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Orchard6

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About Orchard6

  • Birthday 09/27/1983

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    central west michigan
  • Interests
    In no particular order farming, Red tractors, my family.
    Your crops may be green, but mine are red! Proud to be an apple farmer!

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  1. Orchard6

    recoil pad

    No disrespect to mmi but I think of him as Red Powers version of Boomhower! I can’t hardly understand what he types either but if others can and can help him that’s great.
  2. I was hoping to see a Farmall B turned around like a Johns or Wilde style!
  3. No, sabots can be used in rifled slug barrels, in fact that’s what most are designed for.
  4. The 350 should fit the bill since your in Ohio. I’ve used a 357 Magnum in a 20” carbine the last few years and have been pretty impressed by its abilities, that said a 350 legend is basically a rimless .357 MAXIMUM and should be great on deer sized game.
  5. I like my pellet stoves. The heat is almost as good as wood without the mess and work of cutting, splitting and stacking!
  6. Your cultivators should come with a rock shaft that mounts to the rear and hooks up to the Touch Control rock shaft under the gas tank via a long rod. The rod if I remember right (it’s been a few years since I had mine on) should run just to the left of the trans deck plate to the rear.
  7. The C should have a rock shaft under the gas tank and that is where you hook your mounted cultivators to in order to lift them. The cultivators should be the same for C and early Supers, the later Supers could’ve had 2 point fasthitch that would not work with earlier models. I’ve never seen a factory hydraulic remote on a C but I’ve seen plenty farmer fabricobbled jobs, some good some not so pretty. Another difference between the two is that the peddles are curved on a super and straight on a C, also supers had heavier castings from the torque tube back to stand up to the added stresses of the fasthitch. Being locked in gear is usually caused by the end of the shifter wearing out and not making contact with the shift rail. If you pull the shifter out you can line the rails back up with a long screwdriver and do some welding and grinding on your shifter and you’ll be back in business.
  8. Mine is a ‘49 that originally came with solid cast fronts. Grandad and most guys in the area put standard spoked wheels on as to make steering easier. I’d have to really do some more research but I’ve heard it a few times over the years that the cast wheels indicated a low, low first gear.
  9. Don’t know if you’ve considered an air cooled Duetz but I’d think it’d be easier to fabricobble in there without a need for a cooling system. I’ve never seen it done but if I were going the diesel route it’d be the way I’d take.
  10. Solid wheels came with the creeper low 1st gear.
  11. Thanks guys. It’s rougher in person than it looks but it’s not horrid either. I’ll probably just keep it as is until I’m ready to fully retire her which could be awhile!
  12. Sounds like you guys have a good collection of O’s! I still use mine just enough that I’m not really ready to do a full on resto yet. I’d be too scared of scratching it to use it if it had fresh paint!
  13. Looking good! When you’re done I’ll drop mine off!
  14. I think it was more of a regional thing. In citrus growing areas they call their fields groves and in pome and stone fruit areas they’re called orchards. I’m not sure if those particular decals were factory or dealer applied though.
  15. Beautiful pictures Tony! That 3010 sure does look nice, even if it's green!
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