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Rod Smith

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About Rod Smith

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    Cars, tractors IH 504,IH340, woodworking

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  1. J-Mech, I am not going to reuse the bearings. I will buy a rebuild kit with new bearings, I just included the pic to show the standard measurement. Do you think the crank looks superficially good? I thought it looked fine and I plan on using it. Thanks, Rod
  2. 560 Dennis, the only thing that makes me think that the balancing was done after was the drilled metal still being shiny/ Have you seen them balance from the factory? Thank, you for your advice on the extra work to be done via the block and pump. I have attached some pics of the journals of this crank. If you could look at them and let me know your opinion that would be great. My quick measurements show it to be factory specs. I need to do a bit more measuring, but have to take my son to hockey, Thanks guys. Rod
  3. The crank is clean and useable under the bearing shells. I asked a couple of guys familiar with cranks about getting mine ground and they said with the pitting on the mains and the fact it has already been turned 10 thou it would likely not be a good candidate so I have been looking for a used one. I can buy the one in the picture for $100 Canadian, which is $75USD but was concerned with the grinding and drilling as I didn't think it was common to balance a Farmall A crank and wasn't sure if it looked like a shop did it. I attached a pic of my crank and the pitted main journal. Two out of 3 mains are pitted.
  4. I will have to check this weekend. Hopefully it can be fixed properly, but you have given me plenty to look for and think about, which I am thankful for. Just got a pic texted to me that may give a little more perspective. Still not easy to see, but lucky to get these as dad's still learning to use the smartphone.
  5. J-mech, It had coolant, than I drained it and filled it with straight water to get it running. That will account for the rust. That’s the best pic I have of the head. I pulled the engine at my fathers place and brought it home for a rebuild, but left the head at dads. Going to grab the head this week and will post a better picture. The guy I bought it from said he got the head fully rebuilt. The head even has a little medallion on it stating it is rebuilt. I don’t have much experience with machine shops/machining. I didn’t talk to the owner when I bought it as I purchased it from his son due to health issues. You make a good point on the valves that i didn’t notice. Could some one have put in the wrong intake valves like they did with the wrong head gasket?I haven’t paid much attention to the head as I assumed rebuilt would mean no issues. I’ll do some measuring on the weekend and go from there. I will have to do a full rebuild. Thank you for your help so far
  6. Hello, I posted another topic a few days ago about head gaskets on a C113 and now I am in need of some help concerning C113 crankshafts. I have a BN serial #169248 which makes it a 1946, the crank # 46402dc. The crank I have had been sitting in oil/prestone mixture and is excessively pitted and needs to be replaced. I have two questions. Question One I found another crank from a Farmall A, but if you look at the picture the crank has been drilled and grinded on. In the picture, the top crank is mine that I am replacing, the bottom crank is the one I was going to replace mine with. My question is, why has it been drilled and ground down, and should I use it? I do not think the drilling/grinding is factory as it is still shiny. The grind is bluish. Second Question What cranks can I interchange with my motor and what are the effects/use with the end pulley? My crank presently has a pulley with a set screw and I see you can purchase new crank pullies but they do not have the set screw and a only an interference fit. Your advice is appreciated. This tractor has not been a simple as some of the other one I have done and I do not have much experience with letter series. Rod
  7. Hi Guys I have attached a pic of my head and my head gasket. J-Mech, I'm glad to hear you feel the corrosion around the at the water port does not seem bad. After reading augercreeks post I took a better look at my head gasket and the one's on the internet. I think, please correct me if I am wrong, that the gasket that was on there is one for a Super A with a water pump and not my 47 BN C113 engine without a water pump. Would this cause the issue? I also have a question concerning crankshafts that I am going to post in a new topic for the sake of clarity. Hopefully that is fine by forum rules and if you guys could look the pictures over and give me your opinion my crank issue that would be great. Thanks, Rod
