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About IHC Man

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Southeast Nebraska
  • Interests
    All old tractors, but especially RED ones!

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  1. As small of a piece of babbit bearing material is missing I would not worry about it and just run it as is. These old engines are very forgiving!
  2. IHC Man


    Melling Sleeve has new sleeves. https://www.melling.com/contract-manufacturing/cylinder-sleeves/ part number CSL325F. I have some new old stock main bearings and rod bearings too I think. Cam bearings. https://www.agkits.com/International-RD372-RD406-RD450-RD501-Camshaft-Bearing-Set.aspx?recrawl&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI77eL4Lrf4QIVWgOzAB3UMAxkEAQYASABEgK8ofD_BwE#.XLt6ddhOm1s Piston pin bushings https://www.ebay.com/itm/RD372-RD406-RD450-RD501-IHC-NAVISTAR-PISTON-PIN-BUSHINGS-PB825-/312556117222?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0 NOS oil pump https://www
  3. Take a listen and judge for yourself! https://youtu.be/2Apw_yKwqdE
  4. I got the rebuilt engine set back in the chassis today, it looks a lot more like a tractor now!
  5. The F20 engine has a 3.75"x 5" bore and stroke, the F30 & W30 have the same engine which has a 4.25"x5" bore and stroke. The 10-20 has the same basic engine as the F30/W30, but with a few differences. The F20 uses the thermosiphon principle of circulating water through the cooling system, as does the 10-20, while the F30/W30 use a water pump. Since the 30 engine is bigger than the 20, almost nothing will interchange between them. They both use the same Zenith K5 carb, but with different size venturies and jets.
  6. Almost done! Just have to finish installing the clutch and then the engine can be installed.
  7. Good luck finding a good kerosene manifold, no one is making new ones and good used ones are scarce as hen's teeth! A 10-20 manifold will NOT fit on an F20.
  8. I used a 1314 self-aligning bearing in the front and I used a 1316 roller bearing in the rear simply because that is what I had on hand.
  9. Kevin, in years past I have kept an eye out on Ebay and bought up the original style "full complement" "max-fill" bearings when I could get them cheap, so now I have a few of each size that I have been using. Most of the ones I have gotten have been the "self-aligning" type. Like this: I used a 1316 roller bearing for the rear main on this F30 engine. The original numbers are 1314 & 1316 for the "max-fill" bearings. The standard duty numbers are 6314 & 6316. Nothing wrong with using the standard duty bearings, they won't wear out while doing what little work these old tractors do
  10. The new bearings I have used are not loose, when installed there is no play in them. Maybe the ones you used were poor quality?
  11. The engines I have rebuilt with new bearings have NO bearing noise, even at idle. 99 times out of 100 the old bearings are worn and loose and damaged by rust and corrosion and WILL howl, that is why I replace them.
  12. Yes, brand new main bearings! Anymore, when rebuilding these 2 ball bearing main engines, I put in new ball bearings.
  13. I am working on rebuilding the engine for my 1935 F30. Here it is when I brought it home, it is the one on the left. The engine had thrown a rod and ventilated the block, but I found a replacement 1935 block. The offending piston and rod had been driven all the way up until the piston was contacting the head. Over the intervening decades they had rusted together so bad I broke the head trying to get it off.... so had to use one off a parts tractor. Two of the pistons were beyond use they were so rust corroded. They were domed pistons and since I did not have 2
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