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Mr. Plow

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Everything posted by Mr. Plow

  1. Those 24 series loaders just look Sooooo HUGE. How is the visibility with all of that steel up high like that?
  2. 2350/2450 IH Mount-O-Matic. Plenty of lift capacity for all of those tasks. Mount-O matic are all quick attach. Yes rear remotes.
  3. John Deere is a marketing and advertising God!!! They know how to make people pay for green paint......and always have. Brand association alone is huge......every small town kid has a JD hat......
  4. Jumper a wire from middle pin on reg straight to battery positive terminal......cuts out the middle man (switch/harness/wiring/etc.)....then check for charge voltage. Don't leave it like this, but test it like this....
  5. ......but my fat a$$ can't jump either......so my stuff stays stock. 4x4 F150 is just right from the factory for what I use it for.
  6. Only good snake is the one at the end of the barrel of a 12 gauge....... Hate the evil devil serpents........and they are all cobras to me!!!!!
  7. Check for 28-29 volts AC across the 2 outside terminals of the rectifier at WOT. Then check for 14- 14.5 volts DC center rectifier pin to ground. 28-29 VAC indicates good stator performance. 14-14.5 VDC indicates correct charging. If you get good stator and bad charging, replace voltage regulator. Fairly common failure.
  8. GT54 is NOT drive over....it also takes a jack on std GTs pre 1864. The Haban 60 shown is a drive over, but it works best with the gauge wheels off to drive over it. I use a jack under the front sub frame and lift it WAY UP then slide it under.......its a brute of a deck. Seems like the drive over concept is also best for FWA tractors......getting it started over the deck on anything but dirt/grass is an exercise in sliding. Kinda like seating or "popping loose" a 2250 IH loader on concrete.......it works better with a lip or ledge to push against
  9. Thanks, got out the Haban 60" and mowed the lawn with it this evening. Nice to have full float back! Man is that deck a PITA to install....tank, but cumbersome. They mow ok, but I think the GT54 does a better job overall.
  10. I won!! Got her back together with grease zerks everywhere!
  11. Tractor has a lot, but engine it it only had about 700. Haban blade on the front is what does it, forces all the wear on the back of the bushing/shaft. Push to lift is a dumb design, but, oh well........ Hope to get some welding in on it tomorrow evening.
  12. Used a 1-3/8" "large" size Unibit with the 1-3/8" step removed to create a poor man's stepped 1" × 1-1/8" x 1-1/4" reamer. Also had to make a 1/2 extension using an old drill chuck (Unibit was 1/2" with flats) to clear foot rest bracket. Worked better than I expected!
  13. Winning! Drilled wallowed out frame bushing for new steel sleeve. Cleaned up bracket bores, cut off and drilled worn pins, drilled rockshaft for zerk, cut out old weld on right side "push" bracket, then mocked it all up. If all goes well it will get welded tomorrow.
  14. But they make a huge difference in how smooth the driveline runs!
  15. It isn't, but it's going to be. It's all wallowed out, so it will get cut out and replaced (new one welded back in). That's a project for another day, by the time I got this all apart (and fixed the rear splined drive coupler that was almost gone) I'm not up for starting phase 2. MTD fixed the weak lift tugs of the xx8/9 and Quiet Lines with that heavy tube.....but man does it kill serviceability when the float linkage seizes up! Old/new coupler...only $155 worth of wear!
  16. Well, that didn't go well.....had to cut it out.....
  17. Nice work!!!! Well done, and a big job to tackle!!!!
  18. I've seen rat rods that looked a lot worse than the one with a Farmall hood!!!
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