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About pete23

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  1. pete23

    IH quick hitch

    mPs Yes, you change the sides to either 2 or 3 cat. the standard measurment pin shoulder to shoulder is 32 7/16 for two and 36 Inch for three cat. t.
  2. pete23


    Indy & tilla are just like the energiser bunny. They just keep beating their drum.
  3. pete23

    856 question on a brake job

    That outer piston o ring is usually a bit big and I just keep hump backing it in going around and around as needed to get it smoothly into groove. Careful of twisting any of the o rings as that is a major cause of o ring premature failure. I always use my o ring pick and go under and around all o rings that go in outside grooves so they lay straight. Of course that does not apply to that outer piston o ring.
  4. pete23

    IH Gas Turbine

    IH gas turbine tractor with hydrostatic drive rear wheels in Smithsonian. Model 340 I think. Never went into production.
  5. pete23

    1486 valve cover torque

    Back in my younger days, about 60 years ago, county mechanic came into the shop and asked if I had a conversion chart for inch pound of torque to foot pounds of torque. Having taken a good amount of crap from different sources about being just a kid and not really knowing much about being a mechanic, I have to admit, I rather sarcastically replied, well, Harvey, 12 inches in a foot. I don't remember his answer but I think he was rather skeptical of my answer. We worked it out ok though and was well.
  6. pete23

    656 hydraulics

    Hitch has separate pump and relief valve. When hitch is not being raised, the flow from the hitch pump joins the flow from main pump through a check valve in the adaptor plate where aux valve are bolted on to rear cover. So, if hitch lifts a heavy load that would tell me the hitch pump is good and you should have at least that flow to aux valves. With no flow are little flow to aux valve outlets all flow much be dumping through main relief valve . If not , then it would have to be escaping in cover or possibly going back through that check valve. I would just change the relief valve and go from there. If that does not change things, pull the plate off rear and take a look. I have seen more than one of the orfice at flow divider turn side ways and run all flow to the power steering from the main pump but then you would still have hitch pump flow to operate aux valve. That pump is of course much smaller gal per min.
  7. pete23

    Main bearing not flush

    Crankshafts have an allowable limit of runout and depending on the position of crank and what bearing is being checked, you can get a false reading. Also, the temperature of the plasti gauge will give you different readings. I have used it enough to find that out, youngster.
  8. pete23

    Main bearing not flush

    Couple things here. Always compare new to old. Make sure oil hole in half that goes in block aligns with hole in block. Some bearing sets have hole in both halves, some only in top half. As far as the protrusion, all bearings need to have "crush" to insure the bearing is tight in the bore. Some engines the crush "protrusion" will show equally in cap and block. Some engines the crush will show in block and others in cap. On your end play, make sure you are exerting considerable force pushing crankshaft either direction, front or rear, so the thrush side of bearing are even. Also, I am not a big fan of plasti gauge. I am old school, before anyone ever heard of that stuff. A paper shim, about half inch wide, and width of bearing, laid in crank journal, or in cap if working from bottom, will give you a much better idea of actual running clearance. A shim of .004 to start and go from there to establish actual clearance. If it has less than .004 it will lock the shaft , more than .004 will turn easy. Do not turn all the way , just back and forth a little bit.
  9. pete23

    Oil pressure relief valve on DT361

    The valve in the pump is a safety valve and it's opening pressure would be higher than the regulating valve in the block. It will only open (90 psi I think is correct) when pump is producing more flow than what can flow through filters before it reaches the regulating valve in the block which controls the pressure to internal engine parts. Don't know about the hole but it would seem that it would have to be in the pressure regulating valve in the block.
  10. pete23

    Clutch for 806

    The finger height is 2.301, but, that is from tip of finger to pressure plate which you have no way of measuring without the clutch tool or equivalent. I just read your replay as I was typing this up and was going to suggest trying new disc with old plate and to see how that matched up. You won't go wrong with using that clutch the way you have it now from what I can see here.
  11. pete23

    Clutch for 806

    The picture of the old clutch installed is the way it should look. Fingers should be parallel to pressure plate and they are. The new clutch fingers are too far down. A new disc normally measures right at very close to .390. The reason they make thicker disc pads is to compensate for the material that is removed when they rebuild a pressure plate. Apparently the new pressure plate you have has never been machined or if it is a rebuilt, very little machining was necessary. You should try the new pressure plate with the old disc to see how the fingers lay. Not saying you should or should not use old disc as not sure but I would definitely not use that thicker disc. Ironically, the usual problem is that you get a rebuilt pressure plate that has been machined too much and the finger stand out too far and there is not full clamping force on the pads so , less clutch life . I have rejected some rebuilt clutch pressure plate for that very reason. Back in the day, we didn't sell rebuilt pressure plate as I rebuilt them myself using what ever new parts were required. Now days, that is not possible and in my later years at the dealer, under new ownership, I had to use rebuilt stuff.
  12. You can argue forward or rear flow but to me the problem with the 50 series was the d@@m poor design of the air box and the way the air flowed across the condenser . Most air went over the top part of the radiator and it got worse as dirt got in. Mean to plug all the holes on bottom Could have spent a little more time and made a nice solid well sealed air box, and made it easier to clean. The high pressure side of the air conditioning always run higher due to the poor air flow over condensor. Some guys even moved condensor right under top screen. Magnums are hard to clean also. As for fan belts, yes, more work, but , compared to Deere it was a cinch.
  13. pete23

    distributor service

    Part number should be stamped right in mounting flange and would be for advance originally installed. Probably cannot see it completely without removing distributor. I have filled in or enlongated the max advance hole to get full advance I wanted and done some bending of the spring ends to obtain a gradual advance as what oftens happens is weak springs and worn weights allow too early advance at low speeds . Do not want it to advanve at low idle speed or at least not more than a couple degrees. But, it has to reach full advance at rated engine speed. Over advancing will make engine sound like it is running easier but we want the advance near correct when under load, not while loafing. Confused, well so am I.
  14. pete23

    Carburetor kits

    One of the biggest problems we had with paper gaskets at the dealership was shrinkage. Those paper or cork gaskets would often get the steam cleaner treatment to loosen them up to size. One example was the heavy cork gaskets used on a H or M up to 450 as they were hard as a carp. I would shoot the steam cleaner on them for a few seconds and then you had to literally stuff them in under the valve covers sometimes. Never needed a sealer as they squished down really good, but they often needed to be retightened again after a few hours of use. I don't have a steam cleaner so smaller gaskets that have shrunk get boiled in water if needed.
  15. pete23

    Carburetor kits

    McDonalds carb has most all parts separate or in kits . I rarely install a kit but rather the parts I need. Lot of kits give you new nozzles etc and lord only knows what those parts are based on. Need to compare parts very close to old ones removed. Usually just gaskets and needle and seat needed but they have a large variety of kits, and separate parts to choose from at reasonable prices.