Redwood

George, Attached is the brake break down for the Carco E winch that I promised. After looking at the manual I believe the tab that you were asking about is to allow the cable to spool off the drum from the bottom or top depending on where item #20 is mounted. Let me know if you need more information. Gene

George, Lucky for you. I bought one sight unseen out of Oregon but apparently someone thought it was a good idea to drain out the oil then leave it outside for a few years. every bearing was frozen/rusted, seals were shot and some of the gears were pitted. I ended up rebuilding the complete unit. Gene

George, Below is a link to a carco manual for sale on Ebay if you are interested https://www.ebay.com/itm/1951-CARCO-MODEL-E-WINCH-FOR-INTERNATIONAL-TD-9-SERVICE-PARTS-MANUAL/123536226884?hash=item1cc3553a44:g:PEIAAOSwviFbvTKF:rk:10:pf:0

I will download a parts breakdown later but I think you are correct.

George, I have the breakdown as I completely rebuilt my winch last year but not where I can put my hands on it until after Christmas. As you know the threaded end in your photo is the anchor and adjustment for the brake band. the square block that you show was missing from my winch so I just fabricated a heavy duty flat washer to cover the square hole. Gene

George, Several of the engines that I have taken apart had broken top compression rings, but I always attributed it to someone using either to start the engine never thought of excessive side play being the culprit. I purchased a new set of rings from Hastings and the only multi piece oil control ring (3 pieces) was the 4th ring (above the piston pin) I have never seen a two piece compression ring. Gene

Trucker, Just finished rebuilding an engine for my TD-9 earlier this year and all of the pistons were aluminum. Looked exactly like the piston in your photo. It took three engines to make one good one. One piston was IH and the balance were aftermarket. I am unsure when IH switched from steel to aluminum. Redwood

Kracked, I made a set of injector pump tools for the single plunger pumps (I believe they are the same for the twins) if you would like to borrow them. Just cover the shipping back and forth. Gene

Try Tractorparts.com or FP Smith

Vic, All of the starting valves that I have seen use a spring retainer and keepers to connect the valve stem to the spring similar to your intake and exhaust valves just smaller. I have never seen a cotter key used to retain the spring. The cap should just sit on top of the valve stem. As crawler nut said working it up and down should loosen it up. a photo may allow a quicker diagnosis.

With regards to your water pump the easiest thing to do is take it apart and rebuild it yourself. Bearings, seals and packing are available from aftermarket sources. If you need a complete water pump you can try FB Smith in California or look for a good used one. There is more information in the construction site as the UD and TD engines are identical except for injector governor and oil pump pickup. Keep in mind that some parts are interchangeable between the 14 and 18 engines as they have the same bore and stroke. Good luck.

Martin, I should be able to put my hands on all the valve train parts around Oct 20th. Let me know if you need anything else as I have lots of old engine parts? I will send you a PM once everything is ready to ship. PayPal works for me. Gene

I have a bunch of valves, springs and assorted valve-train parts. I am not sure of their condition (came out of a cracked head). but you are welcome to them for the cost of shipping & handling. However, I will not have access to them for a few weeks. Where are you located? Redwood

Attached is a link to some 500 parts if anyone is interested https://www.ebay.com/itm/INTERNATIONAL-MOD-500-CRAWLER-LOADER-MANUAL-PARTS-LOT/173535571061?hash=item286786ac75:g:ux8AAOSwCf9bm9Nh Redwood

Looked at them but never ordered, so I cannot comment on quality or fit