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About dwillis4

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  1. dwillis4

    W series tractor lineage

    OK, by FAR the most interesting thread since "Letter Series At Work": I always wondered if the W stood for Wheatland. (?) Maybe it was different among countries or regions. (?)
  2. dwillis4

    Steering Arms on W Series

    I need to remove the Steering Arms from the W-4 and like most old assemblies they are resistant. In case I don't have the part name right, in the image you can see the tie rod passing under the tub to the other side. The 'arm' I'm trying to remove is between the tie rod end and the steering pivot point. This arm is almost vertical in the photo. I have removed the nut on top and put a Gear Puller on it with some Liquid Wrench is soaking into it now. Is this a tapered connection or straight? The key and keyway are easily visible. What is the right way to get it apart? I've also been tapping around it with a ball-peen hammer to try and jar it a but. There is really no way to pry up from the bottom because of slanted surfaces. I'm reluctant to jack up the axle and just hammer on the top where the nut goes - unless that is how you do it. Thanks a bunch!
  3. dwillis4

    Letter Series at Work

    Perhaps the BEST thread I've seen in a good while !! So, I guess I'll do my part. The 1942 W-4 is not quite ready for sunlight, while the '50 H has been busy hauling firewood and mowing the yard with a 11'-4" wide cutting path.
  4. This post is to address an error posted several years ago in response to a members question "Are the fuel tanks on the H and the W-4 the same?" ( I just want to set the record straight for any FUTURE members or guests. ) Since I have one of each, I can better answer the question, but am limited to comparing only a 1950 H and a 1942 W-4. The #STAMPINGS# of the tank top and the tank bottom as near as I can tell are indeed the same, but they are markedly different in the location of the Fuel Strainer Bowl assembly. Allow me to elaborate a little more detail. The tank bottom has an upset (downward) or 'boss' if you will, that helps put the TOP of the strainer casting below the bottom of the tank itself for better admittance of the last bit of fuel. That 'boss' is straight on the long sides and rounded on the ends, and is located on the longitudinal center line of the tank. The H strainer is located in the center of the rear round and the W-4 strainer is located in the center of the front round. The difference is about 2 full inches, maybe a small bit more. Now, let's get back to the intent of the original question - Can an H tank be used on a W-4, and vise-versa? The answer is a big MAYBE !! It depends on clearance for the belt pulley gear box and possibly hydraulic equipment, and naturally - what are your options for custom fitting a fuel line to the carb? Please add any comments / corrections / additions if I missed anything for the benefit of future users.
  5. dwillis4

    Extra Hand Lever on SW6?

    I've been checking this unit out (from remote ) and wondering what the extra hand lever is for. It is stated to have a TA which would be the hand lever on the left, correct? That being the case, what is the one by the right fender for??
  6. dwillis4

    WD9 clutch conversion

    I'm no expert on the 'W' series, but when it is equipped with a hand clutch, are the brake pedals then located with one on each side?
  7. I have been carrying a nagging question for some time and it's time to unload it. I have a belt pulley on my early W-4 and the headlight brackets are mounted on the sides of the cast tub rather than on the sides of the grille. (Reference the 1941 W-4 photo owned by o121937, a member of this forum.) It just seems to me that the right headlight would be smack in the way of the pulley belt ! What am I missing? ...or would they (owners of long ago) just move the light to Orchard-mounting-position?? (the holes for that ARE under there) (Reference the image of the I-4, sorry I don't know who owns it) Maybe the belt would droop enough to go under the light bracket?? Send the Experts please !
  8. dwillis4

    Distillate & Kerosene to Gasoline Conversions (?)

    Timbo, Do you know if your 6's still have the original distillate heads or were any changed to the Gasoline heads? I'm wondering how well they run on gas if they still have the lower compression distillate heads.
  9. My 1942 W-4 with the usual C152 engine appears to have been originally equipped with a gasoline starter tank and many other accessories for multi-fuel use. Naturally like many others it was trimmed of most if not all of those accessories. No particular problems so far, but I still wonder if there is an easy way to ascertain what pistons are in it. Is there a way to deduce any piston information from the compression? This is all hinged on the assumption that different intended fuels were assigned different piston sets. Is that actually true? Is it reasonable to expect that the pistons were changed when the other multi-fuel components were removed? I would just like to have some idea of what's in this one now. *IF* compression is a good indicator, what would be a typical range for gas pistons? Kerosene pistons? Distillate pistons? Thank you!
  10. Even though my 1942 W4 has electric start capabilities, I'd like to hear YOUR recipe for hand (crank) starting your H or 4-series McCormick. I'd just like to be able to develop a method that works reliably for cold start specifically. Most likely you have a different recipe for warm start too. I'd like that also. I THINK there's probably some sage advice for where to set the governor control, choke, how many 'pulls' ( or lifts) and then turn on the mag for one more pull. What procedure always seems to work for you? Thanks,
  11. dwillis4

    Repair / Restoration strategy recommendations?

    OK, I can painfully (Sorry Sam) see the wisdom in the run - fix - run - fix ... paint cycle. You guys sure are dependable ! Sam86, I LOVE the photos of your '49 ! ( PM for more? )
  12. OK, let's say you have a nice little project that needs some light mechanical work, along with some gaskets, seals, etc. to stop the leaks and no *known* bearing issues. Also on the list is a full repaint - red AND silver. There are no serious sheet metal issues and no missing parts. It may well be that the actual leaky seals are limited to the torque tube and rear axles. Regardless, it boils down to two activities - Repairing, and Painting. So here is the question - Would you recommend having the repair work done at one shop and the paint work done later at another shop -OR- would you recommend having the repair and paint done together at one time? It would seem to me that there could be some savings from not having to take it apart twice, BUT there may also be very little 'redundant work' between the two shops if the work is separated. I'm looking for un-biased answers and that's why I'm asking you. What would YOU do? (My shop is set up for WOODworking, and I have no deep IH repair experience)
  13. dwillis4

    "Pilot Tractors" ?? I-6 and ID-6

    Reading through "Serial Number List - Farmall Works" from the Wisconsin Historical Society, and on pages 26 and 29 ( the 6 series pages) there are clear and separate references to "Pilot Tractors" and "Regular Tractors". Looking for an explanation on the differences and the applications of both Industrial models.
  14. dwillis4

    More tire or more weight?

    If more weight is needed would it be a good application for fluid weight like Rim Saver (beet juice)? I ran the numbers on my possible application and found that it would take 14 (!) one piece rear weights to equal two tires @ 80% Rim Saver. It's cheaper than steel too.
  15. Is there an alternative to calcium chloride for tire ballast these days? I am in a snow zone, but I do not want to use anything with the corrosive reputation of years past. Hopefully there have been tech advances in this facet too. Thanks.