Martin Thompson

The new thermostat fits in the opposite way to what it says on it and it will work fine (only way it can fit). We have had one in our W6 for a few years without any trouble. Marty,NZ

I subscribe to Red Power ,Dad subscribes to Antique Power and we swap them between us. Being down here in New Zealand ,we also have several British (Heritage Tractor, Classic Tractor, Tractor and Machinery ,Tractor and Farming Heritage to name a few) and a Australian magazine (Old Machinery) on the shelves of the local bookshops recently. We only get them from time to time, when we see an article or two that we want to read. It is not cheap getting some of these magazines especially if they were air freighted into NZ. I often get our local trucking magazines too , like NZ trucking, NZ Truck and Driver and Truck Journal but only when I am near the local bookstore. Marty,NZ

Are you turning the engine over when your are trying to get fuel to the injectors or trying to pump it up with the hand primer? Had those old Nissan Diesel engines in some Nissan forklifts I serviced and they would need to be turned over on the starter to get the fuel to the injectors, the hand primer just wouldn't do it. If you have fuel at the pump with no air try winding the engine over with the injector pipes cracked and see what happens. If you have no fuel then you will have a problem with the injection pump eg; stuck fuel rack Marty,NZ

I have tried some Steiner tractor parts gauges and have found they are not the best. The Oil pressure gauges read too high, but the temperature gauges seem to work fine so far. I will be getting any gauges for our old Farmalls from Precision tractor parts from now on. The Precision tractor parts gauges are Rochester gauges, like the originals and are made in USA ( just like the gauges OEM tractor parts used to sell before they closed their doors). Only thing I can fault with the OEM gauges is that the IHC logo is not exactly the same as the original gauges but they all work great. Marty,NZ.

I got lucky and found this (C&M) 1/16th scale W4 on ebay a few years ago but it didn't come with the box. A 1/16 scale W6 would be cool to go with it , then we would have a 1/16th scale model of all our small collection of full size tractors. Universal hobbies did make a 1/43 scale W6 but a 1/16 scale would be so much better. Marty,NZ

I would probably add some thread locker and forget the tabs. Marty,NZ

If it's a Farmall Super A then yes. Different decals were used. The earlier Farmall A will have letter A with the word cultivision curved over the A or just the letter A. Marty, NZ

Samuel sorry for taking so long to reply. It looks like you are progressing nicely. ODB is for the light switch, marks the positions of the switch. Open is for the radiator shutters. Be careful goes on the fuel tank five inches to the rear of the tank from the fuel filler neck. Safety first is the one decal I am not sure about but I think it goes on the fuel tank below the be careful decal. I have seen this decal on fenders, pto shields, fuel tanks ,transmission tops. This photo is from the Wisconsin Historical Societies McCormick collection shows the safety first decal on the fuel tank. Two warning decals are on the rear of the seat. They will be for the drawbar/ hitch. Don't forget to fit a Farmall grille emblem. Marty, NZ

Yes that's it. For some reason the set I have used did not have cultivision on the A decal. Most are listed as pre 1945. Marty,NZ

That is a gasoline manifold and carb. The distillate/kerosene carb has an adjustable main jet where your carb has the plug(Bottom of your carb facing the front of the tractor). The adjusting part of the main jet is available but unless you plan to run on kerosene and have all the rest of the attachments there is no need for it. IH used pistons of different heights to change compression. A kerosene/distillate engine has a lower compression than a gasoline engine but as most engines will have been rebuilt the pistons may have been changed to taller pistons to lift the compression. Mine goes good the way it is so have never looked any further to see if they have been changed or not. If my Farmall A had been missing most of the distillate parts I would have made it a gasoline version, as there is not a lot of difference . I would have filled the extra hole in the hood and no one would notice any difference. There is no serial number record of the kerosene/distillate engines (that I know of) and unlike the bigger Farmalls no suffix stamped with the serial numbers. Marty,NZ

Your Farmall A may have been a kerosene equipped tractor originally but will run on gasoline too. I run mine on gasoline but wanted it back to original specifications. The temperature gauge sender mounting ,extra hole in the hood are signs that it may have originally had the kerosene attachments. Unless you have the kerosene manifold, the small fuel tank ,radiator shutters , the carburetor with an adjustable main jet , I would fill the extra hole in the hood , tidy up the hole for the exhaust pipe and restore it as a gasoline version. A temperature gauge was optional on a gasoline engine so you could still fit one if you wanted to. Precision tractor parts make the original style gauges. Depends on how far you want to go. My decals came from guy that was selling of some of his spare parts and had the radiator shutter linkage I needed. Places like your CaseIH dealer, devons tractor parts steinertractorparts.com or maple hunter decals should be able to supply. Just make sure you get McCormick Deering without the IH logo. I have used the mylar decals but vinyl decals are available too. Mylar are one big decal with clear between the letters similar to the decals IH used. Vinyl is the letters only so you don't get the outline of the decal. Marty,NZ

Nice 1944 Farmall A. It will come up nice. As mentioned above your Farmall A has a Farmall Cub magneto (J4) and should have H4 magneto that most IH tractors of that era had. Just watch for the H4 magnetos for the diesel engines as the spin the wrong direction. I notice that there is no heavy cast wheel center on the drivers side. It helps balance the weight of the offset engine. Early Farmall A (1939) did not have this heavy cast center and were more likely to roll over. I have this 1941 Farmall A ,that is a hand crank only ,kerosene equipped machine. This is how I bought it back in 2010. H4 magneto before I rebuilt it. Shows how it should mount. Hope you don't mind I copied your photo. This is where the temperature sensor fits when a temperature gauge is fitted. Kerosene/ Distillate manifold. This is what the other hole in the hood is for ,the starting gasoline tank. Temperature gauge is shown on the governor housing. The radiator also has shutters fitted. The bolts in your head between cylinder 1 and 2 would make me think that a starting fuel tank had been fitted too. The hood with the extra hole for the starting tank. Pre 1946 did not have the IH logo and the Deering name was dropped in 1949. Hope this is of some help . Marty,NZ

Thanks to all for sharing these awesome photos. Sadly there are a lot of us who cant make it ,and all your efforts to post all these photos is really appreciated. All I can say is please keep up the good work. Marty,NZ

Sorry to hear this Billy. Thoughts with you all during this very difficult time. Marty,NZ

My W4 is a lot quieter now we have fitted new bearings through the transmission and back end. Same goes for the W6 Dad and I have. We have used 85/140 gear oil which also seems to of helped with making them a bit quieter. The W4 and W6 are now similar noise wise to Dads Farmall H. The rear fenders will amplify any gear noise too in my experience and Dads Farmall H does not have fenders. The W6 was quieter without the fenders when we did the first road test after the transmission rebuild. Also the seat position can make a lot of difference . Marty,NZ