Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by cgage

  1. If you mean it has a popping sound in the exhaust but runs okay my first thoughts would be to check valve gap and timing.
  2. I just find it funny that the headlines last year during the height of the COVID shutdown were how much smog and global emissions dropped with all the shutdowns and how many tons of greenhouse gases were avoided.... by shutting down things like airlines and personal vacations and travel it dropped. But now that we are opening again lets go after farmers again and try to figure out how to make semi trucks electric. We literally saw the emissions impact of reducing airline and other travel but now cow farts and tractors are the problem. I guarantee during that whole shutdown the cows didn't make any less emissions and tractors were run the same amount as were trucks trying to keep up with demand from the toilet paper scare but now lets go back after those sources as the emission problem! ? Maybe I am missing something but doesn't seem to make much sense to me.
  3. Take the fill plug out of the reservoir and point the nose downhill and see if that works; I have to do this sometimes to get my pump to re-prime if it sits for a long time.
  4. Yeah markets definitely change by area. Chevy is very popular around here and seems to have a large majority of the 1/2 ton market in my area. There are some of the Duramax for sale and some people do want crazy money but there seem to always be a few cheap listings of ones that are all beat up. Last year I got a Chevy 2500 for my wife and had to work to find one we wanted with a 6.0 because I didn't want the diesel. The Dodge Cummins seem to have the strongest pricing around my area. You used to also be able to pick up the old 7.3 Fords pretty reasonable too but those are going up in price for a clean one. New diesel trucks seem to be pretty evenly mixed.
  5. Any other old ones for sale in your area? Seems like you can get rusty early Duramax trucks around here (in Michigan so everything is rusty) for 2k to 5k. Find one cheap with a beat body or some other issue that is a runner then pulling a running engine and even if you freshen up gaskets and injectors on it before it goes in your truck just doing that preventative service on a running engine from a donor truck would probably be cheaper than a crate engine. Then part out/scrap what is left of the other truck to get some money back. Probably the best way to not total the truck with the cost of an engine.
  6. I have 1997 and 1999 Toyota RAV4's that we use as cheap commuters, especially for winter since we live in the rust belt. They do both use some oil between oil changes but they are over 22 years old and both have 190,000 to 200,000 miles on them so I can't really complain too much but even then I don't add over a quarter per 1000 miles, that is crazy for a low mileage vehicle. Mine are maybe a quart per 3,000 to 3,500 mile oil change.
  7. That is weird they have all that now. Never had any of those experiences since all my vehicles are 20 years old and I work on them myself because I hate car payments. I do still get the generic "extended car warranty" calls and I tell them they probably don't want to warranty any of my old vehicles but one guy did insist one time they had lots of choices and I should check so I gave him the serial number off my 1957 IH S-120 pickup. He hung up after that.
  8. I saw this one on an Oliver Facebook group and had to save it. Luckily did not see it in person (was nowhere around it!). An Oliver 1750 with four sets of rear weights and a front slab weight behind a Ford Ranger. Don't know the back story, I'm hoping they parked the truck there as a joke, not sure how it would even hold the hitch off the ground unless the tractor weight was all moved back and even then has no business being on a road. I can't imagine towing it any distance like that that would be too far to just drive the tractor.
  9. As a Yooper you will enjoy the UP of Michigan. Some of my favorite places from living here to look up: Fort Wilkins State Park Tahquamenon Falls Mackinac Island Fort Michilimackinac Fayette State Park Kitch-iti-Kipi Soo Locks Grand Marais Pictured Rocks (boat tours offered) If you like the industrial history we have a huge mining industry up here; especially in the Keweenaw Peninsula (where Fort Wilkins is) and there are mines you can still go down in the shafts and do tours and lots of old ghost towns, museums, and some abandoned sites you can explore. Quincy Mine Delaware Mine Quincy smelter Calumet Theater Brockway Mountain Drive (and lookout) are some to search. Lots of great little places and nice parks and historic landmarks if that is your sort of thing. I always enjoy it. Also lots of trails and places to rent UTV's in summer. I live in the central UP and we have the Cliffs Shaft Mine Museum where you can tour the museum, miner tunnels and buildings and they have the Allis-Chalmers rock crushers they used.
  10. Hopefully they will leave Cooper engineers to keep doing their own thing and not try to combine much beyond money and sales points. I run pretty much all Coopers but have never gone back to Goodyear after paying almost twice as much and having them not perform or last like Cooper. If production gets combined they better have Cooper be the influence in how to build tires and not the other way around.
