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About pete23

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  1. While in the Army the wife tried feeding me Dandelion salad when we were fab. That didn't work out. She must have had a poor recipe, but of course when you are broke you don't have a lot of ingredients.
  2. On the going to church part of this conversation. We received a directive in the mail the other day. Two out of three pews blocked. Must wear mask, 6 ft or more distance except from family living together. Don't sit in a pew already occupied with other than family. Don't come if over 65 . Kind of made me wonder who would show up though as a good amount of those who come to church are people over 65.
  3. Possibly a coil marked 12 v R which means it is a 6 volt coil and can be used with a external resisitor on 12 volt system..
  4. Bottom line though is spool has to be pulled out to direct flow to hitch cylinder and when it stays on pressure that means spool is still directing fluid to cylinder. Watch that linkage at end of spool when it is working and again when hitch stays up. You will notice no tension on the link that pulls spool out when you move hitch lever to lower. The little pin cannot contact that ball unless the spool moves back in. Some valves can become pressure locked because return passages have been blocked but I don't see that any way of that happening here. Don't know what else to tell you.
  5. Some of Pete's answers seem to get kicked off the board. Anyway, if hitch goes all the way to the top, not it's normal maximum height, the system will also stay on high pressure. I had a few do that and iroically they were all 706 tractors of early production. Some it only happened once but others I took the draft control valve apart and polished the main spool. It relies strictly on spring tension to return it to neutral and spring is not very strong. Since that spool does not have to hold a load up you can make it move nice and free without hurting anything. The drop poppet holds the load and is controlled by the little ball valve . Can't think of proper name right now but a small check valve relieves the pressure on back side of the main poppet which causes a pressure unbalance so main poppet moves. Anyway, don't need to worry about that, BUT, unscrewing that nut changes the setting of the amount of lever travel to lower hitch which should be 3/8th of an inch. You can tell if the spool is stuck by going in through the third arm plate in the rear. The linkage will be loose, no tension on it that goes into the draft control valve. I always just reached in there and poked around on the end of the rod and would get them to release without taking any thing else apart. Then, if it did it again or more than a few times, I pulled it all apart and polished spool. Another thing, just leave that danged draft control lever way forward at all times unless you insist on using it with a moldboard plow. Just causes grief and confusion.
  6. The brake piston housing is sealed by that o-ring . The shims could possibly have damaged the o-ring upon installation or it is hard from over heating. Never had a problem with those brakes leaking. I can't see why they would get hot from the way it checked out for you now. One more thing though, make darn sure that little orfice in the lubrication elbow or fitting on the end of the brake housing is not plugged. That happened now and then and a brake would get hot. The 515 loctite we used to use worked good and sealed nicely. Have to make a nice bead around the bolt holes and every thing you apply the sealer to has to be dry. I never smear the loctite , leave it in a bead. I always put sealer on those two bolts that go into the rear axle housing compartment. They should have a nylon pellet in the threads but that gets hardened over time.
  7. pete23

    Corona virus

    My wife took that drug for many years to help with her rhumathoid arthritis. I have no idea if it helps avoid the virus but has been used by many for a long time for various reasons.
  8. I don't know if that model has float position or not. All the row crop tractors from 06 series up through the 50 series have float and that is what you use to lower a single action cylinder.
  9. I had just one tractor give me lube pressure with dump valve pulled out. The pressure would drop when you pulled dump valve but then jump back up again but not as high as this tractor. I traced it down to a scored pressure regulator spool and replacement with new spool cured the problem. Running these pressures higher than original causes lots of problems in the TA and MCV. Even when IH jumped the pressure in the 15 series we started having a lot more blown gaskets, o-rings and external leaks. I think those newer gaskets with the with the printed bead had more leaks than the old original gaskets.
  10. Sounds like you are bleeding them correctly and probably should remove those equalizer lines for further testing.
  11. That valve is the sump check valve and is shown with the housing. BUT, it will not keep you from having power steering because it is in the regulated circuit which is the return from the power steering. If that valve was leaking or left out you would have TA, brakes and lube problems, not power steering problems. You are losing oil from the high pressure side and if your ta and brakes work fine, no red light coming on the oil is going around the steering part but still supplying the regulated circuit. The steering relief valve should be staked in place so the screw cannot be turned. I know some guys turn them but factory set pressure is totally sufficient and pressure should be tested to make sure relief valve is good and set properly. They can get junk in them and have low pressure then it would be ok to take apart and clean but then reset to proper pressure as too much causes gaskets and o ring to blow in mcv.
  12. The tube doesn't come out without splitting the tractor and there is a o-ring sealing it in the split. That is the reason people say to put extra fluid in to cover that part of the tube where the o ring is. I"m not a big believer in it my self. If you really want to determine if you have a suction leak you will need to pull the pump and plug the end of the suction tube. Then apply just a few psi of air pressure or a smoke machine to the pump inlet. Listen for air leak or smoke. You can also apply vacuum to pump inlet in tractor with suction tube plugged and see if it leaks down. It is not easy to find suction leaks. Being a mechanic is not always cut and dried or easy or fun.
  13. How are you trying to bleed them. They are one of a kind type system. Open the bleeders and get some rpm on the engine, don't touch the pedals. If no fluid comes you may have to pinch the hose to oil cooler to build a little back pressure. They are a keep full system so just residual pressure in oil cooler return line keeps the reservoir full. No power assist is applied to the master cylinders. That usually takes care of bleeding.
  14. Have to reach in through the pto hole in rear.
  15. Unhook the hose on hitch cylinder that is not supposed to be holding hitch up. If oil comes out of hose, cyl is leaking, if oil lowers in hose, check valve is leaking. Those teledeph valves were never intended to hold a load and that is why there is a check valve. Reason they went to a two way check valve was so you could apply down pressure with hitch and hold it . Early 5 & 460 had single way check valve and if you tried to apply down pressure , tractor jumped like a grass hopper. It is possible your check valve has been opened up and check balls removed as many do that when they are used on other aux valve for easy coupling of hoses to cylinders and to allow float of implement.
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