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ibendem

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  1. I'd definitely prefer that. Do you remember the user name?
  2. Was the ebay valve from an outfit called arshydraulic out of Finland? Any idea what brand the valve is? Looks almost too good for the money... I wonder if shipping and customs along with fittings adapters would be substantial?
  3. I plan to install a loader on my 1086 for winter feeding and was curious what brand joystick control valve to look for? I plan to have the valve located remotely from the control, since I have no desire for hose routing in the cab. The tractor is a 77 model with open center hydraulics and has two sets of remotes. The remotes will be used to control a bale processor, and as such will be unavailable to power the loader. I appreciate any advice.
  4. I might ought to add that I tried to free it by just prying on the driveshaft with a bar, but I wasn't horse enough to break it loose.
  5. Once it came loose, it went easy, not like a rough spot to get past, easy all the way around. Wish I would've drained the oil prior to freeing it up, but that's hind sight. I put heads and head gaskets and fire rings on it probably 2 or 3 years prior to parking it. Dad got it hot and cracked the originals. I did torque and re torque the heads when I put them on. I learned that the hard way on a TD14. On this deal, I too was concerned that water got in it and cracked the sleeves. But, best I can tell, it could almost as likely be a coolant mist that caused the pistons to stick due to a lack of oil mist on the cylinder walls. I know a decent way to tell would be to pull the pan, but man I'm not looking forward to that... I might ought to add that I tried to free it by just prying on the driveshaft with a bar, but I wasn't horse enough to break it loose. That's why I opted for the loader.
  6. I tried to push/pull it in 3rd gear. It wasn't happening. I put it in 6th and pulled steady. The loader is essentially barefoot and it spun. Granted, the dozer has sat in the same spot for 13 years so it would likely take some force just to get it out of its tracks. I pulled up to the blade with the bucket and pushed...back and forth, pull and push, didn't jerk, but made contact and pulled and pushed steady. After probably 4 or so times, I noticed it moved just a bit. I went one more and made sure, then stopped and put more diesel concoction in the cylinders. Let it set for awhile, like a week, then got under it with a bar though the winch driveshaft off the crank, I heaved on it with my feet and it moved. Took some power. I then put a big pipe wrench on the driveshaft and pulled the engine the other direction. Switched back and took it most of the way around. Plugs were out for all of these activities.
  7. I have a 691 in a TD 20-200 dozer. I last used it in early 2008 and though it has been stored under cover, with a rain cap on the exhaust, the engine became stuck, likely on #4 and maybe #2 as indicated by corrosion on those spark plugs when removed. I treated all cylinders with diesel fuel, atf, and paint thinner through the spark plug hole with the decompression lever pulled. After setting for about 6 weeks, I pulled the spark plugs back out, pulled the decompression lever, put it in 6th gear and gently pushed and pulled on it with an H60 wheel loader. The engine freed up and I was eventually able to turn it over by hand. I drained the engine oil and noticed a trace of antifreeze that came out first. I then poured clean engine oil into each cylinder, replaced plugs, and allowed it to set for a day or so. After removing the plugs again (I'm getting good at it by now) I turned the engine over by hand with the fan in an attempt to use the oil to flush out my antiseize mixture whereupon antifreeze puked out of #2 and #4 along with the clean engine oil. Not a lot, but it was noticable. Now to my question: do I have a liner leaking from the getting stuck or freeing up procedures, or do I have a head or head gasket problem that initially caused those cylinders to stick due to washing the walls down prior to shutdown and now showing up in my oil flush? Thank you for any input.
  8. Wow! Yes lots of difference! It appears the transmission tunnel portion of the floor board is entirely different. I have a donor engine in a frame cut off from an S-series. That will obviously not be enough. Thank you for the information and pictures. I think I'll keep an eye out for a donor truck.
  9. I have a 77 1750 loadstar, butterfly hood, extended grille, with DV550 and 5 &2 in it. I'm intimately familiar with the 550 and get along with them alright in other tractors and trucks we have. However, I am curious what would be involved in changing the V8 out for an inline 6 as the 550 gets tired? Specifically, is a doghouse in the firewall needed? Although I've seen Loadstars with 466s in them in the past, I can't remember if considerable modifications would be necessary. If there are some pictures of the engine compartment on 466 powered loadstars floating around, I would certainly appreciate the opportunity to view them, as well as gather any information about the peculiarities of of trucks with that power train. Thanks
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