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c1456

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About c1456

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/25/1975

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  • Location
    Tupelo, MS
  • Interests
    International tractors: 856, 706, 450lp, Super Mlp, 140
    John Deere: G

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  1. Actually the steering works fine at all times, whether in the field or going down the road. The issue is that when driving it down the road in Hi 4th, I have to keep turning the wheel to the left to keep the tractor straight in the road. Front end alignment is fine. It just goes to the right unless you keep steading turning the wheel to the left. In the field, I never notice it. I've been around a few others that do this as well. Is this a problem with the steering hand valve???
  2. c1456

    CAB FOR 966

    To answer your question on difficulty to install, as long as you have the equipment to lift it up high enough....shouldn't be much trouble to install it.
  3. c1456

    CAB FOR 966

    My 1566 has year round cab with air. We keep the doors and windows tight with 1/2 inch weatherstripping from the hardware store. Cab interior kit from fehr keeps the sound level tolerable. The condenser on the back of the cab on mine was done away with years ago it’s still ther just not hooked up My uncle got an ac condenser and oil cooler off 86 series and put it all in front of the radiator Works good and the same could be done to yours Since it’s an add on cab so to say it can make things a little more hectic to work on We just got done rebuilding the clutch booster and had to take the cab mount off that front corner to get to all that but it wasn’t too bad of a job
  4. After studying the parts diagram a little more looks like I need to order one of the number 7's listed above and the washer that is number 15. Messick's parts list on these has actual pics of some of those parts. I've already got all of my orings and all the other snap rings are good in my booster.
  5. Got it apart this afternoon and that snap ring that goes on the end of part number 14 is gone and the washer was gone. Anyone know if those snap rings are a special size that needs to be ordered thru case IH or if that is something that might be in a snap ring kit?
  6. I pulled a booster kit off a junk 1066 we bought back in the spring for parts and we are going to put it over on our 856. As I was taking it off, I noticed that the connector (number 14 in the parts diagram) was not attached to the booster in anyway. It doesn't appear that its broken off in anyway. I'm assuming that with the rod going back to the clutch pedal adjusted correctly that it would not require anything to hold it in but just wanted to make sure. I did notice that the connector in the front side of the booster (number 4 in the diagram) apparently is attached and that as I dissemble the booster to put new orings in it, that it will be obvious as to how that it set up. I'm just trying to make sure I've got my head wrapped around this right before we tear into it.
  7. Some may have had a ruff life out of the gate, but not all. There were lots of farms here in the area that were 500 to 2000 acre family farms. On those operations mostly family members were operating and they were taken care of. Went out at lunch and made a few pics and got a little better shot of the location as of today. One of those 4166's maybe hard to find but it's in that thicket of bushes.
  8. Cabs around here not were not very prominent until the 86 series. And even then still a good many rops 86's here back in the day.
  9. Neat thing about this picture is I'm actually sitting next street over from where this was as I'm working in Aberdeen, MS today where this photo was taken. Unfortunately this is what that lot looks like now. This whole area was/is a very large row crop area and back in the day it was a hot bed for international equipment and dealers. Don't know if anyone has noticed, and of course this is a southern thing, but see the goodyear rice and canes on the 1468??? There are actually 2 of those 4166's sitting not 3 miles from this spot on one particular farm and it has been long time since either have been used, growing up in the bushes in other words. Very likely that the 4166 in this pic is one of those tractors.
  10. c1456

    450d brakes

    I'm not 100 percent sure but probably gonna have to take the brake housing off and take a look and see what's going on. You could do that and take the brake hardware off the tractor and see if rear wheel will move. Take the bolts out of the brake housing and then take the rod loose from the brake pedal and it all should come off fairly easy. Pick up an I and T shop manual and that will give you more detail about some of all this. I've got a 450LP and had to do some brake work. Once you get a look at it and get some more info here and from a good manual I think you will see it's not very complicated set up. Welcome aboard. Folks here always love pictures by the way.
  11. Thanks for posting. I found my crew in that first video in 2 different places. Wouldn't mind at all being back there right now.
  12. Just wanted to do a quick followup. Seems like over the years lots of questions get posted and lots of information provided and sometime we never see the outcome. I'm trying not to be that person. Got the new seal kit in the brake piston housing and new piston installed. All went back together very well. Right brake now operates smooth and no leaks anywhere. We did change the hydraulic fluid before cranking it back up. Now the plugs under the rear end were a little challenge to get out but nothing the blue wrench didn't help. Thanks again for all the information.
  13. Got the big o'ring in the housing tonight. I'm gonna start back together with all this over the weekend. One more question.....Do you guys put the brake piston back in the housing before or after you put the housing back on the tractor? I'm thinking that by installing the piston in the housing AFTER the housing is back in place on the tractor it will let you have a chance to make sure nothing funny happened with the pinion shaft seal. Sure appreciate the info so far. The following post has also been really helpful as well
  14. Kit came in today with the new orings and seal for the brake piston and housing. I've read this somewhere before but seems like the oring that goes around the outer edge of the brake piston housing to seal off the outer edge of the piston is a touch too big. I'm assuming just oil it up good or use some grease and put it in the groove where it goes and work the piston on in the housing??!
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