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About pete23

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  1. I can't tell from your picture if that center disc valve is spring loaded or just tangling but yes, that is what is called the atmospheric valve. Opens to atmosphere to let air into equalize pressure when cooled down. On a closed system, normally what is used when an expansion tank is used, that valve opens and allows coolant to be drawn back into radiator on cool down. If you add a expansion tank and used the correct cap with the extra gasket sealing above the overflow exit you fill radiator to tippety top like all more modern cars, truck, tractors have been using for several years. With no expansion tank, you want to use a spring loaded center disc to avoid that pukeing.
  2. Just for the record, CaseIH approved multi grade oils for use in all Case and IH tractors when they acquired the Steiger line of 4 wheel drive tractors due to Cummins demanding that only multi grade oil be used in their engines. So, the new CDC engine that Case and Cummins made together and used in the Magnums falls under the same recommendation. The reason IH always opposed multi grade oil like 15-40 for severe use in IH engines was their aversion to polymers which are the additive used to improve viscosity. The polymers will (according to others, not me) shear under extended heavy use and thus rendering the viscosity index moot. I, along with others, sat through many meetings from IH reps and Viscosity Oil reps condemning those polymers (plastics). Then, had to eat those words and say, OK , use it. Another thing, if anyone thinks that either 30 wt or 15-40 is going to flow freely through the engine oil filters at cold temperatures, even if the block is warmed with a heater is dreaming. That bypass will be opening and sending a substantial portion of the oil around the filters. IH did some tests some how monitoring the bypass valve opening on the 400 series engines and found that it even opened for an instant at normal startup temps, so they told us at a meeting . On the other hand, all the older engines never had a full flow oil filter so unfiltered, (except for that portion that was filtered and returned to crankcase) oil was what they got always cold , hot or in between.
  3. A battery charger does not care one lick if the system is positive or negative ground. The charger always has to have the positive lead on the charger connected to the positive terminal of the battery and neg to neg. Where the trouble lies is that a lot of people want to connect the positive (red) lead of the charger to the so called hot side of the battery, meaning the side of battery that runs to starter , lights etc. That I have seen too many times. Mind your volts and mind your positive and negative terminals and you will be fine regardless of regulator , cutout or what ever. Disconnecting will protect rest of system in case you do something incorrect when charging and is certainly a good idea to disconnect for long shutdown to protect from fire etc. That being said, I have three tractors and two riding mowers, none are disconnected right now, in a barn.
  4. I believe they were used on IH trucks. Any tank that will bolt on to the precleaner baffle should work. There was a service bulletin with instructions as I remember. I think you got a new radiator cap with the kit, not sure though. That would have been before the 86 series came out and only on the early 66 series that we were having problems before added baffle in radiator. The first one I ran into, the boss had ordered a new radiator because customer said it leaked in lower corner. Well, I just followed orders and replaced the radiator. What was really happening was the early ones also had the short over flow hose along side of radiator so any leakage the fan would grab and pull into lower radiator. IH then made the over flow hose go well down below the front frame. Like I said before, the radiator caps were also a problem as they didn't seal the atmospheric valve. The older that cap got, the worse it was as the valve would hang down so far it no way would seal. The reason IH went to that style radiator cap was way back in the 706 etc, that long upper radiator hose would get soft with use and when you shut off tractor and it cooled off, the hose would suck together because the spring loaded atmospheric valve was stronger than the hose. Didn't hurt anything but apparently people complained so IH came with a new cap. If you go around and check many IH tractors that are working, you will find many that are not under pressure because that valve doesn't move up and seal. I have grabbed many hoses over the years , no pressure in system. Not good. I replaced the caps on a lot of 86 series tractors with spring loaded ones. I am talking about the little disc in center of cap that lets air back into system when cooling down.
  5. That is a water trap and needs to be opened on a regular basis. Most often completely over looked.
  6. I put several of those expansion tanks on the 66 series. Also, the caps need to have the spring loaded atmospheric valve as many of the gravity style caps do not allow radiator to build pressure. They just stay open to atmosphere and contribute to heating and burping problems.
  7. That picture looks like an aftermarket type relief valve . Original IH valve has a different style ball follower. Probably put in to raise pressure but never saw one like that.
  8. pete23

    560 Hydraulics

    Like Snoshoe said, if hitch will stop in between , forget about linkage. Either the screen and orfice is plugged or your single and double adjustments are broken or bent pins. If that orfice has a roll pin and check ball, most likely the ball has peened the tiny orfice nearly closed. New orfice hole size is .031 but often drill them out to about .040 to compensate for wear in valves .
  9. One of our customers had an 806 and was helping his brother haul loads of ear corn from the field. Darkness set in and he got on the Deere, said nope, walked home. Really though, they aren't that bad to figure out and the reason the gears are staggered the way they are is to get all that into that compact little short transmission. You only have so many choices to how to arrange the gears. Same as why a IH Farmall always had that huge jump between fourth and fifth speed. IH stayed with the idea of having the pinion shaft direct to engine flywheel rpm's. They carried that all the way through to the 86 series. If they had put the pinion on the lower shaft they could have adapted several different gear ratios like the little tractors did from A, B C etc. Also, IH stayed with their ball bearings because of engine to drawbar effeciency. Cost them, didn't it. But, they never asked me for my opinion and when I gave it a few times, they said I had a poor attitude.
  10. All three pumps add to the charge flow but if the speed changes when aux valve is in neutral I would say charge flow is getting away someplace. It needs to have a gauge put in charge pressure and servo pressure to get any idea of what is going on.
  11. Or cut off a couple threads from new pipe. Anti seize to reduce friction and retighten when hot a couple times.
  12. We have a restored Skelly station in town. I guess more than one have pulled in to fill up. Or maybe just to take a picture.
  13. You are correct. Not easy to adjust those nuts to gain more tension on friction disc, if disc is still intact. You might want to try hooking a spring toward lower end of lever to help keep lever in raised position. Too high up on lever will make it difficult to work. Farmer fix so to speak.
  14. That is what I do. Of course one needs to know what pistons and head is on the tractor to pick the right advance. Original H with cast iron pistons, 3 3/8th bore used a 40 degree advance, aluminum 3 7/16th bore used 30 degree and a fire crater piston uses 22 degree advance. With all the possible combinations it can be a guessing game. The important thing is to set the timing at wide open throttle because that is where the action takes places so to speak. If the distributor is in good shape the timing at low idle speed will fall back right close to top dead center . If it does not it is not critical to engine life but best if it does. I just measure the dia of the pulley, divide by 360, then multiply that answer by the number of degrees you want to time it to. I happen to remember that on an M Farmall that measurement is 1 7/16 before top dead center for 22 degree advance. . H smaller pulley so less. You are more than likely a lot better at math than I but just threw that out there. Never time by ear for max rpm as an engine will always run faster and more freely when over advanced but take a beating under load. If I didn't know the piston and head situation and was using a dynamometer I would run at full load and advance timing for starters and then retard until I started to lose power and go back advanced just a couple degrees. Too late will heat and too early will detonate.
  15. Fins and scales. If it needs both, then a whole lot of fish would be off the table. If it means fins or scales, I could go along with that reading no problem. No lobster or crab stuff for me. With interpetations over the years, could be either way and then that would give me the go ahead to have a negative feeling about homosexuals, right.
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