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twood1954

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twood1954 last won the day on March 19 2023

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About twood1954

  • Birthday 01/18/1954

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    Male
  • Interests
    Tractor pulling

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  1. Bob was a great friend and mentor. He always let you know what you did wrong. The last time both of us where at a pull with our tractors. I made one of my best runs I have ever made, and Bob walk over and said to me "There nothing more I can teach you." I will miss him. Great Man and Friend.
  2. Thanks for Birthday wishes. Take Care.
  3. Edsen just turn 68 last week. He does my engine work for me. One of the best. If I remember right he told me he started with 560 diesel with twin turbos and keep having issues blowing it up. Now he has the 1486 "The King" and the 460.
  4. Edsen just turn 68 last week. He does my engine work for me. One of the best.
  5. I agree 680 cc is too much. I am running "high dollar" 3x4 turbo and 800 to 900 cc seem to be enough.
  6. F-301 puller you are correct. I would guess 250 300 cc would be close, but I don't know as I run Light Limited Super Stock tractor. The point of my post was to hear stories of bad advice you have heard.
  7. I just re-read the post on tec. page on putting a Bosch P7100 pump on 361. It got me thinking about all the information I have heard from pullers and keyboard pulls. I will give you the best one I heard. I had a P3000 pump for sale a young man called me and wanted to know maximum output. I informed him 680 cc. He stated that is was not big enough. He needs at least 1000 cc. This raised my curiosity. So, I asked him what he had for tractor and what engine, turbo and what class he was planning on pulling. It was a stock 1066 with 3lm turbo in farm stock class. He passed on buying my pump because it was too small. The person I finally sold it to had built up 414 with better turbo and he has the pump turned clear down. Please share your interesting tails. I am sure there are great tall tales out there. Have a Happy Thanksgiving.
  8. Finally got the tractor in shop for first time. The electrician has the lighting and over head door temporarily hooked up so I can use them. Power company hopefully will hook up service this week. It is sure nice to work on tractor in shop instead of trailer. Have a great weekend
  9. I guess I need to explain why fibers and based 30 years plus of doing pavement research I respectively believe fiber are better that rebar or wire mess for controlling cracking. First of all you need to make sure your base is solid. When we prepared the site last fall, we removed the organic soils and compacted the sandy loam soil to 95% max density. (I ran the tests) We then put 12 inches of MNDOT class 5 gravel in 3-inch lifts compacted to max density. Having read you post I believe some of your issues are not enough binder in gavel to supply strength. As far as not see any signs of fiber are you sure the supplier put them in and if they did, they did you check to see if they were uniformly distributed. Since i am data guy and have access to testing equipment I cast strength cylinders. To see how much strength, we gained using 3 lbs. of macro fiber. The concrete mix used was 4500 psi mix design without fibers the 7-day breaks were over 6000 psi for the cylinders. Normally 4500 psi concrete from this supplier would have 7-day strengths around 5000 psi. How the issues I have with rebar. 1. to work properly the rebar must be place exactly 1/3 of the way from bottom of slab. Any higher you risk spalling of the concrete and lower you do not get value for reducing crack. What you're trying to do with steel or fibers is to control micro cracks from forming. The micro cracks if not sealed will allow water in which will case issues with marginally constructed base and spalling of the concrete. IMO the only way to guarantee placement is to use chairs to put the rebar on. Per specification the maximum chair placement is 2 feet apart. The unknown about placing rebar on chairs is did any of them get knocked over while placing the concrete. The rebar being supported above the base is a trip hazard also. 2 being we placed tubing for in floor heat I did not want to risk low steel damaging the tubing. 3 If you place rebar in concrete that is rusty you risk pack rust from forming. This can be a issue if the PH of you aggregate is wrong. As far as long-term performance. MNDOT has use fiber for over twenty years on Interstate highways. The areas they use them are over what they call trench support areas or high-water table areas. Before fibers they use to build rebar mats out #12 rebars on 1-foot gride supported on chairs. The oldest one where they replace the rebar mat with fibers was place across a swamp I35 W just south of Minneapolis in 1998 and the pavement rides good and has no middle panel cracks. I would leave you all with this thought, use what every you comfortable with, there is may ways to build a good concrete pad. Last point the Romans showed us how to build roads. The 2 key points they left are; good drainage and proper density are crucial. Have a safe and Happy 4th. Tom
  10. Sorry for delay in replying, I sourced my tubing for the heat from my engine builder brother who works for a HVAC supplier. The design work and installation was done by their design engineer as side job.
  11. Shop is almost done. Floor in place, they finished insulation of walls and putting steel on yesterday. The overhead door goings today and ceiling insulation early next week. Electrical should be done in a week or so. Been fun project, we are looking forward to moving all my tools and stuff out of my trailer so I can go pulling. Thanks for following the journey.
  12. Floor and approach is done. Now waiting for building company to finish the inside.
  13. We will keep system pressurized during pour. They are planning using conveyor to place concrete. We are using macro fibers which is stronger than re-bar. The guy that designed the system for me recommends placing tubing right on top of the insulation. He works for a jobber who supplies all the HVAC equipment for 9 states. The building inspector was impressed with installation. He stated that very rarely does he see the red pex tubing as it is much stronger that what The Home Depot sells and cost much more. I was able to buy all the components for less than what the big box stores sell the lesser quality materials. I can't believe the mark up. The boiler we got cost less than half. Have a great day. If you are lucky enough to still have mother around makes sure and wish them a great Mother's Day.
  14. Heating will be LP boiler. Thanks for the comments. Concrete should go in next week or first of following week.
  15. Finally making some progress with new shop. Got the grade to grade and compacted, Put the Styrofoam insulation down. Today we put the in floor heating tubing in. Need to finish perimeter insulation and have inspection of the heating and then can pour floor.
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