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bkorth

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Everything posted by bkorth

  1. Tractor pulling seems to be dominated by IH and JD these days, I enjoyed it more when it was a little more colorful. Unless it is in collectable condition, an Allis 210, 220 or even a D21 should be had in your $$$ range and can be made to run, AND be something different.
  2. Just curious, do you have enough power to spin out in first year in the heaviest class? The reason I ask is that 18.4s would be easier to find and would gain you some weight also, or is there a tire size limit?
  3. bkorth

    3900 disk

    The hitch should be leveled to the tractor drawbar first by turning the turnbuckle, do this with the disk sitting on the ground on a hard level surface. I'm pretty sure you turn the crank clockwise or "in" to lower the front if you can't get it far enough there are three holes in the back where the crank pins to the axle, move it to the rear hole and start over with the crank, they are a good disk once you get it leveled out, I have a 30ft narrow spacing with a double basket mounted on it and I had to do some engineering to make it run level. Hope this helps.
  4. its only money, they print more of it every day
  5. Most of the problem with them is the threads in the block that's welded to the arm get loose, I figured out a way to tighten that up.....................
  6. Diesel Machinery Inc. Sioux Falls, Sd. (605)-336-0411. They are a Komatsu dealer but still get parts for Dresser, I recently got new seals for my 515CH bucket pins from them. How are the pins? You probably already know this but you're going to have to freeze the new bushings and press them in with a porta power, they fit TIGHT. The dogbone bushings are easier to deal with.
  7. bkorth

