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About c1456

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/25/1975

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  • Location
    Tupelo, MS
  • Interests
    International tractors: 856, 706, 450lp, Super Mlp, 140
    John Deere: G

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  1. Some may have had a ruff life out of the gate, but not all. There were lots of farms here in the area that were 500 to 2000 acre family farms. On those operations mostly family members were operating and they were taken care of. Went out at lunch and made a few pics and got a little better shot of the location as of today. One of those 4166's maybe hard to find but it's in that thicket of bushes.
  2. Cabs around here not were not very prominent until the 86 series. And even then still a good many rops 86's here back in the day.
  3. Neat thing about this picture is I'm actually sitting next street over from where this was as I'm working in Aberdeen, MS today where this photo was taken. Unfortunately this is what that lot looks like now. This whole area was/is a very large row crop area and back in the day it was a hot bed for international equipment and dealers. Don't know if anyone has noticed, and of course this is a southern thing, but see the goodyear rice and canes on the 1468??? There are actually 2 of those 4166's sitting not 3 miles from this spot on one particular farm and it has been long time since either have been used, growing up in the bushes in other words. Very likely that the 4166 in this pic is one of those tractors.
  4. c1456

    450d brakes

    I'm not 100 percent sure but probably gonna have to take the brake housing off and take a look and see what's going on. You could do that and take the brake hardware off the tractor and see if rear wheel will move. Take the bolts out of the brake housing and then take the rod loose from the brake pedal and it all should come off fairly easy. Pick up an I and T shop manual and that will give you more detail about some of all this. I've got a 450LP and had to do some brake work. Once you get a look at it and get some more info here and from a good manual I think you will see it's not very complicated set up. Welcome aboard. Folks here always love pictures by the way.
  5. Thanks for posting. I found my crew in that first video in 2 different places. Wouldn't mind at all being back there right now.
  6. Just wanted to do a quick followup. Seems like over the years lots of questions get posted and lots of information provided and sometime we never see the outcome. I'm trying not to be that person. Got the new seal kit in the brake piston housing and new piston installed. All went back together very well. Right brake now operates smooth and no leaks anywhere. We did change the hydraulic fluid before cranking it back up. Now the plugs under the rear end were a little challenge to get out but nothing the blue wrench didn't help. Thanks again for all the information.
  7. Got the big o'ring in the housing tonight. I'm gonna start back together with all this over the weekend. One more question.....Do you guys put the brake piston back in the housing before or after you put the housing back on the tractor? I'm thinking that by installing the piston in the housing AFTER the housing is back in place on the tractor it will let you have a chance to make sure nothing funny happened with the pinion shaft seal. Sure appreciate the info so far. The following post has also been really helpful as well
  8. Kit came in today with the new orings and seal for the brake piston and housing. I've read this somewhere before but seems like the oring that goes around the outer edge of the brake piston housing to seal off the outer edge of the piston is a touch too big. I'm assuming just oil it up good or use some grease and put it in the groove where it goes and work the piston on in the housing??!
  9. The engines will swap, but I believe cubic inch wise, the 400 was still the 264 cubic inch engine and the 450 is a 281. I think you will probably find that most 400's, due to overhauls over the years, probably have the upgrade kits which made them into 281 engines.
  10. I will double check that CDN 400. I actually had the pedal loose from the brake valve control rod to make sure that the spool was fully returning to it's stop one of the times I opened the bleeder. At that point I was still getting a small amount of flow from the bleeder valve. I could pull out on the spool with my hand and the flow would shoot up closer to the bottom of the platform and when I released it and pushed back on it to make sure it was bottomed out the flow reduced to a lesser amount. Got parts ordered just waiting on them to come in now. In the meantime I'm gonna get a seal driver lined up to put that pinion shaft seal back in the brake piston housing. Sure don't want to shade tree that installation.
  11. I've got a shop manual, seems like it's got a good section on setting the brake pedals. It's an I and T manual but seems like it's pretty good on most stuff.
  12. I already have the floor plate off our parts 856. Think I'm just gonna get the brake valve off that tractor and have it rebuilt and ready to stick on mine soon as I can get it off. I even unhooked the brake pedal to make sure the spool was retracted all the was back in. I'm guessing the reason it didn't keep it bound up before is because with those broken return springs, the piston couldn't really make contact with anything. Oh well, time we get finished with it this time around I think we will have covered everything. How complicated is it putting new orings in the brake valve?
  13. Well, replaced the brake discs today, reset the adjusters. Put it back together and right brake worked great....except it would not completely release. Tractor would still move but you could tell that side was dragging. I loosened the bleeder valve without applying any pressure to the pedal. There was a steady flow coming out, but not near as much as when you applied pressure to the pedal. I did check to make sure that the brake valve was returning to neutral position and it did seem like it was. I pulled the pin out of the brake pedal and tried to push back in on the rod coming out of the brake valve and it was bottomed out. So, pulled it back apart, this time I went ahead and took the brake piston and housing off the tractor and kept all the shims in place. Ordered a kit tonight, which I should have done as suggested above to start with. Anyway, will install the new orings and seal and new piston and reassemble and go from there. Just a note, when I first took just the brake drum off, what I found was broken springs, the outer pad was worn, but the inner pad didn't have much wear on it. However, on the inner pad, the rings that are spot welded on each side of the disc had come loose. Before taking this apart, if you pushed on down on the pedal, it would try to grab, but it wouldn't hardly stop it just by letting it roll down a slight grade. Also, at this point, nothing would really come out of the bleeder valve when opened unless you applied the brake, maybe just a little dribble.
  14. Right brake on my 856 seems to be in need of servicing. I bled it first to make sure that was not the problem as it has not been used much over the last few years prior to us getting it. Everything seems ok with hydraulic flow. You can tell it's activating but you really have to push the pedal on down. You can also tell they are making contact but just not enuff to lock up the wheel. No leaks anywhere so I don't suspect any oring problems at this time. So I'm figuring brake discs are worn down or maybe adjuster screw tabs are broken off, so I'm gonna take the drum off and check everything out this afternoon. Left brake works just like it is supposed to. Tractor is a fender tractor. We did this on one we had years ago that had a 2 post canopy on it and we had to loosen the rop mounts and suspend it and get it out of the way. On a fender only tractor, am I gonna have to loosen the fender from the operators platform and loosen mount around the axle housing and slide it out of the way??? Looks like it maybe enuff room to clear but be nice to know before hand. TIA
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