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Cattech

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Everything posted by Cattech

  1. Well, those couple flakes of clutch disk are concerning, but not what I would expect if you had a clutch pack failure. Also would only have lost one gear as this trans is a single clutch per gear trans. I'm still wondering about the neutralizer function dumping off pressure. Try unhooking the air line to the trans that comes from the left pedal. PM me an email address and I will PDF print the full power train service manual and send your way.
  2. An interesting thing I found on my MTD/Cub mower deck, the spindle grease fittings did not actually grease the bearings. Where the grease came out of the shaft, it basically filled the upper cavity and out the seal, so it was more to push out contaminates than lubricate the bearings. I drilled new holes in the spindles and reversed the upper seals so grease had to push through the bearings and come out the bottom.
  3. As you describe is generally a sign of a worn joint, the grease is following the path of least resistance and coming out accordingly. Obviously, the ideal practice would be to rebuild the joints, but it's not a perfect world we live in. A good practice is to unload the joint and give it some grease, work it around. An example is truck king pins on the steer axle... it was specified that you were to jack up the axle before greasing the pins so grease would flow to the area carrying the load. A really picky guy would raise and lower the tires off the ground several times to get the grease dispersed. What you describe is also an indication that you may not be greasing often enough. Say a joint should get 10 pumps of grease in a workday, 2 pumps every other hour will be more effective than giving it all 10 before or after the shift. That's why these autolube systems on equipment have become so popular. How you want to handle it is up to you. My old man would grease things every other yr whether it needs it or not... but most stuff only would get 10 hrs a yr so it really didn't matter.
  4. So, first thing, make sure you don't have something external causing the problem. Does your left brake pedal return fully, the tredle valve under it isn't sending air pressure to the neutralizer?... Shift linkage is in good shape and firmly shifting the control spool into the detented positions? Next, no indications of a serious problem, oil isn't burnt up, no debris in screen or filter? I admit, I haven't really worked on this model trans, so can't give you any common problem points. I will paste the Cat problem list. Check List During Operation Transmission PROBLEM: Transmission does not operate in any speed or does not engage (slips) in all speeds. PROBABLE CAUSE: 1. Low oil pressure caused by: a. Low oil level. b. Control linkage loose or adjustment not correct. c. Failure of the oil pump or the pump drive. d. Air leaks on inlet side of pump. e. Leakage inside the transmission. f. Adjustment of the modulating relief valve not correct, or valve does not close. g. Load piston not closing. 2. Mechanical failure in transmission. 3. Failure of torque converter. 4. Failure of the bevel pinion or the bevel gear. PROBLEM: Transmission does not shift. PROBABLE CAUSE: 1. Low oil pressure. 2. Air leaks on inlet side of pump. 3. Control linkage loose or adjustment not correct. PROBLEM: Transmission engages very suddenly (rough shifting). PROBABLE CAUSE: 1. Primary setting of the relief valve not correct. 2. Adjustment of control linkage not correct. 3. Load piston not closing. 4. Valve springs that are weak or have damage. PROBLEM: Slow shifting. PROBABLE CAUSE: 1. Low oil pressure. 2. Inside and outside linkages adjustment not correct. 3. Air leaks on inlet side of pump. 4. Load piston not closing. PROBLEM: Transmission does not operate in first speed. PROBABLE CAUSE: 1. No. 4 clutch not engaged (slips) because of: a. Low oil pressure. b. Discs and plates have too much wear. PROBLEM: Transmission does not operate in second speed. PROBABLE CAUSE: 1. No. 2 clutch not engaged (slips) because of: a. Low oil pressure. b. Discs and plates have too much wear. PROBLEM: Transmission does not operate in third speed. PROBABLE CAUSE: 1. No. 1 clutch does not engage (slips) because of: a. Low oil pressure. b. Discs and plates have too much wear. PROBLEM: Transmission does not operate in reverse. PROBABLE CAUSE: 1. No. 3 clutch does not engage (slips) because of: a. Low oil pressure. b. Discs and plates have too much wear. PROBLEM: Transmission does not shift out of a speed and/or direction when the shift lever is moved to NEUTRAL. PROBABLE CAUSE: 1. Control linkage having damage or wrong adjustment. 2. Clutch not releasing. PROBLEM: Transmission engages, torque converter stalls and the engine has a load condition. Machine does not move. PROBABLE CAUSE: 1. Mechanical failure in the transmission. a. Parts that have damage. b. A clutch not correctly engaged. 2. Failure of the bevel gear or the bevel pinion. 3. Failure in the final drive.
  5. By the looks of the Sys Op diagram, that port is where the load piston bleeds off excess oil when in a pressure limiting state. If the load piston is stuck shifted to the left, it would bleed off trans pressure.
  6. Cattech

