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chadd

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Everything posted by chadd

  1. Thanks everyone for the information! On our combine, the three straight bars closed to the nose of the rotor were removed but the three straight bars behind them were left in. It has seemed to work okay that way for us so far. I might try changing it up and see what effect removing them has. As for green stemmed beans, they are pretty common around here. As others have mentioned, sometimes we have had to wait for the frost to come through to get the moisture low enough to combine. It is not uncommon to have green stem beans that have to come off whether they are ready or not because there is snow in the forecast and something is better than nothing... The variety we use typically dries down pretty uniformly and quickly, so we'll get a little rumble here or there, but the rotor speed stays around 550 to 600 rpm or so. I did some custom work for a friend and I don't know what variety he got that year but the only way we got any kind of ground speed without constant rotor rumble was to put the rotor gearbox in high range and run around 1000 or 1050rpm.
  2. I removed the rotor on our 1440 and noticed that there are several rasp bar positions that aren't being used. Is this normal? The previous owner only used it for corn but we usually do a 60/40 mixture of corn and soybeans during the year. I have heard that there was a dealer service bulletin to remove some of the rasp bars on the early combines with a standard rotor because they didn't improve separation but consumed power, but I have no idea if these are the ones that are supposed to be removed...
  3. Thanks for the wisdom guys! I got the rotor out and the cone removed over the weekend. Pulled all of the vanes out, too. I vacuumed as much dust, chaff, etc. up as I could, laid down welding blankets the entire way up the concave grates, and brought over 10 gallons of water and a fire extinguisher just in case. Everything went fine grinding the heads off. Waiting on parts to put it back together. The previous owner ran a pretty good sized rock, post, or something solid through it, so I have some adjustment work on the edge of the cage to do...
  4. I am replacing the transition cone on our 1440 combine, and this is really the first time that I've had to do major surgery on this combine since I got it. The problem is that I can't get any of the Truss head screws out of the cone using normal means. I can't loosen them because the slot strips out and I can't hold them. None of them unscrew because the nuts are self locking. I can't hold them with a vice grip or anything because they haven't moved anywhere, so there is nothing to grab on to. If I try tightening them to break them off, the threads strip out instead of the head breaking off. Any tricks of the trade to get these out without using an angle grinder or welding nuts onto them? In the past I have never had to use a grinder, torch, welder, or any other type of spark throwing equipment inside a combine. I have always considered those items off limits because I didn't want an ember to drop down in and start smouldering somewhere. But, I am pretty much out of options at this point. What do you guys do when working inside of combines with power tools? Do you hose the inside of the combine down to help keep things from burning? Pressure wash the heck out of the inside and outside before starting? Any ideas or experiences would be helpful. Chad
  5. chadd

