Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by DT361

  1. I'd try ^^^this^^^ - and - also; smack the trip-arm forward in case the spring can't quite get it there. You can grasp the trip arm and work it forwards/backwards, too.
  2. Can you keep it running (at an idle) by applying choke? If so, possibly an obstruction in the carburetor's idle circuit?
  3. A diesel - to me, that's a big plus over a gas as far as fuel economy and having fuel fouling issues. You don't say where you're located - a diesel can be difficult to near-impossible to start in really cold climates. Does it smoke or continuously "haze" once it's warmed up? Making any disturbing noises? Brakes/hydraulics/steering/3pt/PTO/gauges all functioning well? Any oil in the water or water in the oil? The $100 replacement seat is collapsed/flopped back - they're pretty junky; spring for a good one if you replace it. (the wrap-around backrest is the junk part; core metal is too thin) Appears to have the x56 shifter update; reduces originality, but increases usability (s'pose the whole back 1/2 could have been grafted to an x06 front) Looks like a single hydraulic remote - if all you're doing is mowing, that's pretty irrelevant. Looks like good rubber all around - Don't know how old you are, but might last you a "lifetime" of just mowing. There's rarely such thing as having "too much tractor" (other than "too tall") - I'd bet you're just not used to running it yet. Consider that you got this as a heirloom of sorts, AND you have zero dollars into it. If you sell it/trade it to get something smaller, I can almost guarantee you'll come out "money behind". I would think very carefully before selling it - once it's gone, it's gone! My $0.02
  4. Yes - but...you're off by 1 (no biggie): 1st one in '56 was xxx19, so LAST on in '55 was xxx18, so 29717 built in '55 and 1134 built in '56. I did not try to verify TD's numbers. Mark
  5. Don't suppose you found the piece that broke off? - so it could be brazed back on..? By the looks of it, it should still be around the bolt. Just the hold-down broke? - Bill hook and whatnot are OK? Odd that it broke there - I wouldn't think it would get a whole lot of pressure, but looks like a clean fresh break. Never worked on one, so I'm of little use.... 😐
  6. Whatever it was, it probably included scant-few oil changes! (..? maybe got its' 1st one in '71 when they had to drop the pan to find out what "that noise" was LOL)
  7. Well - somebody certainly got their money's worth out of them! Reverse 'em and run 'em again? LOL Still curious - what did that journal mic out at? Top one's the 0.020? Crank over-ground by about 4 Thou, and the 0.020 shell was the "fix"?
  8. Soft-center bales? Can't say I'm a fan of those ('cept when a hard-center refuses to roll starting a bale 🤬 )
  9. Using the bottom hole of the top-link? (If you have 2) During the winter, when I keep a round on the back for ballast, I put a 2" strap around it to the top-link tower. Not particularly convenient, but would maybe get you back in biz?
  10. The one picture I found on FleaBay show a small-ish dome. FWIW.
  11. Normal jump-to link seems to be working again. Probably don't need to use the work-around(s) anymore?
  12. Appears to be functioning as normal again. You can skip the work-around link now, I believe. Thanks @FarmallFan
  13. The only way I could even imagine the engine could be rotated (let alone run) is if someone reamed and pin-honed those two shells to size. ...and why in the world would anyone do that? - would be faster/easier/cheaper to buy a bearing pair.... Pic of the numbers on the back of those shells? Something definitely awry. Put a mic on that journal, too (not a caliper). Rod and cap seem to mesh correctly? (get a measure on that parent bore, too)
  14. Here's a cheater link work-around you can use until BJ and crew can apply a proper fix. Once you navigate to the page, you can just bookmark it so you don't have to come back to this thread. Mark Coffe Shop Access workaround
  15. 'bout $60 for just seals and gaskets (not from CIH, tho, I suppose); $60 more gets you steels and frictions, and $60 after that gets you brakes. Add another hundred and you can get a really nice version of the the return spring compression tool....but a couple bolts and nuts, some all thread, and a chunk of steel bar and you can make one. I'm sure you could do it in an "H" press, too - you really can't do it by hand.
