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Rawleigh99

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Posts posted by Rawleigh99

  1. Is this remote mounted or tiller steer.  Electric or pull start?  I assume from "all of the controls came in a box" that it is remote mounted.  Most have the dead man kill switch built into either the ignition switch bezel or the throttle/gearshift.  The ignition key switch should turn it off.  If not, trace the wiring.  If tiller steered it should be right on the front of the cowl.

  2. The 500c&e have the final drive pinions driven by the clutch.  The clutch is driven on the inboard side by a splined shaft that goes through the rear end.  The splined shaft through the rear rend has a nipple on the end that fits into a bushed hole on the end of the bull pinion.  They support each other and the clutch, but don't directly drive each other.

    It sounds to me like you lost the teeth off of the fiber disks.  General Gear has them available.  They also have excerpts from the manuals relating to the clutches you can download.  Look at the bottom of the page for the manual selections.

    https://www.tpaktopc.net/ih500strcltch.htm

    It may be easier for you to take out the seat to get to the tank bolts rather than remove the winch.  They are through standoffs on the bottom of the tank and go through the cover to the rear end.  On my 500c the steering levers can be unbolted.  If you cannot get the tank out through the operator area you my have to remove the ROPS.

    NOTE:  When you remove the bull pinion be very careful not to drop the outer or inner thrust bearings or thrust washers into the final drive!!!!

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  3. AS I said mine is 1600 psi and has tackled everything I have thrown at it including bulldozers (I accidently turned it up too high on that  and removed the latest layer of paint from that).  Mine is 120 volt, 20 amp.  230 might limit where you can use it.

    I don't even use any soap with it.  it doesn't need it.  The grease just melts off!  One thing to watch is that any bare metal is completely open to corrosion after you go over it with the hot water.  You probably should spray it with some rust preventative afterwards.  Working on clean equipment is a joy though!

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  4. Sandhiller:  I have the older version of that very washer.  It is only 1600 psi though.  You don't need a lot of PSI if you have heat.  It will blow pure steam if you turn it all the way up!   You have to be careful not to remove decals and even paint inadvertently. I bought it used from a man who used it commercially to clean warehouse floors.  I don't know haw many hundreds of thousands of gallons it has had through it.  It has a CAT pump.  Most of the parts of the heater are standard burner parts so you can you can get parts at your HVAC dealer.  10 years or more ago I ran biodiesel through it and that rotted the rubber grommets that the hoses went through and caused a leak.  Purely my fault.  I called Northern to buy a new tank and they sent me a new one free even though I told them I wasn't the original buyer and how it happened.  Great customer service.  The main problem I have had with mine is not using it enough so that the mud daubers build mud nests in it.  I have had to remove them from the blower fan before.  Overall i can recommend it, with the caveat that mine is probably 20 years old and they may have changed them some.  I wish everything I bought was s good as that has been.

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  5. 19 hours ago, tinnerjohn said:

    My father was drafted in 1942 and given a medical discharge 6 months later. He told me numerous times of feelings of shame, even though he joined the American Legion and served in the honor guard for the burial of at least one KIA during the war, as well as other veterans. I think I can kind of understand, since I never served, fortunately being too young for Viet Nam. I hope 30 years on the VFD helped somewhat to pay my dues, but I still feel like a slacker sometimes!

    The aftermath of 9-11 reminded me of the anti German and Japanese feelings that arose overnight.

    John

    My Uncle on my Mother's side had a nervous breakdown while in England preparing for D-Day and was sent home.  I don't think he ever got over it.  I know the family never really spoke about it much.

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  6. 2 hours ago, bob_carr said:

    And because the Guard units usually have their numbers concentrated in a community, when they are deployed into combat the number of casualties can really devastate the community.  I recall the 138th Artillery Unit from Bardstown taking a significant hit after the 1968 Tet Offensive.  That resulted in Bardstown having the  highest per capita casualty rate of any community in the US.  I imagine the circumstances for units deployed in WWII would be similar.  I know they were part of many campaigns and assault landings.  One unit, the African-American 39th Infantry Regiment from the streets of Harlem was referred to as the "**** Fighters" and earned significant recognition from the French Army to which they were assigned.

    I noticed 39th Infantry Regiment nickname was tagged for profanity.  Think of the opposite of "Heaven"'.

    Look up the Bedford Boys from Virginia.  There is a large memorial to them in Bedford, VA.  Company A of the 116th Guard Regiment had a 90% casualty rate on Omaha Beach at Normandy.  Only 18 out of 230 not wounded or killed.  35 were from the Town of Bedford, and of those 24 were killed.  They suffered the greatest proportion of losses of any town in the United States according to what I read.

    https://citizen-soldiermagazine.com/the-bedford-boys/

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  7. This is why I tee in a small back mount mechanical gauge on all my equipment with electronic tell tales.  Heck, I even do it on my equipment with mechanical gauges so I can check it from the ground!

    And I agree with Dale.  Some form of prelube is required.  I use a modified 1 gallon garden sprayer plumbed into the oil pressure port to force oil in.  Redneck, but it works!

    That was one good thing on the 6.0.  No oil pressure and it didn't start or keep running.  I know some think that was it's only redeeming feature, but . . . !

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