    scam ads

    10+ yrs ago when these scams were relatively new I nearly fell for one. They wanted money sent through "Ebay Motors buyer protection program" which they claimed was a legit service related to PayPal... took lots of digging to figure out it didn't exist. Call me dense, but even then I didn't realize it was all a scam, thought a legit seller was just misled... but when I demanded to purchase the car in person they came up with all sorts of excuses. I got a little red faced but didn't lose any money. 5 yrs later, I still seen ads with the same car/pictures popping up on various sites. These days, as mentioned above, the thieves are probably going after your information and computer. Your email isn't important, what they do is get you to click on an emailed link so you can see more info or pictures, but behind the scene it's downloading a virus that gives them unfettered access to your browsing... next time you access your bank account they know what your finances are, then you order something online and they get your credit card numbers.... next thing you know, you're broke.
  7. Just had a clean old KW cabover with a Cat 3408 in the shop. Wish I could have taken a couple pictures.
  8. Seeing one of these modern versions would almost be worth the trip across the pond.
  9. I knew the 1026 was a hydro, but available with a gear drive. Didn't think the 826 was available as a hydro? And, good thread, I have always wondered about these models too. Hopefully someone can really explain them. Would have been completely understandable if they had all been hydrostatic drives, or all gear drive. Either, high tech (for the era) hydro models... or a stripped down model made to compete with other brands... but not both. That said, they had the "X56 - Custom" models as price point tractors and sold them side by side with '26s. And if a X26 was a stripper, then how did they get to be gold demos? Confusing.
  10. Maybe good to develop new mechanics. But... for realism, it should say... you're not authorized to service this system, please contact your local JD dealer.
  11. It's for that new movie... Zomdeers
  12. However, the steepness of slopes is never as apparent in pictures or video as actually standing there. I have a big valley on my new property, tried to take some pictures that give a perspective of the depth and slopes. The pictures look pretty tame, but it took me the better part of an hour to navigate my ATV up the few hundred yards, and it took using the winch to finally climb out. Any one of these, if I climbed off the wheeler, it would have tipped over. The first video in this thread shows one point where the rear wheels on the chopper are coming off the ground, and another where it can't climb the slope with AWD. That's probably pretty steep.
  13. Being in MT, would they have run triples for stability? Because as mentioned, if looking for traction I would think they'd have found the limits of axle durability. Also, don't they have those floating hayfields in some parts?
  14. Enjoy while it lasts, one of these days my Snow Checked new sled shall arrive. If history repeats, most of North America will be void of snow until I give up and sell it.
  15. (waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay overpriced, aldi has a version for 1/3 of the price) I seen Coborns had their own house version propped next to the DOTS last time I was at the grocery store. (They just entered into a sales agreement with their pretzel baker partner) Now it makes sense. They probably had some sort of patent... I hadn't seen any pretzels even close to DOTS up until now. So their 10 yr protection ran out, soon the aisles will be lined with copy-cats and generic versions.... Cashing out while the getting is good. (they're addictive! I can't buy a big bag) You can now buy them in individual packs, at least you're forced to open another bag to keep hogging down on them.
  16. Cattech

    $170k !?!

