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About pete23

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  1. Coolant hose sealant

    Sealant is going to depend on what the hose is going on. If the radiator or what ever has a very smooth surface and no ridge near the end of the pipe, a sealant will make that hose slip right off in some cases. A clean dry hose is the best there. Most tractor applications, I use permatex like Indian Head or back in the day, number two Permatex. Most castings like water pump, thermostat housings are rough and I use permatex on them. Also, lot of castings have the cast molding ridge on them that needs to be leveled off. Now, when you put hoses on air intake parts, you are not going to notice if they leak a little or not. IH had severe problems with this happening when the hose clamp digs down into the hose and then clamp is loose. Their remedy was a hose clamp with the protective inner strip that went right under the screw and slots in clamp. It did a real good job and those clamps very seldom lost their tension. Also, the castings on some of those air intakes had that ridge and needs to be leveled out to get a good seal. More than a few engines got dusted from poor hose clamping and connections.
  2. Ih 6788 2+2

    For the life of me , I cannot figure out where guys think a 37 or 67 have the final drive of a 15 series tractor. All the 2+2 in the 30 and 60 series had a bull gear final drive. No planetary drives at all. The 37 & 67 had the three speed transmission like a 15 and therefore several parts are different even into the range transmission. Another thing is that all 2+2 tractors are 88 series. When the 5x88 series came out, IH still made the smaller 88 series like 3088 to 3688 in the older previous bull gear , TA version. It was only the 50 series that had the tri-six transmission and planetary final drives. The 70 series 2+2 was based on the powertrain of the 50 series tractors.
  3. My unpopular opinion.

    I had a 37 Ford coupe with the 80 hp flat head V8 engine that never saw over 14 mpg but my 41 Chev with the bigger 235 engine got me over 18 from Mn to Georgia. Rattled and clattered it's way down the road. My little Mazda now has just over 200,000 miles and I have kept track of every gallon of gas I put into it. I used to get 38 mpg but now it averages out to right close to 36. But, it is just a little car and I need to do something one of these days. Twenty five years with one vehicle, not too many can say that. My wife needs to be in a wheel chair out of the house and it is a heck of a job getting that into the Mazda. Pickup is 20 years old and pushing 200 K pretty hard but she can't get into that. And so it goes. But, like they say, I still got her. My inlaws had a 59 chev power glide. When I met my wife to be in 54, that car was in Chev garage getting a ring job. When I was in Army, threw a rod. Had crank ground in vehicle. Didn't last so they put in a new short block. In the fall of 57 we came home on leave and I put a set of rings in it. The darn thing never did start worth a darn so hard to count how many batteries were replaced, starter repaired. Then it started burning valves, they had new seats installed in head and it got worse because the seats were not tight in head. They bought a different heat and that pretty well took care of that problem. Power glide broke down and I repaired that.. Mother in law (who was a great lady, none better) said it was a good car. I said that you see it from the driver seat but I see it from under neath the hood or under the car.
  4. 806TA

    I never gave a spragless TA a though either but it could be and they shift wicked. Only installed one. You have a clear neutral in the middle positon with spragless. I think I could determine if it was spragless or not by some test driving but pretty darn hard to say just how I would do it. Most worn out sprags will take ahold some times so some coast tests in midde position should be able to tell if spragless or not.
  5. Hydro 1026 Tell-Lite burning

    I never tried it. It might get very full when shut down so be sure to leave some room inside .

    I would say your problem is in the regulator valve assembly. That is the block where the hose comes out of on left side that feeds power steering. On top of that block is a four bolt cover with heavy spring under cover. Remove two opposite corner bolts and install two longer bolts before taking cover off and also to reinstall cover. Inside there is a screwed in orfice with a screen on. That orfice may have backed out or just be loose. Or, someone may have drilled hole in orfice too large. It was originally .024, later new ones were .031 so very tiny hole and often drilled to about .040 which normally works fine. . If that is ok, look for problem under the piston of regulating valve. Pull piston, may be stuck down. Under piston is a ball and seat , May be something holding ball off seat or seat has unscrewed. On other side , under heavy spring is relief valve. Inspect it for being stuck or broken. Have you had tractor long and it worded ok or new to you. Some one may have worked over the flow divider that is above hose going to steering. Could be feeding all pump output to steering but I seriously doubt that, never know though.
  7. Hydro 1026 Tell-Lite burning

