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Everything posted by Rawleigh99

  1. The problem using AR for a welding table like this is that it is very hard to drill.
  2. Evaporust is another good one I have used. The Navy uses it to clean their engine blocks for rebuild. Nontoxiic, it won't damage non-ferrous metals and it works! I get it through Harbor Freight, but it is available elsewhere. http://www.evapo-rust.com/
  3. Sugarmaker: Unfortunately it has been so long ago I cannot remember.
  4. I bought a small back mount gauge off of Ebay for mine. It didn't have the colored bands on it but it worked fine.
  5. I got my gun head from NAPA, right out of their catalog within the last 6 years.
  6. The NAPA filter # is the last 4 #'s of the Wix filter. Wix makes the NAPA filters. Use the Wix filter lookup website. You may have to look under dozer, loader or the engine # to find all of them. It is a very useful site. http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Applications.aspx?Section=1
  7. How about a heavy duty trailer jack on each leg for rollers?
  8. Start hosing those adjusters with Kroil or something similar right now and repeat often, so that they will have a good soak before springtime. A 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works pretty good too.
  9. Binder books has the manuals you need.
  10. Some would not hold up to reverse pressure as the stiffness in the design is from the outside in. I guess it depends on the filter design.
  11. Tanker: You can make your own gaskets. Buy sheet material and use the round end of a ball peen hammer to tap along the edges to make an outline. Depending on how sharp the edges of the gasketed surface are, you may get an impression or a cut from the hammer. Anyway, finish the cut as necessary with a knife or scissors. I have heard of heavy tap paper being used as a gasket for radiators. Another option depending on how tight the parts fit is Locktite 515 or the Permatex equivalent anaerobic gasket maker..They will bridge 0.50" with the use of the appropriate primer spray. I know John D
  12. You need to hook up with John over in the UK. He looks like he does good restorations too.
  13. Weld a piece of large cable to the punch for the guy holding it to use as a handle. It will prevent a crushed hand and will take some of the shock out of holding it.
  14. See post #5 for a picture of a "Z" master link. Usually they were on much later model crawlers or on later model replacement chains. http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/95454-help-with-td-15c/ As stated above older undercarriages usually had a drive out master link.
  15. Baby has got new shoes!! Nice work. Glad you are getting to enjoy it for a change.
  16. What is the distance between the insides of the channel it rides on? Sorry for the 20 questions, but your work has gotten me excited abut completing my project. My holdup is the unavailability of front rollers. I have new bottom rollers, sprockets and chains.
  17. What holds the D3 idlers down. Can you show a close up from the front? They may well work on my 500c. The diameters are within 1/2 inch (Mine is slightly larger in diameter.). I cannot see that small difference mattering much.
  18. Now that is cool! Can you give me the dimensions of the D3 idler? Major/minor, width and flange width. I am looking for options on a replacement for 500c idlers. A D2 size may be most appropriate, but I need the info to decide.
  19. Thanks for posting pictures and descriptions of your work. I think that the undercarriage conversion is especially interesting since parts are getting hard to come by and that is a way to keep the old Internationals running. Please post more pictures, etc.
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