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Everything posted by chadd

  1. The issue isn't the amount of torque available or the strength of the tractor's PTO clutch, it is the torque limit for the power transmission shaft itself. Shafts are sized based on torque capacity. Torque and power are related by: HP=(T x RPM)/5252 This means that you can theoretically transmit the same amount of power at 1/2 the torque if you double the rotational speed of the shaft. Or, you can transmit twice the power at the same torque if you double the rotational speed of the shaft. This is a very simplified analysis, but it gives you the idea. There is additional complexity involved in terms of balance requirements, the cross section of the shaft, number of cycles, life, and the relationship to fatigue, etc that engineers also use to determine the design standards for those shafts. The torque at the implement ends up being the same in the end regardless, because you are gearing it back up or down at the implement to maintain the same implement operating speed. If an implement is supposed to operate at 1000rpm input, when operated by a 540rpm PTO, there would be a 0.5:1 ratio (or 2:1 overdrive ratio) at the implement after the PTO shaft. When operated by a 1000rpm PTO, it would be direct driven with a 1:1 ratio. Savvy engineers often design the reduction drives so that swapping two gears (or sprockets or pulleys) around gives the option for 540rpm or 1000rpm input use.
  2. Pictures of my 1466. It was originally a cabbed tractor, but a previous owner took the cab off and put on a set of 1206 fenders. It has quickly become one of my favorite tractors to run.
  3. Thanks everyone for the information! On our combine, the three straight bars closed to the nose of the rotor were removed but the three straight bars behind them were left in. It has seemed to work okay that way for us so far. I might try changing it up and see what effect removing them has. As for green stemmed beans, they are pretty common around here. As others have mentioned, sometimes we have had to wait for the frost to come through to get the moisture low enough to combine. It is not uncommon to have green stem beans that have to come off whether they are ready or not because there is snow in the forecast and something is better than nothing... The variety we use typically dries down pretty uniformly and quickly, so we'll get a little rumble here or there, but the rotor speed stays around 550 to 600 rpm or so. I did some custom work for a friend and I don't know what variety he got that year but the only way we got any kind of ground speed without constant rotor rumble was to put the rotor gearbox in high range and run around 1000 or 1050rpm.
  4. I removed the rotor on our 1440 and noticed that there are several rasp bar positions that aren't being used. Is this normal? The previous owner only used it for corn but we usually do a 60/40 mixture of corn and soybeans during the year. I have heard that there was a dealer service bulletin to remove some of the rasp bars on the early combines with a standard rotor because they didn't improve separation but consumed power, but I have no idea if these are the ones that are supposed to be removed...
  5. Thanks for the wisdom guys! I got the rotor out and the cone removed over the weekend. Pulled all of the vanes out, too. I vacuumed as much dust, chaff, etc. up as I could, laid down welding blankets the entire way up the concave grates, and brought over 10 gallons of water and a fire extinguisher just in case. Everything went fine grinding the heads off. Waiting on parts to put it back together. The previous owner ran a pretty good sized rock, post, or something solid through it, so I have some adjustment work on the edge of the cage to do...
  6. I am replacing the transition cone on our 1440 combine, and this is really the first time that I've had to do major surgery on this combine since I got it. The problem is that I can't get any of the Truss head screws out of the cone using normal means. I can't loosen them because the slot strips out and I can't hold them. None of them unscrew because the nuts are self locking. I can't hold them with a vice grip or anything because they haven't moved anywhere, so there is nothing to grab on to. If I try tightening them to break them off, the threads strip out instead of the head breaking off. Any tricks of the trade to get these out without using an angle grinder or welding nuts onto them? In the past I have never had to use a grinder, torch, welder, or any other type of spark throwing equipment inside a combine. I have always considered those items off limits because I didn't want an ember to drop down in and start smouldering somewhere. But, I am pretty much out of options at this point. What do you guys do when working inside of combines with power tools? Do you hose the inside of the combine down to help keep things from burning? Pressure wash the heck out of the inside and outside before starting? Any ideas or experiences would be helpful. Chad
  7. I just replaced the T04 that was on the 1466 with a 3LM this spring and I've been very satisfied so far. Under a long hard pull, the EGT's get up to about 1000 deg. F max and I haven't noticed any increased turbo lag or any thing unusual so far. I would say that the fuel economy actually increased a little under light load and the tractor seemed to pick up some power, but our equipment is small enough that it barely notices anything is back there to begin with. My 1466 was cranked up by the previous owner to start with though, so maybe that is why my result was positive.
  8. We like ours. Yours has the front mount grass seed attachment (like our older #10 did) which worked better for us when planting small acreages. Our current one has the larger rear mount grass seed unit. Only things I miss on ours are hydraulic lift and press wheels...
  9. Before IH's construction division started the 300/400 series engine program, they had planned on using the existing Neuss engine series across the product lines. They did a study and determined that the Neuss engines didn't have enough power potential for the 1970 US diesel engine market and decided to create a new engine series starting in 1966 to be ready for production by 1969. Production delays resulted in the engines first being available in Dec. of 1970. One of their goals was to make the 300 series engines interchangeable with the Neuss engines, so it would make sense that they would have anticipated using a similar seal carrier. I have a document with prototype 400 series engine pictures, but none show the crank/flywheel side of the engine without a flywheel installed. Based on pictures of the Phase 1 engine design, I can see a lot of resemblance to the Neuss D358. Also, it looks like the hole pattern might be shown in the GSS-1427 engine manual on page 1-181, but the picture is pretty dark and blurry.
  10. At work we build and ship machine tools with boxed ways and linear guide rails that are unpainted and completely unprotected from rust during normal use. We spray them down with LPS 3 and then cover the machine in shrink wrap prior to loading into cargo containers for overseas machines. For domestic machines, we spray any unpainted surface with LPS 3 and then load them onto Conestoga flatbeds for shipment. It makes a thick waxy film that doesn't get as hard and gummy as Cosmoline. I've heard it removes pretty easily with mineral spirits.
  11. Great looking scenery and great looking red iron. Doesn't get any better than that! Thanks for sharing!
  12. If the one I got doesn't work out, I'll give them a try. Thanks!
  13. I'll take a look at it again when I get it off. I didn't see anything last time, but it could've cracked when I tightened it down. I'll take a look at it when I get it off. Thanks!
  14. I did buy the gasket, but I was hoping not to have to wait for it. I have a bunch of land I need to work yet unfortunately... Thanks for the info!
  15. That is good information. I should've looked at it closer... I'll be sure to do that. Thanks!
  16. Is there some secret to getting this to seal up? The 1466 had a pretty bad leak between the mount and the engine block, so I took the base off and sanded it flat (it was very warped). Called the dealer and was told that the gasket is NLA. I used Loctite 515, laid a bead around each of the ports, and remounted it. Let it dry for a couple days. After 4 hours of run time, I have an external leak at the mount that is worse than it was before. Just wondering if there is a different product or procedure I should be using? Thanks! Chad
  17. Like snoshoe mentioned, it is an acre counter. There should be a chain on the frame and an eyebolt on the back of the counter and the counter should pivot on a rod. When you are transporting the drill or if you don't want to use it, you latch the chain into the frame to keep the gear on the bottom from touching the drive shaft. When you are ready to seed, you unlatch the chain and the gear rotates with the drive shaft giving you a count of your acreage.
  18. Yeah, it was rolling coal pretty good in the low spots. Even though I have the TA available, the D361 lugs so well that I never really need it. The radials really make a huge difference, especially on dry ground. My dad had the 966 on the 6000 the previous day and even though he had more overall power and more weight with the cab on the tractor, he was spinning and slipping a lot more than the 806 was. I took some video of it pulling, but I have no idea how I would post it up here... Wow, if both our 806's were in the back 40, it would be almost impossible to tell which is which! Great looking tractors by the way! Your 806 looks a bit later than mine with the flat top fenders, the long tubular hydraulic levers, and no heat shields on the manifold. Although it can't be just too late if it still has a generator. That 856 gas is a rare bird; every one I've ever seen in person was diesel powered. We used to have a 656 Hydro with a gas engine and one of the neighbors still has a 706 with a gas engine as his big tractor. As far as I know, those were the largest gas engine tractors in our area.
  19. Like Boog said, it is probably BSPT or Rc, British Standard Pipe Thread, Tapered. For a 1/8" thread, NPT is 27 threads per inch, BSPT is 28 threads per inch. From experience, the two will thread into each other, but it won't feel right as it tightens up, and it won't seal without a lot of pipe dope or thread tape...
  20. chadd