  8. Thanks for the reply guys. Truly appreciate the information and helpfulness found on the forum here. I had just got ahead of myself and jumped to conclusions assuming it was a sleeve leak issue. I will have to go back and recheck with the head on as suggested. Mmi, your right on the half in half out thought. I really should of slowed down my thought process when she was all together and running. The gasket looks okay, one of those ones that are metal both sides, but I am still leary of reusing a head gasket which I think the previous owner had done and may of been the issue. I was just concerned that the pitting at that water jacket hole would be an issue, but if the old gaskets had one large hole for both ports feeding into a single port in the head than I do not feel as concerned. Thanks, Rod
  9. Good day and thank you in advance for your advice. Here is my problem/question that I need some guidance on. Problem I am concerned that the head gasket on this C113 engine will not seal with this bit of corrosion on the coolant ports on the deck of the block. The first picture shows the corrosion and the second picture shows the coolant ports (between cylinder 2 and 3) for perspective. The third image shows a C113 head. I gave the deck a light sand with 1000 grit to knock off the grime so I could kinda see where she sealed up. Could not determine were the leak was coming from, but it was internal and getting into the oil. Background Engine is presently out of tractor and tore down, Going to rebuild it. The tractor is a late Farmall BN (worse shape than I thought). Engine was rebuilt at least once and it appears to have been a long time ago. Previous owner had head rebuilt at machine shop but could never get the tractor to run in his attempt three or so years ago. Sat since then. I bought it, drained the engine oil which was full of coolant. Got the tractor to run (ran good) and noticed more water in the oil. The leak was an internal leak. I jumped to the conclusion that the head and head gasket were not the issue due to the rebuild and that it must be a liner issue (a pin hole or the sealing 0-ring). Tore the engine down, filled up the water jackets, no leaks into the block. Leads me to believe it may be leaking coolant at the head gasket. I am uncertain of the previous owners head gasket install. The gasket appears to be an older Victor Remez VR3150 (not the newer felpro that I am familiar with) which he may of reused (not a fan of doing this) and could be the issue. Not sure if he torqued down in proper sequence or if he used torque spec (65 foot pounds, seemed to be much more than this). Head and block are straight checked with straight edge and feeler guage and sleeve protrusion is acceptable. I am concerned that maybe this corrosion on the block deck of the coolant ports may be the leak. What is your opinion? I am on the fence as the two ports feed into one single port on the head as you can see from the head photo I found on the net and I thought if they did leak it should be an external leak. I appreciate everyone's help/advice on this board. I avidly read the forums every few days. Thanks, Rod
  10. I used Hy-tran and I believe I used a NAPA Gold filter which is the same as a WIX.
  11. Carl and Paul, I bought the rebuilt ones on ebay and placed them in and the left/forward check valve still leaked. The ebayer I bought them from had 100 percent good feedback on his rebuilt check valves. I then swapped out the check valve with three other check valves and they still did the same. I switched left to right, and still the same. I have also done a full drain/refill and new filter. I am a little confused as to why this is happening. I am assuming that there must be someway that in the trans case, it is building pressure internally and it is being forced out the valve, but I do not know what or how. To be honest, I am not to sure how these valves work and what triggers them to "release". Carl, I bought an old IH 2001 loader from you a few years ago, if you remember. Loader works great on my 504. Thought I would let you know. Thanks, Rod
  12. Cub Cadet 782 The issue: The forward (left when sitting on tractor) check valve leaks oil out of the top of the check valve hole. Sometimes it is a little, other times it is a lot (like an ounce in a few minutes), sometimes it is under pressure (think mini volcano), and other times it is not. Sometimes it does not leak. It seems to like to leak every 4 or so grass cuttings. I take the valve out and place it back in and it usually stops, but not always. What I have done: Replaced both Check Valves with rebuilt ones I purchased off ebay, and after the left one started to leak again I have placed numerous used ones in with always the same result. I am confident it is not the check valve. I have verified that the little brass plug/vent on top of the axle casing is clean and clear. I have gone around and tightened all bolts up. I have no visual leaks aside from the top of the left check valve, but I have replaced a few parts just in case. I put in new cub cadet springs and o-rings on the two charge pressure relief valves (implement and charge valve). I have put a new seal and o-ring on the charge pump. I have replaced oil filter and have used Hy-tran (to the fill plug) in this machine over the last seven years of ownership. Nothing I do has fixed this issue. I have read through the service manual and tried to find an answer on the internet, but with no success. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Rod
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