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About crawlernut

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1957

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  • Location
    San Luis Obispo, Calif.
  • Interests
    TD35, T-6, TD6, TD6-61, TD9(3), TD14, TD14A, TD14(141)(2), TD18A, 1952 Ferg.TO30 ,MF 50, 1929 John Deere D, 1947 John Deere D, 1917 Holt 45 hp Harvester Engine, 1911 Reid Oilfield Engine, Antique Flywheel Engines, Antique Garden tractors.

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  1. C

    chevy43, Thanks for your interest. Sorry, the holidays have been busy and I have not been on the site much. What info do you need on the crawlers? I can send info. I'm not too clever with the computer stuff. I can also meet you at yard so you can take a closer look at them. Let me know how I can help you, Jim.

  2. Hi,

    I'm interested in TD9 and TD18 stuff.



    209 786 7999

    1. crawlernut


      What info do you need on the units? I can get the info to you. Let me know. Thanks,Jim.

  3. Hardtail, Most are projects. The TD14 is going to a local museum. A couple of the TD 9s are runners as well as a 141. Even a twin stacker but too far the King to travel. Some parts machines also. Just beginning to get the word out to see if there may be some interest. Thanks for the reply. Jim
  4. Brian, Sorry to hear of your situation. I know you will overcome your new set of challenges. I have always appreciated the advice you offered. Take good care of yourself. Jim
  5. I have decided I have too many projects for retirement, so have decided to let some go. check list under avatar and email me here for details, Not able to ship. Collectors are welcome, scrappers are not. Thanks, Jim.
  6. The pump air filter is just a cast iron canister with felt discs to filter the air moving in /out of the pump crankcase. It pulls air out of air filter housing behind dash. Take the housing apart. clean felts in gas or solvent, dry and reinstall. The fittings were a special type with ends that were soldered to tubing. You can convert the fittings over to compression type with a ferrule, but the high pressure lines may leak or seep. Jim.
  7. If it sputters and smokes on gas cycle, assuming no choke, it could be your bowl float is leaking and not shutting gas off at correct bowl level. Did you check the bowl float when you cleaned the carb? check and clean the needle valve and seat. also there is a little cam that shuts the needle valve off controlled by a little arm off the compression linkage. Make sure that is connected and working. Lube and manually operate the intake butterfly valve shafts as they get sticky and wont close fully. The V shaped flipper needs to be in the up position to start. It sounds like it is getting to
  8. Check the gas flow into the bowl from the tank. Pull the drain plug and turn on the gas at the sediment strainer. Should be a steady flow. Catch the gas in a clean bucket and look for water or rust in the gas. clean out tank if necessary. There is also a screen in the inlet on the carb. clean this also. Check the intake butterfly lever on inside of the manifold to make sure it is in the up position. this is where it needs to be to start on gasoline. check the spark plugs for fire and clean up plugs if necessary. drop the oil cup on bottom of air; filter . clean and refill with
  9. Peter, If you have a manual, it will have the diesel fuel system. Basically, fuel tank to water separator (glass bowl below starter). water separator out to inlet primary filter (rearmost filter) out of primary filter to primary pump inlet. Out of primary pump to secondary filter inlet. secondary filter outlet to plunger inlet. then diesel either goes up to injectors or out return line to be recycled into fuel tank via the return line. Send me your email and I will scan the schematic and send to you. Jim.
  10. How I love a Disney ending to a story. On the diesel side, assume every section of the system is dirty. Drain and flush tank. Disconnect and clean all lines to and from pump. Remove filter base and clean out and replace both filters. (maybe one filter on a 6. ) Drain and replace oil in fuel pump. Then open the bleeders on all injectors and with engine running on gas, slowly advance the throttle till pump starts pumping fuel but not trip the compression release lever. This will allow you to bleed the injectors of air while engine is running on gasoline cycle. Jim.
  11. Peter, Soaking with the ATF+ acetone will help to loosen stuck rings. The oil in the wet test will temporarily seal the rings to boost pressure. If rings are stuck, the "juice " may loosen up the rings and increase the pressure even more. WIth the plugs out and juice in the cylinders, spin the engine over several times a day and then reapply the juice, wait till next day and repeat. This approach will also clean up the cylinder walls which may have a light rust coat on them from sitting. Could save you from pulling head. Jim.
  12. I would pull the valve cover and check for sticky valves. Intake, exhaust and starting valves. I like to tap the valves with a soft brass punch. Check clearance on all valves, then do a wet compression test to see if the compression comes up any. Make sure engine is on gas start cycle. Jim.
  13. there is a round plate with 2 bolts on middle of spring which holds spring on pivot pin. Once removed, you can slide spring forward to gain the clearance to pull engine and adapter plate forward and up. Jim.
  14. I usually don't pull the pivot housing. Jack up the frame so the pressure on the equalizer spring is off, pull the cap screws on pivot retainer and slide the spring forward enough so the engine adapter plate and flywheel will clear the clutch housing and engine will slide forward and come out. Jim.
  15. Vic, It is held on with a notched bolt from the bottom of the flipper casting. One position only. Jim.
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