    CaseIH parts

    They've definitely gone the "contract to the lowest bidder" route in the last 10-20 years. The last set of tie rods I bought had the boots fall off in a week and came with no grease fittings on the inner ball joints. I picked up a shift arm for our 806 and the hole was out of position by 1/8" and was almost broken out of the casting. The turnbuckles didn't have enough adjustment to make it work, so I bushed the old one and put it back in... In 04 or 05, I had gotten a genuine Rochester oil pressure and temp gauge for the M from the dealer. Went back in 2010 for the same gauges for the 350 and was presented with gauges made from plastic that came from China for more money. I wouldn't put those gauges on a lawnmower... For how crappy the parts are, they didn't get any cheaper in cost. I almost passed out when the parts guy told me that brake adjusters for a 66 series tractor were $165 each... I am sure their plan is to get people to upgrade to newer equipment by eliminating quality parts for legacy equipment that don't have enough volume to make it profitable enough for them.
  21. Got a chance to unwind doing some field work this weekend. Normally I'd use the 1466, but I am still waiting on parts to arrive, so the 806 got put into service with the 6000 Consertill. I was pulling it in 3rd low direct most of the time. The 806 was able to pull 4th low TA, but it was a pretty heavy load in certain spots.
  22. After PO-10, CaseIH went to the 8-8330 Plow Bottom Parts manual in 1991. I don't know what they renamed it after that. The "Earth Metal" designation was still used on the disc and coulter blades I've bought in the last couple years, and were still listed in the 2018 CaseIH Tillage Support Catalog. The last moldboards I bought from CNH a couple years ago were called "Diamond Finish" instead of Earth Metal. It was supposed to be a "new and improved" replacement for Earth Metal and Earth Metal XW moldboards with a harder smooth finish that scours quicker and a ductile core to prevent breakage due to cracking. I know at least one of them didn't have a ductile core, as it split in two while tightening the bolts retaining it to the frog...
  23. Picture of the speed chart from the kick panel.
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