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About cgage

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/06/1991

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  • Location
    Upper Peninsula Michigan
  • Interests
    Old tractors and sharing them with my family. Currently: 1947 Farmall Super A Industrial, 1950 Farmall M, 1944 Farmall H, 1936 Farmall F-20, 1952 Allis WD, 1944 Allis B, 1948 Oliver 70, 1945 Farmall H, 1939 Farmall F-14, 1946 Case DC-4

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  1. It is weird that they will lock that hard but they will when the teeth bind. It seems to happen sometimes on these old tractors switched to 12 volt because it makes it engage so much faster maybe? Either way when it does stick you are right they do lock right up weirdly tight. If you have one stick in my experience you cannot get them to move trying to pull start and force it over and will just be harder on things. The key I have found is to spin the engine backwards to get it unstuck before you go to pulling the starter. My sister's 9N locked right up so I pulled my dad backwards on it and he put it in 3rd gear and let the clutch out to get some advantage spinning the engine backwards. Popped right loose and was fine.
  2. How much stuff does she need to haul traveling around? Not sure if its her preference or not but I bought a Toyota RAV4 as my commuter for hauling kids in and saving money commuting and keep miles off my truck. Love the little thing; they are tall enough with the bigger tires and with a 4x4 they are good in all weather even up here in northern michigan winters and still good space and the 4 cylinder gets good mileage.
  3. I just meant that it appears to draw through the crankcase like a hot bulb diesel; it does look like a high compression diesel just that it appears to draw through the crankcase like one rather than having the blower scavenging like a detroit
  4. It will run fine on just gas; just a lower compression engine so it will make a bit less power. Most rebuild kits are overbore and you can get the step head pistons to increase compression still if you plan to rebuild anyway.
  5. Judging by the port in the crankcase in the drawing of the engine I would imagine it is like a "hot bulb" type semi-diesel engine in that regard where they draw through the crankcase like a two stroke gas and just have a total loss oiling system where the fuel is injected at the top of the cylinder and the air goes through the crankcase and then it just pushes oil to the main parts and needs to be refilled like the old tractors with the total loss oilers. The diesel will just pick up some of the oil as it ends up in the crankcase to oil rotating parts and burn it since its a diesel engine anyway. That is more or less how the "hot bulb" diesel engines work if you look up their structure.
  6. I agree on the mechanical and simple to fix aspect but just not going to go that way again. All tractors made for the last many years have been diesel but I have started to wonder lately if a gas tractor would again be feasible to market for midsize tractors? With how much the modern diesel engines and emissions system cost I have wondered if it would be economical to produce a modern industrial high compression, direct injected turbo gas engine for midsize tractors and if the fuel savings between that and an emissions loaded diesel would be enough to offset the cost to build and maintain the diesel anymore? HD pickups are going back to big block industrial style gas engines for this very reason; wonder if it would be cost effective for tractors as well? Seems like for a tractor that does loader work or haying the fuel consumption difference wouldn't be that great anymore.....?
  7. Hopefully it doesn't totally die out as I am getting my kids interested but I would be open to some good deals opening up for me! 😁. I am 28 and the new tractor in my collection is a 1952; really not interested in anything newer than the "100's" series and prefer the unstyled F-series and letter series age tractors...maybe I'm just weird but maybe it will help me find some more good deals. I find deals to pick up my tractors and fix them up myself to play with. I know my collection really doesn't hold a lot of value but its not supposed to be a profit center; just a fun collection.
  8. It is honestly a bit of a running joke up here when we watch the news reports from the south about everyone going to get emergency provisions and getting stuck on the highway from 2" of snow. We pretty much have to be measuring snow in feet to cancel much of anything from just snowfall unless there is a "dangerous wind chill" or bad visibility. Just a different world; we all freak out if there is a tornado advisory for possible conditions and the complaining starts around here at about 85 degrees it is too hot so all what you are used to but it does seem weird from our perspective when we are used to 250+ inches of snowfall each year that the worlds ends with 1" 😁.
  9. Keeping looking for deals, they are out there though I agree it is frustrating to go look and then get that kind of deal. Definitely we need to get our generation interested in order to save the hobby but for everyone that has that kind of deal out there there is someone willing to let one go to save it and help a young guy out. I have had several people give me a deal so "a young guy" could save it. Now I'm 28 and have 9 tractors in my collection, even got the wife hooked; 3 of them are hers. I am one of those of the younger crowd though that does like the old stuff and hope to keep my generation interested rather than just what they remember. My tractors range from my 1936 F-20 to my newest my 1952 Allis WD and I would like to add more of the unstyled tractors to my collection as well. I love the unstyled standard tractors as well but my next hope is to get a Regular as I have an F-20 and my wife is working on an F-14 so it would be cool to show the three together.
  10. cgage


    I would agree work them and see if it improves. If not, I would personally just pull the head and pan, pull pistons and just hone and install new rings. I have an old Allis B that I got a seized lower end for; just reused bearings and sleeves; just honed the cylinders, installed new rings and put it together. Has never smoked. These old gas engines are low rpm and low compression so they don't have to have the finest in tolerances just to be toys.
  11. We had two big storms last week and local weather map says we are at about 49".
  12. My 1948 Oliver 70 has aluminum "body" panels. Ford really wasn't revolutionizing the use of Aluminum.
  13. That was my thought at first in reading that as well; I was going to ask if it was not turning over or not starting but I have seen lots of time people phrase it as not turning over means it won't start and take off though I would agree with your phrasing. Forgot to put a section in there for that part; just assumed as it would be weird to lose battery power only when warm? Though like you say it could for some reason be heat seizing but shouldn't do that very quickly unless its getting little to no oil in which case it should be knocking by now.
  14. When it got changed to 12 volts did it get swapped to a 12V coil or have a resistor installed? If it was converted to 12V and still has a 6V coil the coil and/or condenser will get too hot over time and it will die and not restart until it is cool. Even if the coil is correct not running when hot is a common issue caused by a bad coil and/or condenser; as they start to go bad they will break down when hot and only run when cold so I would start there.
  15. How many cylinder? I would look at the actual engine; the W-40 was a 6 cylinder and the 10-20/15-30 were 4 cylinder
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