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About ibendem

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    Advanced Member

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    Marionville, Missouri
  1. Need an 806 Wheatland panel like this

    There is one at Cook's in Clinton that might have one. I got the side panel off it. It came out of Oklahoma. Grint's farm supply in Sargent, NE has a few wheatlands parted. You might give them a call. I don't have the number handy, but google does. Several standards with the wheatland badge can be found in Oklahoma and Kansas.
  2. 95 truck 466 swapped into 1466

    Gotcha! Yes, the intake and valve cover are integrated. Good information to know. I was looking forward to an inline pump on my 14, but it would appear that is not to be, in this instance. Thanks for the information.
  3. 95 truck 466 swapped into 1466

    It is still a mechanical engine, so I thought perhaps it was still a potential candidate, however I haven't delved deeply into the variations of 400 series engines and their corresponding manufacture dates.
  4. 95 truck 466 swapped into 1466

    I have a 1466 that has a badly frozen and cracked block. I also have acquired a 466 out of a 95 truck that I would like to swap into the tractor, but I have a few questions. First: is it likely that the engine has roller rockers? Second: I'll need to change the front cover to get the mounting ears for the tractor application. Will there be any surprises attempting to install the ag cover while retaining the inline pump? Third: What else am I going to encounter that will confound the installation? I figure the pan will need to be changed, as will the rear cover. Fuel filter bases will need to be mounted, are the mounting holes there, or at least the bosses? Manifolds will also need to be changed to ag type, so will the accessory pulleys. What am I missing? Thanks for any tips and information.
  5. 1020 flex head question

    Thank you for your help, ThirdGenRed. Those pictures are exactly what we were needing .
  6. 1020 flex head question

    Thank you very much ThirdGenRed! That helps considerably. One further question: does your control cable attach directly to the sensing tube on the head, or is there a short piece of 5/16" rod linking the sensing tube to a turnbuckle that is then attached to the cable? A picture of where the cable is attached to the head (under the head) would help immensely. We bought the 5/16" rod and turnbuckle (obscenely expensive) and were thinking we may not need them if the cable goes directly to the sensing tube. Also, as a side note, we have a rock trap making the feederhouse somewhere around 52" if I remember right. Thank you again
  7. 1020 flex head question

    We're trying to set up a 1020 table to run on a 79 1460 with mechanical sensing. We purchased the astronomically priced turnbuckle shown in the parts book, but can't figure out how to mount it up. I was wondering if someone who is running a 1020 on a mechanical machine could post a picture of the sensing adapter where the combine header height control cable attaches to the potentiometer on the head? I sure appreciate it.
  8. 2+2 hydraulic troubles

    Figured I would mention what I have discovered on this problem. I pulled the flow divider plug and used a magnet as a weak slide hammer to get the flow divider spool out. Cleaned the spool and the bore. Reinstalled and bingo! had pressure to clutch assist, ta, trans brake, etc. Steering was still pretty decent and light went out on the dash. Put a 14ft 3pt no till drill on it to work out the bugs. Driveline sawed a hole in mcv pump pressure line so I lost a lot of fluid and replaced the line. Later, low pressure light came on, lost clutch assist, etc then blew mcv pump return line (I'm guessing that's what it is, It was a 3/4 line from the pump to what may be a check block up high on the left side of the speed trans). Anyhow, changed the line, light went out, functions returned to normal. Steering is kinda poor at lower rpms (~1000 or less) and the hand pump is leaking like a sieve. The 3pt raises funny, I didn't know if it would even lift the drill after the trouble I had with the remotes. However, with the rpms greater than 1300, 3pt lever pulled up, draft in center of sensitivity, speed set to fast, hitch pump will growl and arms will start to raise. They move up about 4 inches then stop. Pull back or push forward on motor contol spool lever and when the lever returns to center the arms may move another 4 inches, the may move slowly all the way up, or they may jump up like they are supposed to. Multiple cycles of the motor control lever are often necessary to get the arms all the way up. Rpms must be up and the motor control spool must be used, sometimes to initiate the raising, but always to compete the job. Auxillary spool lever cycles have no effect on performance. Do I have something wrong with the signal line check valve? I've had it out and sprayed it down with brake cleaner and blew it out. I also wonder if the pump is weak. Filters have been changed and hytran level is slightly over full. I appreciate any advice.
  9. 2+2 hydraulic troubles

