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About DT361

  • Birthday 03/23/1964

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    Galesville, Wisconsin

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  1. Your 706 might be different than my 1206 - I have two different lights (I recall reading something about a combined system?): Engine oil light is in the fuel/temp cluster, and MCV is a separate indicator down lower by my left knee. In any case, the senders "complete to ground", so with your key on & engine not running: Your test light goes from battery positive to sending unit terminal...and should light. Same configuration with engine running and oils pressured up, your test light should not.
  2. I'd try ^^^this^^^ - and - also; smack the trip-arm forward in case the spring can't quite get it there. You can grasp the trip arm and work it forwards/backwards, too.
  3. Can you keep it running (at an idle) by applying choke? If so, possibly an obstruction in the carburetor's idle circuit?
  4. A diesel - to me, that's a big plus over a gas as far as fuel economy and having fuel fouling issues. You don't say where you're located - a diesel can be difficult to near-impossible to start in really cold climates. Does it smoke or continuously "haze" once it's warmed up? Making any disturbing noises? Brakes/hydraulics/steering/3pt/PTO/gauges all functioning well? Any oil in the water or water in the oil? The $100 replacement seat is collapsed/flopped back - they're pretty junky; spring for a good one if you replace it. (the wrap-around backrest is the junk part; core metal is too thin) Appears to have the x56 shifter update; reduces originality, but increases usability (s'pose the whole back 1/2 could have been grafted to an x06 front) Looks like a single hydraulic remote - if all you're doing is mowing, that's pretty irrelevant. Looks like good rubber all around - Don't know how old you are, but might last you a "lifetime" of just mowing. There's rarely such thing as having "too much tractor" (other than "too tall") - I'd bet you're just not used to running it yet. Consider that you got this as a heirloom of sorts, AND you have zero dollars into it. If you sell it/trade it to get something smaller, I can almost guarantee you'll come out "money behind". I would think very carefully before selling it - once it's gone, it's gone! My $0.02
  5. Yes - but...you're off by 1 (no biggie): 1st one in '56 was xxx19, so LAST on in '55 was xxx18, so 29717 built in '55 and 1134 built in '56. I did not try to verify TD's numbers. Mark
  6. Don't suppose you found the piece that broke off? - so it could be brazed back on..? By the looks of it, it should still be around the bolt. Just the hold-down broke? - Bill hook and whatnot are OK? Odd that it broke there - I wouldn't think it would get a whole lot of pressure, but looks like a clean fresh break. Never worked on one, so I'm of little use.... 😐
  7. Whatever it was, it probably included scant-few oil changes! (..? maybe got its' 1st one in '71 when they had to drop the pan to find out what "that noise" was LOL)
  8. Well - somebody certainly got their money's worth out of them! Reverse 'em and run 'em again? LOL Still curious - what did that journal mic out at? Top one's the 0.020? Crank over-ground by about 4 Thou, and the 0.020 shell was the "fix"?
  9. Soft-center bales? Can't say I'm a fan of those ('cept when a hard-center refuses to roll starting a bale 🤬 )
  10. Using the bottom hole of the top-link? (If you have 2) During the winter, when I keep a round on the back for ballast, I put a 2" strap around it to the top-link tower. Not particularly convenient, but would maybe get you back in biz?
  11. The one picture I found on FleaBay show a small-ish dome. FWIW.
  12. Normal jump-to link seems to be working again. Probably don't need to use the work-around(s) anymore?
  13. Appears to be functioning as normal again. You can skip the work-around link now, I believe. Thanks @FarmallFan
  14. The only way I could even imagine the engine could be rotated (let alone run) is if someone reamed and pin-honed those two shells to size. ...and why in the world would anyone do that? - would be faster/easier/cheaper to buy a bearing pair.... Pic of the numbers on the back of those shells? Something definitely awry. Put a mic on that journal, too (not a caliper). Rod and cap seem to mesh correctly? (get a measure on that parent bore, too)
  15. Here's a cheater link work-around you can use until BJ and crew can apply a proper fix. Once you navigate to the page, you can just bookmark it so you don't have to come back to this thread. Mark Coffe Shop Access workaround
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