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Everything posted by chadd

  1. Pretty sure it is a Schwartz front end. We had one on a 656 Hydro. It worked great on there and turned surprisingly short for a wide front.
  2. We still have our Supersheller as a backup, but we use the 1440 most of the time now. The Supersheller gives a great sample, but the snapping rolls lose quite a bit of corn when the moisture is low. We had a really wet year in 2014 where the sprayer made deep ruts. Broke two running gear that year and broke the frame on the picker twice. After reinforcing it, we didn't have any problems afterward. I really enjoyed running it, but fields took a lot longer and there was a lot more auger work involved to load semis...
  3. I believe that the rockets that failed were the Vanguard rockets that were designed by a different American team of engineers/scientists. To my knowledge, no Saturn V rocket catastrophically failed. Several did experience structural oscillations during flight that were enough to shut down engines (POGO), but they still achieved their objectives. By the end of the program they were far exceeding the original payload capacity that those rockets were intended to launch. I think even if you went and dusted off the old Saturn V drawings, you would have the same problems. All of the people who were involved in engineering, manufacturing, assembling, and commissioning the previous successful spacecraft (Redstone, Atlas, Saturn, Space Shuttle) are retired. When they left, management had no interest in them passing their skills and knowledge to their replacements (if there were replacements) and the skills and knowledge just aren't there anymore. In my opinion, that failing extends far wider than the US space program...
  4. Thanks. I bought it from a retired farmer 10 miles away who bought it new. He always kept it in a shed until he sold it to me. Gave me the original owners manual with it and a pile of spare dealer supplied bolts that he never used.
  5. Does this engine have reed valves or any type of rotary intake valves, or is it just a basic 2-stroke with piston port induction? Broken reeds can cause issues with low compression because they act as a check valve to hold the fuel/air charge in the cylinder during compression until the transfer ports are covered. If it is piston port induction, the piston skirt serves the same function. Same is true of the exhaust. Two-strokes have a tuned exhaust; the pipe is designed for the exhaust pressure wave to hit the end of the pipe and bounce back at the same time the cylinder is on the compression stroke with the exhaust port uncovered. This holds most of the fresh fuel/air in the cylinder, and prevents it from running straight into the exhaust. I agree with others, 2-strokes need oil for break-in. The first few hours should have 40:1 premix until the oil injection is bled and everything is broken in. How many revolutions at WOT did the engine make during the compression rest? Usually at least 3 to 5 revolutions are needed to reach full compression pressure on a gauge. Any chance something in the carburetor came loose and it is running rich or lean? Had a friend whose sled lost power and the circlip holding the main jet needle in the slide in the mikuni carburetor fell out on one cylinder. This dropped the needle into the jet shutting off all main circuit fuel flow to that cylinder; Piston on that cylinder didn't look so good at the end of the lake after a WOT run...
  6. Sorry, this is correct. Meant 4 speed, but typed 5 instead...
  7. Yes. You can just slide everything up a set of holes. Depending on how many bottoms are coming off, you may need a different length steering bar. We shortened my dad's late model 710 5 bottom to a 4 bottom and his had a telescopic tube that we just had to change to a different set of holes. We cut the frame off after the change. Our 806 does the same. Love to see the 8" red flame out the muffler and the dull glow of the muffler at night. We pull 4x16's with ours.
  8. The 404 used the transmission driven PTO from the 240. The biggest upgrades on the 404 were the draft control 3pt and the hydraulics system. The 404 had an actual cartridge filter mounted next to the engine by the distributor drive pump instead of the strainer in the reservoir on the 240. Also the reservoir on the 404 was under the operator seat with the valves mounted off of it like what the 350 utility used. I think the 240 used the C-123 gas engine and the 404 used the C-135 gas engine. Both used the same transmission/differential with the 5 speed standard with an optional high/low range .
  9. Might be totally wrong, but it looks to me like someone bought it for the center section with the TA or fast reverser along with the steering box and didn't want the rest. That would be one short wheelbase and turning radius if the two sections remaining were bolted together; the pedals would be alongside the engine oil filter... Would need a rear mount fuel tank, too...
  10. I believe there were changes made to the shaving cutters to improve the surface finish on the gearing from the 06 series to the 66 and 86 series. I think the 50 series STS gearing was ground, which is a level of quality higher than that of shaving. I don't know if that change passed down to the legacy rear transmission gearing used in the 30 series or not. Depending on whether or not your tractor is one owner, it is very possible that someone was in there and either set the ring and pinion out of spec or changed out a bull pinion or a bull gear without changing its mate, or ran it for a while with a bearing out. Our 806 is much louder than either our 966 or our 1466, especially in H3 and H4. The dealer we bought it from said they did rear end work on it for the previous owner but didn't elaborate as to what they did. I don't know if the noise is due to those repairs or if the 06's were that loud. I've heard other 06's from a distance and they seemed quieter than ours. Ours has a noticeable howl to it.
  11. The issue isn't the amount of torque available or the strength of the tractor's PTO clutch, it is the torque limit for the power transmission shaft itself. Shafts are sized based on torque capacity. Torque and power are related by: HP=(T x RPM)/5252 This means that you can theoretically transmit the same amount of power at 1/2 the torque if you double the rotational speed of the shaft. Or, you can transmit twice the power at the same torque if you double the rotational speed of the shaft. This is a very simplified analysis, but it gives you the idea. There is additional complexity involved in terms of balance requirements, the cross section of the shaft, number of cycles, life, and the relationship to fatigue, etc that engineers also use to determine the design standards for those shafts. The torque at the implement ends up being the same in the end regardless, because you are gearing it back up or down at the implement to maintain the same implement operating speed. If an implement is supposed to operate at 1000rpm input, when operated by a 540rpm PTO, there would be a 0.5:1 ratio (or 2:1 overdrive ratio) at the implement after the PTO shaft. When operated by a 1000rpm PTO, it would be direct driven with a 1:1 ratio. Savvy engineers often design the reduction drives so that swapping two gears (or sprockets or pulleys) around gives the option for 540rpm or 1000rpm input use.