  16. BTW - you can try clearing your cookies as it might be a specific browser issue, too.
  17. I'm sure BJ will look into it when he gets a chance. I fiddled with it a little - the encoding has gained a glitch in that the address/DNS seems to be looking for an additional argument. If you click on a Thread from the main menu (far right column) - it opens that thread. But if you click the Forum, the second "slash" in the address is triggering a fail. Backspace over the offending switch (slash), and voila` - one forum at your service 😁 As you were.....
  18. Suction seal is on the pick-up tube. Unbolt the tube from the pump body and pull it out. It's really just a visual inspection for damage...maybe a little "feel", too - so it's 'snug'. Other than that, it's pretty much about getting in a nice "intermediate" position on the tube/in the bore. Been a while, but I think it's a lip seal - if so, lips face away from PTO. Also - look for any cracks around the mount tang that could suck air, and be sure the suction strainer screen up inside the pickup tube is clean. Piston seals are about the last thing to come out. If you hold pressure once you get it, I'd guess it's not them?
  19. Main fuel needle 7 turns out if not already (wide open) Possibly a larger main jet? Possibly retard timing a few degrees? Seems these old engines were only 7 or so to 1 stock? Hard to believe just the dome would make it spark-knock on 91. 91 w/ 10% ethanol? Can you get 93/0? (BP always has it around here. Again edit: I've never had my hands on these stepped/domed pistons - I'm sure they could be design aggressively enough to make a really significant change to the stock CR....those heads are pretty deep, but I'm sure it could be "filled" 😐
  20. You'd need a clear contain probably 2-3 times as deep as the dome to the top ring-land and, again, graduated accordingly. Big enough in diameter for the piston to fit. Fill with a known volume of water, then submerge the piston top-down bringing the liquid to the lip of the top ring-land; note the volume/graduation. Subtract "empty" liquid volume from "submerged" liquid volume to arrive at pistons "dome volume". Yes, would be a "negative to the head CCs and the Bore/stroke CCs when calculating long-form. In that case, you would add the volume of the head gasket - typically a few CC's.
  21. How accurate are you trying to be? Do you know your actual bore and stroke? You could maybe try: Spark plug out - piston at TDC compression. Large, CC-graduated dosing syringe filled with known volume heavy weight oil (to reduce ring flow-by). Fill'er up and determine CCs used = CCs-Value #1. "Pi" (3.143) X (Bore radius (in cm) squared) X stroke (in cm) = CCs-Value#2. CC's Values 1 + 2 = CCs-Value#3. CCs=value#3 / CCs-value#1 = Compression ratio value:1 ? Edit - I'm not sure my final equation is quite right... 2nd edit: I think the equation is correct. Overall accuracy depends on how accurate your bore/stroke measures are to actual, and how close to "full" you can get with the liquid. Suck out as much of the oil as you possibly can when done "Final" edit? Geez I'm an idiot - forgot Pi in the equation. Probably moot based on the balance of the thread anyway....
  22. Odds are pretty good "No" as long as you take your time and are careful as you disassemble. If you were to tear one "a little", having everything super clean/oil-free, and using some "Ultra" black or grey silicone (that's just what I use) with the gasket, would probably have you good for another 50 years 😃 Now, if you tear the crap out of them, well..... Frankly, straight Ultra silicone would probably be fine for both, in my opinion.
  23. Back up a few posts - there are some pictures and text to hopefully help you. Remove, and try to look through, the FWD side cover (pictured) to attempt to determine if one or more of the three park-pawl mounting bolts might be missing. I don't know if you will actually be able to see over to there, or not - I've never tried. If you DO have to pull the cover; Once you've got the operator platform, hydraulic lines, shift and park-brake linkages, and (possibly) the 'right brake to left brake hydraulic tube' removed, block the park lever UP in the disengaged position. Clean the area around the cover and especially between the cover and the 3-point casting, so you don't get a bunch of crud falling down into your trans when you lift the cover off.
  24. I haven't driven a 1026, but I would presume it's the same as my 656? Range transmission; High-Neutral-Low. Has always seemed backward to me - High is "back" and Low is "forward". Neutral isn't in the "middle", but actually much closer to high than low.
  25. Crappy DuPont overhaul except where there's grease; whatever white was handy, and a garden tractor seat; needs uppers to start the day; wiring/alternator installation less than stellar; heavy checking on the tires and the steering wheel's falling apart.... Lots of reasons to be cautious, I would think. JMO M
  • Create New...