    3LM466 Turbo

    I just replaced the T04 that was on the 1466 with a 3LM this spring and I've been very satisfied so far. Under a long hard pull, the EGT's get up to about 1000 deg. F max and I haven't noticed any increased turbo lag or any thing unusual so far. I would say that the fuel economy actually increased a little under light load and the tractor seemed to pick up some power, but our equipment is small enough that it barely notices anything is back there to begin with. My 1466 was cranked up by the previous owner to start with though, so maybe that is why my result was positive.
  6. Before IH's construction division started the 300/400 series engine program, they had planned on using the existing Neuss engine series across the product lines. They did a study and determined that the Neuss engines didn't have enough power potential for the 1970 US diesel engine market and decided to create a new engine series starting in 1966 to be ready for production by 1969. Production delays resulted in the engines first being available in Dec. of 1970. One of their goals was to make the 300 series engines interchangeable with the Neuss engines, so it would make sense that they would have anticipated using a similar seal carrier. I have a document with prototype 400 series engine pictures, but none show the crank/flywheel side of the engine without a flywheel installed. Based on pictures of the Phase 1 engine design, I can see a lot of resemblance to the Neuss D358. Also, it looks like the hole pattern might be shown in the GSS-1427 engine manual on page 1-181, but the picture is pretty dark and blurry.
  7. If the one I got doesn't work out, I'll give them a try. Thanks!
  8. I'll take a look at it again when I get it off. I didn't see anything last time, but it could've cracked when I tightened it down. I'll take a look at it when I get it off. Thanks!
  9. I did buy the gasket, but I was hoping not to have to wait for it. I have a bunch of land I need to work yet unfortunately... Thanks for the info!
  10. That is good information. I should've looked at it closer... I'll be sure to do that. Thanks!
  11. Is there some secret to getting this to seal up? The 1466 had a pretty bad leak between the mount and the engine block, so I took the base off and sanded it flat (it was very warped). Called the dealer and was told that the gasket is NLA. I used Loctite 515, laid a bead around each of the ports, and remounted it. Let it dry for a couple days. After 4 hours of run time, I have an external leak at the mount that is worse than it was before. Just wondering if there is a different product or procedure I should be using? Thanks! Chad
  12. Like snoshoe mentioned, it is an acre counter. There should be a chain on the frame and an eyebolt on the back of the counter and the counter should pivot on a rod. When you are transporting the drill or if you don't want to use it, you latch the chain into the frame to keep the gear on the bottom from touching the drive shaft. When you are ready to seed, you unlatch the chain and the gear rotates with the drive shaft giving you a count of your acreage.
  13. Yeah, it was rolling coal pretty good in the low spots. Even though I have the TA available, the D361 lugs so well that I never really need it. The radials really make a huge difference, especially on dry ground. My dad had the 966 on the 6000 the previous day and even though he had more overall power and more weight with the cab on the tractor, he was spinning and slipping a lot more than the 806 was. I took some video of it pulling, but I have no idea how I would post it up here... Wow, if both our 806's were in the back 40, it would be almost impossible to tell which is which! Great looking tractors by the way! Your 806 looks a bit later than mine with the flat top fenders, the long tubular hydraulic levers, and no heat shields on the manifold. Although it can't be just too late if it still has a generator. That 856 gas is a rare bird; every one I've ever seen in person was diesel powered. We used to have a 656 Hydro with a gas engine and one of the neighbors still has a 706 with a gas engine as his big tractor. As far as I know, those were the largest gas engine tractors in our area.
  14. Got a chance to unwind doing some field work this weekend. Normally I'd use the 1466, but I am still waiting on parts to arrive, so the 806 got put into service with the 6000 Consertill. I was pulling it in 3rd low direct most of the time. The 806 was able to pull 4th low TA, but it was a pretty heavy load in certain spots.
  15. After PO-10, CaseIH went to the 8-8330 Plow Bottom Parts manual in 1991. I don't know what they renamed it after that. The "Earth Metal" designation was still used on the disc and coulter blades I've bought in the last couple years, and were still listed in the 2018 CaseIH Tillage Support Catalog. The last moldboards I bought from CNH a couple years ago were called "Diamond Finish" instead of Earth Metal. It was supposed to be a "new and improved" replacement for Earth Metal and Earth Metal XW moldboards with a harder smooth finish that scours quicker and a ductile core to prevent breakage due to cracking. I know at least one of them didn't have a ductile core, as it split in two while tightening the bolts retaining it to the frog...
  16. Picture of the speed chart from the kick panel.
  17. I'll have to see if I can find a picture of it, I think I have one somewhere.
  18. You are quite observant! Yes, the tractor is S/N 10220S-Y, so it would have come with the black faced tach. We bought the tractor used in 1997 and the gauge had already been upgraded to the rainbow colored tachometer/speedometer unit. It had the wider ratio TA until I swapped out the unit a few years ago for a HyCapacity HD TA. The RD pump is still on there as well. It also still has the clamshell fenders and the oil fill hole above the dipstick.
  19. We've plowed with a 710 3 bottom with a combination gauge wheel/tail wheel and short landside for 25+ years, and we haven't experienced any issues. Our soil is mostly blue and red clay, no sand whatsoever. Lots of rocks, though. Wear is rarely an issue around here, the issues are usually getting the moldboard to scour before you are done for the year and keeping rocks from cracking/splitting the moldboards. As others have mentioned, we replace the wear items when the wear reaches the frog, not before.
  20. chadd

    C-200 Noise

    Agree with the rest on this one. Our 2500A with the C200 has had a knock/tick in it for the last 15 years. It doesn't sound great, but it hasn't gotten worse either.
  21. As others have mentioned, they did exist. I wouldn't say that they are prevalent around WI, but they are out there. My dad and I found one on a plow in a junk yard and took the beam extensions, plates, steering tubes, etc. and installed them on my dad's 3 bottom 710 to convert it to 4 bottoms about 8 or 9 years ago. We also installed the threaded rod and turnbuckle from the larger plows to reinforce the extension. Never had any issues with the extension, and it was tested. At one point my dad caught a tree root with the extension bottom and stopped the 966 dead in its tracks before the root snapped. It tensioned the threaded rod a bit, but nothing bent or broke. Both his plow and the extension bottom had the one piece tail wheel/gauge wheel on them. It works OK on plowing bean fields or hay fields, but is a nightmare in corn as the stalks build up a pile under the wheel mount and lift the back of the plow out of the ground.
  22. That sounds like it is easy enough. Thanks for the procedure!
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