    5488

    Isn't that the same axle used on the Magnums, I've got a 7110 with over 10k hours and it's still tight, just needs a grease gun regularly like anything else.
  8. I don't know what is worn out on your current grinder but I will just throw this out there, cattle will do better on rolled corn vs ground or whole kernel, whether it's dry or high moisture. It's probably been 15 years ago already that I bought an 1150 grinder, stripped it down, hauled the hammer mill and intake auger to the scrapper and mounted a used 36 inch henke roller mill on it. I had to build an intake auger because the original was too short with the mill being centered on the frame and I wanted to be able to hoist a truck into it, it just runs with an orbit motor. I also had to build an auger under the mill to the tank but it works great, you can roll just a tank full from a bin, wagon, truck, or leave the discharge on and make a pile with it. Works like a grinder only better for cattle feed, I've made piles of 10,000 bushels of high moisture corn with it and then tarped it.
  9. Dad bought an 885 mfd new in 1989, put 10,000 hrs on it under a loader and we never had any trouble with axle bearings.
  10. It is truly amazing how badly some people can abuse a piece of equipment.
  11. 66 series tractors with factory cabs did not have grab handles, to me it would just be something to bump your leg on when getting in and the holes in the hood for them were covered up by the cowl cover. The metal cover under the seat was replaced by a formed rubber cover on factory cabs, it actually goes under the seat suspension and forms around all three sides and the floor mat goes over the top of it, likely unavailable.
  12. That's interesting, I had a New Holland FR 9060 chopper with the cursor 13 in it with that same filter. The mechanic in back said tell the parts guy that you want just the cartridge not the whole d@&n thing , they had them separate but you had to ask for it or they would sell you both.
  13. The guy that farms across the fence from me actually pulls a 12 row 800 with an 856, narrow front, no cab no weights, no duals and he tills everything. Granted there is no fertilizer on the planter, I think tanks on the planter would be the end of using that tractor but it seems to work fine for him and he does have some pretty good hills. Not sure why he uses it as he has a 1256 and a 1456 that he could put on it, he's got some really sharp 56's.
  14. If you are out of compliance they can call for reimbursement for the previous 3 years farm program payments, I got a letter this spring saying that I had been randomly selected for a spot check on a certain farm, luckily I had put enough manure on to pass the test, and yes it can also come from an unfriendly neighbor. Most of those found out of compliance get a slap on the wrist the first time and put on the naughty list but then you are automatically checked again for the next 3 years, if you're out of compliance again then it gets ugly.
  15. Well the book they read says you are allowed 2 tons of topsoil loss per acre per year, if you till bean stubble after covering it with enough manure and enough of it is still visible on the surface then you are okay, they literally lay a string on the ground about 20feet long with marks on it and there has to be a piece of residue or manure at every mark or you are out of compliance, it's a joke but somebody with a college education figured it out and like I always say, everybody needs a job.
  16. Every soil works different so what works for one person in Kansas won't work for someone in Minnesota and the same soil in the same two states won't work up the same due to differences in climate so you have to do what works for you in your area. We are limited somewhat by the government in what we can do as far as tillage, turning over bean stubble with anything will put you out of compliance unless you put on a certain amount of manure. Corn stalks are a different story, most are planted to soybeans via no till and it works well here. Around here corn on corn is anywhere from double disked in the fall followed by another in the spring, to disk rippers to disk chisels. Some have tried no till corn on corn, sometimes it works but usually ends badly, moldboard plows are a no no around here unless you want trouble with the Fsa office. Vertical tillage tools in our hills take massive amounts of horsepower if you want a machine big enough to get anything done. I used to use a ripper in the fall on corn stalks going back to corn but switched to double disking in the fall because it took less time and fuel for the same effect. Also the ripper left the ground too loose for good seed to soil contact in the spring even after a leveling pass with the disk in the spring. This might sound strange but it works good for "me" "here", I use a 3900 narrow spacing disk on the first pass in the fall which really sizes the stalks up and covers some, followed by a second pass with a 340 disk that does a pretty good job of turning it over, then hit it again with the 3900 in the spring and plant, this is in 250 bushel stalks, good sharp blades is the key.
  17. Mercedes truck engines use a canister filter that I actually find pretty handy, it sits on top of the engine with the lid up so there's no mess removing it, wipe out the can and stick the new one in.
  18. I'm just going by the fact that the goodyear power torque tires are likely original and there's no water filter
  19. I would bet that it's a low hour tractor
  20. Absolutely nothing wrong with an 856, but the 1066 will be easier to find a good one, simply because there are tons of them around. There is no such thing as too much power and some day maybe you will expand and be glad you have a little bigger tractor.
  21. The first tractor I used to cultivate with was a 574 with a 4 row lilliston, I swear you could cultivate corn planted around a flag pole with that thing. I've done a lot of cultivating with the 1066 in my avatar and it's by far my number one choice, as far as visibility goes all I've ever watched is the bolts on the front axle and lead left or right of the row on sidehills, had a factory cab on it for 12 years and worked just as good. I used a 4 row , 6 row 30, and a late model 8 row 30 buffalo, that is a heavy machine and it handles it fine in the field with a full rack of weights but going down the road can get interesting. One thing to remember is a heavier tractor will hold the row better on hills but it sounds like you are mostly flat so I guess that won't matter to you. Guys around here used to sidedress corn with a cultivator and saddle tanks on the tractor, talk about no visibility, couldn't even see the front tires, drive by the pointer on the hood. Some used a cultivision mirror to see if the cultivator was centered on the row. I'm not sure if a guidance hitch would work for you anyway if you are starting when the corn is small as they use wands that bump the row and move the hitch over with hydraulics, small corn may not activate it, not sure, never used one. The 8 row 30 buffalo belongs to a neighbor and when I asked about renting it to clean up some weedy beans he said sure it's hooked up to my 8920 and has a guidance system just take the outfit, I politely said no just unhook it and I'll put my 10 on it. There is no doubt that when you get used to a certain tractor on a cultivator it is definitely an adjustment to use a different one, that said my dad could cultivate contour rows on hills with whatever tractor he wanted, 1600 Oliver, 1755 Oliver, 1086, 5140mfd, and a 7110. His only complaint about the 1086 and 7110 was that the fuel tanks were too big, no excuse to quit.
  22. That's the one, if they think there is any chance at all of selling someone a piece of equipment and the buyer isn't sure about it, it'll be parked in their yard for a demo within a day or two, tractor, combine, forage harvester, skid steer , payloader ,baler, doesn't matter what it is.
  23. There is a big New Holland dealer and I mean big 30 miles from me, very aggressive.
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