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Rod Smith

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Posts posted by Rod Smith

  1. Stevej,

    The other option that may have worked would be the installation of the fast heat, pencil type glow plugs jimb2 linked in his post.  Depending on the contact point, the pencil type glow plugs are more narrow than the old champion ch28 loop style plugs that come from the factory and (in my experience) are likely not to make contact with the precombustion chambers, along with a whole host of other benefits.  

  2. When you get it fixed, the flow control valve should be set in the slow position if you are just using the hydraulics for the 3pt, if ran on the fast position, the 3pt draft control may be too jumpy/over responsive.  And like the others have said, make sure the isolation valve is open, I remember when I was young and my grandfather had to remind me of that, as you could hear the pump whine when the isolator valve became partially closed (I swear, it just seemed to partially close the more you got off and on the tractor as it seemed by leg would rub up against it) and I got told how much money a hydraulic pump would cost.  

  3. Looking at my book that I record my maintenance in, I have the rear axle felt as #703915r1 and the rear axle seal as 703917r92, however, for some reason I also wrote # 100541 Next to the axle seal number ( didn’t write any notes as to why).  The gasket number is 711197r1, although now I just use permeatex,  The Right Stuff instead of gaskets.

    i replaced these parts in 2015  axle housing needs to come off and shaft needs to be pressed out in order to Replace gasket.  a lot more involved (hydraulic housing needs to be lifted off) to my surprise, than the 504 utility I had done a year or two before (take wheel off, loosen 4 bolts for axle plate, replace seal).

    I have had limited success with finding skf number interchanges and often have to resort to buying seals from the dealer instead of NAPA.  Great tractors though, much better design, in my opinion, than other ih tractors of the same class



    I agree with the cold oil thoughts, especially the hydraulics. I just want to make sure she starts when I want to start.  It’s a lot like insurance, I have it just in case, and if things work out great, I won’t need to use it.  Would love it, if it didn’t get so cold here.  But I did rebuild the engine a couple of years ago so she’s not wore out anD anything I can do to maintain something, I generally do.


    Many of the fords up here come factory with the block heater.  Wife’s old fusion had it.  I have come to appreciate having one in my daily driver 82 chev. It’s allowed me to get to work on a few mornings when she wasn't going to go. Beats the old incandescent light bulb under the hood trick. 

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  5. Rainman,


    thanks for the info.  I will look into that.  Our amazon availability is not as good as you guys.  You guys can get everything, which is great.


    My concern with finding a 1 5/8 frost plug heater is that I get one were the element has the right depth projection, and does not touch the side of the engine block.  As for a heater on a gasser, I want one for the same reason I run one on my 82 chev, they start a lot easier, less initial wear on start up, and easier on the battery. I don’t run this thing everyday, so it will go weeks without running and a little heat just makes life easier.  I’ve had it on the odd very cold night were it was a bear to start (starts great in regular weather, generally starts good in winter).  The heat just adds a bit of insurance and rids one of some potential frustration.

    Thanks for the help folks, it’s much appreciated.  

  6. Good evening,

    I was hoping someone could direct me to a frost plug heater for my International 340 with a gas c135.  The frost plug is 1 5/8”. I have looked on Katz brochure, but cannot find one listed.  

    I have done quite a bit of google work and there are some listed on American eBay and also at this link that appear to work, https://www.completetractor.com/new-frost-plug-heater-for-case-international-tractor-combine-106725a1/  However, I need one that I can source in Canada  as the exchange rate and more significantly, the cost to ship really add to the cost.  Shipping seems to have gone through the roof and would likely cost at least $30.

    I have found the numbers Atlantic 1709-7001, and Stens 3009-1013 (can’t find it on the stens site) but I am not certain these will work.

    Any clarification on this topic would be greatly appreciated.




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