Mr. Plow

Machine used to make small scale decorative bales. Basically a scaled down old stationary baler.

Dug into it some today, just to see how bad it was. Shaft is bad, probably 1/3 gone. I was able to get the float linkage to move with some hyd power and wood blocks....this is a good sign. Also got the roll pins to move. Bought 2 feet of 1" CRS for a new shaft. I will have to take it all apart this spring. Will use a 3pt bushing for a new frame bushing and will probably make it stick out an extra 3/4" or so for more bearing surface and easier welding. Will get a grease galley like RedToyMan above......may extend it to float bushing too. Work for this spring. For now its loaded up with spray grease to minimize further wear (don't need shaft breaking before end if winter!)

Nice pics and yup, that's exactly where I'm at with it!!! Push design of these lifts 2x the force on the back of those shafts.......not the best design, that's for sure! I was going to do the same thing with the grease zerk and a little 1/8" cross hole to lube it all up. Mine already has broken the plate off the end of the shaft 2x. Once from previous owner (bad fix), and once about 7 years ago on a 15 deg night while moving snow at the neighbors......never happens in front of the garage!!! How bad did yours come apart?

So bushing didn't break loose. Shaft and bushing are just grinding pn each other like no tomorrow.....lots of slop/play. Might be harder to fix if I can't get the rockshaft apart. Oh well....may wait till spring at this point...damage is already done....

It would be easy before it was all put together! Kicker here is that the "float" in the rockshaft is frozen up, so not easy, if not impossible to take apart without destroying stuff. If i can't get in to weld it, I have a couple ideas.....

Here's a new one.....2072 with Haban blade. Broke the welds on the rockshaft bushing. Noticed rockshaft was super sloppy beside my right foot when moving snow Saturday. I'm sure the Haban blade I've been using on it for over 10 years is hard on it...but........what a bad place to try and fix......buried under hyd. Cylinder linkage. You'd have thought they would have used more than 2ea. Baby tack welds on those.... And.....yup, rockshaft is rusted up tight on this one too.....no simple drive out the shaft and weld it up with everything removed. I've got some ideas, but what a PITA this ones gonna be! Oh well.....needed something to fix.....

"Tri-stripe" 284s were released with the tri-stripe 86 series. Can't be many around......

They are slick!

Yeah, clean pipe/burn coating on first pass, then cut. As long as the pipe isn't out of round they are very accurate and only need a quick facing with the grinder to be weld ready. Manual cuts are marked with a wrap around.

At work we have beveling machines ("pipe torch") up to 30" dia. Either the type with the band and crawler, or the interrupted gear type. Watching a good pipe fitter/welder use one, then throw the ends in a line up clamp and go after it is an impressive sight. 2 welders working together on over 12"...... Sure our handy for cutting pipe......

PAR 36 LEDs are available for the headlights......what i run. Get them online from SuperbrightLEDs.

Not saying its special by any means (and I'm no crack shot by any means), but the Skinner sights on that little lever make it a lot easier to pull off!!!!!! That's as good an indorsement as anything!

Got one once with a 5.5" MKIII......ONCE......never could do that again!!!!????

I lay my trap thrower flat (aimed over ground toward hill) and shoot 1 out of 3 clay pigeons in the air with my Henry 22LR and Skinner sights......crazy to hear the birds "chink" in the air as they break. Can't do it with any other gun reliably.... Shoulder gun, call for bird, pul trigger when you see orange in the ring!

I have good luck with them, but you have to force yourself to only focus on the front post and let your eye "naturally" do the centering of the rear sight. Its much easier when your eyes get worse and its almost impossible to focus on both sights......that's when peeps/aperature sights really shine. My eyes aren't horrible, but they aren't what they used to be......and I like the peeps more and more.

Skinner makes great stuff. I have a set on my Henry 22LR......excellent quality and sight picture. Peep/aperature sights are technically optical sights.....they really work well for me.....focus on front post and all is well. The Tech Sights on my new Ruger American are a blast as well.

What's the gpm on a 284 hyd system? Can't be much. Do you have a PN on the hand pump?, see what it flow rated for.

Got it, but many of those small hand pumps have the priority valve built in.

You would have to pipe it that way for the internal priority valve in the hand pump to have priority over the other functions. Same as the hyd diagram for a SGT Cub.

Mags use a magneto ignition, the KT used a coil. Opposite modes of operation. KT needs 12v to coil to run and 0 volts to shut off. Mag needs nothing hooked to engine to run, but needs magneto grounded out to stop. NEVER put 12v to the kill wire on a Mag engine. Tractor is still partially wired for the KT, hence the hour meter issue and the kill button. You cam wire on a relay to use the standard 782 wiring on the mag. Or change to a 1810/11/12 ignition switch and do some minor rewiring to fix. I use the relay method and can post a wiring diagram if you'd like.

Sharp!

Looks like it...

I have had a 26" barrel Red Label in 12 ga for 25+ years.....heavy, but super nice gun. Very early SS frame, with short screw in tubes. Now BB, you can keep those Baretta autos.....did I ever mention how much I like my Benelli Montefeltro????????

Very nice.....IH meets FoMoCo.....both my favorites!!!!