Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

63 Excellent

About Mighty1206

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

1,581 profile views
  1. Make sure you have the right gasket between the TA housing and rearend. If you have the wrong one in there the diff won't get proper lubrication.
  2. I think it has something to do with the bearing diameter
  3. My book doesn't show a 1680 but the 1480 with the MW pump says 27
  4. Number 40 in the attached picture is 2 separate shafts on a hydro. So yes that needed to get changed. I used the rear end of the 3588 and swapped alot of parts to make it how I wanted it. There's more to it then just swapping the speed housing. Let me know if this answers all your questions.
  5. In the attached picture number 4 on a 3588 is larger then a 186 and uses larger bearings. Number 36 and 37 are timken bearing on a gear drive tractor but those would be a ball bearing on a hydro do to those differences number 1 needs to get changed. Number 12 has a seal on the hydro but not on a gear drive. I used the ring and pinion from the 3588 but I used the diff carrier from the 186. Hydros send less oil to the differential and the diff carrier is sealed up more then a gear drive.
  6. I didn't take any worth while pictures during this project. Only had a couple hours here and there to work on it, so never thought of taking pictures. Only other picture I can find of it is when I parked it in the shed for winter.
  7. Finished it a couple months ago. Haven't put it to use yet, for what it's going to get used for it'll do great. I thought about doing this for a few years, did alot of research before committing to it. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. No problem at all, I got kinda busy trying to reply to comments and messages after I posted it on Facebook. I didn't think there was going to be that many people that liked it. I'm glad they do though
  8. Here's the complete post I put on the IH group on Facebook.... Every once in awhile the topic of a hydro 2+2 comes up. Here's a picture of the one I put together. I used a 186 that was mechanically good but ugly and a pretty nice 3588. I wanted to keep the pfc hydraulics and the rearend of the 35. The range transmission gears are different along with the PTO drive line, differential carrier and bearing supports. Hydro's only send 3gpm of oil to the diff so they have seals where a gear drive doesn't. I changed the mcv pump from 12 gpm to 17. Drilled the orfice for steering to send 8 gpm to the
  9. I have a cousin that has the duetz engine version of that tractor. He loves it when it works, but he has lots of electrical/computer issues with it.
  10. Worked on a diesel 3616 years ago, in pulled the engine or the top of the frame. If I remember correctly I removed the hyd valves that are above the engine. Then was fairly easy after that
  11. It never hurts to ask, you never know what you may find. There are many helpful people on this forum with the exception of a few
  12. Set the chopper for open center hyd and turn the flow control on the tractor down as far as you can and have the controls work good. Normally you only need 2 to 3 gpm to make the chopper work right.
  13. You need to do more then knock the axle plug out. There's a hole that needs to get drilled also.
  14. Weighting them down and turning the pump up is really how they got a bad name. The 30 and 60 series weren't meant to be weighted down like that to begin with. When used like they were meant people usually got along good with them. Tractordata isn't correct on the serial numbers on the 60 series. For fun look at how many of each model built, then look at the serial numbers and do the math they are off a significant amount. It would be hard for it to be 8119 since they started at 8801 one I worked on was serial number 9119, she's a late one
  • Create New...