a spark at the plug gap. If you have spark, do the same for next wire, which should go to #3 cylinder, then #4 cylinder, then #2 cylinder. If when you pull the cap, the rotor is pointed to some other position, Pull the magneto from engine and rotate the drive cup until the rotor is pointed at the #1 wire tower. The magneto drive flange has 2 flat bars that need to go into the 2 grooves on the driving flange on the front cover. Make sure these line up properly before tightening the bolts If your decompression is not set to start (gas) cycle, no compression will be made at spark plug holes. So if no pressure is felt at #1 hole, check to make sure the lever is set in the start position before you try to determine the spark timing matter. Try posting a picture of the lever and linkage so we can see what you are dealing with. Good Luck, Jim.
  13. crawlernut

    Chaining up blades

    I would double a heavy chain from lift cylinder anchor on each side. set the blade up high to help with the chain angle and wire the hooks tight so they wont come unhooked on a bump. Goggles might help keep that red dirt out of the eyes. Dont run it over the radiator as it will break something more valuable. Jim.
  14. crawlernut

    TD 6 lights

    I have seen them in good shape (like these) for $100 to $140 per pair. Poor ones without the guard screen for $35 each. Do they have good reflectors and wiring inside? That will help in the pricing. Jim.
  15. crawlernut

    T6 front crank pulley removal

    Mike, Thanks for the specs. After cleanup want to see if cam is still within usable limits. On the pulley, I will get the rosebud after it. Probably need to preheat for reinstallation also? Jim.