c1456

Members
  • Content Count

    1,069
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

1 Follower

About c1456

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/25/1975

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Tupelo, MS
  • Interests
    International tractors: 856, 706, 450lp, Super Mlp, 140
    John Deere: G

Recent Profile Visitors

539 profile views
  1. c1456

    856 question on a brake job

    Got the big o'ring in the housing tonight. I'm gonna start back together with all this over the weekend. One more question.....Do you guys put the brake piston back in the housing before or after you put the housing back on the tractor? I'm thinking that by installing the piston in the housing AFTER the housing is back in place on the tractor it will let you have a chance to make sure nothing funny happened with the pinion shaft seal. Sure appreciate the info so far. The following post has also been really helpful as well
  2. c1456

    856 question on a brake job

    Kit came in today with the new orings and seal for the brake piston and housing. I've read this somewhere before but seems like the oring that goes around the outer edge of the brake piston housing to seal off the outer edge of the piston is a touch too big. I'm assuming just oil it up good or use some grease and put it in the groove where it goes and work the piston on in the housing??!
  3. c1456

    400 and 450 differences

    The engines will swap, but I believe cubic inch wise, the 400 was still the 264 cubic inch engine and the 450 is a 281. I think you will probably find that most 400's, due to overhauls over the years, probably have the upgrade kits which made them into 281 engines.
  4. c1456

    856 question on a brake job

    I will double check that CDN 400. I actually had the pedal loose from the brake valve control rod to make sure that the spool was fully returning to it's stop one of the times I opened the bleeder. At that point I was still getting a small amount of flow from the bleeder valve. I could pull out on the spool with my hand and the flow would shoot up closer to the bottom of the platform and when I released it and pushed back on it to make sure it was bottomed out the flow reduced to a lesser amount. Got parts ordered just waiting on them to come in now. In the meantime I'm gonna get a seal driver lined up to put that pinion shaft seal back in the brake piston housing. Sure don't want to shade tree that installation.
  5. c1456

    856 question on a brake job

    I've got a shop manual, seems like it's got a good section on setting the brake pedals. It's an I and T manual but seems like it's pretty good on most stuff.
  6. c1456

    856 question on a brake job

    I already have the floor plate off our parts 856. Think I'm just gonna get the brake valve off that tractor and have it rebuilt and ready to stick on mine soon as I can get it off. I even unhooked the brake pedal to make sure the spool was retracted all the was back in. I'm guessing the reason it didn't keep it bound up before is because with those broken return springs, the piston couldn't really make contact with anything. Oh well, time we get finished with it this time around I think we will have covered everything. How complicated is it putting new orings in the brake valve?
  7. c1456

    856 question on a brake job

    Well, replaced the brake discs today, reset the adjusters. Put it back together and right brake worked great....except it would not completely release. Tractor would still move but you could tell that side was dragging. I loosened the bleeder valve without applying any pressure to the pedal. There was a steady flow coming out, but not near as much as when you applied pressure to the pedal. I did check to make sure that the brake valve was returning to neutral position and it did seem like it was. I pulled the pin out of the brake pedal and tried to push back in on the rod coming out of the brake valve and it was bottomed out. So, pulled it back apart, this time I went ahead and took the brake piston and housing off the tractor and kept all the shims in place. Ordered a kit tonight, which I should have done as suggested above to start with. Anyway, will install the new orings and seal and new piston and reassemble and go from there. Just a note, when I first took just the brake drum off, what I found was broken springs, the outer pad was worn, but the inner pad didn't have much wear on it. However, on the inner pad, the rings that are spot welded on each side of the disc had come loose. Before taking this apart, if you pushed on down on the pedal, it would try to grab, but it wouldn't hardly stop it just by letting it roll down a slight grade. Also, at this point, nothing would really come out of the bleeder valve when opened unless you applied the brake, maybe just a little dribble.
  8. c1456

    856 question on a brake job

    Right brake on my 856 seems to be in need of servicing. I bled it first to make sure that was not the problem as it has not been used much over the last few years prior to us getting it. Everything seems ok with hydraulic flow. You can tell it's activating but you really have to push the pedal on down. You can also tell they are making contact but just not enuff to lock up the wheel. No leaks anywhere so I don't suspect any oring problems at this time. So I'm figuring brake discs are worn down or maybe adjuster screw tabs are broken off, so I'm gonna take the drum off and check everything out this afternoon. Left brake works just like it is supposed to. Tractor is a fender tractor. We did this on one we had years ago that had a 2 post canopy on it and we had to loosen the rop mounts and suspend it and get it out of the way. On a fender only tractor, am I gonna have to loosen the fender from the operators platform and loosen mount around the axle housing and slide it out of the way??? Looks like it maybe enuff room to clear but be nice to know before hand. TIA
  9. c1456

    Alabama & Mississippi Cotton

    You were very close to our place, actually about 5 miles. Just about every time we have to run into town we come in thru east Tupelo there where the Elvis place is.
  10. c1456

    Toy vendor at the redpower show in Alabama

    Thanks redturbo, I got the message as we speak.
  11. c1456

    Alabama

    We were there on Friday. Really enjoyed the vendors for the parts and the toys and the real tractors as well. Everyone was very nice. Last one we got to attend was in the Nashville area back in 07 so it was nice to have one close enuff to be in reach for us.
  12. There was a toy vendor there at redpower this past week in Montgomery down on one end of the coliseum. They were from Wisconsin and we bought some things from them but failed to get a card. He probably had two tables full of out of the box IH toy tractors for sale along with a large selection of stuff still in the box. He was also customizing some while there at the show. Seems like there was a cub cadet display next to him as well. Need a little help finding out who that was and if they may have a website. My 13 year old would like to do a little more business with them.
  13. The rubber on the damper/harmonic balancer.....whatever the correct term for it, has failed. After doing some research I see new ones are NLA. Used ones seem to be available, but kinda hate to take a chance on a used part that could be old as mine that has turned loose. I've read some on the places that offer a rebuild option, particularly one place called Dale's Manufacturing out in Oregon. Just curious as to what everyone's take on going with rebuilt vs used would be on this scenario.