    https://youtu.be/YIOhzMtrZ14
  17. I have no love for the old kerosene shovels. My old boss always said that if you don't see oil dripping off a Detroit, you better pour some in it. And the few times I have spent operating something with DD power have been hot & noisy days not getting a whole lot done. However I do have some fond tech school memories building them. I was one of the last classes where everyone had to assemble a -71 series and dyno it. We had crates upon crates of military surplus parts in the back room. It was interesting how machining tolerances were poor, so we had to test fit liners in the blocks until you had a set that fit properly. We had to refurbish our own cylinder heads and build our own injectors, over all, very good teaching tools. My 6V71 was to have 160 hp, we were not allowed to go outside a 10% window of target power. My first try, I came up 20hp short.... beat my head against the wall for a couple days until realizing the fan I was required to install meant I had to use the next size up injection parts. Built another set of injectors and made 167 hp for a passing grade. A fellow tech at work went to the same school a few yrs later than me. Said his class hauled all the DD stuff out, went on a truck to the scrap yard. I guess they kept one or two to look at, but spent no time working on them.
  18. It's a trade in at another store with the company I work for. The price is pretty much what sales has in it. I may be able to haggle some shipping cost out of them, but 17.5 is the price. There's another one on tractor house with far more hours for $29k Customer bought a brand new Fendt of similar size. Makes me wonder... bought low cost tractor and then replaced it with the most expensive brand on the market? Either they won the lottery, or maybe this thing was such a hassle they decided that expensive wasn't so bad?
  19. The manuals were linked here on RPF technical board. I wasn't able to find the old topic, but that doesn't mean someone saved the link. There was the original IH Axial flow operator manual, the Axial Flow Handbook, 300-400 series engine shop manual, 1600 series shop manual... few others too. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't leaving a fellow member hanging. I will have to sit down at the computer and repost the links one of these days.
  20. So, would you drive 6 hrs to look at this if the deal was $17.5k as is where is?
  21. Quick question, I posted links to some IH manuals I uploaded. It only makes sense that people would be trying to view them this time of year. I have been getting some email messages in my spam folder for people being denied access. The emails are suspicious looking so I have been ignoring them. Is anyone trying to download these manuals and getting denied?
  22. Funny observation about combine owners I picked up from my Lexion days. They never seem to consider the bushels ran through their combine as the best wear indicator. It's always the number of years or the hours on the meter. When you add up the crop that went through an old reliable ___model here___ over its life, and compare it to the new machines, they don't look quite so reliable anymore. These new large combines harvest more in a couple hours than an old 14x0 handled in a full day. In a Lexion, depending on crop you will have pretty worn APS caps and rasp bars around 1500 separator hours, seems kinda ridiculous until you check the totals screen and see it has 4 million bushels through it.
  23. I won't go into all the reasons as they're listed above, simple, they work good, parts commonality. But the big thing I want to point out, it only takes one rock a couple seconds to turn a $15,000 combine into a $5000 combine. Do your homework and know what to look for. This goes for any brand or color of machine. That said, too bad you're so far away. Dad's '78 1460 is available, there's only about 2 acres on the rebuilt threshing system. He'll be lucky to get $2000 as the engine went bad.
  24. Sounds like your hyd oil is getting warm enough that the oil's viscosity is dropping off and getting so thin that internal leakage is not allowing the system to build sufficient lift pressure. Hyd systems build heat when high pressure oil squeezes through a narrow area back to low pressure. This can be by design, as in oil going through a relief valve. Or through a place not by design, such as a cylinder seal or internal pump leakage. First thing I would check would be the above reel drive hose either being connected to a head, or connected back together. Otherwise the oil is being dead headed and going through the pressure relief. Even if that reel drive pump belt is removed the hoses have to be connected as there's a 2nd pump down on the hystat motor feeding those lines. If that's hooked up, I have to make sure you are using correct oil. The system requires a hytran type oil, not hydraulic (wood splitter) oil. It may not seem very different when poured out of the bucket, but is like water vs maple syrup at operating temp. Yes, check the hyd cooler for external air flow and even internal oil flow. But I doubt the hyd system could make enough heat to quit working with just an inefficient oil cooler. Finally, we're looking for something mechanically wrong. You could still have something wrong up at the control valve, such as the reel lift spool stuck on, causing a restriction of flow. But the internal leakage of a weak lift pump, worn or damaged hystat pump / motor would top my list of suspects. Educated guess would be the lift pump is just worn out.
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