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About cgage

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/06/1991

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  • Location
    Upper Peninsula Michigan
  • Interests
    Old tractors and sharing them with my family. Currently: 1947 Farmall Super A Industrial, 1950 Farmall M, 1944 Farmall H, 1936 Farmall F-20, 1952 Allis WD, 1944 Allis B, 1948 Oliver 70, 1945 Farmall H, 1939 Farmall F-14, 1946 Case DC-4

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  1. Agree with some of the service on these new vehicles makes me nuts! Still have my '97 F350 7.3 and my 97 K1500 with the 350 vortec. Easy and comparatively cheap to work on. My wife had a 2006 Ford Explorer with the 4.0 V6 for a while; chucked some pieces of timing chain guide through the valve cover and after 8 hours of pulling off every accessory and basically the whole front of the engine bay I gained the still frustrating access to and in the process learning those engines have 4 timing chains! Luckily it was the left head that lost a chain guide because the chain for the right head is on the back of the engine so you have to pull the engine to change a timing chain guide! Got it fixed and sold it; last modular engine Ford I will ever own.
  2. That thing is awesome! Would love one of those for pulling the antiques around.
  3. The streamlined and fleetline Olivers: 60, 70, old style 88 and the fleetline 66, 77, and 88. The letter series Farmalls are my favorite IH styling and pretty close on style to the Olivers.
  4. With a new battery it will start and run until the battery dies and doesn't have power for the distributor any more. Fire it up and check at the battery terminals with a voltmeter or multi meter on DC and check; it should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts if its charging. Honestly if it is trying to run an externally regulated alternator with the old regulator I would just spend the $40 to $50 on a gm internally regulated alternator that the mount is already there for and be done with it.
  5. I think the only sizes I have seen them reproduced for at the 28 like listed above that will work on an F-20 or something and I believe they are still reproduced in a 22" for John Deere L tractors.
  6. I would think that is a nature of them; they must have had a well designed cooling system. I put new gauges on my wife's H and M and for show and parade duty I thought they might be defective because they never seem to move off the peg. I finally saw it work last year; they only way we have ever gotten one to move is at a show last year we put my wife's H on the belt dyno and did dyno pulls for about 10 minutes and that 100% load finally made the needle move off the peg.
  7. It is weird that they will lock that hard but they will when the teeth bind. It seems to happen sometimes on these old tractors switched to 12 volt because it makes it engage so much faster maybe? Either way when it does stick you are right they do lock right up weirdly tight. If you have one stick in my experience you cannot get them to move trying to pull start and force it over and will just be harder on things. The key I have found is to spin the engine backwards to get it unstuck before you go to pulling the starter. My sister's 9N locked right up so I pulled my dad backwards on it and he put it in 3rd gear and let the clutch out to get some advantage spinning the engine backwards. Popped right loose and was fine.
  8. How much stuff does she need to haul traveling around? Not sure if its her preference or not but I bought a Toyota RAV4 as my commuter for hauling kids in and saving money commuting and keep miles off my truck. Love the little thing; they are tall enough with the bigger tires and with a 4x4 they are good in all weather even up here in northern michigan winters and still good space and the 4 cylinder gets good mileage.
  9. I just meant that it appears to draw through the crankcase like a hot bulb diesel; it does look like a high compression diesel just that it appears to draw through the crankcase like one rather than having the blower scavenging like a detroit
  10. It will run fine on just gas; just a lower compression engine so it will make a bit less power. Most rebuild kits are overbore and you can get the step head pistons to increase compression still if you plan to rebuild anyway.
  11. Judging by the port in the crankcase in the drawing of the engine I would imagine it is like a "hot bulb" type semi-diesel engine in that regard where they draw through the crankcase like a two stroke gas and just have a total loss oiling system where the fuel is injected at the top of the cylinder and the air goes through the crankcase and then it just pushes oil to the main parts and needs to be refilled like the old tractors with the total loss oilers. The diesel will just pick up some of the oil as it ends up in the crankcase to oil rotating parts and burn it since its a diesel engine anyway. That is more or less how the "hot bulb" diesel engines work if you look up their structure.
  12. I agree on the mechanical and simple to fix aspect but just not going to go that way again. All tractors made for the last many years have been diesel but I have started to wonder lately if a gas tractor would again be feasible to market for midsize tractors? With how much the modern diesel engines and emissions system cost I have wondered if it would be economical to produce a modern industrial high compression, direct injected turbo gas engine for midsize tractors and if the fuel savings between that and an emissions loaded diesel would be enough to offset the cost to build and maintain the diesel anymore? HD pickups are going back to big block industrial style gas engines for this very reason; wonder if it would be cost effective for tractors as well? Seems like for a tractor that does loader work or haying the fuel consumption difference wouldn't be that great anymore.....?
  13. Hopefully it doesn't totally die out as I am getting my kids interested but I would be open to some good deals opening up for me! 😁. I am 28 and the new tractor in my collection is a 1952; really not interested in anything newer than the "100's" series and prefer the unstyled F-series and letter series age tractors...maybe I'm just weird but maybe it will help me find some more good deals. I find deals to pick up my tractors and fix them up myself to play with. I know my collection really doesn't hold a lot of value but its not supposed to be a profit center; just a fun collection.
  14. It is honestly a bit of a running joke up here when we watch the news reports from the south about everyone going to get emergency provisions and getting stuck on the highway from 2" of snow. We pretty much have to be measuring snow in feet to cancel much of anything from just snowfall unless there is a "dangerous wind chill" or bad visibility. Just a different world; we all freak out if there is a tornado advisory for possible conditions and the complaining starts around here at about 85 degrees it is too hot so all what you are used to but it does seem weird from our perspective when we are used to 250+ inches of snowfall each year that the worlds ends with 1" 😁.
  15. Keeping looking for deals, they are out there though I agree it is frustrating to go look and then get that kind of deal. Definitely we need to get our generation interested in order to save the hobby but for everyone that has that kind of deal out there there is someone willing to let one go to save it and help a young guy out. I have had several people give me a deal so "a young guy" could save it. Now I'm 28 and have 9 tractors in my collection, even got the wife hooked; 3 of them are hers. I am one of those of the younger crowd though that does like the old stuff and hope to keep my generation interested rather than just what they remember. My tractors range from my 1936 F-20 to my newest my 1952 Allis WD and I would like to add more of the unstyled tractors to my collection as well. I love the unstyled standard tractors as well but my next hope is to get a Regular as I have an F-20 and my wife is working on an F-14 so it would be cool to show the three together.
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