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About Redwood

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/14/1961

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  • Location
    Monterey CA.
  • Interests
    Work, restoring old things, hiking
    1 - TD-14A
    2 - TD-9A's

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  1. Just sent you a PM with all the gory details
  2. Might have some bits and pieces left over. I will PM you with details. Gene
  3. Saw this on E-bay and thought someone may be interested https://www.ebay.com/itm/IH-International-UD-18-UD18-TD-18-TD18-Engine-Head-Gasket-Set-Assortment-259893/154172774052?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Gene
  4. Fill the fuel tank to the point that you can gravity fill the primary filter then fire up on gas bleed the secondary filter, crack the throttle and bleed the injectors. good to go. You might want to change the fuel filters at this time as who knows what you might have sucked up from the tank. Gene
  5. When you call Associated Tractor ask for Tom - Owner
  6. I have also used Manila file folder paper for the thin gaskets with success. Gene
  7. Attached is something that I downloaded from Red Power a number of years ago. I believe from MB Cat. Hope this helps. Gene
  8. If you are getting fuel coming out of the fuel pump top cover it is most likely the gasket that goes between the auxiliary pump and injection pump. this gasket has to seal the return flow of fuel coming from the injection pump. Be careful when putting in a new gasket as there is nothing to hold it in place so one side must be glued. The shaft seal could be the culprit but it would have to be severely damaged. Gene
  9. Sending unit should be located at the back of the head
  10. PA, Keep in mind that the UD-16 is the 6 cylinder version of the UD/TD-9 engine so they share a lot of common parts. Gene
  11. Appears to be a UD18 stationary engine. Could you please post a photo of the back side of the engine? Gene
  12. Oldiron, It was relatively easy for me to make the swap as I had the complete parts crawler to rob all the necessary parts. Let me know if you need anything else. Gene
  13. Oldiron, I ended up doing the opposite on my TD9 (Installed and older head with smaller injectors on a newer engine) and had to make the following changes: 1) smaller diameter injectors 2) Swap injector lines as the flare fitting is different 3) Swap the injector pump distribution block or at the very least the discharge fittings so that everything matches. PM me as I might be able to help with some of the parts Gene
  14. Redwood good afternoon. Would you have the cover for steering brake access hole under the TD9?td9 brake adjuxting nut.jpg

    1. Redwood


      No, they were missing on my Donner tractor and the steering clutches are completely frozen.  I wanted the drums as they were in better shape than mine, but gave up after 4 hours of work and no hope of getting them out.  Purchased a good set of used drums from a wreaking yard in Stockton CA. 

  15. Good afternoon. This is a picture of my TD9 adjusting bolt which does not allow for a socket or open end wrench. Based on your experience; how would you attack this situation? Both steering clutch brakes are seized on to the clutch not allowing the tracks to move. Along with the engine seized I have decided to solve the brake issue first. My friend that is helping has a D8 Cat that he was able to pull start it 3 years ago. But with the brakes stuck all we do is slide the track. My idea providing parts are available, is to cut the adjusting bolt at the spring with the gas ax.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you John

    td9 brake adjuxting nut.jpg

    1. Redwood


      First question.  Are you planning on removing the fuel tank and pulling the top deck?  This might be a faster and easier option then trying to do it all from underneath.

      If you want to try and do it from underneath the first thing that I would do is jack up the tractor and block it under the tracks to get some more room to work.  Second I would soak everything in PB blaster for a couple of days then I would put some heat on the brake band where the adjusting nut threads in (red hot) and try backing out the nut with a breaker bar.  If you can get it to budge then you should be able to break it free.  If this does not work then your only option is cutting the adjusting nut and spring.  This will allow you to release the brake but not remove it.  the only way to remove the brake band would be to pull the bottom pivot pin, which can be a complain if it is rusted in.  I would also suggest pulling out the bolt that locks in the pivot pin (you can see it sticking down in your photo) along with the threaded pipe plug and start soaking it with PB blaster as well.

      Hope this helps.

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