  11. I went to hydraulic fluid for the same touch control system on my Super A. It had a loud whine, the pump and lines were really hot, and the seal started leaking into the crankcase. replaced the pump o-ring and went back to SAE 10 like it calls for in the manual and they touch control has worked much better since. For me the SAE 10 still works best, I just get it in 2.5 gallon jugs and that is plenty for the touch control.
  12. Would still be worth saving. I have seen people do full restorations where they are having new block housings cast or fixed even; they are basically just a cast iron box. Over the past few years every restored one I have seen go through Mecum has gone for 70k to 90k so if its complete it would be worth saving I'm sure.
  13. I blow snow with a WD Allis Chalmers and when I converted to alternator and 12 volt I got some Halogen truck work lights from NAPA. Not quite as bright as LED but I was also concerned going to LED with it being mounted on the fender for reverse that it would snow over; the halogen makes plenty of heat to keep itself clean.
  14. Its a Farmall A. It looks like a faded yellow almost like it was a highway tractor at some point; it is just a regular A (no hydraulics) and only the Super A was painted as a white demonstrator.
  15. If you are pulling stock weight in first gear just a healthy rebuild with one of the new overbore kits with the step head aluminum pistons should be enough to not power out. My wife's is still original and I don't think it has ever powered out even on clay in a dead weight pull. Either pulls it or digs holes. Our closest show she does does pulls on a looser dirt so it digs easier and it is lugging but she still usually spins out up to 3rd gear. You will probably have about one or two sets of weights for that weight at which point just a good rebuild would spin out in first. I wouldn't drop a ton of money on fancy puller parts to pull first gear in stock antiques. The only difference that would change probably based on how good the track hooks would be how good of tires you have on it and how big of a tire you go with. Like I say my wife's H is only on 12.4's so not real wide. If you went to a bigger tire it would probably be harder to spin out but again a good rebuild should make up for that compared to the kerosene manifold and stock bore and pistons in her H.
  16. Do you have a speed limitation in your class and what do you want weight at? My wife does fun pulls at shows with her H; it is about 4300 lbs with one set of weights and it will dig holes every time. It only has 12.4 tires but I have done the head gasket and it just has flat top pistons and still has the kerosene manifold and it pulled 31 hp on the belt dyno so guessing you could do the overbore kit with step head pistons and the 300 or 350 manifold and carb and get over 40 hp no problem. Again depends on what speed and weight you are trying to compete in, our antique pulls are pretty much stock.
  17. I grew up on a farm where we always had antique tractors that have been passed down through the family for a few generations. So got hooked from about the time I could talk and when I was 9 I bought a Farmall Super A Industrial I still have for $400 with money I got for helping on the farm. Have been tinkering on them and collecting ever since. Now have two kids of my own and my own house and garage/shop where I have 9 antique tractors of all brands and about 6 antique/classic garden tractors.
  18. My wife isn't on here but she has gotten into the hobby and is building a collection. She has a 1944 Farmall H, a 1950 Farmall M and is working on restoring a 1939 Farmall F-14. I restored the others for her now she is working along out in the garage and asking questions on the F-14 so she can do her own restoration. She takes her H and M to shows and enjoys tractor pulling and put her H on the belt dyno last year. My wife originally decided she liked Farmall M's after going to shows with me and that is what she should get for her own tractor; I found the H looking rough but solid for cheap so I picked it up and explained it is like an M but just a little bit smaller. She took it to one show and told me "I still want an M". So, I said sure we can sell the H and get you an M instead. She looked at me very upset and said "you are not selling my H, it's my first tractor, I want an M ALSO". So we got the M ALSO about a year and a half later and from that point I knew she was hooked on the hobby! My 5 year old daughter is also getting hooked. She has worked up from the pedal tractor pictured with my wife's tractors and has a sears ss16 garden tractor for pulling and has claimed my Allis Chalmers B as her tractor. I recently picked up another half an Allis Chalmers B (no engine) for parts and my daughter told me I need to find an engine so she can help me fix it because it's not fair she only has one tractor and mommy and daddy have more than one! So I know she is in the correct mindset and hope to find an engine for it just because it would be a good father daughter project.