    Checked mcv pressures tonight. Pressure at the lube port is 0 in TA, DD, and steering turned to stop. Safety valve pressure is 100 in TA, DD, and drops off a little toward 90 when steering is turned to stop. So am I looking for a large leak in the mcv? Or is the mcv pump junk?
  10. 2+2 hydraulic troubles

    Thanks Pete. I flow rated the other set of remotes, tractor has only two sets, the relief pressure was the same on both sets, 2450psi, flow was less on the second set of remotes, about 6-7gpm. Cold, the motor control valve flowed just about 9gpm, maybe 10, at 2400 engine rpm. I have the guages to test the mcv and plan to do that tonight. I don't like the hammering either. Bothered me from the first time I heard it. Steering has resistance and isn't as easy as my 1066, but is very managable, something comparable to a 2470 Case. Clutch assist is almost non existent which, along with the ta problem, made wonder about the flow divider. I'll test first, but expect to have to pull the mcv to look for blown passages in the gasket, or debris in the valving. I'm still pretty lost on the hitch pump... Thanks again.
  11. 2+2 hydraulic troubles

    I appreciate just about any help at this point. I never used the hitch pump hydraulics prior to the filter change. I bought the tractor, brought it home, and gave it a full service. The torque worked prior to my pressure washing it, then quit after. Previous owner used it on a grain cart last fall. Odd noise in mcv pump area has been present for the duration of the tractor's life according to the previous owner. He was straight on everything he told me, so I'm hesitant to doubt him on that.
  12. 2+2 hydraulic troubles

    Thanks for the replies. The steering doesn't pulsate, it operates pretty smoothly. The lines pulsate, especially the steel line under the cab that terminates at the steering hand pump. The noise coming from the mcv pump area resembles what an electric fuel pump sounds like, though more pronounced and aggressive. Noise is worse at low rpms and with the steering against the stops. If pump inlet oil supply is inadequate, what should I look for to remedy the problem(s)?
  13. 2+2 hydraulic troubles

    I'm having hydraulic troubles with my 6588. I can't seem to get more than 9-13 gpm at 2450psi from the hitch pump at the motor control valve outlet. The tractor has fresh hydraulic filters with the bypass installed between the two elements, fresh hytran (slightly over full), and fresh spin on hydraulic filter. I have cleaned and inspected both orifice screens behind the hitch pump signal line and behind the 5/8 plug on the pump. I have also cleaned and inspected the orifice on the inboard side of the auxillary valve mounting block. When under load, the hitch pump may make no noise at all, or it may load the engine slightly and make noise something like it is cavitating and trying to pick up oil, but only for a few seconds, then nothing again. The tractor was running a grain cart prior to my purchasing it. I'm trying to use it on a hydraulic push off manure spreader. It worked for one load, then was unable to really do much more than start the next load. In a related, or perhaps unrelated vein, the hydraulic clutch assist rarely works, the transmission brake is only moderately effective, and the TA doesn't shift. I think it stays in low side. I have removed and cleaned the solenoid and spool valve that operates the TA. The TA spool is moved up and down by the electic over hydraulic actuator, but the TA doesn't shift. If the selector is left in the high side, the solenoid gets too hot to keep your hand on it. The low pressure warning light is lit on the dash. The TA worked when I got the tractor, and I dont remember the warning light being lit, but after a healthy pressure washing, my TA troubles surfaced. Also, having little experience with 2+2s, I wonder if it is normal for the MCV pump on the belly to sort of chatter and pulsate pressure? This one sounds something like the pulsating noise from a boxcar magnum. I'd appreciate any insight or direction. Thanks
  14. Carter and Gruenwald wiring diagrams

    Outstanding! I saved an address as well, but it failed to work. Yours does, however. Thanks!
  15. I went looking for the online wiring diagrams at cngco and was unable to locate them. Does anyone have any insight into this, or am I looking in the wrong place?