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Posts posted by rustred

  1. 3 hours ago, Cully4x4 said:

    I am going to check all the linkages, to see if they are working okay. There is some slop in the diesel throttle side.

    the thing is you will hear the click when the mechanism locks in. plus the starter  will have a slow crank if its in diesel mode is another way to tell. plus tell us if you have experience with these gas starts as we dont know what u know. i been around them for over forty years. and yes the linkage holes get worn but it still should change over. plus there is adjustment in the manual.  the last photo has the Return Spring i am talking about. for some reason pictures are sideways but you have some info.






  2. 3 hours ago, Cully4x4 said:

    I have bled the fuel lines, then cranked the engine without the ignition being on, to make sure that all air is pushed up to the injector housing vent hole, then closed the vent when only fuel is squirting out. 

    I suspect the dozer has been sitting quite a long time. The fellow I bought it from had bought it from a farmer, who probably had let it set for a long time (for some reason unknown). The gas side runs well. When I switch it to diesel, sometimes it will pop smoke (dark but not apparently “blue”), but then it dies. I will be adding some diesel additive lubrication to the fuel, to see if that helps.

    when bleeding ,... you need it running on gas then bleed injectors last after doing the filters. also there is a small spring in the switch over mechanism that sometimes breaks and will not hold it into position. i have had the same thing happen with that spring. its on the right side.  

  3. first of all is there fuel at the injectors when you loosen the lines and switch to diesel? lots of times the rack in the pump will stick when these engines sit for long periods. that means no fuel getting to injectors. you need to verify this first. and what is the story on this unit.? even if you run it on gas and open the throttle it should smoke blue from the diesel. does it do that?

  4. On 12/3/2021 at 7:48 PM, Mark (EC,IN) said:

    A live PTO would be like is on some MF tractors,  you have to stop the tractor to engage the PTO, but then the tractor's forward motion can be stopped and the PTO will continue to run...MF uses a two stage clutch to accomplish this.


    An Independent PTO has it's own clutch ........Like an IH 400 or 560 .....you don't have to stop the forward motion of the tractor to engage the PTO ...... just engage the PTO clutch and the PTO will start.

    yes, and it came out on the super W6 T.A. tractor in 1954. the same setup continued  right through  all series to the 560, 660 with the same basic design.

  5. On 12/2/2021 at 6:38 AM, stronger800 said:

    Snowshoe, can you find us a pic of this “other” style valve you mentioned?  I do remember my father mentioning two types, years ago, (like 25), but I don’t think I’ve ever seen one.   

    yes that is the old style valve stem. only see them on old equipment i can get a pic of both as i keep them on hand as i try to keep up with replacing those things at the sight of leakage.

  6. 12 hours ago, Diesel Doctor said:

    Many of those older ones used a mechanical elastacast ring.

    Not the one that gives problems in the 56 series, etc. with the black coffee grounds.

    I would first remove the top cover and see if the metering valve is stuck and if so to free it up.

    If the metering valve is free and you have fuel to the pump, then it needs to come off.

    If you can get it running again, then use the Stanadyne Fuel Conditioner to make sure this don't happen again.

    The new low sulfur fuel is causing this!

    No need to pull a glow plug.

    Pull the side cover off the pump and rotate engine until the two lines line up in the pump and the timing mark is on on the crankshaft.

    This will insure you put the pump back on in the correct phase as it came off.

    mine kept on plugging up with some kind of brown stuff. myself i use a hand crank to turn the engine over.

  7. somebody's crazy idea. it has that deal off the head going into the air cleaner from factory. that set does nothing other than get some oil fumes back into the intake air. be doing more harm than good. humm why is my plugs fouling now.?

  8. 3 hours ago, 606 diesel said:

    My dad's I-12 also has this device on it not sure if it is an actual governor as the throttle linkage hooks directly to the throttle shaft and it sure runs faster than my uncles f-12. It goes down the road faster too. I think it was more of a marketing hype.

    plus if it a mule with  foot feed i can see it. 

    • Like 1
  9. 3 hours ago, Farmall1066 said:

    The fuel return on the bottom of the tank could possibly be plugged, I just dealt with this on a 706, same issues your 460 has.  

    he said the return line was not plugged... but they never plug its actually the check valve that gets plugged with the pump wear disc that looks like coffee grounds. yes u are right... but he also said that he has fuel at injectors so it can very well be that check valve!! my 660 was doing the same thing then took the check valve  guts out.

  10. 7 minutes ago, Doc Brown said:

    I have an I - 12 ser# IS 2610 that doesn't have a governor.  I have been told that many small industrial tractors were made without them so that doesn't surprise me.  The tractor ran fine when I bought it several years ago.  There is something bolted between the manifold and the carb mounting flange and it has linkage to the throttle lever.  It has the IHC logo onit and in one of my manuals it is shown and called a "handy governor".  Does anyone have any knowledge  of this.  I have never seen or heard of this thing.  Thanks in advavce.  Doc 

    picture please of left side that will tell the story. 

  11. not really a big deal to set it at TDC on compression now, or when installing pump.  remove #1 glow plus or all of them for ease of turning engine. once you have compression blowing out of glow plug hole turn engine slowly till the timing marks on the front pulley line up with the pointer.   the 460 is 3 degree's btc like the 560. once those are lined up remove the pump side window and you can check those pump timing marks to see if it was actually timed correctly. they should be lined up with each other. when installing pump be careful not to  fold or damage the shaft seals. of course this is after you have determined it is the pump at fault.  may times just from sitting they get gummed up. i have a few here like that.  

  12. 46 minutes ago, brian falcone said:

    In The video of it cranking the fan is turning clockwise  when looking at the tractor from the front.

    that is the correct rotation of most engines. rotation is actually viewed as sitting on the machine, or viewed from the rear of the engine. so its called counterclockwise rotation, and it turning correctly. .  i see he has the fan blowing out the rad also. should be a good little unit.

  13. 3 hours ago, EHauck 122 said:

    I’m in central Pennsylvania currently freezing my rear end off without a heated shop lol. Certainly not a place you would expect to find a 660. 

    i kinda saw that in your post so i asked.  lucky you had warm weather to paint it. 660 is my favorite tractor. have 6 total .

  14. a little advise... when not sure of the outcome when starting an engine that has sat for a long time make sure you have your self a piece of plywood to place over the intake pipe. there is no other  way to shut down a run away engine.  and yes the problem is in the pump. engines have destroyed themselves due to this piece of stompin tom plywood not handy.

  15. 8 hours ago, Rawleigh99 said:

    Brrrr!  Better you than me!  The old girl is getting it done though!

    ooh yes i learned to drive the w6 at 6 years old.  think i am the only person around here that farms with old tractors , no cab,  basically use 660's for farming.  i keep them running and they do the job  for me. plus get  the enjoyment of using a different tractor for different jobs.  im getting as old as these tractors.

    • Like 4
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