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pete23

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  1. pete23

    656 Hydralics

    Take the plugs out of both ends as there is a ball and spring in each end. There is a piston between the balls under a screwed in seat and it has o-rings on it. A properly working check valve will not allow you to lower a cylinder unless tractor is running because it takes pressure on the reverse side to open the check valve. What happens with large cylinders like on a loader (or some implements) is that the returning flow from the cylinder exceeds the flow from the pump so then the check valve will close for an instant and reopen again. And , yes , if pump pressure or flow is low it will cause check valve to close and again open also. I would take the check valve right off. Plug the holes on the side where it was attached and then you know it cannot cause you a problem. They are normally very repairable so if you ever need it you can put it back on for some other application. Also, that block is expensive. If you sound like system is sucking air, I would take that third arm plate off the back and check the hose and pipe coming down from the top of rear cover. Loaders often blow that hose off or rupture it and then air is drawn in above the fluid level.
  2. pete23

    656 Hydralics

    That block is a two way check valve meant to hold a implement from leaking down. I would not want a loader hooked through it as it will cause the problem you are having and eventually fail from slamming the balls back and forth. Might work ok on bucket but not boom plus you will not have float on boom which most guys want. Either remove springs and balls or bypass block
  3. Thanks for the explanation. I now recall that service bulletin and I have never seen or used a test harness. Good to know the clutch pedal part of the equasion also as I just figured even the test harness would disengage the speed transmission.
  4. pete23

    Wolves

    I did some checking on rattle snakes in Minn. There is a small population of them in south eastern part of the state. It is illegal to kill a rattler in Minn. I have never seen one (don't live in that part of the state) but I think that would be one law I would not have a problem with breaking. They have designated rescuers to come and save them (the snake that is) if someone discovers one in their area and wants it out of there. OH BOY.
  5. Mike. I have a couple of questions. Did CaseIH ever come with a test harness. I left them in 99 and from what I recall it was Hy-Capacity that brought it out. Of course, memory may have lapsed a bit. Also, when you see these failures from engagement of both clutch packs , have you determined it was from the solenoids not releasing so hydraulic pressure was applied to both clutch packs, or was it that one clutch pack failed to release due to frozen up parts so to speak, or possibly, the test harness energized both clutch solenoids at the same time. Just curious if you could determine what actually happened. I only replaced one sentry up until I left CaseIH and that was after replacing the pressure switches first among other tests . Did replace more pressure switches that cured the problems. I think it took about three upgrades before a reliable pressure switch came along. Also, did the rewiring update on any that came into the shop. And those clutch safety start switches needed to be adjusted properly. I had to install several of the upgraded versions when IH had the field change early on. The quick and dirty check sheet was a pretty good simple help to diagnose problems. Those intermitent problems could be difficult to diagnose. Some would only act up once every few days.
  6. pete23

    1066 Hydro

    I always used the Inching pedal in close quarters and found it to be offer better control. BUT, a jerky inching pedal is usually a broken spring in the foot n inch valve. Another thing with that valve is they fill up with oil on the back side whereas they were filled with kerosene from new or some other very light fluid to act as a dashpot when releasing them. The oil leaks past inside and then the pedal usually return very slow, especially in cold weather. I would just loosen the end plate and let that oil drain out and forget about trying to recharge it with anything. Of course my driving them was usually in an out of the shop while working on them . We all have our own way of doing things for sure. On another note, I also have a red cub cadet and the lever is very smooth to use. We have a Green rider also with foot controls and I alternate between using them depending on how my leg is working. When it is hurting really bad it is really difficult to operate that foot control hydro, especially moving foot to back up.
  7. pete23

    1066 Hydro

    The slamming of the speed ratio lever makes me think the clamped on mechanism might have been jarred loose and is now not pushing and pulling the control spool in and out of valve like it should when you move it side to side. Also make sure the speed control lever is actually moving the linkage going in to transmission. Also, easy to check foot n inch valve. It should move fully to rear where you can feel it bottoming the internal valve and NOT touching the platform when fully back. You can also tell if it is leaking by removing the return line from foot n inch valve. No leakage is acceptable with pedal back. If these checks fail to show up a problem, time to cap the two fittings with STEEL caps. You will have no control except the speed ratio lever when you do that so have room to maneuver tractor.
  8. Beer can trick. OK. Just small strips of tin (aluminum) bent over the edge of front pulley in several equally spaced spots to take up the gap if adapter pulley does not fit tight on front pulley. Can make it one long shim also with cuts to fold it over edge. Bought a car one time that had the beer can trick in the rear axle housing for axle bearing. Dealer ponied up with a new housing. Then they didn't pack the new bearing (tapered roller bearing ) and it ran quite a while until that bearing seized . Brake shoes full of grease that took several cleanings to get those cleaned up. That was before the bearing in new housing failed. I didn't hound the dealer though as I was just very happy he put in a new axle housing.
  9. How can suggesting or telling some one to do something and that person says he won't do it and does not do it, be obstruction ? That is why no charges were recommended from what I read on the reports.
  10. Straight roll pin hold adapter pulley. Also, make sure the pulley fits nice so it doesn't run off center (wobble). I had to use the beer can trick on a couple many years ago to shim them to fit snug on rim of original pulley.
  11. Roosa Master injection pump not worth much. If it was an IH RD, it would be very well worth taking it off and selling to Diesel Repair shop. Even the fuel injection lines are valuable for either make of pump.
  12. I don't know which is more work, taking cab completely off or doing one end at a time by leaving 86 series cab on going for one end at a time. By leaving cab on you don't need that lifting power or room to do it and in the middle of winter, pretty cold working out side to get it off. I always had to remove cabs on the older tractors and that was not fun as we had our lift hook outside. I only took the cab off of two 86 series and that was from a roll over and a building collapsing on tractors. Also, the way we lift 86 series cabs was through open doors on cab with tool going under top frame work of cab.
  13. Quick, easy, test for combustion leak causing your loss of coolant. No looking for bubbles as recirculating coolant may or may not have bubbles in any engine. What you need to do is remove belt from water pump. Fill radiator right to the point it runs out of over flow. With cold engine, start engine and watch that coolant level. If you have a head gasket leaking into coolant, it will rise up immediately. Again, don't be looking for bubbles as they will be way down in the coolant if there are any and the coolant will be pushed out ahead of the bubbles. Reving the engine up and down will build a lot more pressure in cylinder so a smaller leak will be more likely to show up. This test has to take place in less than a minute because normal warming of coolant will cause it to start to rise. No sealer will effectively seal a combustion leak because pressure in cylinder is blowing into coolant.
  14. Going to jump in here. If you plugged off line to power steering hand pump and only read 1000 psi, your oil is escaping in the high pressure circuit right in the MCV, not hand pump or steering cylinder. So, has the power steering relief valve have a good o-ring on it. Does your tractor have a clutch booster. Reason I ask is sometime the elbow fitting feeding the booster is not screwed in far enough to place the relief valve up into MCV and then it will blow or leak past the o-ring on the relief valve. Should read at least 1700 psi. Higher that 2200 psi can cause high pressure to compromise gaskets, o rings etc in MCV, even warping the thin metal plate in MCV. I would say the reason you get lower pressure reading (where ever you are hooking in to get that reading you have not indicated) when everything is hooked up could very well be just some minor leakage in hand pump and or cyl.
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