    I should have been more clear about the sending unit and red light. I am on my key board now and not the tablet so it is a little easier to type up answers. The red light only monitors leakage past the foot n inch valve. It does not monitor any other pressures in the transmission. Some tractors may have a separate sending unit to monitor transmission pressure but that is a separate light. When tractor is not running and switch on, the red light for the foot n inch valve should not come on. On a gear drive tractor the sender in monitoring lube pressure and that light should light up with switch on and engine not running. So, if you unhook wire from the sender on the foot n inch valve you can determine if that is the actual sensor that controls the red light that is coming on. Now if you have some other sender monitoring oil pressure I would not know where it would be as it would be an add on of some sort. You indicated red light will go out and back on when depressing foot n inch pedal so that tells me the light is hooked to foot n inch valve. The light should always come on when you depress foot n inch valve because the valve is now dumping pilot oil from relief valves in transmission. There is an orfice in the T at foot n inch valve to build some back pressure to trigger the sender to turn on. So, I would definitely start at the sender and orfice and go from there.
  8. Hydro 1026 Tell-Lite burning

    The tellite is hooked to sender on foot n inch vale. Unhook wire at sender. If light is still on , wire is grounded somewhere. If light goes out, disconnect return line . If fluid is coming out, your foot n inch valve is leaking. If neither shows any problem, most likely bad sender or partially plugged orfice in fitting at. sender. Also, almost forgot, make sure pedal does not contact platform.
  9. Where did the 1456 get its extra HP?

    I just popped over to the Deere board and guess what they were talking about. Connecting rod piston pin bushings. Some made so rod length could be changed. Interesting.
  10. Where did the 1456 get its extra HP?

    Like I said before, I wish I had measured more 361 and 407 piston protrusion BUT, we did so few rebuilds, I guess that was one reason and other reason, no body knew what the heck you were talking about back in them days, me included. Apparently your mechanic was on top of his game. OR LUCKY. My local machinist tried really hard to get specifications from IH many, many years ago about piston to head clearance on the DT 407. It was all to no avail. When the rebuilders associations got their heads together years later they offered all those internal specifications. He could then just punch in what engine he was working on and pull up engineering specs. He printed me a couple copies some years ago and a whole lot of those numbers were never ever in IH service manuals and as far as I know still are not. Should have been in the manuals instead so much useless information. Just imagine how much .010 difference in piston protrusion makes on the squish area and compression ratio. I used to do a lot of kind of crude measuring of combustion chamber volume. I determined that just dropping both valves .050 into head below new specs would drop you over half a point of compression ratio. Often that was enough to make a poor starting tractor into a miserable tractor. Learned my lessons there. I installed a lot of valve seats for a few years but could never do anything about piston protrusion as that was a whole different ball game. Can't turn a head gasket , valve job into a total rebuild. When IH introduced the higher compression piston for the German Neuss engines, boy was that a god send. Worked great. It took a whole lot of irritated customers all over the world to get them to do that though. IH was really poor about listening to what men in the field were telling them . I did find out Deere was probably even worse though when I worked there. You are wrong, they are right.
  11. Where did the 1456 get its extra HP?

    Because you have to remove some material from the rod side of the bore so that shortens the rod that amount. If the pin bushing will allow, the machinist will establish the original center to center distance to specs but if bushing is too thin he can't do it. Usually not a problem on 400 series IH engines but can be on others.
  12. 86 and 88 series digital display.

    Probably. Original was different brand, can't recall the name right off hand, but replacement is a Dickey John. Replacement has several switches in the back under a plastic cover and original had a pull out module that was model specific.
  13. Rear main d358 886

    Just the aluminum retainer. The installing tool IH had featured a couple of washers so you could locate the seal in different spots to get away from the wear groove in crank. No sleeve is used like on the 400 series. Also, I replaced a whole lot of seals on the 400 series and never pulled rear plate unless I was after something else farther in like the seal on end of cam shaft.
  14. Where did the 1456 get its extra HP?

    You mess with the pin bushing to raise the piston height, not lower it. When you recondition the lower end of the rod it lowers piston standout. Also, many engines fall on the low side of the piston standout and cause hard starting, there fore you raise them. Either by machining deck or lengthing the center to center of the connecting rod.
  15. My unpopular opinion.

    IH never gave a dwell spec on a IH distributor. They did not recommend it. Have to ask them why but I have an opinion. I used dwell meters on the IH trucks but of course that was all Delco Remy parts.