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About JamesW

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  • Birthday 01/01/1975

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    North Canterbury, New Zealand

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  1. Yeah, that keeps coming up on google searches
  2. Can anyone help me identify this Clark Forklift? It is missing the tags, and I can't find the serial number supposedly stamped on the frame (somewhere). Bonus points if you can point me to where on the frame. I would like to determine it's weight and ratings Google searches suggest this is a Utilitruc but I can't confirm. Powered by a Continental F6209
  3. I would suspect it is a spammer.... zero posts but publicly listed an email address. Send something to that email and you will get spammed
  4. They do run rich by design, black smoke etc... The question is what do you mean by rich? Does it start and run ok?
  5. JamesW

    Corona virus

    You know 80,000 flu deaths a year is only 219 per day and that doesn't overload the hospitals the same as COVID-19 has
  6. Looks better at this angle... still not in my skillset though
  7. JamesW

    Corona virus

    With a population larger than Italy by a factor of 5.7, the US is lagging behind in testing... I felt that should be set straight.... But yes, ramping up
  8. I am at the limit of my ideas for now... it could be a weak magnet that the impulse masks...so the question is how to verify? Swap to a known good mag?
  9. That all seems to check out then.... I wonder if the mag info has anyway to check and verify the impulse operation as it does run until the impulse cuts out at higher RPM? See item 8. A broken Snubber ring will advance the timing of the impulse.
  10. PP 3&4 is the position to pull pistons 3 & 4 out... and you really need it on the mark or the darn things don't have clearance to come out pass the crank and block. You need the DC timing marks. When you wind over slowly to verify the impulse it should occur on the relevant DC mark
  11. Your mag serial number has no letters after it, so I assume, but have not reference to check, that it is a 'normal' F6 mag My TD-18 manual makes no reference to retarding while timing.... My UD-18 manual does say retard. I have been caught by this before. Cost days of tinkering for our UD-18A until we caught it. A different mag on a UD-18? I don't know. So I wonder if you should NOT be retarding when timing? Is it still retarded when you wind over slowly to verify? I think during verifying it should be 'normal'. Not retarded. The fact that it runs verifys mag and fuel etc. It's just down to timing, or maybe the impluse operation is throwing timing off?
  12. Easy break would be more accurate... start with other 'harder' methods before you make it harder with an easy out
  13. In these cases you have done all the right things.... but yet something has been missed. Either something you checked as ok, is not ok... or there is a bad assumption somewhere. I am thinking timing. Can you describe your timing procedure to us (with detail). For example I have found slightly different procedures for a TD-18 as for a UD-18. Set mag advanced vs retarded for timing. Below is for the H4 mag, but gives you some idea of differences. Note the different Angles... you may have a not from factory mag? What is a serial number of the mag? Have you not just checked the marks etc, but also wound over extremely slowly and confirmed the impulse does occur on the mark?
  14. 4WD drive means front and rear drive shafts are locked together, with front and rear diffs Don't use 4WD on road or on firm surfaces as when cornering for example either the front or rear drive train will have to slip, scuff tyres etc to corner. Dangerious at speed of course With 4WD lifting a wheel off the ground with an open diff will stop drive on that axle, say the rear, but other, front will still drive. AWD (All wheel drive) means there is a center diff. Front Diff. Rear diff. The center diff is between front and rear drive shafts front and rear axle can differ. AWD is what you can use on road on firm surfaces, but any one wheel off the ground and you will loose all drive (for open diffs). Limited slip etc try to address this issue. You can also help by applying a little brake. This puts load onto a spinning wheel, and applys some torque via the diff to the wheel that still has traction. This is an old trick if you get stuck on a tractor with one wheel spinning. Apply some brake to the spinning wheel. The advantage with a tractor you can do just one wheel.
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