  19. I used a Hitachi 14231 alternator on my wife's H when I restored it because the generator was totally shot. They are small enough to fit under the hood and I didn't need to buy a mounting kit. It will fit on the stock mount using a piece of all thread to adjust it forward and backward to line up the belt then I just used a little turn buckle from where the original adjustment tab for the generator mounts for adjusting belt tension.
  20. I was happy with the Cooper Evolution for that. They have a pretty open aggressive tread which is what does that in the deep stuff. The ones with finer tread and more siping are probably a littler better on slick ice but we get lots of snow here and can be slushy or wet and they were good about self cleaning the thick stuff and chewing through deep snow. They do work much better than an "all season" as most all season tires have more parallel grooves to be quiet on dry pavement but that isn't what cleans or makes grip in deep snow. Being you are looking for a Silverado with trucks you can also usually have the choice of "all terrain" tires which is much better than all season for deep snow. I put 265/75R16 Cooper Discoverer AT3 tires on my old K1500 and was very impressed with them in the snow for being a year round all terrain tire but they do have some fairly aggressive biting edges and sipes. We had a storm last November where we got over 2 feet and was pushing very thick/heavy snow even with the bumper of my truck and with a couple runs those Coopers would chew through it but they aren't going to perform quite like a true winter compound tire on the slicker stuff.
  21. I have run General Altimax Arctic and Cooper Evolution winter for snow tires and they were both very good. Last year was the first time I had tried the Cooper (I like their tires in general and run them on trucks and cars) and I am very impressed. Put some on a Chevy Impala and backed it out of a few drifts it had become a part of in the driveway up to the door handle. Basically as long as it didn't high center and the tires were on the ground it would keep going. Between those two I would go with whatever you can get a better price on; they have both been good in my experience, and we live in Northern Michigan and usually top 200 to 250 inches of snow per year at my house.
  22. If you go in to do brakes check all your connections to the front hubs: my 1997 GMC 1500 did that where it would randomly pulse the ABS on dry pavement which does make it harder to stop when the brake pressure doesn't need to be backed off. I pulled the fuse to keep it from doing it to get home; I eventually pulled a front wheel off and found the clip holding the wire going to the hub for the ABS sensor had gotten bent and the wire rubbed through on the rim and was randomly shorting out and sending a signal to trip the ABS. Since you said it did it while parking I have seen some do that same sort of thing while at full lock on the steering if a hub/wheel bearing starts to go bad. You get movement inside the hub while turning and it will make the sensor have a messed up reading and trip the ABS sometimes. My Impala started throwing ABS codes and tripped a few times and turned out to be bad/worn front wheel bearings so I installed new hubs and was good to go. So, first thing I would check all wires and connectors for the wheel sensors and check for play in the hubs if it has the unit hubs with the sensors in them.
  23. Would be an older era than the 756 but for my Super A Industrial they had a heavier cast iron square front axle rather than the tube, an extra support for the front axle back to the bell housing, and it has a foot throttle.
  24. Had been with my wife for a while already but I can remember when I knew I had her hooked on tractors and its only gotten better since... My wife finally decided she wanted her own tractor for tractor shows and she said she liked Farmall M's and wanted one of those. So not long after I actually found a great deal on an H so I picked it up and brought it home for her. She took it to a show a week later and when we got home she told me "I still want an M". So I told her that's fine I got a good deal on the H so we can sell it and find an M to buy instead if she would rather have an M. At that moment I knew she was hooked on IH.....she just looked at me with a horrified look on her face and said "you are not selling my H that is my first tractor! I meant I also want an M!" ?. Found a deal and bought her an M the next spring and got her H restored (about 3 years ago) and this summer I brought home a 1939 F-14 that she wanted but this time she wants to learn to do the restoration herself so I have been helping her pick away at it. So far she has learned rebuilding the magneto on her way to a full restoration!
  25. Just helped a friend fix their car as a big chain dealer tried the same thing; gave them a $3200 quote to replace the driveshaft (just needed a $30 carrier bearing but quoted them $700 saying it needed a new driveshaft), control arm bushings, and to do a new pan and flush for the transmission since the transmission pan was rusted out (just had some surface paint flake). Also included the $500 charge for installing new door mechanisms since the power locks were sticking sometimes; fixed with some PB Blaster! Long story short I gave them a list and we ordered about $150 worth of parts to fix the $3200 worth of pretend issues.
  • Create New...