Jump to content

pete23

Members
  • Content Count

    4,996
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

238 Excellent

3 Followers

About pete23

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

4,748 profile views
  1. I personally would feel uncomfortable sitting in the line of open crappers or in the line up of showers with opposite equipped members. Short arm inspections would get to me also.
  2. Hey, even I know what that key is . It's the start button. Works for me on my keyboard.
  3. Good point on that four pad disc. Back in the early days of the 7 and 806 tractors, they were a bear to shift in or out of gear. Clutch disc was one reason. The direct drive clutch discs in TA were not grooved so they stuck together and would not release plus changes in the shift cams in the range transmission. When in service training in St. Paul in like 64 or 65 they showed us the new disc and how the tips were sprung away about maybe .030. Measured by laying it on a new pressure plate. Bent to spring the tips away from flywheel. So, new discs we got were made that way and any one I had out for any reason I bent them like that. Made a huge difference in clutch release for shifting into gear. Several years later, new discs were no longer sprung so I just sprung them also. Now, we get in a new 886 that you could not get it into gear unless you waited and waited or revved the engine up and down a couple times with clutch pedal depressed. After customer used it a few hours, I split the tractor, sprung the disc and it shifted great. Turned in a warranty claim, told them on claim what I had done and they said, unauthorized modification. No payment, Claim denied. Jump ahead about ten years or so, IH comes out with a service bulletin. They found that springing the tips of the clutch pad away from flywheel helped shift into gears on the lower horsepower , utility type tractors. Must have found some new desk jockies by then as they were excited to inform us of this great discovery. And so it goes. As for the roller bearing in pto, I would use the ball bearing also.
  4. That morning the boss came back into the shop and said, well, Jim, (that's my real name) you are now a Case mechanic. Don't remember what I said but probably not good. In January the boss was down in Florida for a month or so when the franchise had to be signed, so I put my name on there some how for him. The whole deal was a real kick in the pants. Taking crap from Deere guys , working on tractors I was not familiar with. Not too long and boss sold out. New owners were the pits. Deere dealer offered me a job and I took it. Two hardest things in my life. One was joining the Army and other was leaving red line. But, I did find out that the green ones had their share of problems and oh, it cost bucks to repair those babies. Customers were much more faithful to their equipment though and a lot less complaining about the bills.
  5. pete23

    Reman for 5488

    Almost every new 400 series engine seeped or leaked on the right side when they first came out. It is oil collecting on the ledge of block where push rods go down through. I used to put a bead of sealant all along that edge of gasket until IH came with a sealant right on the gasket on that side. Of course, later they changed the gasket a few times and I have no idea what they are using now days. All the head bolts are right around the cylinder and that side is a ways from any head bolt and the gasket just doesn't get the compression the rest of the gasket gets. I installed only three 400 series rebuilt engines from IH. One ran the main bearings out within a few hours. Other one filled crankcase with coolant. The replacement engine for that one didn't have threads in the front cover to frame mount. So, I took front cover off other engine and found the oil pump was in poor shape on replacement engine so put in new oil pump.
  6. Reading through all these answers to park problems and being in gear while in park, holy cow. That is living on the edge. Having the wife hold down the clutch while working on the tractor. If engine dies, hose breaks, link breaks, bracket bends or breaks, you are toast. Those shift mechanisms need repairs bad if you can be in gear at the same time as being in park. The original 86 series tractors had a very stiff park and the ladies had problems getting them out of park. IH came with a different spring and park pawl which mad them much easier to operate and also easier on the wear factor in the linkages. You had to change pawl and not just the spring for proper operation. As for fuel gauges, yes, plenty of problems but that is more of a convenience, not safety issue.
  7. Really kind of hate to get into the tightening of that nut but I am a bear for wear as they say. All of those gears and spacers eventually loosen up over hours of use. When that happens they form their own wear patterns on shaft , spacers and the splines in the gears. So, when you tighten them up you get a wobble in the gear. It is now a fixed wobble as it is tight and cannot find it's old home worn in position. So, when you get it all together you have noise in the speed transmission constant mesh gears. Don't notice it much in the gears that are shifted into selected speeds. Hy Capacity , at one time addressed this problem. Have no idea what they say now days. The recommendation was to tighten it down, back nut off just a little and then lock the nut with a roll pin, or spot weld or what ever way you choose. I would take the nut back off, clean the threads inside and out and use loctite along with the locking washer. I know guys. You tighten them up good and tight and never have noise. And they also supposedly stay tight. Just not my experience no matter what one I tore down, original shaft, shaft with extra washer on other end, heavier spacers or left hand threaded shaft nut. Nut stayed tight or nut loosened up ,, spacers loosened up. Some very little, some much more. Hy Capacity didn't get involved because no one was having noises though after installing their TA's. This spanned a period from originals (fall of '63) that the nut fell off first couple hundred hours up until last 86 series made in early 80's.
  8. I changed several on the 50 and some 30 series as the co. sent us packages for all tractors we sold. Only one never came in to get the changeover done as I guess he felt he didn't need it done. All gratis, no charge to customer.
  9. After further review, looks like a split to get those rear bolts out of that block.
  10. I did not realize the new relay had two small terminals. Not familiar with newest ones.
  11. To replace o rings on leaking shut off and throttle shaft, pull cover. Have to remove the shut off cam with care(don't let it fly and lose it). The throttle shaft on engine side may not have enough room to pull out so then you take the two piece lever apart, unhooking over ride spring, and it will come out without moving pump. Note how shut off cam is installed and make sure it fits snug when putting it back in place.
  12. I won't bet the farm, but I seem to remember that you can remove that bar from under without split. Those bars were bad for leaking so have sealed a few and I am pretty sure I never split. If there is a little plate with two bolts holding it on, take that off to access the bolts holding the bar. If no plate, well, splitting time.
  13. First off , you need current to the small terminal when you turn the switch on. If you have a light there with switch on, I would say your new cab solenoid is not grounded. So, next test is to have switch on and then prod the outer metal case part of cab solenoid. If it lights up that means it is not grounded. If no light, while still having power on small terminal and the one large terminal, then you can say new cab solenoid is defective. Just jump the two large terminals and to make sure heater motor etc run then or maybe you already did that. Working on tractors is not always easy .
  14. Maybe he has it off by now, but , behind that clutch booster mount is another bolt.
×
×
  • Create New...