  12. Pictures of my 1466. It was originally a cabbed tractor, but a previous owner took the cab off and put on a set of 1206 fenders. It has quickly become one of my favorite tractors to run.
  13. Thanks everyone for the information! On our combine, the three straight bars closed to the nose of the rotor were removed but the three straight bars behind them were left in. It has seemed to work okay that way for us so far. I might try changing it up and see what effect removing them has. As for green stemmed beans, they are pretty common around here. As others have mentioned, sometimes we have had to wait for the frost to come through to get the moisture low enough to combine. It is not uncommon to have green stem beans that have to come off whether they are ready or not because there is snow in the forecast and something is better than nothing... The variety we use typically dries down pretty uniformly and quickly, so we'll get a little rumble here or there, but the rotor speed stays around 550 to 600 rpm or so. I did some custom work for a friend and I don't know what variety he got that year but the only way we got any kind of ground speed without constant rotor rumble was to put the rotor gearbox in high range and run around 1000 or 1050rpm.
  14. I removed the rotor on our 1440 and noticed that there are several rasp bar positions that aren't being used. Is this normal? The previous owner only used it for corn but we usually do a 60/40 mixture of corn and soybeans during the year. I have heard that there was a dealer service bulletin to remove some of the rasp bars on the early combines with a standard rotor because they didn't improve separation but consumed power, but I have no idea if these are the ones that are supposed to be removed...
  15. Thanks for the wisdom guys! I got the rotor out and the cone removed over the weekend. Pulled all of the vanes out, too. I vacuumed as much dust, chaff, etc. up as I could, laid down welding blankets the entire way up the concave grates, and brought over 10 gallons of water and a fire extinguisher just in case. Everything went fine grinding the heads off. Waiting on parts to put it back together. The previous owner ran a pretty good sized rock, post, or something solid through it, so I have some adjustment work on the edge of the cage to do...
  16. I am replacing the transition cone on our 1440 combine, and this is really the first time that I've had to do major surgery on this combine since I got it. The problem is that I can't get any of the Truss head screws out of the cone using normal means. I can't loosen them because the slot strips out and I can't hold them. None of them unscrew because the nuts are self locking. I can't hold them with a vice grip or anything because they haven't moved anywhere, so there is nothing to grab on to. If I try tightening them to break them off, the threads strip out instead of the head breaking off. Any tricks of the trade to get these out without using an angle grinder or welding nuts onto them? In the past I have never had to use a grinder, torch, welder, or any other type of spark throwing equipment inside a combine. I have always considered those items off limits because I didn't want an ember to drop down in and start smouldering somewhere. But, I am pretty much out of options at this point. What do you guys do when working inside of combines with power tools? Do you hose the inside of the combine down to help keep things from burning? Pressure wash the heck out of the inside and outside before starting? Any ideas or experiences would be helpful. Chad
  17. I just replaced the T04 that was on the 1466 with a 3LM this spring and I've been very satisfied so far. Under a long hard pull, the EGT's get up to about 1000 deg. F max and I haven't noticed any increased turbo lag or any thing unusual so far. I would say that the fuel economy actually increased a little under light load and the tractor seemed to pick up some power, but our equipment is small enough that it barely notices anything is back there to begin with. My 1466 was cranked up by the previous owner to start with though, so maybe that is why my result was positive.
  18. We like ours. Yours has the front mount grass seed attachment (like our older #10 did) which worked better for us when planting small acreages. Our current one has the larger rear mount grass seed unit. Only things I miss on ours are hydraulic lift and press wheels...
  19. Before IH's construction division started the 300/400 series engine program, they had planned on using the existing Neuss engine series across the product lines. They did a study and determined that the Neuss engines didn't have enough power potential for the 1970 US diesel engine market and decided to create a new engine series starting in 1966 to be ready for production by 1969. Production delays resulted in the engines first being available in Dec. of 1970. One of their goals was to make the 300 series engines interchangeable with the Neuss engines, so it would make sense that they would have anticipated using a similar seal carrier. I have a document with prototype 400 series engine pictures, but none show the crank/flywheel side of the engine without a flywheel installed. Based on pictures of the Phase 1 engine design, I can see a lot of resemblance to the Neuss D358. Also, it looks like the hole pattern might be shown in the GSS-1427 engine manual on page 1-181, but the picture is pretty dark and blurry.
  20. At work we build and ship machine tools with boxed ways and linear guide rails that are unpainted and completely unprotected from rust during normal use. We spray them down with LPS 3 and then cover the machine in shrink wrap prior to loading into cargo containers for overseas machines. For domestic machines, we spray any unpainted surface with LPS 3 and then load them onto Conestoga flatbeds for shipment. It makes a thick waxy film that doesn't get as hard and gummy as Cosmoline. I've heard it removes pretty easily with mineral spirits.
  21. Great looking scenery and great looking red iron. Doesn't get any better than that! Thanks for sharing!
  22. If the one I got doesn't work out, I'll give them a try. Thanks!
  23. I'll take a look at it again when I get it off. I didn't see anything last time, but it could've cracked when I tightened it down. I'll take a look at it when I get it off. Thanks!
  24. I did buy the gasket, but I was hoping not to have to wait for it. I have a bunch of land I need to work yet unfortunately... Thanks for the info!
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